This is great! Now all I can see are my posts - which are the only ones worth reading anyway.
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Posted by 2126 on 23 August 2006 - 01:48 PM
Posted by Derek on 19 September 2014 - 09:47 AM
This is all Tony D’s fault:)
Hi everyone. Some of you know me from my DIY EFI manifold project
Well now I’m tackling a DOHC head.
I get a PM from Tony D in September of 2012 about the Goerz-Paeco DOHC L6 Head coming up for air.http://forums.hybrid...?&gopid=1020596
Which led to a brief discussion about what would be involved in producing a head. And that was the end of it... Or so you thought.
Tony and I started trading emails about the feasibility of producing it and what kind of heads we could use as a donor for the valve train. Tony suggested bringing Jeff P on board because of his work with cooling the L6 head. Tony and I kicked around RB and KA motors for a while and then Tony suggested checking out the Honda K20. Bingo. Removable cam towers, factory roller rockers and a plethora of aftermarket parts. I called one oh my clients that is big in the import drag market and procured an old K20 head. I did some quick measurements and decided that it was probably workable. And so the journey began.
The idea is to use the cam towers and valve train from a K20.
I grabbed a quick scan with my white light scanner of the exterior. It’s dirty because I’m only using it as a reference scan to design against.
I imported the scan into my solids program and then proceed to replace the mesh with solids.
Jeff provided me with a great CAD drawing of his head gasket to work from. I decided to take a module approach to model the head. I made a single cylinder complete and the copied and offset it for the other cylinders.
I then pulled the solids together to create a single model.
At this point I was at a standstill until I could figure out what to do about the timing chain.
Jeff and I had a long conversation about pros an cons of various designs. The preference would be a single chain so I ordered up a K20 set to see if it was workable. NOPE.
Lower timing gear is too small to bore out to fit the L6 crank. Back to the drawing board.
I decided to give the KA set a try. I decided the Altima set would be a good choice as it’s only a single row chain up top. With the roller rockers I don’t think you need a double row.
I did a rough mockup on a piece of wood mounting all the pieces.
Then I machined a chunk of plastic so I could actually mount it to the block.
You can see I’m trying to incorporate the KA guides and lower tensioner but that won’t happen without a new lower timing cover.
Here is the lower section with stock modified L6 components. The only tricky bit is I need to remove one link from the chain. I think this is a workable solution.
Now I could finish modeling the front and back of the head.
Next the front timing cover. The water outlet exits the head in the front and makes a 90 degree turn through the timing cover where the thermostat housing will mount.
Now the valve cover. The K20 cam towers kind of dictated the overall size but I was still able to get the styling I was looking for. I was trying to have the flavor of the S20. I’m still tweaking the design but so far I’m pretty happy. The “NISSAN” and “3000” will be machined in so they are kind of placeholders for now.
After talking with Jeff about his testing on coolant flow I decided to get the most out of the 3D sand printing process as I could. I designed a water jacket that would be pretty hard to duplicate traditionally. There is a lot of surface area so hopefully there will be large improvements in cooling.
Here is a nice shot of the intake and exhaust cores, water core, and upper tensioner. You can see where the cross drilling will go to supply oil to the head, tensioner and idler gear lube.
There will have to be additional oil supplied to the last three cam towers as the single feed in the front won’t cut it.
Here is a cross section of the head. The cut plane is through the center of one of the intake valves so the ports look a bit off. There is machine allowance on the bottom so the combustion chamber is a little larger than it will be after surfacing.
Well like I said in the original Goerz-Paeco post I think this is a very viable approach to producing DOHC head. Should make for an interesting conversation.
Oh and one more thing.
What good would a thread about casting a head be without.......
An actual casting.
We poured this Monday and I just got these pics from the foundry today. I haven't seen the head personally but we're pretty sure it is good enough to move forward with.
Still lots to do but you can't imagine how happy I am to get the first one right.
As long as things proceed as planned I will be selling these. There is still a lot to figure out. I have the foundry working up some pricing for me and I'll post that as soon as I can.
Thanks for looking
EDIT: I now have a blog about this head on my site. I'm going to continue to post here but the blog is a condensed version of what you see here. There is a FAQ on the left side bar that has a lot of data. If you are new to this build you may want to come up to speed there and then start following it here as there is a lot of great back and forth that isn't on the blog.
Posted by ThomaZ on 27 July 2006 - 11:38 AM
As recommended by members on this board I used an 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit). It fits the hole pattern in the firewall without trimming. I installed an AN4 fitting (like Summit RUS-66042-1) and a custom-made steel braided hose down to the stock GM plastic slave cylinder (SC).
The set up had several disadvantages. The connection to the plastic SC was fragile. I hade to hammer a bulge into the lower part of the fire wall to get sufficing clearance for the cutch arm.
It was so difficult to bleed. I didn't get it to work well. The clutch disengaged, but just barely.
The SC ended up very close to the down tub from the headers. I made an heat shield but it doubt it worked.
After just 1000 kilometers (625 miles) the SC quite and dumped all the fluid out around the pushrods. I was reluctant to just reinstall a new plastic SC so I started to investigate an alternative; and bellow is what I ended up with.
I used a SC with aluminum housing from Wilwood (WIL-260-1333 at Summit Racing). It is a pulling clutch SC so it needs a new mount and a modified clutch arm.
The stock clutch arm was shorted and an a hole drilled in it for the push rod
I fabricated a SC mount from 1/8" steel. I made some simple cardboard templates an the cut it out with a hack saw and bent it in a wise. It was then stick welded together. I made it to pick up on of the "ears" on the gearbox housing and two mounting bolts on the aft face of the gear box. It is a simple design and I hope the photos will aid if you wish to duplicate it.
The stock nipple on the Wilwood SC was replace with an other AN4 nipple and I had a new steel braided hose made. It is 800 mm (31.5") long and has 90 degree bend on both ends.
The rest of the photos shows the system installed. It works really well. It was simple to bleed and it disengages and engages distinctively. As can be seen from the photo it clears the firewall and the trans tunnel. It sits higher up in the trans tunnel an clears the exhaust tube with comfortable margin.
The disadvantages is that you must remove the bell housing from the engine to be able to remove and install the clutch arm and the clutch arm is hard as nails to drill in! Use a drill press, top quality drill bits, work slowly and use cutting fluid.
I have now put approx. 2000 km (1.250 miles) on it and it still works well, so I thought it would be something worthwhile sharing.
Posted by T-Bone028 on 05 October 2014 - 05:41 AM
If you search my posts, you should find an off the shelf parts list and how I set it up. Part came quickly and shipped the day after I sent paypal. Definitely recommend!
Posted by NewZed on 12 March 2013 - 01:51 PM
Recent posters are ignoring or unaware of the history of Ben's Z's project. If you don't consider his other threads it does seem like Tony D just walked in to the party and started acting like an ass. But Ben's Z's project is a series of errors and ignored advice. He seems more focused on venting on the forum than actually doing things right. It's almost like he goes out in to the garage to screw something up so that he can come here and bitch about the injustice of the world.
You do have to give him credit though, for continuously coming back to expose his lack of skills, and for more of the resulting verbal abuse. It's certainly entertaining and I'm looking forward to future threads about the blown engine/turbo/transmission or whatever, once he gets it running, in the the next year or two.
Posted by frank280zx on 26 February 2010 - 07:22 AM
And yet, the rear end in the ZX was still a mixed-bag 810 transplant that ANY hint/hope of making it less pedestrian than it's sedan roots would have been welcome. What important is the turbo 280ZX's legacy. That legacy is being a stellar parts car for 1st gen cars that don't need to deal with the cheaper and schizophrenic semi-trailing arms at all.
Want me to take you up for a roadrace challenge .. and see the cheaper and schizophrenic semi-trailing arms blow your doors of ? I think the 280zx did ok racing .. and lets not forget the BMW m3 ... also one with the cheaper and schizophrenic semi-trailing arms.
(At least if a bear attackts it i can fix it with duct tape)
Posted by nicamarvin on 02 November 2009 - 01:46 PM
Well I feel the crank would have to be re-drilled since the stock oiling hole would pretty much fall directly between the two rods and most 4 cylinder engines have a rod width roundabouts 1inch while the stock chev rods are .940 width as well. If you managed to wedge two custom rods on there the width would probably be well below .700 width which is starting to get skinny.
well, we all know there needs to be custom thing to do, but to me this is the closest thing to a Flat plane I could ever get, plus I don't intend to reve this thing past 6K I just want that cool sound too
Posted by Barrel_Ball on 12 July 2016 - 04:56 PM
Figured I would post this here, as it pertains exclusively to the first generation Z car. I've seen power window kits that involve a remotely mounted motor, a cable/chain drive of sorts, to a little splined tube that slips over the stock window crank spindle.
Problem is, while it may be good enough for many, I find that the fact that there's a protruding black, plastic cap on the door panel where the crank once was, is kind of cheap-looking in my opinion.
So I decided, while my doors were apart for bodywork and other repairs/upgrades, to try a power window conversion of my own. Keep in mind, though, that the doors are currently (as of typing this) not on the car, and the switches are not wired into the car, yet (we're re-wiring the car at this time, in fact). So let's go through this with the pictures I remembered to take during the conversion:
The motors from the front doors of an '05 Subaru Impreza. The gear tooth pitch is the same as the original spindles, with the two minor details to keep in mind being: The Datsun spindle has 7 teeth, while the Subaru motor has 8 teeth, and the pilot hole needs to be drilled out a little. I don't remember what drill size, exactly. Just make sure it's snug, but still moves smoothly
I started by drilling out the three riveted points holding the original spindle in place, removing it. I then determined where the motor had to sit, marked off the area it needed to go, and cut into the bracket mounting flange, so that i could flatten it out around the spindle area.
You can see the two holes I had to drill out for the motor to mount. Note the screws.
I layed out where everything needed to go on the door to check for any interference points. All clear, so far.
Demonstration video of preliminary test here.
I bolted the un-finished assembly in place to trace where I would have to cut metal out of the door, as the motor will have to sit through about 1/8" - 1/4".
One session with the zip-wheel later...
Just pokes through...
Assembled everything on the door for clearance/bind testing. All good.
Assembled operation test video here. Still needed to final-adjust rails, hence why it wasn't put up all the way.
The finished brackets with motors mounted.. I had to trim some of the motor flange back on the regulator, and weld in some trimmed 1/2" x 1/2" angle steel channel on either side to brace the regulator, as well as provide a new mounting flange for the door, complete with new captive nuts.
Hard to see here, but I welded in a section of sheet metal to fill in part of the void where the original regulator came through, to add structure back into the doors.
Doors are now assembled, adjusted, and sitting in a shed until they're needed for the car's final assembly
Not pictured are a pair of rear door window switches from a mid-90's Honda Accord. They are 5-wire, which can handle the current these motors will push. Plans are to use a 20A stud-type circuit breaker per door, may use 2 if deemed necessary. The switches will be mounted in the change pocket of the center console.
Not my best install writeup, but I hope this helps anyone who would want to do this type of conversion in the future.
Posted by RebekahsZ on 09 May 2016 - 08:18 PM
For the guys who know him better: What would you think of memorializing johnc with an annual scholarship for the cost of ZCON track day tuition, starting in 2017? It could be called "The Hybridz John Coffey Memorial ZCON Scholarship." I could be in charge of collecting the money and starting a thread each year to take nominations and votes.
Posted by Tony D on 29 October 2015 - 10:18 PM
Yes, the exhaust port 'could' use some work, the as-cast cleaned intake is flowing within 10cfm of a 4 hour port job on an OS Giken head.
Those numbers outflow most max ported SOHC heads by a good margin. Most you will likely get is around 230cfm intake, possibly more.
The important thing is that the barrel tested was 89mm, and not something like 4", which would skew the low-lift numbers artificially low, and boost top end numbers by potentially 40-50cfm!
Overall, this is very good port performance and about as big as you really can go on the intake side with a 2.8 or 3.0 Liter engine. The peak power will be up there...in terms of gross output, and rpms!
You won't get these numbers out of a non-crossflow head.
And I don't see any reason to get uncivil since the 28", bore size, clayed radius, exhaust stub stuff is all stated for replication.
More importantly, it gives a baseline for improvements from any porting done.
I would only add that it would have been nice to quantify intake manifold loss, and what the intake port flowed with the intended ITB on it at WOT.
On Peter's OSG project, that added up.
One thing to note for all the benchracers out there, that turbo stock intake flows 190 CFM thereabouts. So for a P90 that's a darned good match of components! The engineers DO know what they are doing sometimes. Thinking you will change the world swapping from one component to another is really misguided, it's a system--if you don't look at ALL the components, changing one will likely just screw up a well-balanced setup right from the factory!
Posted by rossman on 31 March 2013 - 04:06 AM
I just purchased this car from a my step father. It's a 2005 325i with only 33K on the clock. It's a base model automatic. I think the only option it has is a electric heated passenger seat. The car isn't fast but its solid, handles well and the inline 6 is silky smooth. I'm loving it!