This is great! Now all I can see are my posts - which are the only ones worth reading anyway.
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Posted by 2126 on 23 August 2006 - 01:48 PM
Posted by Derek on 19 September 2014 - 09:47 AM
This is all Tony D’s fault:)
Hi everyone. Some of you know me from my DIY EFI manifold project
Well now I’m tackling a DOHC head.
I get a PM from Tony D in September of 2012 about the Goerz-Paeco DOHC L6 Head coming up for air.http://forums.hybrid...?&gopid=1020596
Which led to a brief discussion about what would be involved in producing a head. And that was the end of it... Or so you thought.
Tony and I started trading emails about the feasibility of producing it and what kind of heads we could use as a donor for the valve train. Tony suggested bringing Jeff P on board because of his work with cooling the L6 head. Tony and I kicked around RB and KA motors for a while and then Tony suggested checking out the Honda K20. Bingo. Removable cam towers, factory roller rockers and a plethora of aftermarket parts. I called one oh my clients that is big in the import drag market and procured an old K20 head. I did some quick measurements and decided that it was probably workable. And so the journey began.
The idea is to use the cam towers and valve train from a K20.
I grabbed a quick scan with my white light scanner of the exterior. It’s dirty because I’m only using it as a reference scan to design against.
I imported the scan into my solids program and then proceed to replace the mesh with solids.
Jeff provided me with a great CAD drawing of his head gasket to work from. I decided to take a module approach to model the head. I made a single cylinder complete and the copied and offset it for the other cylinders.
I then pulled the solids together to create a single model.
At this point I was at a standstill until I could figure out what to do about the timing chain.
Jeff and I had a long conversation about pros an cons of various designs. The preference would be a single chain so I ordered up a K20 set to see if it was workable. NOPE.
Lower timing gear is too small to bore out to fit the L6 crank. Back to the drawing board.
I decided to give the KA set a try. I decided the Altima set would be a good choice as it’s only a single row chain up top. With the roller rockers I don’t think you need a double row.
I did a rough mockup on a piece of wood mounting all the pieces.
Then I machined a chunk of plastic so I could actually mount it to the block.
You can see I’m trying to incorporate the KA guides and lower tensioner but that won’t happen without a new lower timing cover.
Here is the lower section with stock modified L6 components. The only tricky bit is I need to remove one link from the chain. I think this is a workable solution.
Now I could finish modeling the front and back of the head.
Next the front timing cover. The water outlet exits the head in the front and makes a 90 degree turn through the timing cover where the thermostat housing will mount.
Now the valve cover. The K20 cam towers kind of dictated the overall size but I was still able to get the styling I was looking for. I was trying to have the flavor of the S20. I’m still tweaking the design but so far I’m pretty happy. The “NISSAN” and “3000” will be machined in so they are kind of placeholders for now.
After talking with Jeff about his testing on coolant flow I decided to get the most out of the 3D sand printing process as I could. I designed a water jacket that would be pretty hard to duplicate traditionally. There is a lot of surface area so hopefully there will be large improvements in cooling.
Here is a nice shot of the intake and exhaust cores, water core, and upper tensioner. You can see where the cross drilling will go to supply oil to the head, tensioner and idler gear lube.
There will have to be additional oil supplied to the last three cam towers as the single feed in the front won’t cut it.
Here is a cross section of the head. The cut plane is through the center of one of the intake valves so the ports look a bit off. There is machine allowance on the bottom so the combustion chamber is a little larger than it will be after surfacing.
Well like I said in the original Goerz-Paeco post I think this is a very viable approach to producing DOHC head. Should make for an interesting conversation.
Oh and one more thing.
What good would a thread about casting a head be without.......
An actual casting.
We poured this Monday and I just got these pics from the foundry today. I haven't seen the head personally but we're pretty sure it is good enough to move forward with.
Still lots to do but you can't imagine how happy I am to get the first one right.
As long as things proceed as planned I will be selling these. There is still a lot to figure out. I have the foundry working up some pricing for me and I'll post that as soon as I can.
Thanks for looking
EDIT: I now have a blog about this head on my site. I'm going to continue to post here but the blog is a condensed version of what you see here. There is a FAQ on the left side bar that has a lot of data. If you are new to this build you may want to come up to speed there and then start following it here as there is a lot of great back and forth that isn't on the blog.
Posted by ThomaZ on 27 July 2006 - 11:38 AM
As recommended by members on this board I used an 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit). It fits the hole pattern in the firewall without trimming. I installed an AN4 fitting (like Summit RUS-66042-1) and a custom-made steel braided hose down to the stock GM plastic slave cylinder (SC).
The set up had several disadvantages. The connection to the plastic SC was fragile. I hade to hammer a bulge into the lower part of the fire wall to get sufficing clearance for the cutch arm.
It was so difficult to bleed. I didn't get it to work well. The clutch disengaged, but just barely.
The SC ended up very close to the down tub from the headers. I made an heat shield but it doubt it worked.
After just 1000 kilometers (625 miles) the SC quite and dumped all the fluid out around the pushrods. I was reluctant to just reinstall a new plastic SC so I started to investigate an alternative; and bellow is what I ended up with.
I used a SC with aluminum housing from Wilwood (WIL-260-1333 at Summit Racing). It is a pulling clutch SC so it needs a new mount and a modified clutch arm.
The stock clutch arm was shorted and an a hole drilled in it for the push rod
I fabricated a SC mount from 1/8" steel. I made some simple cardboard templates an the cut it out with a hack saw and bent it in a wise. It was then stick welded together. I made it to pick up on of the "ears" on the gearbox housing and two mounting bolts on the aft face of the gear box. It is a simple design and I hope the photos will aid if you wish to duplicate it.
The stock nipple on the Wilwood SC was replace with an other AN4 nipple and I had a new steel braided hose made. It is 800 mm (31.5") long and has 90 degree bend on both ends.
The rest of the photos shows the system installed. It works really well. It was simple to bleed and it disengages and engages distinctively. As can be seen from the photo it clears the firewall and the trans tunnel. It sits higher up in the trans tunnel an clears the exhaust tube with comfortable margin.
The disadvantages is that you must remove the bell housing from the engine to be able to remove and install the clutch arm and the clutch arm is hard as nails to drill in! Use a drill press, top quality drill bits, work slowly and use cutting fluid.
I have now put approx. 2000 km (1.250 miles) on it and it still works well, so I thought it would be something worthwhile sharing.
Posted by T-Bone028 on 05 October 2014 - 05:41 AM
If you search my posts, you should find an off the shelf parts list and how I set it up. Part came quickly and shipped the day after I sent paypal. Definitely recommend!
Posted by NewZed on 12 March 2013 - 01:51 PM
Recent posters are ignoring or unaware of the history of Ben's Z's project. If you don't consider his other threads it does seem like Tony D just walked in to the party and started acting like an ass. But Ben's Z's project is a series of errors and ignored advice. He seems more focused on venting on the forum than actually doing things right. It's almost like he goes out in to the garage to screw something up so that he can come here and bitch about the injustice of the world.
You do have to give him credit though, for continuously coming back to expose his lack of skills, and for more of the resulting verbal abuse. It's certainly entertaining and I'm looking forward to future threads about the blown engine/turbo/transmission or whatever, once he gets it running, in the the next year or two.
Posted by Booztd 3 on 22 April 2010 - 01:30 AM
This is how you properly disassemble an RB26/RB25/Z32 CAS
The purpose of the disassembly was to install the 24-tooth AEM Disc
This particular write-up will show pictures of a Z32 CAS. The only difference I noticed in taking both RB26 Mitsu and Z32 Mitsu CAS was the 3 screws for the main cover.
Pictured below, begin by removing the 3 screws for the cover. On the Z32, it uses tamper proof screws, the RB just uses regular screws. I used my smallest chisel punch and tapped them until they came loose, and then finished removing them with a large flathead
Once the screws are out, lightly tap the shaft of the CAS, and it will separate from the cover
Next, the dowel pin holding the engagement shaft on to the CAS assembly
I placed the CAS in a small vice where it could not move 'downwards' and used an air hammer with a grinded off punch
You can see I got the dowel to move. I used a small punch to remove it the rest of the way. You may have problems getting the pin out, on the RB CAS, I had to take a die grinder with a cut-off wheel and grind off the flat spot that was holding the dowel in place
Main cover, engagement shaft, dowel pin
Now, the front bearing needs to be removed. I accomplished this by using a small 7mm socket to fit over the 1/2 moon piece that engages the camshaft 1/2 moon. (the CAS below had the indexing key broke off, so i was able to just set the puller right on the intermediate shaft) I then used a small 3 jaw puller purchased from harbor freight for just a few dollars. I had to grind the bottoms off of the jaws so it would fit all the way under the bearing
Here you can see the bearing is removed, next you want to remove the 2 gold screws that hold the intermediate shaft to the main shaft
After removing the 2 small screws, you need to press the main shaft out of the lower bearing. Begin by popping off the rubber Mitsu cover. I used a smaller socket to fit into the bearing and onto the main shaft. Again, I used the small puller to press out the main shaft. I used the small punch to hold the shaft from spinning while I turned the puller
I apologize for the following blurry pic, but after the intermediate shaft is removed, the wheel will come right out. Its held in place by being pressed in between the main shaft and intermediate shaft.
Now install the AEM 24 tooth disc. You can see the disc below. You DO NOT need to remove the actual black part of the sensor. I only did this for educational purposes
Once the disc is in, place the intermediate shaft back onto the main shaft and secure the 2 small gold screws. At this point the main shaft needs to be pressed back into the lower bearing. I accomplished this by placing the front bearing back over the intermediate shaft, and then using a socket, and a vice as a press. Press the bearing on until it seats, and it will continue to press the main shaft into the lower bearing.
After that, you need to install the engagement shaft and the dowel pin. Once again I used the bench vise
Now install main cover and 3 securing screws, as well as the rubber dust cover on the back side. The CAS should spin freely. If not, you dont have the shafts and bearings seated properly.
I had a used leftover Z32 harness that I cut the connector off of, and depinned the RB CAS connector, and then pinned it back into the Z32 connector. Installed on the car, and here is the result
Dont forget to make the necessary software changes that AEM requires
The car started right up, and after getting some seat time, the typical 'hiccup' stock CAS sensors have is now gone. The car accels significantly smoother, and I went out and did some 25psi pulls and didnt have a single issue. Hopefully hitting the dyno up friday!
Posted by Tony D on 22 May 2009 - 11:12 PM
Yeah i am aware of that
The low end midrange is what you pick up with sequential easily.
No i am not going to do the one temp sensor per cylinder as its to hard and expensive( though i could just egt it ).
Going for 6 wide band sensors would just kill me.
I just want the driveablity and the economy that comes from sequential.
If you're not willing to put the goodies on there, then the 'benefit' for sequential injection will hardly justify the costs involved just so you have bragging rights.
We have polytropic head control on our compressors, NOBODY uses it save for people with purchasing departments with geek engineers who cream over the 1% cost savings in electricity they get and somehow convince beancounters that the 3X cost of the system is peanuts when your electrical bill is $1,000,000 a month. The sensro package takes a standard controller from around a $20K retrofit cost, to closer to $65K, individual inlet and outlet pressure sensors, temperature monitors into and out of each stage.... For that they may see a 1% better performance against the surge line when turned down.
For a customer running off the surge line, the costs over the $20K system would never be noticed, nor costs recovered.
Same with Sequential Injection. Look at what your Motec is going to cost you for even a 'rudimentary' sequential setup.
Then realize that economy might (and that's an iffy 'might') net you 1-2% better economy. Meaning you get what 10.2L/100Km versus 10L/100Km? For an extra $2000, you can buy a lot of petrol!
If you're basing it on 'better drivability' how do you actually quantify that? If you are unwilling to spend the $$$ for the full sequential package, how will you find the $$$ for the 50 or so hours of rolling road time to flatten out those nits in the road which make the car buck slightly when you decelerate or the hesitant millisecond long snif you get on transition when you flatfoot the car around a right hander uphill whilst looking to the east and winking with one eye? The things don't tune themselves (well, Autronic aside...) but really IMO the Autronic with the OEM style long and short term fuel trim will perform more useful functions set up as a batch-fire unit than ANY other Sequential system that you have to manually chart and configure.
The OEM's have nice stable long and short term fuel tuning loops. If I were to buy a high-dollar unit (Standalone ECU) to replace my Megasquirt, I would look FIRST for that kind of automatic fuel trimming, than for 'sequential injection'...
The usability of the box is determined by it's user friendliness. Learning to tune simple batch fire can be a load for many people. Add phasing of the injectors, individual fuel trim, and other items that can be engineered to insignificance early on in the project...and it comes down to which is the easiest to set up and do what I want it to do.
And figuring out what you want it to do has to do more with concrete numbers and performance figures than marketing buzzwords and phrases subject to purely subjective analysis.
Manufacturers went to sequential as a result of EMISSIONS REQUIREMENTS and nothing more. Until recently the processor speeds were not able to be clocked to control sequential over basic idle and low speed operations. Now that processor speed and processor cost has come down it makes fully sequential systems on OEM setups possible, and again with tightening requirements for governmental compliance REQUIRING individual cylinder fuel control and diagnostic capabilities it's not their CHOICE that they are using fully sequential.
Where emissions are not a concern, you will still find simple, durable, slow clock speed batch fired systems are the system of choice because they operate with a couple of durable sensors and are rock-solid reliable now that there is over 40 years+ of history ironing the bugs out of them.
Lot of talk about 100K mile warranties and all from the marketing department, and it really makes you think the car companies are competing to sell you a better product... but in the USA at least, it's all government mandated emissions compliance that has driven a 100K mile durability certification process. Marketing just found a way to sell you something that they had to put into the cars ANYWAY.
Just like Sequential Injection!
Think of it like this: Even in F1, sequential injection is nothing more than digital electronics controlling an analog device, the fuel injector. It's not open or closed. There is a non-linear distribution of fuel from that injector. And at higher rpms it can be pretty messy. No matter what you do you still have analog fuel delivery. Until injection technology improves the performance of the injectors, the best you will hope for is a compromise between 'least messy' alternatives.
Posted by milesz on 06 March 2008 - 03:24 PM
Posted by RETRO-SPEC on 25 September 2016 - 01:19 AM
Hello everyone we are glad to show your our line replacement interior parts for the early z
we currently are selling dashes and consoles for the 280z, we are making mold for the 240z version and will be
available pretty soon, looking for interest on door panels so let us know!!
Posted by Ivan280zt on 24 January 2016 - 03:51 PM
Posted by bradyzq on 23 March 2015 - 05:34 AM
I thought it was time to shout out a big "Thank you!" to the hybridz community for keeping the Z flame burning in me for the past (not so) few years since I last drove my Z.
It seems that other priorities in life have jumped the Z and moved to the front of the line. This isn't permanent, but in the meantime, it sure helps to read all these threads and occasionally be able to help out and/or learn something along the way.
Posted by Nigel on 25 June 2013 - 02:04 PM
There's a huge difference between the non-vented 4x4 calipers and the vented V6 4-Runner calipers. The non-vented caliper piston surface area is not that much bigger than stock 240Z calipers. It's only about a 3% increase. The V6 4-Runner calipers have an almost 27% increase in piston surface area! That results in a huge difference in brake torque. So, saying your "Toyota" front brake and 240SX rear brake combo is balanced is meaningless without specifying exactly which Toyota front calipers you have.
Keep in mind that stock 240SX front brakes are actually LESS "powerful" than stock Z front brakes. So, don't expect 240SX rear brakes to be suited to anything more than stock Z front brakes.
An engineered solution is doable. It's just a matter of gathering the appropriate data and doing the math, which is all available on-line. It's not voodoo magic, or guess work. By crunching the numbers, I can tell you that a V6 4-Runner/240SX brake combo has approximately a 74/26 front/rear bias, assuming equal pad coefficient of friction and full line pressure to the rear brakes. Non-vented 4x4 caliper/240SX brake combo has approximately 70/30 front/rear bias.
To expand on Leon's answer about excessive front brake bias, you need an adequate combination of front AND rear brake torque to transfer load to the front wheels to increase their grip to take advantage of the additional brake torque that bigger front brakes can generate. Without the rear brakes contributing enough to that load transfer, the front brakes will easily overpower the friction between the tires and the road and the front wheels will lock prematurely. Consequently, longer braking distances! And don't be misled by those "Big" front brake kits you see advertised for newer cars into thinking that excessive front bias isn't an issue. Those big front brake kits don't actually generate any more brake torque than the stock front brakes. Even though the rotors are enormous, and the calipers may look huge, the calipers actually have tiny little pistons in them to keep the brake toque in-line with stock, so as not to throw off the factory brake bias.
Posted by big-phil on 14 February 2013 - 04:26 AM
People ask how much Money I've got in my car, I try to tell them it's not as much as you might think.
Here's why http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649
$373 is all I paid..... I watch E-bay, Craigslist like a HAWK!!! These go for close to, or just over $1000 all day long. I've wanted euro 240z lights for EVER!
I also picked up a series 1 Hatch for $40 local on Craigslist, vertical defrost lines, vents under glass, the real deal.
Now I'm thinking I'll paint the hatch, swap my euro 280z lights for these 240z's and look like a series 1
From the day I bought my car I kept in the back of my head that I'll still look for a 240z because that's what I "really want" Well that never happened.
Am I crazy for wanting to swap the dash? It'll probably never happen....