Jump to content

Most Liked Content

#1193911 HybridZ may be shutting down.

Posted by SuperDan on 2 days ago

Well, ok then :)

So, looks like we are in the black for a while now.


So I pledge to you fine folks:

Procure our new server today and update all or software licences.

Then I will start moving our site to it's new home, hopefully next week.

After the dust settles (a week or 2 later) I will upgrade the forum software to the new (supported) version. That will take care of the bugs we have now days like the donation email spamming.


This was quite uplifting for me to be honest, I really did think there was a lack of interest now days in HybridZ  but you guys definitely showed me the light!


Thank you for your support,



#1042129 "Ignore All Posts from This User" Button?

Posted by johnc on 18 February 2013 - 08:38 AM

This is great!  Now all I can see are my posts - which are the only ones worth reading anyway.  :icon47:

#418261 Where does the "Reputation" description come from?

Posted by 2126 on 23 August 2006 - 01:48 PM

Your not alone on this issue......I don't know how many times I've helped people out over the years on this forum with good information and I still have the "unknown quanity square" under my avatar! Makes no sence to me...but then again, it will not effect me in helping others out in the future. Maybe one of the administrators will allow me a green square????


#1120846 Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks

Posted by Derek on 19 September 2014 - 09:47 AM

This is all Tony D’s fault:)


Hi everyone. Some of you know me from my  DIY EFI manifold project



Well now I’m tackling a DOHC head.


 Some history:

I get a PM from Tony D in September of 2012 about the Goerz-Paeco DOHC L6 Head coming up for air.http://forums.hybrid...?&gopid=1020596

Which led to a brief discussion about what would be involved in producing a head. And that was the end of it... Or so you thought. 

Tony and I started trading emails about the feasibility  of producing it and what kind of heads we could use as a donor for the valve train. Tony suggested bringing Jeff P on board because of his work with cooling the L6 head. Tony and I kicked around RB and KA motors for a while and then Tony suggested checking out the Honda K20. Bingo. Removable cam towers, factory roller rockers and a plethora of aftermarket parts. I called one oh my clients that is big in the import drag market and  procured an old K20 head. I did some quick measurements and decided that it was probably workable. And so the journey began.


The idea is to use the cam towers and valve train from a K20.

I grabbed a quick scan with my white light scanner of the exterior. It’s dirty because I’m only using it as a reference scan to design against.


I imported the scan into my solids program and then proceed to replace the mesh with solids.


Jeff provided me with a great CAD drawing of his head gasket to work from. I decided to take a module approach to model the head. I made a single cylinder complete and the copied and offset it for the other cylinders.



I then pulled the solids together to create a single model.



At this point I was at a standstill until I could figure out what to do about the timing chain.


Jeff and I had a long conversation about pros an cons of various designs. The preference would be a single chain so I ordered up a K20 set to see if it was workable. NOPE.

Lower timing gear is too small to bore out to fit the L6 crank. Back to the drawing board.

I decided to give the KA set a try. I decided the Altima set would be a good choice as it’s only a single row chain up top. With the roller rockers I don’t think you need a double row.


I did a rough mockup on a piece of wood mounting all the pieces. 


Then I machined a chunk of plastic so I could actually mount it to the block.

You can see I’m trying to incorporate the KA guides and lower tensioner but that won’t happen without a new lower timing cover.



Here is the lower section with stock modified L6  components. The only tricky bit is I need to remove one link from the chain. I think this is a workable solution.



Now I could finish modeling the front and back of the head.



Next the front timing cover. The water outlet exits the head in the front and makes a 90 degree turn through the timing cover where the thermostat housing will mount.


Now the valve cover. The K20 cam towers kind of dictated the overall size but I was still able to get the styling I was looking for. I was trying to have the flavor of the S20. I’m still tweaking the design but so far I’m pretty happy. The “NISSAN” and “3000”  will be machined in so they are kind of placeholders for now.




After talking with Jeff about his testing on coolant flow I decided to get the most out of the 3D sand printing process as I could. I designed a water jacket that would be pretty hard to duplicate traditionally. There is a lot of surface area so hopefully there will be large improvements in cooling.


Here is a nice shot of the intake and exhaust cores, water core, and upper tensioner. You can see where the cross drilling will go to supply oil to the head, tensioner and idler gear lube.

There will have to be additional oil supplied to the last three cam towers as the single feed in the front won’t cut it. 


Here is a cross section of the head. The cut plane is through the center of one of the intake valves so the ports look a bit off. There is machine allowance on the bottom so the combustion chamber is a little larger than it will be after surfacing.




Well like I said in the original Goerz-Paeco post I think this is a very viable approach to producing DOHC head.  Should make for an interesting conversation.







Oh and one more thing.

What good would a thread about casting a head be without.......




















An actual casting.







We poured this Monday and I just got these pics from the foundry today. I haven't seen the head personally but we're pretty sure it is good enough to move forward with. 


Still lots to do but you can't imagine how happy I am to get the first one right. 


As long as things proceed as planned I will be selling these. There is still a lot to figure out. I have the foundry working up some pricing for me and I'll post that as soon as I can.


Thanks for looking



EDIT: I now have a blog about this head on my site. I'm going to continue to post here but the blog is a condensed version of what you see here. There is a FAQ on the left side bar that has a lot of data. If you are new to this build you may want to come up to speed there and then start following it here as there is a lot of great back and forth that isn't on the blog.


#409750 Alternate B&W T5 clutch slave set up.

Posted by ThomaZ on 27 July 2006 - 11:38 AM

When I installed a CSB 350 together with a Borg-Warner T5 NWC gearbox in my 1972 240Z I followed the JTR manual almost to the letter.

As recommended by members on this board I used an 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit). It fits the hole pattern in the firewall without trimming. I installed an AN4 fitting (like Summit RUS-66042-1) and a custom-made steel braided hose down to the stock GM plastic slave cylinder (SC).

The set up had several disadvantages. The connection to the plastic SC was fragile. I hade to hammer a bulge into the lower part of the fire wall to get sufficing clearance for the cutch arm.
It was so difficult to bleed. I didn't get it to work well. The clutch disengaged, but just barely.
The SC ended up very close to the down tub from the headers. I made an heat shield but it doubt it worked.

After just 1000 kilometers (625 miles) the SC quite and dumped all the fluid out around the pushrods. I was reluctant to just reinstall a new plastic SC so I started to investigate an alternative; and bellow is what I ended up with.

I used a SC with aluminum housing from Wilwood (WIL-260-1333 at Summit Racing). It is a pulling clutch SC so it needs a new mount and a modified clutch arm.

Posted Image
The stock clutch arm was shorted and an a hole drilled in it for the push rod
Posted Image
Posted Image
I fabricated a SC mount from 1/8" steel. I made some simple cardboard templates an the cut it out with a hack saw and bent it in a wise. It was then stick welded together. I made it to pick up on of the "ears" on the gearbox housing and two mounting bolts on the aft face of the gear box. It is a simple design and I hope the photos will aid if you wish to duplicate it.

The stock nipple on the Wilwood SC was replace with an other AN4 nipple and I had a new steel braided hose made. It is 800 mm (31.5") long and has 90 degree bend on both ends.

Posted Image
Posted Image
The rest of the photos shows the system installed. It works really well. It was simple to bleed and it disengages and engages distinctively. As can be seen from the photo it clears the firewall and the trans tunnel. It sits higher up in the trans tunnel an clears the exhaust tube with comfortable margin.

The disadvantages is that you must remove the bell housing from the engine to be able to remove and install the clutch arm and the clutch arm is hard as nails to drill in! Use a drill press, top quality drill bits, work slowly and use cutting fluid.

I have now put approx. 2000 km (1.250 miles) on it and it still works well, so I thought it would be something worthwhile sharing.

Best regards

#1122708 Throttle cable setup - Lockar & custom bracket

Posted by T-Bone028 on 05 October 2014 - 05:41 AM

For anyone thinking of picking one of these up...it made converting to cable incredibly easy and reversible.

If you search my posts, you should find an off the shelf parts list and how I set it up. Part came quickly and shipped the day after I sent paypal. Definitely recommend!

#1045943 Ready to blow my brains out

Posted by NewZed on 12 March 2013 - 01:51 PM

Recent posters are ignoring or unaware of the history of Ben's Z's project.  If you don't consider his other threads it does seem like Tony D just walked in to the party and started acting like an ass.  But Ben's Z's project is a series of errors and ignored advice.  He seems more focused on venting on the forum than actually doing things right.  It's almost like he goes out in to the garage to screw something up so that he can come here and bitch about the injustice of the world. 


You do have to give him credit though, for continuously coming back to expose his lack of skills, and for more of the resulting verbal abuse.  It's certainly entertaining and I'm looking forward to future threads about the blown engine/turbo/transmission or whatever, once he gets it running, in the the next year or two.

#915100 The official White Z thread

Posted by Slammed68 on 06 January 2011 - 07:14 PM

Posted Image

Posted Image

Oh BTW, Hi Myron! haha

#906280 Kick Panel Speaker Mounts now available

Posted by Derek on 17 November 2010 - 08:13 AM

Well I finally worked out all the kinks and I've got stock on these.
Remember they only fit 70-73 240 only and only use 5 1/4" speakers.
Here is a link to the build thread
Build thread
And a link to Nullbounds reveiw

The price is $110.00 plus shipping. If you don't need the hood cable bracket knock off $10.00.
Sorry no International right now. Only US addresses.

Posted Image

#839812 Rota RB/RB-R, 4x114.3, 17", Z-Offset Wheels

Posted by Drax240z on 08 February 2010 - 11:35 PM

hi, if i should buy some new Rbr for $630 17x8.5 all corners with +4 offset. any 1 using 8.5 in all corners?? Thanks

Please re-read the rules to this site. Basic spelling and grammar are required when posting here.

#443921 As requested, my Bedliner restored Dash

Posted by HoustonZ on 07 November 2006 - 01:56 PM

Possibily, but I'm not that concerned about weight. It only weighs about 5 pounds more then stock.

#417384 Where does the "Reputation" description come from?

Posted by Datsun350Z on 21 August 2006 - 08:31 AM

I just threw a positive towards your rep.

How's the Z scott was working on looking?
Got any pics?

#395046 Toyota 4x4 Braking problem

Posted by bjhines on 13 June 2006 - 08:56 AM

there is a problem with your left front caliper.. return it

This assumes that you cleaned everything properly (pads and disks).... contamination will cause this as well...

#1191662 Reconsidering my L28ET build

Posted by Shanks on 31 May 2017 - 06:46 PM

I really dived into creating a parts list for the 2JZ build tonight and would love to do it, but the more I look into it the more I am realizing, while I could do it and would love it, I am not sure I want to spend that kind of time and money on the 240z, no matter how much I love it. For the 2JZ it would involve a significant amount of additional fabrication as well as higher costs all around in other departments, especially labor as I just don't have the time to learn and do this myself. I would rather make sure I take care of my retirement goals every year and have a kick ass L28et I can put right in myself and have the project finished in a few months if I want to. The diminishing returns I would get for the amount of work for an extra 100 or 200 HP doesn't make sense on the 2JZ, but I did enjoy the feedback from you guys so thanks for your input! There's nowhere like here to have a good convo about these cars. I tried to give out some likes but I don't have the rep I'm afraid.

#1170971 RIP John Coffey (johnc)

Posted by RebekahsZ on 09 May 2016 - 08:18 PM

For the guys who know him better:  What would you think of memorializing johnc with an annual scholarship for the cost of ZCON track day tuition, starting in 2017?  It could be called "The Hybridz John Coffey Memorial ZCON Scholarship."  I could be in charge of collecting the money and starting a thread each year to take nominations and votes.

#1156393 240Z Pro-Touring Build

Posted by johnc on 19 October 2015 - 12:14 PM

Good luck with your build. There are a number of contradictions in your plan but there always are any of these projects. Compromise is the name of the game. Focus on the ultimate goal when making the small decisions.

#1122951 Nothing but errors again

Posted by Leon on 07 October 2014 - 10:14 PM

Lots of backend problems lately.



#1078439 (SOLD) 1972 Datsun 240z - SR20DET - Clean & Reliable - Performance Upgra...

Posted by alexx933 on 03 October 2013 - 09:45 PM

Oh, this is beautiful! Wish I had the kind of money you need for this. GLWS 

#1045532 T3 turbo to intercooler tubing

Posted by zeeboost on 09 March 2013 - 06:32 PM

There exists a sacred build thread where several people posted pictures of their setups that could give you an idea of how to route the pipes. Because this website is stingy with sharing information, the administrator often buries it deep within the archives. To help you find it, I've created this treasure map. If you don't follow its exact instructions, you may not find the information you're looking for, so I implore you to stay the course all the way through the long, cruel journey. Good luck:

Attached Thumbnails

  • itscalledsearch.jpg

#1021690 Picked up an early 260Z

Posted by RebekahsZ on 29 September 2012 - 11:53 AM

I could never get my carbs to stay synche'd with those insulators. Finally found some made of bakelite and they solved the problem. Looks great-traitor!😜