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With a working alternator your battery voltage should be from 13.0 volts up to 14.9 volts. From your readings I will say the alternator is not charging the battery. Your battery voltage should be 12 volts. Get the battery charged up first. A lot of shops have a newer type of charger that will charge the jell type AGM, Optima Batteries. I would also check your system for a draw. I would disconnect that new head unit you installed. Seems like the problems started with that install.
I had the same idea as you just a few minutes ago about disconnecting things. The battery read 13.30V this time with the jumper cables.
Before that though, I had the multimeter propped up still reading the battery while I turned ACC on and started disconnecting things. I disconnect power and ground to the head unit and wideband gauge. When I went from having no power applied, to power applied, the voltage would drop by around .08V and stick there temporarily. I then proceeded to disconnect power and ground to the head unit and wideband individually. I noticed when I had power connected to wideband, and connected the ground, voltage would drop by around .10 rapidly, then when I took the ground off, it'd climb back up, connect ground, voltage back down and it sticks at a certain voltage. I did the same with the headunit and it didn't have nearly the same symptoms. So I immediately thought the wideband to be suspect.
So I hooked up jumper cables again, started the car, took off the cables and monitored the voltage with the grounds taken off both the headunit and wideband at the same time, but with their power wires still connected, and the voltage was STILL dropping. I took off power to the headunit and same deal. I however didn't take the power wire off the wideband yet, but I figured that'd be a lost cause.
So right now, I'm at a standstill and more confusion. I'll start tracing more wires when I have more free time. But as off now, I couldn't visibly see any exposed wires.
What is the item that you are cooling the "Head Unit"??? Please use the proper terminology such that appropriate advice can be issued. It sounds as though the Alternator is good but the wiring is faulty and not connecting the alternator to the battery properly. Do you have the wiring diagram for the 240Z? What is the "Digital Gauge"??? What does this gauge indicate? The 240Z has the ammeter in series with the alternator and the battery to measure charge/discharge current. What is the ammeter indicating throughout all these exercises? An appropriately charged battery should be slightly greater than +12 volts. When cranking the engine for starting the voltage should not go lower than 8 volts DC. If it goes lower there are bad cells in the battery. When the alternator is initially charging after engine start, the alternator voltage should be +14.x volts. As the battery attains a charge the alternator voltage should taper off somewhat from +14v yet still stay above +12v. The newer alternators need only a small amount of current from the battery to provide excitation for the alternator field to cause it to generate 12 - 14 vdc. There may be an excitation return (2 wire excitation) to ground or battery negative to complete the circuit. Normally the case of the alternator is the return or ground path for both excitation and heavy current to charge the battery. The other heavy post or connection on the alternator connects back to the battery through a heavy current (low or no resistance to current flow) fused wire. Older alternator charging systems had more (complicated) wiring than newer charging systems.
Hope this helps. Will look at the 240Z wiring diagram to see which OLD alternator system wiring IS NOT NEEDED.
Source: Suddenly not keeping a charge.
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This is saved for my own referance.
The 5-lug swap is quite easy, the most difficult part will be getting the
caliper-disk spacing correct. I have done this swap on several 510's and it
works really well.
Get the front hubs and rotors off an 84-89 300ZX Turbo, or an 86-89
non-turbo 300ZX. Remove the hubs and rotors off of your 280ZX struts and
slide the 300ZX hub onto the spindle. You will note that the spacing for the
rotor does not match the caliper. You will need to make or fabricate a
spacer to match the difference between the rotor and where the caliper
mounts to the strut. Another way to do this is to seperate the disk from the
rotor and make a spacer that fits between the hub and rotor.
This is also an excellent opportunity to upgrade to a better front brake
caliper. The 300ZX disks are 11" diameter and vented-- even bigger than your
280ZX disks. One swap that I saw that worked really well was the use of
Toyota four-piston truck calipers on the 300ZX disks. The Toyota calipers
are very common and easy to find. They are however, very heavy as they are
made from iron.
Another brake caliper to use is the one off of the 86+ Mazda Turbo II's.
This is an all-aluminum, four piston caliper, and can be found quite easily.
The RX-7 caliper is very light, and there are plenty of performance pads to
be found for them. This is the setup that I am using on my 510. You will
have to build a spacer to use these calipers (but you have to do that
anyway) and you will need to match the RX-7's caliper bolt pattern (easy to do).
** note from Ross: these pads are ~4x3", a huge pad by any standards!**
The rear disks are easy to convert to five-lug. I am using 280ZX rear
trailing arms so I have direct experience with this part of the project.
First remove the four-lug disk, caliper, and stub axle from the control arm.
You will need a large impact wrench to remove the stub axle, they have a
single, very large nut that requires an impact to remove it. Slide the stub
axle out of the control arm and use a press to remove three of the four
studs. Since the four lug pattern is 4x4.5, and the 5-lug pattern is 5x4.5,
one of the studs is in the correct place. I had a spare 5-lug disk that I
used as my pattern. Slide the disk over the remaining stud and center the
disk onto the stub axle. Once you are sure that the disk is centered, mark
the other four holes. Use a drill press to drill the holes just barely
larger than the new studs that you are going to install. You want the studs
to just fit through the hole. Using the press again, press the other four
studs splined ends into the stub axle. One of the studs will be close to the
edge of the stub axle because of the 5-lug pattern. We determined there is
enough material to support it, but if you are concerned you can easily add
You can redrill your rear disks for a 5-lug pattern, which would be nice
because then your rear caliper would work, or use the 300ZX turbo rear disks
and calipers, but they are a larger diameter so you will need to make a new
BP says that the latest cap it has fitted to the top of the well is successfully halting all oil gushing into the Gulf of Mexico.
I hope it's true.
If so that is a happy thing and I am not going to project into the future, just enjoy the moment.
Good luck and take care...
I need to fix my front suspension (struts/springs) and have searched' date=' read this thread, & also the Brian's garage link. Looks like the only 280 procurement issue is the stop with the 2.17" ID. Any thoughts on exhaust pipe here swaged out a little or does the stop need to be larger in diameter than exhaust tubing?
I also noted some of his parts links were not valid part numbers, and by searching here, our member Here Comes Trouble linked this stuff at A1 racing.
5" COIL OVER SLEEVE, SPECIAL ORDER, FITS STRUT HOUSINGS, SLEEVE I.D. IS 2.170"
List Price $24.44
Your Price $18.80
In the thread, Trouble advised someone had bought all 100 they had made and he was trying to get in touch with him. He also posted a link to Held Motorsports for 2.170 parts.
COIL OVER NUT FOR 2 1/2" I.D. SPRING, FITS COK12442/48/49 COIL OVER KITS AND COK12453/59 COIL OVER SLEEVES
List Price $16.73
Your Price $12.87
COIL OVER TOP, NON-SLOTTED FOR 2 1/2" I.D. SPRING, FITS PRO SHOCKS and MOST STRUT APPLICATIONS
List Price $16.30
Your Price $12.54
Summit seems to have the best deal for 2.5" springs as listed on Brian's page.
I'm planning on running 10" springs front & rear, no desire to radically lower the car beyond stock ride height (my problem is I curently have 6" between the 14" tire & fender lip, no idea what the rate is for these springs but it must be up there or from another car).
I took the struts apart & the springs that were in there are 15" uncompressed.
Found this great thread, has good info for coilovers.
Man this winter has been unreal... Yesterday morning I blew snow for about an hour while I was letting the fire warm the garage... By yesterday afternoon we'd picked up another 10 inches and I had to go back over it again... We're at over 2 feet.
So, I managed to finish up the base for the driver's seat, and get it primed and painted and ready to reinstal the seat. I also managed to finish up the hood Dzeus fastener adjustment so they all work now... Today I might get back down there and finish up the harness mounts for the harnesses for both seats. The original bar location was to low for the mounting of the seats. Unfortunately when I had the cage done, I did not have seats yet and the fabricator was guessing I'd have the seats on the floorpan... So... No big deal, but I need to raise the shoulder strap locations...
I also need to weld a pair of braces in at the fuel cell that will aid in rear impact safety and a couple of small brackets for bolting on the radiator air box... Then the welding is done and I can get back to the final buttoning up of the car.
On the Miata front, I have the car stripped and loaded in the car trailer. It's going out for a SPEC LEGAL specmiata cage instal. The car was supposed to be at their shop on Friday, but the impending weather diverted us... I'm hoping to get there tomorrow, but the region is under a state of emergency and the auxilery drive to the shop has NOT been cleared yet...
On the dreaded black winged car front... got it back from a lengthy stay at the shop. Had the transmission completely gutted and rebuilt with much stronger parts, along with a new billet Guards limited slip, upgraded clutch/pressure plate, and upgraded clutch hydraulics. I've got a pile of new parts to instal on it. New monoball suspension components, new Xflow exhaust system, new front bumper cover and inner fender liners... Lots of bits and pieces.
Has anyone installed an 280ZX Auxillary Cooling Fan in a 240Z. How do you make this work. I have the auxillary cooling fan and the fan timer. Just need to know how to connect this unit so that it runs when the car is switched off.
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Got the JM lexus technician job and I couldn't be happier.
I dropped off that resume cold about 5 months ago.
Then I whine here on this blog and get a phone call to come in for an interview a couple days later.
Three straight days of interviews and a piss test later, I am employed.
I'll keep developing the L28et Infiniti M30 but it will be hard to not be seduced by the dark side to the point of putting together a toyota/lexus project.
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Many things begin tentatively and tritely, so why not this?
For over 10 years I have been tinkering with my Datsun, first as a newbie owner of a dilapidated stocker, then as a customer of a semi-pro building who did a fantastic job on a roll cage and V8 swap â€“ only to find myself unable to deal with what really amounts to car maintenance, rather than car building. Over the years moved from California to the Midwest, bought a house in the countryside with a long driveway for burnouts and plenty of garage space, but my skills have not improved, and my motivation has atrophied. And no, I canâ€™t blame family tensions or job loss or dementia (at least not yet); some of the greatest obstacles are emotional, ineffable, divorced from practical constraints or logic.
So hereâ€™s hoping for a less whiny and more productive 2010. And hereâ€™s hoping that EVERYONE has a better year and even better years ahead!
IM NEW TO THIS FORUM SO BARE WITH ME ON THSI QUESTION. I JUST GOT A 1985 NISSAN 300ZX TURBO AND IT HAS A POP OF VALVE AND ALSO A BLOW OF VALVE. IS IT SAFE FOR THE ENGINE TO BE RUNNING ON BOTH POP OF VALVE AND BLOW OF VALVE IN THE SAME TIME. THANKS
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So why is it, that no one uses the blog feature? Is this just another test brought on by the admins? is it going to end up like the chat box?
Today a young man on acid realised that all matter is just energy condensed to a slow vabration, that we are all one consciousness experiencing itself subjectively, there is no such thing as death, life is only a dream and we are the imagination of ourselves, Here's tom with the weather.
Well, I just figured out where my paycheck is going to be going. Struts? Nope. Springs? Not even. Tires maybe? Not that. Then what you may ask? A speeding ticket that's what! How disappointing this is...and I have only myself to blame. Early this morning on the way to meet up with a friend. Traffic was cleared because most people had already made the commute to work. I decided to open her up a little. I get it up to about 100mph and then let up and begin to creep down to about 80. Then I look behind me and I see the damning lights of a motorcycle highway patrol tailgating me. He cites me a speeding ticket for 100mph and tells me that my car is a piece of junk and he's surprised it was running. I grin in berret and reassure him that "I just bought it a few days ago". I'm sure he figured otherwise and proceeded to have me pop open the hood and bitches at me for my intercooler, aluminum radiator, crankcase breather, intake, exhaust etc etc. I play dumb but it didn't work (wasn't expecting it too). So he proceeded to give me a fix it ticket for the intake and exhaust and tells me I have to go to the BAR and get it signed off. What the hell have I gotten myself into?
Okay, I didn't know there was a blog where I could express my thoughts on my car. Now I will do so.
So in about April of '09, I was looking through craigslist in my spare time. I found a blue 280z, little rust, no dents, and not running for $600. I was so amped up, I've been wanting an s30 since junior year of highschool, and all I needed, (the seller claimed) was a head gasket. So I picked it up.
My co-worker was a laid off mechanic working with me at the local smoothie shop. He offered to fix it for half the price I was quoted. I just need for his schedule to open up, and his friends (they were going to work on it in his friends garage). Unfortunately, the previous owner had posted false tags, so a city official called it in to get towed, took a $250 fine, and paying back fees(fees previous owners accumulated, that the buerocracy believes I'm liable for) at the DMV $200.
I found out I'd have to get it registered. Can't even get a PNO(planned non-operation) without a smog...can't get a smog without it running...can't park it in the street without it registered...so for the time being, I rented a parking spot in a storage facility for $100/month.
After paying 1 month, I found a different mechanic on craigslist who quoted me $600 after an inspection, I agreed. He told me my L28 was locked up, unless it gets rebuilt, for hundreds more, it's not an option and I'd need a new engine.
So I found an engine advertised as an L28...Looked like one, except for a big orange blower type thing on it. I bought it, took it to the mechanic, and it was an L26.
So I still needed another engine, found another on CL a 280zxturbo. I asked my mechanic if this would work, he said "Wonferfully!". So I ask my friend for a favor, we drive 80 miles, out to San Bernardino, got it, and dropped it off at the mechanics house.
He put the engine in, then started giving me the same excuses I used for turning my research papers in late at school. The old dead granny story. So he said he'd be too busy to work on it. I think he's just a dumbass who didn't know how to fix it in the first place and just decided to back out. He returned my money, except for $200 in parts, and brought a tow dolly to bring to its next destination.
So now the engine's in, not the headers or the intake. I took it to a place called Doctor J in Huntington Beach, who advertises themselves as the "Doctor of Z's". When I brought it to them, they had 2 other Z's in the garage, so this gave me some confidence that I could trust their work. They look at it and tell me the L28ET wouldn't work. Because my manifold compression is at different rates, and the engine didn't come with the turbo so it's gonna lack power. So I need another engine
I hop back onto CL, find an L28E for $500 with low miles. Ask another favor of another friend, I get it, and bring them it. They're amazed that I got it for only $500, they find them for $1000 at least. So it feels good I have the right engine finally, and I got a deal on it.
Now it's just a waiting game until they get it running. In the mean time I'm trying to sell the L28(locked up), L26, and L28ET, not looking good so far.
I get a call from Doctor J! I joyously pick up the phone, and they inform me the fuel lines we're poorly connected and there was gas spraying everywhere when they tried to start it. So they needed to order new lines, and install them.
A week later, I get a call from Doctor J. I cautiosly answer the phone expecting another problem. It turned out to be some good news and bad news. My cars running, but it has no catalytic converter, and they suspect a leaky brake line. Both are estimated to be $600. I agreed, they told me tomorrow is when they expect it to be ready.
Lets do some math here to figure out how much I'm spending
Doctor J total estimate
$450 + (future registration unknown)
2 engines I didn't need (hopefully I can sell them)
$600 (this was a steal)
total = roughly $4,650...(potentially $4,050 If I sell both running engines for $300)
I might have been better off getting a running one for about 2k-3k, but I would feel bad knowing that most "projects" go underfunded, and ignored, leaving the entire car years and years to accumulate rust, parts to degrade, and eventually become unsaveable in itself, and it's only use ends up as a parts car. So it's not too bad that I'm spending a little more into saving this 280z.
This is a list as a reminder for me of what parts I need to get for my 240Z project.
Heater fan switch
temperature regulated switch for my electric fan
Blue LED light strip to run as sidemarker lights around my headlights. (looks so cool)
Turn signal relay (mine sucks, it only works half of the time)
More bondo to finish paint prep
Polyurethane enamel paint (cool vanilla and black)
Filler Primer- high build
Wet sand paper; 180,220,600,800,1500
Painting supplies ie; acetone, thinner, any other paint additives needed.
Compressor with regulator
Safe place to spray the car and let dry overnight
Cleaner for the plastic and vinyl
Rear interior side panels
Dash repair kit
I know there are more things...but I will have to add them later as I remember them.
im in the process of wiring up a 82 turbo motor in my 75 280z and i had a couple questions. on the harness there are 2 plugs on the inside of the car near where it plugs into the computer. i was wondering what those plugs went to. i was also curious if there was anything that i could get rid of from the harness or the motor that i wouldn't need.
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Hello, every one at hybridz.org!!, My name is Simeon, Me and My partner are holding a rally october 21-24th, its a 5k buy in, first prize is 150k, second- 25k third 5k, it starts off in oaks p.a. and ends at an undisclosed local in C.A. clues to the final destination will be given out at the check point in Phoenix A.Z. for more information or to sign up email Simeon@thebandittour.com, and spread the word, this is not a race of speed its a navigational/endurance tour any one can win! there will also be a car show during the 24 during the day an a massive party that night !! check out the website, more information will be posted on the site during the next couple of day Thebandittour.com
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I started to really hate my car, I have done so much to get this car up and running better but every time i do something else goes wrong, i just don't get it, is this car a complete loss cause its thirty years old or what, I have to figure out what to do here? I really love this car but i don't know what to do................
True to my word, I've organized the meet in full. Please leave a comment and/or donation on my site (below) so I have an idea of who's showing up, and invite as many fun people as you can think of to join us ([single] ladies especially). If there are any questions, concerns, or suggestions, send me an email at drummingpariah 'at' gmail.com. If you don't know how to get to Anza, email me and I'll send you detailed directions and give you my cell number so you'll be sure to make it. Looking forward to seeing you all there!
Here's the link for the official info:
Please, please, please, leave a comment if you're coming, and if you aren't going to bring anything, donate $5 (or whatever you can afford) so I can pick up supplies ahead of time.
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