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HybridZ
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  2. To bore or not to bore

    Got it, I'll be looking more into that crank walk issue and those iron piston rings. I do have non vvti internals that I was co aoderig putting in the engine. What are your honest opinions though, will the motor just consume a little oil or will there be an even bigger problem?
  3. 71 240Z LS1 T56

    Sale is currently pending.
  4. Exposed's 1jz Build

    Very nice patient build! You have to do something with your time during the 10 month winter in Winterpeg....lol jk... sorta haha Does the TTT strut bar clear the engine?
  5. Today
  6. Exposed's 1jz Build

    That looks very cool! I just noticed, are you going to run just the filters on the valve covers?
  7. '83 ZX 5 speed transmission

    Do you still have them trans? Open to any trades for parts or just cool Datsun stuff? I'm in San Juan cap. Area my names Andy my cell is 949-939-8313 thanks
  8. Arizona Z-Car aluminum radiator - Free

    Same thing happened to my Arizona zRadiator jack slipped from under crossmember trying to move car to side lol doesn't leak great offer
  9. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    ^I think that would be kind of nice, along with yellow octopus's note. If someone was curious they could find the build list with links to specific threads, whether that is original content or a thread that helped shape their decision. Any feedback from Dan? I know he is a busy guy, but is this helpful? I know comments can even with the best of intensions be unwanted at some point. I think all of us here want this forum to survive, it would be nice if maybe our efforts could be directed towards specific problems.
  10. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Maybe adding a build sheet section something like wheelwell.com (almost a spreadsheet) , where you can have a build sheet basically with links to all threads that person started might be cool. Also could put links to all the parts used to make it easier for someone else trying to find them. May be too complicated to implement though.
  11. VK56 swap into a convertible Z32

    Sorry for the multiple posts but I have only had small chunks of time to post everything. The stock trans mount works with the engine and adapter plate. Also the adapter plate may need some modification to gain ground clearance. More when I get another chance to work on it Cheers
  12. VK56 swap into a convertible Z32

    Got my trans adapter from Collins had to clean out some threads on it and cut out one of the mounting holes off for another trans. Wouldn't clear the starter. Had to clearance the bellhousing..... not very good, after mock up I will return to clean this up. For even more space I had to clearance the starter as well. Hopefully this doesn't effect the structural strength that's suppprting the starter gear After this attempt I found out that the oil pan has to come off in order to install.
  13. Exposed's 1jz Build

    started the down pipe this weekend and tacked everything together for the time being. First time using pie cuts, dont think it came out to bad. A lot of welding to do though.
  14. 1973 260Z Driveshaft

    New price....$50 plus shipping.
  15. Well I have finally started, I own a 1994 Z32 manual and convertible. I decided to do the VK56 swap solly on the whim that I haven't found very many people doing it. My hopes: - VK56 swap -Manual trans rebuilt -Stand alone engine management - Possible turbo setup after installation - and all kinds of other modifications, money and skills pending. Of course all and any feed back is appreciated. I know some people are delving into this as I speak, a few of them on here even. Cheers,
  16. Does the sticking only happen while you're driving, or does it happen while the car is sitting too? Do you feel anything strange about the clutch? I've repaired to slightly similar things on my first car and the Datsun, but nothing quite the same. Datsun was going into gear when it was off, but I couldn't get it to shift at all once it was on, and I couldn't put it out of neutral once it was running. I think the issue was a seized throwout bearing. Not necessarily the best way to go about it, but I fixed this by raising the back end and starting it in gear. Engine has a lot more power than I do so the bearing came loose and I was able to shift freely after that. This seems to be a more common issue on FWD cars. It's an issue with the linkages not working properly or not being properly connected.
  17. Hi all, So I just fired up my 71 after working on the car for the past few years. The engine and tranny sat during all that time, but previous to that, the tranny had no problems at all. after taking it for a test spin, I've realized all the gears on the bottom of the shifter (2nd, 4th, and reverse) Are impossible to get into, and though I can shift into 1st, once I shift into 3rd it usually gets stuck in that gear. After some internet digging I've found a case of what sounds to be the same issue ( ) though his final update isn't a whole lot of help "Well, I eventually took it to a guy who knows a lot more about transmissions, who took it out the car and found it was some pin or something attached to an arm that broke. Ended up being really minor, thankfully. Car is back on the road " After looking at the fsm, page 8 (attached), I'm assuming one of the pins on the diagram the FSM owner circled is the pin he is referring to, though I'm not sure. My other guess is the return spring plug (#5 on the diagram) though that is a complete guess based off of what I've read online. I'm curious if anyone has experienced this and would know of the likely culprit. Like I say, it was 100% when I removed it, and isn't fine now. I've bled the clutch and the slave is working as it is supposed to as far as I can tell. Any help is appreciated, thank you! TM Transmission.pdf
  18. Got the roll bar in and started stitch welding the existing panels that were in good shape and adding more metal for rigidity. I'll be adding some gussets to the "X" and adding additional bars. Also, starting working on the floor pans with some DIY metal forming. Crazy how much stiffer the sheet is with the formed areas. I also had to make more room on the top of the trans tunnel for the bell housing. This weekend I hope to finish up the roll bar and get both rockers finished then I can start on the floor pans and rear quarters. On to the pictures:
  19. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    UPDATE: DSS is asking for the stub axles back again for one more try. Sending them back today. As frustrating as this has been, I will at least give DSS credit for repeatedly trying to make it right. Side note: the CV axles appear to be too short as well........ With all of the drama surrounding this conversion I measured every single part yesterday and the axle bar is 1 inch too short. DSS asked me to bolt up the stubs when they arrive and take measurements...... They will replace the axle bar once they know the stubs fit properly. Just another step to take the half shaft cv axles back apart and send them back for correction. As long as I'm back racing by march-april I'm good to go. Thanks to the community and vendors that have reached out in private and forum for all the help and support. Jim
  20. TrackZpeeds CXRacing LS1 T56 240z

    UPDATE: DSS is asking for the stub axles back again for one more try. Sending them back today. As frustrating as this has been, I will at least give DSS credit for repeatedly trying to make it right. Side note: the CV axles appear to be too short as well........ With all of the drama surrounding this conversion I measured every single part yesterday and the axle bar is 1 inch too short. DSS asked me to bolt up the stubs when they arrive and take measurements...... They will replace the axle bar once they know the stubs fit properly. Just another step to take the half shaft cv axles back apart and send them back for correction. As long as I'm back racing by march-april I'm good to go. Thanks to the community and vendors that have reached out in private and forum for all the help and support. Jim
  21. As you can assume since I am posting to this section of the website, I am new here! I have been a long time lurker and am finally starting my own build. I will be posting that to the proper location, but I will share a little about myself here. I have had my Z32 for close on ten years, and there has been no work to it since I have owned it. I am finally changing that, and probably with the easiest swap of all! (Sarcasm) A little about myself, I am an Industrial Mechanic by trade with experience in fabrication, electrical, machining and all sort of other pertinent subjects. Well it's not much, and I hope I haven't broken any rules about posting. I hope to keep learning from the wisdom here and enlightened as I make my way through this project. Everyone keep working hard but most of all have fun!
  22. magasqirt wiring diagram

    If using an MS1 or MS2 and stock Nissan injectors ( Low-Impedance ) then I would strongly suggest using the factory dropping resistors. For some reason the MS1 and MS2 Pulse Width Control Limiting is a bit flaky with the Nissan Jecs Low-z injectors. It's hit or miss if it works correctly. If you change to different injectors I would suggest going to Hi-Impedance to save yourself from headaches. The MS3 PWCL drivers seem to be fine. MS3 uses entirely different coding though. IMHO it's firmware is much better than Ms2. Less " quirky "
  23. magasqirt wiring diagram

    There are different hardware manuals for Version 3.0 and 3.57 main boards. You didn't state what you have. but here is MS2 version 3.0 main board.
  24. magasqirt wiring diagram

    MS extra forums are the best place to find info like that. The MS2 Hardware manual will have what you want. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/ms2manuals/ And just to reiterate, the MobyTheVan articles are really ancient history. Much better ways to do things now.
  25. WTB: Luggage/ Cargo Straps

    New wasn't an option?
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