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  1. Today
  2. 78 280Z LS3 Project

    Thanks Richard, I get a lot of inspiration from you guys. Looks like we will be starting the motor this weekend then I should be on the road by the end of October if everything works as expected.
  3. 78 280Z LS3 Project

    Your attention to detail is great everything is done to such a high standard. Take pride in this, it is well deserved. Nice job. R
  4. Alternator wiring?

    Double check with LS1 tech. I used a Camaro alternator and did a resistor across the field wire and ran one wire to the battery. YOU NEED two cable one to the starter and one to the alternator. HTH, Richard.
  5. Building an L28 (NA)

    Glad yo were able to solve your fuel issues. the engine sounds awesome but how does it feel? is it everything you had hoped? Also 14 AFR at cruise seems fine to me why do you want to richen it up?
  6. Any pictures of intake manifold, would love to do something like that with a direct port nitrous set up.
  7. Hey all, Long time lurker, first-time poster. I am currently in the process of building an early 240z with a rb26 in it. I have just finished rebuilding my motor and mating it to the rb25 gearbox so I am in the process of getting it all mounted up in place. I am using the CXracing mount kit. I would have gone the McKinney kit but unfortunately here in Australia the dollar was low at the time of ordering so this was the only affordable one. Anyway, I have got the engine mounted up and am having trouble getting the gearbox up in the tunnel as the speedo sensor is interfering with the ears. I'm not sure the best way to go about fixing this issue. I have seen plenty of pics of peoples mods of notching out the bracket with the other style of tunnel mounting but I can't see any solutions that utilise the cx mounts I have. Has anyone come across and solved this problem at all? I have uploaded 2 pics of the interference, and also one of the mounts that I have that attaches between the ears. I have already tried just moving the engine forwards but the mounts are already set such that the engine is as far forward as possible. Any help would be much appreciated!!
  8. McKinney Engine & Gearbox Mount Alignment Issues?

    Has anyone done a mod like this for the rb25 speedo but with the other style of factory mount? Its not as simple as notching it for this as i need to retain the mounting hole. Any ideas?
  9. I'm having a hard time seeing any alignment/misalignment in the picture. The master cylinder should be directly inline with the pedal left/right, and should be pretty close to one of the holes in the pedal up/down. Here's a picture of the connection I lifted from atlanticz
  10. New topstage z kit

    Holy cow! That is gorgeous!
  11. I installed an after market Tilton clutch master cylinder, you can see in the picture the rod from the master cylinder does not line up with the clutch pedal. The rod is offset by about 3/4". The 240Z was missing the master cylinder, so I did not see how it was connected. How does the rod connect to the clutch pedal?
  12. 240Z LS3 TR6060 Build

    Just curious, I don't see any mention of it, but to fit the tr6060, did you need to modify the tunnel at all? did the shifter line up okay? any clearance issues at all?
  13. 1971 240z Project

    Picture size is fine. Better than having to click on each individual thumbnail.
  14. Help me value 280z with L28ET swap

    The little filler panel on the rear is only on 77-78 280Zs. It's spot welded on, and to remove it you (or body shop) will have to drill out the spot welds, smooth them out (be careful with the spot welder to make sure you don't end up with holes) and then you'll need to do a little painting. Not too big a deal, but not something you just unbolt and remove. If you are after something that is stockish, but with some suspension work and some more power, then I think this car would fit the bill pretty well. Hope it works out.
  15. **** it lost already

  16. VOLVO 850 FAN INSTALL

    94 -97 Volvo 850 electric fan Source: Summit Racing Dorman Electric Fans 620-883 $141.97 Painless Performance 30100 Electric 70 amp Fan Relay Kits p/n . $49 Comes with Maxi Fuse. Painless Performance p/n 30111 Fan Control, Thermostatic, 185 Degrees On/170 (grounding) $47.9 Works perfect. Custom 19" H x 19.5" W x 1.5" Deep aluminum shroud by Mike Tolle Fabrication, Sacramento, Ca. Replaces failed Flex- a- lite Black Magic fan on Arizona Z Cars radiator. See post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122990-arizona-z-cars-radiator/
  17. Yesterday
  18. 78 280Z LS3 Project

    Thank you, It's a K&N Air Filter RC-5171 it flows 1654 cfm and my motor requires 1038 cfm according to all the calculations we have done. It is a pretty good size but I wanted to make sure I was covered in case I increase the Nitrous shot. I angled it downwards a little in order not to obstruct the radiator too much.
  19. Drag racing suspension

    Here's a photo I found of the torque arm on a Miata. I can't attest to the effectiveness of it. The way I see it, no matter what the diff's behavior is going directly into the chassis itself so I can't see it doing much, not like with a live axle where the diff is a part of the suspension instead of the chassis. I would just use a RT mount to keep the nose of the diff stable. My car has been modified to use a Ford 8.8 and it's still a few years away from being able to test drive or anything, so I have nothing to back up my claims, just keep that in mind. haha.
  20. 1971 240z Project

    I've been doing a few things. I had a fuel leak from the mechanical fuel pump so I decided to go with an electric K & N. I've also done some work on the front valance, put in a Magnaflow muffler (I'm not sure I'll stick with it), and made a cover for the spare tire area. Also, I don't know how to make the pics smaller...
  21. Have you shipped any yet? I just moved and my address has changed.
  22. Well it runs and drives! I was covered in media material after the first drive, but well worth it. Doing a 4 wheel alignment in the garage this week and plan to hit the drag strip Fri and maybe an autocross Sun. The one drivetrain issue I'm still chasing down is a locker noise. I am running a yukon tru-trac locker in the rear and it likes to pop on decel. Some guys are saying this is normal, but it's pretty dang loud. I plan to add another 1/2 quart of fluid and see if that does anything...
  23. Drag racing suspension

    So miatas use a open style torque tube that runs from the differential to the transmission. It is the same setup as the corvette torque tube except that it is only closed on 3 sides to make it easier to maintain. And it doesn't need as much since there isn't the torque of a v8 in there stock. From my understanding, the key to a hard launch is to be able to transfer vehicle weight to the rear wheels as fast as possible. 4 link push and pull the frame up applying all weight from torque to the wheels. The torque arm is mounted to the front of the differential and as the nose of the diff rotates up it pushes the front of the car up applying the weight to the rear. My thought is that even though it is an irs, the diff still acts the same. Under hard acceleration, the nose of the differential launches upward. This is the reason for the strap over the diff and the reason the rubber mount under the differential separates. That being said, if I was 100% sure this would work, I wouldn't be asking here. My design thought is to remove all the mounting on the front and then have 4 pieces of angle iron bolted to the nose going to a torque arm on both sides of the drive shaft. This will also make it easy to make a drive shaft cage.
  24. 280 27 spline or CM stub axles wanted

    Upgraded to 300M stub axle's... No longer looking for anything else.
  25. Time based access TPSdot and ms pulse width

    Oh, I didn't realize that older versions of MS use a time-based PW adder instead of percent-based. All I know off the top of my head is that my car idles somewhere between 1.5 - 2ms, with 450cc injectors. Btw, why do you think percent-based is archaic?
  26. It looks like the prior owner had a wideband installed but he took it out. The probe and wire is still mounted to the header. The needles that are in the carbs are large (fat) compared to a cheap set I ordered and returned a few months back, didn't have any other needles to compare them to, but they were bigger than the needles that came in the cheap carb rebuild kit and the needle valves were bigger in my carbs than the ones that came in the cheap kit too.
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