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  2. jhill


    Looking for a lonewolf intake manifold or a custom substitute. Appearance is not a concern. Will pay the correct price for the part. Thanks guys!
  3. Yesterday
  4. seattlejester

    Saturn Electric Power Steering In A Datsun 280Z

    I'm following in socorob's foot steps. I think it would be appropriate to add things here. If you want me to make my own thread I'm happy to do so, but I think adding onto this may be useful. So some things I've found: That joint from woodward steering isn't really sold anywhere else. You have to order it through them, and they do not have an online store so you have to call them or e-mail them to order. Joint was $86.25. about $70 for the part and apparently the remaining was shipping. Not bad for the exact piece you need. The R18Z bearing is a 1-1/8 inch ID, 2-1/8 inch OD bearing. The R18 is the designation for the bearing dimensions the Z stands for single shield, 2Z or ZZ stands for double shield. They have a variant with I think R as in R18R which has a rubber seal instead of the metal shield. If you were being super correct about it you would probably order an R18 open, weld as needed, and then fill the bearings with grease and close it off with boots on both ends. Socorob also put in a butt load of work finding that exhaust pipe and part number. Strangely enough the 2-1/8th inch OD for the bearing makes finding a tube with an ID of a similar size very difficult to find. My local supplier has it in stock, but wants $20+ per foot. You can buy a thick wall tube of smaller diameter and use the correct bit to ream it out to 2/18 at the depth of the bearing and find a cap for a perfect fit, but most likely not worth the effort. You can order the 3/4 DD shaft in 18 inch length on amazon which seems almost perfect. The bruno controller can be purchased on ebay for $45 + 10$ shipping. I would suggest picking this up potentially soon if you have any thoughts. He seems to be populating/building a website and the prices are quite a bit higher at $85 for the basic controller. He also seems to be adjusting prices as some prices changed over the weekend. The website is epowersteering.com if I'm not mistaken. He also offers 3 options for just the controller: One is the basic kit with the separate potentiometer. Two is the advance kit which has a built in potentiometer. Three is the pro kit which has no potentiometer. This one apparently reads input and adjusts the assistance. In an e-mail conversation he suggested sticking with the basic kit for spirited driving. Most likely a savings over the advanced kit and the pro kit has a delay before reacting which may throw someone who is doing a quick correction off as the effort varies in say a fast chicane. Hoping to order the last of the parts and grab some columns tomorrow. I have a stock column that I'll be making a jig off of and using thanks to zetsaz
  5. Well I got it... After a full day of heating and working at it, I figured it out. I tried going at it with compressed air but that had no effect. My next to last Idea was to attack it with the grease gun. Napa has 10x1.00mm grease zerks (part number 715-2008) that I was able to mount on the ends. after attaching the grease gun to it and pumping it a few times, the plunger shifted. After that, I applied the blow torch and continued to pump with the grease gun until the end popped out sending burnt grease everywhere. it is now going to soak in the cleaner overnight again and tomorrow, I will clean up the bore and hopefully replace the seals. 77, DATSUN!!! (for real, make???), 280z 2+2.
  6. The windshield is the same AFAIK (I believe it uses a different seal, but the glass is identical). Essentially, everything 100% forward of the shifter is the same, as well as the entire driveline (minus prop shaft). Everything else (may be some exceptions) is 2+2 specific.
  7. neruve

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Well, mad props to you for trying to keep it affordable! The tacked kit would be awesome for your budget people like myself. I have several friends with TIGs. I'll definitely keep my eye on this thread. What are you using for the front setup. I have often though about just putting an SN95 strut/spindle in the front for 13" corbra brakes cheap. Just haven't gotten around to doing it yet.
  8. Most everything on the back half of the 2+2 is different. The windshield, doors, hatch rear quarters and all interior panels plus more. However, if you do buy it and want, I will take those parts off your hands for free.
  9. Home Built by Jeff

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    It took a lot longer than I had hoped, but I finally get the body work finished and get into painting some high fill.
  10. jhm

    Stock front sway bar - $20 USD!

    Sold. Thx to all who were interested. Admins can delete the post, if so desired.
  11. Invincibleextremes

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Well here's what I'm thinking, if I get all the bits, laser cut, tack them together using a jig I'll built so each piece is the same, and then have them professionally welded (Not by me) I'm looking at around 200 per upright and ballpark 500 for a complete cradle set up to use the factory 2015 mustang bushings. Now, but I can probably do drastically better than that for just a tacked together setup for the guys who trust their own welding... or want to have them welded by a friend of theirs etc. I can tack it all up in the jig and ship it out. Not 100% sure yet as I'm not sure on the amount of work it'll take, and the expenses of producing it all, but that's the idea.
  12. Robzzzz


    I have a few parts on Craigslist and was wondering what fair prices would be. A set of early doors with glass. A set of headlight buckets with mount/adjuster housings. Rear hatch with glass. Fuel injection manifold with fuel rail. Quarter windows with chrome frame. 4 SU round top carbs (3 screw type)
  13. Does anyone know how to disasimble these? I have tried everything that I know of, wd40, heat, soaking in paint thinner... I can't get the cone out that goes to the front in order to get the plunger out.
  14. NewZed

    R200 mustache bar..

    I have a bar but no bushings. It's used, from a 1978 parts car. Which side of WA are you on. Dry or wet? Edit - just noticed Walla Walla. So, shipping probably required.
  15. cgsheen

    Turn Signals - Key Off?

    Flashers do, turn signals do not.
  16. Curtball

    Tons of body kits for sale!!

    Do you happen to just have a g-nose lover valence?
  17. wallawallaacre

    R200 mustache bar..

    Looking for an R200 Mustache bar and Bushings..Anybody got one ?? Thanks in advance
  18. Sad to hear, seems like you were prepared and then it all went to the drain. But the car is running good now right? Nothing broke? The *only* thing you lost was the money for the dyno day?
  19. lowrider

    Wanted: Early 280Z (75-76) Gas tank

    I searched for one a few years ago and also a month or so ago to no avail. I built a surge tank instead. I've also seen people use Holley Hydramats in the bottom of the stock tank. talk about some pretty wild products..
  20. I'm still working on that question. I spent the last few weeks tamping down a long list of NHV issues- so many panels that were rattling. It meant I haven't driven it enough. But what driving I've done is encouraging. It's frighteningly fast, so much so that I need to put in traction control asap or all that power will be a waste. There's a funny oscillation effect that happens with this P/W ratio- if the car hits a bump, your foot can tip into the throttle a bit, given the throttle responsiveness, the car takes off, so you back off the throttle, and the car slows, causing your foot to tip into the throttle again. back and forth. crazy. I need to create more of a ramping to the throttle input since it's an electronic map. That will dampen the sensitivity at mid-throttle. I've experienced the same with a FF Cobra with a Coyote in it. Afa handling, the springs are too soft so those need to be replaced. Otherwise it feels balanced and controllable. I've yet to see how it handles a hard day at the track.
  21. yellowoctupus

    460ZGT Project Build

    I used the holes in the knuckle which are normally for the rotor dust shield, and I added a fourth hole for mounting to my new 'knuckle plate'. After boring out the center hole, I simply used a transfer punch to get the rest of the holes positioned in the steel plate.
  22. For my purposes only performance above 3500 is relevant. As it is now, more acceleration above 5000 is required so a cam change is next. At this time no other modifications are contemplated because all the indications are that the right cam/header combination should do the job.
  23. yellowoctupus

    460ZGT Project Build

    8.8 IRS Time.... Most parts in this build are from a '94 Mark VIII parts car I dragged home and stripped a few years ago. I used the engine for my supercharger mockup and kept the rear subframe for this project. The whole car was $300 (missing a transmission, no title) and I sold off about $800 worth of parts. So, parts are basically free at this point. You could probably get that whole subframe from a U-pull place for $200 I'd guess. They're relatively easy to pull, as long as none of the bolts that hold the subframe in are rusty or spin the nuts which are welded (blind of course) up in the unibody. Bring a battery sawzall with you, that would be my advice. Aluminum center section, 3.27 gears, open carrier. 28 spline - Mark VIII Hubs - Mark VIII, redrilled for Z pattern from wonky 5x4.25 Mark VIII pattern CV axle assembly, stock Mark VIII CV joints with custom length 300m axle shafts from the Driveshaft Shop. I was quoted $225 a piece (thankfully that's the only big $ item I had to buy, cause OUCH that's a lot of money for two pieces of metal...) I seriously considered making my own shafts out of 4340, but the strength would be way down (unless I also had them heat treated) and setup would be a pain, and I just don't have the time for a project like that right now. Crazy enough, they said they had the 15.75" shaft I needed IN STOCK. He said they basically stock these shafts from 14-30" in 0.25" increments. I meant to ask if they were used for other cars as well. I'm assuming they are, but it would be interesting to know. Struts - 2000 (1994-2004) Mustang Front Struts (they both have just over 6" travel, and are for a similar weight vehicle with a LOT of aftermarket options for coilovers, adjustable struts etc.) $35 shipped, eBay. (79-94 are very similar, and would probably work fine. 2005+ would be a pain as they have an OEM coilover setup that would not fit in the Z strut towers) The OEM struts I have have a body diameter of 2.015" (for coilover reference) Springs - Stock Z Top spring retainer, Z, redrilled to 5/8" for Mustang struts. Brakes, Rotors- Mark VIII Driveshaft - 1984-1996 (C4) Corvette Automatic. Aluminum, comes with 1310 joints. Shipped $39, eBay. Differential Cover/Rear Diff Mount - Stock Z Mustache Bar, Dr.Z Fabrication cover. (link) $65 shipped DIY kit. (Dr Z's unrelated to Datsun stuff, he does off-road parts.) Bearing Housing, brake caliper mount "Knuckle" - Mark VIII Knuckle + strut/suspension pivot piece. $50 in steel from local steel yard. (lots of work!) Would be about 500 times faster to make set #2 now that "I know what I'm doing". Front Differential Mount - tube steel, aluminum spacers and Jeep Cherokee sway bar bushings. Jeeps have a 1" sway bar, the Z suspension is 25mm. Close enough for now. Rear suspension coming out, about 2.5yrs ago. Guess it took a while before I dove in, huh? Stock picture from Dr.Z Fabrication's page. I had clearance issues on the outer ring itself, but I was able to grind the plate back. Post welding I also had to flatten out the gasket face on the mill. It would probably be worth just having them weld it up with all of the extra work I had to do to jig an mill it flat again. (Assuming they sent it to you properly flat, of course). Pre and Post OP Oh, and on the offchance that someone is wondering if you could jam a Mark VIII hub bearings into the Z spindle, yeah, you can't do it. All sorts of cavities and dimensions that will NOT play nice in the Z strut. That would have been cool though, right? Rockauto has the wheel bearings pictured below from $8 (generic) to about $25 for Timkens (OE), SKF $28. At 'full droop' the stock Z suspension has 3° positive camber. The distance from the top of the strut (measured above the rubber isolator) to the lower pivot point is 31". Although primitive, a wooden block set the height with a ratchet strap holding it tight worked well for the strut block positioning. Differential Mounting picture. I may have to reposition the front mount to above the differential as I think it might get in the way of the exhaust.
  24. rotsun777

    Stock front sway bar - $20 USD!

    interested, still for sale?
  25. You need a conversion flange or adapter on the wheel side to bolt the CV shaft to. The splined end will slide and clip in to your R200 diff, if you use a Datsun CV shaft. One choice you need to make is about the CV shaft. It's pretty well documented that the 300ZX CLSD shafts are too long. So if you choose that option you need to buy CV shafts also. Or you can try to find 280ZXT shafts, which seem to fit with no modifications. Or you can get Porsche 930 style CV shafts, but that requires a different conversion axle or adapter. In the end, after all of the money and time, you won't have much better strength or performance (smoothness) than the stock u-joint shafts. But many people do it. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://zcardepot.com/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61 http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun
  26. I'll say it again, find a shop with a Dynapack. No fussing with ignition pickups and they are very consistent. Always be ready for it all to go wrong!
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