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HybridZ
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  1. Today
  2. She's back on the road as of this past Saturday, as promised. I forgot how much of a pain it is to do a job like this on the driveway, but it ended with a driving car and a diff that feels better than ever! No more clunking and... a bit less whining. It seems the poly mustache bar bushes transmit a lot of whine, as the front diff mount is still OEM. Somehow though, the exhaust ended up a lot closer to the diff than I recall. The lack of clearance is audible. I'm planning to drop the exhaust and grind down the diff case. Other than that, she needs new tires, fresh engine and gearbox oil, and Keith's W65 jets need install and tuning. Oh, and I found that the rear ARB was clashing with the left RLCA. Since both RLCAs are the same part number, just flipped LH/RH, there is less clearance for the ARB on the left vs right sides due to the flange being on the topside of the arm. This will need some massaging. I'm afraid that by the time I'm "finished", the car will need another restoration. 😄
  3. Checking the wipe patterns beforehand more than offset your mistake.
  4. As long as I can get mine by June I am good. After that I am moving and don't want to have to work on the redirecting...
  5. Yesterday
  6. I would love to get my shirts, I am only no 7, 8 on the list. At this rate my son will probably outgrow the shirt I ordered for him :(. Any news?
  7. I will update as I progress and when my intercooler arrives. I am going to be running megasquirt with a zx dizzy. Still looking for an oil pump driveshaft from a turbo model if anyone is willing to sell and ship to West Chester, PA.
  8. Used some flex pipe up towards the turbo because it is rigid mounted. I thought it would be a good idea to give some room to twist so as not to fracture anything. The exhaust is a bit close to the starter and fuel lines. I plan on wrapping the exhaust with header wrap to keep the fuel lines and oil pan still “cool.”
  9. still trying to decide if I want to run the exhaust to the muffler beging the oil pan like the intake side is, or just run it under the trans.
  10. Hello all, finally a post without a question from me. I’m doing the turbo conversion on my 78 280, but I decided to make it difficult for myself and throw it on the passenger side. I also decided to use my MSA 3-2 NA headers because I like to nickel and dime :). Just thought I’d share how I’m making the passenger side mounts and the custom exhausting because I couldn’t really find much info on either topic. Get ready for a lot of pictures and feel free to offer advice.
  11. Last week
  12. looking for a turbo oil pump driveshaft. Located in west chester, PA. Willing to pay for shipping. Thanks!
  13. new front bolt on control arms available that make the 2014 mustang spindle swap a bolt on deal. green car also has baer brakes and he really likes them. the suspension picture isn't of the new arms, but is of the spindle swap in general. This particular car has modded stock arms. faded red car has the front spindle swap and the rear 2015 mustang hub and diff swap too.
  14. 175 mph back to back Class wins for Davids Blue 260z with a 434ci LSX running a half mile event. Terry's green car has over 1,000whp but turned down for pump gas it pulled a 1.3 60ft on a 6.0 @ 118 run for the 1/8 mile. his best so far has been 9.3 @ 150 mph in the 1/4 mile and 5.9 @ 126 in the 1/8.
  15. Take your time It’s just merch! You got more important things going on. Good luck my friend.
  16. If this happens regardless of speed or RPM, as you say, then I'm highly suspicious of your throttle linkage. Can you post a pic of your setup? If it's mechanical linkage, check for binding. If it's a throttle cable, I wonder if your lever ratio (length of carb throttle rod / cable throttle rod) is too aggressive. In other words, you may need a longer cable throttle rod.
  17. Finally had a chance to degrease the diff, reseal every joint, and pop in the Kameari stubs. I torqued the pinion nut to 135 ft-lb per this nifty blog article: https://inzane240.blogspot.com/2014/01/updated-info-on-subie-r180-install.html. Planned install is this Saturday! I've also ordered W65 idle jets from Keith Franck so hoping to have this car fairly dialed in for a mountain drive on the following Saturday.
  18. Fairly new to S30 life, so my apologies for any gaps in my knowledge; I've been lurking for awhile now to get up to speed. Recently picked up some 87mm ITM pistons for a rebuild for my '74 260. F54 block, N47 head (assuming the machine shop blesses it), with the right HG I will be targeting about 9.5:1 compression. Nothing too crazy, keeping it N/A and making some small tweaks for efficiency and fun, not going to break 200 hp. It's going to be a weekend and occasional road trip car - goals are a reliable, fun street build that MIGHT occasionally see a track day (but I wouldn't count on it). I've seen a host of older posts about ITM rings not being great, and Total Seal was recommended. The thing is, both Total Seal and ITM (based on the limited info I've been able to track down) seem to have iron rings. The ITM rings have some shiny coating (chromoly?) on the (outer) faces. So, since all of the posts I've found about ITM rings being 'not great' and suggestions to get Total Seal instead are in the 10+ year old category, I'm wondering if anyone has any recent experience or can make recommendations either between these two, or for a third option for good reliable rings.
  19. I made the same mistake setting my L28 rebuild I did in high school. I realized my mistake and Corrected it after having some noise on the drive home. It’s an easy mistake to make. Check the lash semi-regularly too. For a while after break-in I had one valve that would lose adjustment slowly until about 1,000 miles on the engine when it finally decided to stay where I set it.
  20. thank you. I'm planning on rebuilding the motor and doing something like a twin-turbo setup on it- hopefully after I bore the motor to 3.1l. Do you know (or think) this can be a relatively easygoing job?
  21. Life has been kicking my ass lately! Between my job changing significantly, being super sick, and some significant medical issues with my daughter I haven’t made the progress on shipping orders that I have wanted to. Post here if you’re really itching to get yours and I’ll move it to the top of my list. Otherwise I’m moving along as ordered. I’d like to get these wrapped up so I can transfer the remaining funds over to Dan.
  22. We’re going on track this Sunday at Willow springs Will set-up the car tomorrow at a friends shop since they have a flat-level garage floor (which I do not). Also in the middle of adapting the front brakes to 280zx rotor and caliper per EP spec-line. Caliper mounting on the strut assembly will require some welding and drilling, so it will have to wait till after this weekend. Greg Ira was nice enough to ship me some race pads he has that fit the OEM calipers.
  23. You're not the first and probably won't be the last to make that mistake!
  24. Has anyone seen or used the Prismalab/NRG GT seat in their S30 or other models? I'm not seeing many, if any reviews in my hunts for seats to fit my build but I'm liking the look and design of them.
  25. >I think you're mixing metric and English units. Totally possible, and I would be happy to declare that I am, in fact, an idiot! Standby for results.... **edit** Yes boys and girls, I AM an idiot. rossman, send me your next bar tab- It's on me....
  26. I think you're mixing metric and English units. Nissan spec is .008" and .010" (inches) cold. So you need to make the clearance smaller thus raising the post.
  27. Pull the cam out and get it reground to a more aggressive profile. You'll get more power (maybe) and more lash clearance. Win win.
  28. Ugh. This project has been on hold for a very long time, and now I'm getting somewhere, or so I thought. This is such an ugly issue that I'd like some input from you guys. After getting the engine started and getting ready for a test drive, I decided to check the valve lash. I've got about half of what I should have (0.016" measured v. 0.030" spec). I'm all the way down on the post- the lock nut is tight to the post. I've got the standard 0.120" pads in there. What I think happened is that the machine shop set the valves too deep. I was smart enough to not trust them, and I did a wipe test on each and every rocker. What they had sent back to me would have definitely self destructed. I've run the engine maybe 10h between break in and assorted testing. All the lobes and rockers look fine. So my question is "now what?" and I fear the answer is that I'm pulling that head and sending it out for a rework. Your comments are appreciated.
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