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  1. Past hour
  2. Exposed's 1jz Build

    I'm running an old set of 255/50/r16 BFG's and thinking about making a switch to the r888. Let me know how it goes for you!
  3. Today
  4. My 350 (probably) powered 260z!

    I found the issue last night! I no longer have bushings on my mustache bar! I've ordered a PU Master Bushing set, and 6 U Joints. I'm gonna go ahead and do all the bushings and U joints in the car soon so I'm done with that...
  5. I am still making the harness's. Although, I will be gone from MAY 1s to JULY 1st . The two current setups I have will be definitely done before then. I dont know if we can squeeze before then or not PM me when you are ready.
  6. Exposed's 1jz Build

    Some wheels need re-torquing I find.
  7. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    Is this a weight weenie build, or more just for kicks? Just asking since you started with the worst year you possibly could lol. Are the doors for a '78, or are they for the earlier cars? Given how heavy '78 doors are, I bet you lost a good amount of weight there. Surprised you didn't go with carbon bumpers + aluminum brackets as well. If you're looking for some more weight to lose, I'd suggest taking out the impact bumper supports. I plan to do that on my '76 chassis. I have a series one chassis that I want to strip down and weigh to compare against my bare '76 as well. Let us know what the final weight is, I'm very curious.
  8. L-series 6-speed Transmission Conversions

    Yeah, thanks for the tip! Seems like a good option too, just a bit overkill for the torque my engine's making (and I'm not so into cutting off the old tranny mounts etc.)
  9. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    Goodness your patience. Looks really clean though!
  10. Hi all, I just joined the forums. I bought a 77 280z a couple of days ago and I'm having trouble passing emissions. The previous owner installed a megasquirt EFI which wasn't really the issue during the test. However, some vacuum lines are missing. The EGR valve isn't connected to anything and the vacuum line diagram shows that I must have a BPT valve, which I don't. Would it be ok if I connect the EGR valve directly to the intake manifold? The other issue is the purge valve on the carbon canister isn't connected to anything either, form what I understand, it should be going into the throttle chamber where you can see that it's plugged in Thanks!
  11. Industry Garage 240z

    Their car isn't seeing the road anyway so side impact from another vehicle is highly unlikely. Especially in time attack. I'm currently building a carbon Z with cf doors and that was my first thought. Instant death if I were to get T-boned lol.
  12. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    Just wanted to share my Z now that it's finally back from the body shop! Meant to say 4 months for most of my front end instead of 6. Just camera shy and stuttered. Didn't realize it till editing ahaha. The car will be weighed very soon and we estimate about 200-225lbs removed including the stripping of the interior. What else are you guys doing to your Z's to shed weight? This car has more carbon than Rocky Autos Z that was featured on Speedhunters some years back. And I haven't even ordered my dash yet!
  13. Holset HX35W Turbo Setup For Sale

    This fit into a 78? I have a 280zx with power steering, curious if ir might fit.
  14. I think I posted in the wrong section,
  15. I think I posted the write up in the wrong forum,
  16. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    I think out of the three, the hammer is the only worth while option. The floor material is fairly thin, so it doesn't bend that hard, but the bends it has are pretty sharp, some of which are bead rolls. If your floors and frame are in good shape, I'd actually just make up a sheet metal piece out of the same thickness to connect your current rails to the rear subframe. Not that I'm an expert, but I'm not really convinced that thicker metal is needed here, I think simply connecting the front to the back will be plenty. I think your roll bar is going to do far more for stiffness than the subframe will if done right. Look up John Coffey's suggestions for chassis reinforcement on a street car.
  17. Hi, My current 280zx is very rusty, I found a shell that has much less rust. Would you consider this being low on rust? The passenger frame rail looks the worst: Driver floorpan has rust Driver side frame rail looks better: These are the spots I could find.
  18. Hi, The 280ZX 79-81 brakes are not great, they might stop OK but I have had some quality issues on my race car. It's also a pain to replace pads. Oddly the high quality wilwood pads are also cheaper than aftermarket race pads, so in the long run this will save you money A word of warning: - I believe this only works on 79-81 - This will remove your handbrake - Piston area is about the same but this might change brake bias, not sure how it affects your car - The pad will overhang the end of the rotor by ~1.5mm. This might cause noise. - The caliper will not be centered over the rotor. This means that piston might extend more than designed for when pads are completely worn (Rotors are 0.36-0.37" thick. Caliper rotor max is 0.38" min rotor is 0.25". So from the pistons perspective it's the same as I running with a rotor being 0.015" below minimum disc diameter when the pad is completely worn out.). Don't run your pads until they are completely gone. - Make sure you get the correct adapter. A M10x1 non-Metric inverted flare is not the same thing as Metric inverted flare. They have different angles on the flare. Also make sure no to get bubble flare. This is what's needed: - 2x Wilwood Billet DynaPro Calipers 120-9689 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-120-9689) - 2x M10x1 Metric Inverted flare to NPT adapter ( https://www.flyinmiata.com/npt-to-metric-flare-adapter.html) 1. Remove the old caliper.Fit the new caliper and you will now see 2 things that needs to be fixed. a, There is a tiny ridge on the strut that needs be removed (dremel works well) b. The caliper mounting holes are off a tiny bit. Grind away some material in either top or bottom mounting hole on the caliper. 2. (Optional) To solve the issue with caliper not being center you can either make the caliper mounting area thinner or reduce the thickness of the hub mounting holes. I didn't do this step. 3. Screw in the adapter into the caliper and then screw in your brake line into the adapter. You might want to add a brake hose or pull the hard line. For the front I would recommend Silverminemotors 300zx brake swap, affordable and easy. I bought the proportion valve from Flyin Miata and replaced the stock with that.
  19. 280Z Garage Sale

    Sorry for the delay but no longer have the car.. Ken
  20. Hi, On my 280zx I have 15x10 4.5 BS with 245 Maxxis VR-1 tires. I have about a pen clearance between strut and wheel on the fronts. No rubbing so far, sure it sticks out like crazy. These are the wheels I got, https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bassett-50ST4B-15X10-D-Hole-Lite-4-on-4-5-4-Inch-BS-Black-Beaded-Wheel,72130.html
  21. Hi, On my 280zx I have 15x10 4.5 BS with 245 Maxxis VR-1 tires. I have about a pen clearance between strut and wheel on the fronts. No rubbing so far, sure it sticks out like crazy. These are the wheels I got, https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bassett-50ST4B-15X10-D-Hole-Lite-4-on-4-5-4-Inch-BS-Black-Beaded-Wheel,72130.html
  22. WTB P90 Head

    Hi Geez, after thinking it over I'm going to try selling all my parts locally. Alot less hassle and everything is up front. Thanks,
  23. PLEASE keep mking theese as my l28ET swap project is on hold as I got laid off... Once my new job is under way I will be ordering form you!
  24. Rear end upgrades

    Well got everything pulled apart which wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Took about 4 hours to get both companion flanges pulled off, and the differential dropped. Cutting the stub shaft bolt wasn't as bad as I thought, 10 min with a drimal per side while spinning the disk break to get a nice cut all around. To replace the nut, since I do not have a nissan dealer near by, I went to Napa and the parts guy went back with my 20x1.5 nut and 15min later came back with one for some 4x4 vehicle (part number in photo). After welding everything up with 7013 rods on my home made welder (yes, home made) I am 100% sure these will hold without a problem. With the diff out, I went about cleaning. By the looks of it, the oil was never changed (300k miles). Thick as mud and took forever to drain but I got it emptied and cleaned. Took it to the car wash to get the road grime off then Al's cleaner from doller tree (very cheap degreaser) and brake cleaner. Worst part of it all was removing the carrier bearings form the old unit and then putting them on the new one. Luckly I had the perfict size socket (1-11/16) to assist with the reinstalling of the bearing. Only things left now (that I see) is c clip instal (can't get the old ones out) and painting (waiting on an order of phosphate acid to clean the rust off). Then it will be time to reinstall everything.
  25. Yesterday
  26. Need R200 side stubs

    I have a pair. 818 298-2549.
  27. Restoring post from symbol breakage
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