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  2. ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

    That's amazing how rust free your car is. Mine is literally about to fold in half, but it's on the road and I'm having fun. Any reason you went with the short nose r200 instead of a longnose or a ford 8.8?
  3. Today
  4. Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Alrighty, so after doing some reading, LOTS of reading, I have decided I am developing an end all, be all ultimate super 8.8 swap. The key features of THIS setup are as follows. -bolt on 2015 mustang hub assembly. No more $$$$ stub axles prone to breaking. -bolt on 2009 subaru coilover strut, buy cheap or buy ultra nice, entirely up to you. -bolt on s30 rear lower control arms... again use stock, or nice pieces like Arizona Z car etc, your choice. -will have stock 2015 mustang brake mounting points. We're talking disc brakes with built in parking brake in the caliper, and take off brakes for less than $200. There is a plethora of brake available for these cars, including Baer brakes drag setup that lets you use 15 inch wheels for sticky slicks on drag nights. -3.15, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 or 4.09 gears And limited slip torsen differentials for $262 to $700 dollars for complete low mileage units. Super 8.8 much stronger than the 8.8 of yesteryear. -800 hp 930 cv axles COMPLETE for $1,299 for the pair. 34 spline into the diff and 32 at the hub. No more stub axles, companion flanges, or custom diff axle stubs or adapter needed. This price was quoted to me today from the "Driveshaft shop". I contacted them about custom length 2015 mustang axles and that's the price they gave me. -rebuildable cv joints, you only have to buy the custom axles once, and rebuild them as needed for much much cheaper. This setup could easily be adapted to use the 2002 and up explorer 8.8 but that would require asking the driveshaftshop to make you custom 31 spline axle stubs instead of the 34 spline ones they include in the $1299 price. This is something I am building for myself. But if anyone wants some I will gladly make extras. I'm just blown away at the prices of things for our Z cars, and decided to bring something to market that would potentially benefit the guys who want something more than oddball custom for stupid money. Aside from the custom length 930 cv axles EVERYTHING is off the shelf cheap and strong parts. Cheap brakes, cheap bearing hubs, cheap differentials, cheap limited slip. And so on. Also, I am designing a front disc brake setup as well. The idea is to use all 4 disc brakes off a 2015 mustang for balanced and affordable braking. It'll require a 17 or 18 inch wheel, but the guys running 800hp turbo is engines or 2jz swaps are usually already there anyway... If you have any better suggestions for a strut I'm open to ideas.
  5. Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.
  6. I should be receiving the backorders on Sunday or Monday and will ship ASAP. Next round will have some vetting of their available inventory. I never expected such issues with the printer's supply chain! That's awesome to see a roadkill signed hoodie! I bet it was fun to see the car in person.
  7. OK, So heres what im dealing with right now. My rb20 is having some weird issues running, Idle is good at a 14.7 AFR but under load/driving is where I get problems. Upon initial acceleration or low rpm`s the engine has little power and runs like its missing a cylinder or two with afr`s dipping into the 10`s then as boost comes on it runs normal for a bit like it should with afr`s towards 12-13`s and as the rpm`s raise and I hit full boost it will sputter and pop as it leans all the way out untill my wideband cant go any higher (18+ afr`s). So far I have checked everything manually and also through nistune and I still cant figure it out. Here is my current setup: Stock RB20DET and stock turbo Z32 MAF Nistune chipped ECU RB26 444CC injectors (and resistor wired into the harness) Walbro 255 fuel pump Nismo FPR AEM Wideband I have checked the timing and its at 15 deg. Fuel pump has good power and ground. All injectors are opening/closing. All coilpacks work (I pulled them with the plugs and spun the CAS to double check). ECU dosent pull any codes. Fuel pressure isn`t dropping off. TPS voltage is good. Plugs look good and are gapped to the reccomended .8, The MAF readings look linear and accurate from what I can tell through nistune. If I go into nistune and bump up the fuel it just runs richer in the lower rpm`s and still leans out and pops. The only things left I can think of is a bad MAF, Low voltage to the pump under boost, A bad ignitor for the coilpacks, or possibly a bad CAS or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I dont know what else I should check at this point lol.
  8. Best twinscroll manifold?

    I should have my twin scroll manifold coming shortly from Cindertrackfabrication, I`ll let you know how good it is when I get it.... not sure when that will be though as it has already been about 5 months over the 2-3 week time frame I was told. Cant say anything about the quality yet but I can say for sure they have terrible costumer service with no updates, no time frames, and even being told it was "almost ready" then later told it was just started on.
  9. 240z Rear Beaver Panel

    Hey Guys, So first thing first, I am Australian, meaning I will need this panel sent to Australia Now, the part... I am looking for a rust free (well, I'll consider anything :P) rear beaver panel as we aussies call it. Mine was poorly repaired and rusted out. This panel does NOT need to be NOS, it could be from your parts car/crashed car/etc. I'm pretty flexible on price, so please let me know what price you're looking for. Cheers, Rickers
  10. What's the latest Andy?
  11. Tim's 302Z

    Oh, and TC buckets went back in. They'll be tied into the frame rails longitudinally later on.
  12. Tim's 302Z

    Making the upper radiator support removable. I HATE the wiggle of getting an engine and transmission out of an engine bay. Should have used some wider metal so I wouln't have to worry about the gap at the front but I'll address that later. Trimmed and ground tabs, it's reasonably flush now.
  13. Tim's 302Z

    Then I made a new radiator lower support bracket to accommodate the larger Howe radiator I'll be using, and strengthen the area for the next step...
  14. Tim's 302Z

    I drilled two sets of cross member and sway bar mounts, the second set 1" further forward from stock... Should I ever decide to push for high caster angles - not exactly sure why i'd do that, I think I read it on blueovalz's build and said to myself "well gee Tim, since you're here... drill the extra holes." All the various pieces started going back together.
  15. Tim's 302Z

    At which point I realized I fucked up and cut the main length too short, the riser to the engine bay rails would protrude 1.5 inches into the cabin, hitting the throttle pedal. So, had to extend it out. Added in the extension at a point on the length where I thought it would see the least stress - around the seat mounts which I was planning on redoing out of tube too.
  16. Tim's 302Z

    And then I went AH **** IT at which point the car went from "get back driving and not immediately die" to "time to get not shitty at fabrication and build a car to a level you haven't done before." I've done a dozen engine swaps, rewires, fuel systems... but never this much metal work. Made a jig to locate TC buckets and made the main floor rails out of 2x3 .125 IIRC. Lots of time spent getting things level in an unlevel garage, measuring, making sure things are as square as possible. Lots of mocking up, looking at it for a few weeks, a couple tack welds, adjust...look...think...undo...redo..think...drink beer... From the time I started cutting the rotten frame rails out to the time they were fully welded in was a bit over a year.
  17. Tim's 302Z

    Floor boards before I wised up and cut everything out. Even bought Bad Dog frame rail reinforcements...
  18. Tim's 302Z

    At first, began tearing it down. Thought I could redo the floors, and patch the necessary areas of rust in the engine bay and frame rails. Eh... not so much.
  19. I plan on swapping a 2JZ GTE VVTI into my 1978 Datsun 280Z. My goal is to hit 500hp, nothing crazy and plenty of power for that car. I was thinking of using a Garrett GTX3071R 2nd gen or a GTX3076R 2nd gen. For my power goals these are plenty and spool up really quick. A video I saw on YouTube showed a 2JZ swapped 240sx hitting 509hp on 20PSI with 264 cams and pump gas and full boost at 3300rpm. Since I plan on using a CD009 out of a 350Z and the differential from a Q45 which is 3.54, my gears aren't going to be super tall so I would rather have something more responsive. Regarding the ECU, I was thinking of going with the ECUMasters EMU Black. Mainly because of their PMU-16 which would replace relays and fuses: http://www.wiringspecialties.com/ecu-master-pmu16-power-management-unit/ My other option was to go with a switch board from Speedwire Systems: http://speedwiresystems.com/listings.../turbo-systems Not really sure which is best. As far as injectors go, I heard that FID are widely used in the Supra community but I was also recommended Deatschwerks ID1000. Someone also recommended Evolved Injection but I was later told to stay away as they are a 2 piece injector. Looking for feedback here regarding their pros/cons. Also debating between 850cc or 1000cc. I also read that on a VVTI a DBW throttle body acts as IACV (idle air control valve). I need confirmation on this. Driftmotion sells a Universal Remote Mount Idle Speed Control. Then there is the question of coils. I was planning on going with IGN1A coils: https://induction-performance.myshopify.com/collections/supra-electronics/products/induction-performance-ign1a-coil-kit?variant=30079419329 But was recommended LQ9 coils which I heard some people have issues with at high HP, so they should be fine for me since I plan on keeping it in the 500hp range. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much for taking the time to read this.
  20. Looking for some feedback on my plans. Current setup: F54/P90 280zx and turbo Megasquirt 2 - 440cc injectors Evo 8 intercooler 14psi 3" exhaust Goals - 300-350HP Use - 95% street car, with 1 track day per year Due to too many car projects and minimal car space I need to minimize the non-driveable cars. In order to do this I wanted to use the spare block that came with car when I bought it. I had it cleaned and inspected. It is an N42 block, the engine builder stated everything was in great shape except the rod journals that need .25mm to get back to in print clearances. He has suggested re-using the pistons that came out of the block given their good condition and has given me the part number for some Hastings piston rings for the NA block as a recommendation. Questions: Is there an issue with using the dished NA N42 Pistons with NA piston rings for the horsepower I'm looking for? Car seen here: and
  21. Yesterday
  22. Sakura Garage Stance USA Coilover Kit

    He was on zcar.com a few days ago. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/412105-brake-issues.html Does the @ function work on Hybridz? @NewZed @AlbatrossCafe Yours looks wrong. @cgsheen
  23. vintage air drain hose

    No problem. Just keep a wet vac in the trunk and suck your carpets dry every couple of days. I drilled a hole in the tunnel and ran the hose through there with about 1" sticking out under the car. Just make sure the hose always runs downhill.
  24. vintage air drain hose

    how bad would it be to leave the drain hose out of the instal? haha
  25. vintage air drain hose

    yikes i think the person that mounted the evaporator in the car might not have considered that there was a drain and it might be sitting on it....grrrrr thank you for the pics! theyve been super helpful!
  26. Sakura Garage Stance USA Coilover Kit

    Anyone heard from these guys in the last month? @cgsheen Their web site has been down for a couple weeks, I have not gotten any email response, and calling them yields no success (plus their voicemail "has not been set up" so I can't leave a message). I ordered coilovers a little over a month ago that I'm waiting on, so I was curious to get a status update... or at least to confirm that my order/money has not gone by the wayside....
  27. You ever have the feeling with these car projects, that you are working your ass off but getting nowhere....or even going backwards? I got tired of stitch welding the body shell(mind numbing PITA of a job, far worse than I expected), and I got the rest of my diff parts from Japan, so I was hoping to finish setting up all the diff parameters and buttoning it up...you know....so something was "done". As anyone who has done this knows, it involves a ton of assembly and disassembly checking bearing tension, backlash, and gear contact pattern. Well, the last time I was taking it apart, one of the carrier bearing cap bolts decided to gall/seize in the threads in the casting. Not sure why...I had the bolts lubed...but it did. I managed to get the bolt out, but it took massive force and took all the female threads in the diff case out with it. I figured, minor setback. Timeserts have saved my ass many times in the past, and they are nearly idiot proof....so I plunked down almost $100 on a M12/1.50 Timesert thread repair kit. Timesert went in like always, I was feeling good about myself, and all that. But when I went to thread in the bearing cap bolt, it became apparent that somehow I managed to drill out/tap the damaged diff threads crooked. So, of course, the Timersert went in crooked. You can't tell from the pictures, but the Timesert is roughly 5-10 degrees "off" from perpendicular to the rear diff cover sealing surface. So far off, that the bolt contacts the casting and will not thread in. So basically, my carefully prepped and painted diff case was toast. As I said, Timeserts are pretty much idiot proof, and I managed to f*** it up. It was a proud moment. Fortunately, I managed to find another 300ZX diff online for a decent price (sort of), got it dismantled today.....and ready to begin round two. I sure have an embarrassing pile of smelly/nasty diff internals lying around the shop. Can't get rid of them yet....don't know what else I might manage to f*** up. This time...I'm not going to bother painting it until I have everything set up and ready for final assembly.
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