Jump to content
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. The high output ign driver is generally installed in Q16, top left corner of your pic, or this pic as I've modified points out: Looking up that printed part # brings up exactly this issue. Bosch doesn't label them BIP373, but that's indeed likely the part. Also, all the metal backed transisters are likely high current drivers of some sort, be it injector or something else. You can reference this v3.0 board assembly manual to validate parts to locaitons: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm Glad I could help, hopefully.
  3. Yesterday
  4. supernova_6969

    280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    Wow. I keep email after email notification about my thread.... Thanks for all the posts, and gollum, again, you engine bay looks wicked... And the dash, well she might never win beauty contests but! I'd much rather work on your set up than any others!!!! And it's not ugly, it just has more function than form.... However! I must call things to order for a few posts! Gollum: you say i have a bip 373 installed already??? If i'd built it, i'd know it inside and out but not only didn't i build it, I didn't even orser/buy it (previous owner). I'll have to check it out, now i want to know where the bip 373 is at, and if it's set up properly (i'll see if the msextra manual calls for modifications or jumpers to make it work)... If we're (well, i'm) in business, i'll have to figure what the other wires conected to the ignitor module do, and if i can simply delete it all... Man, you've given me hope for a potential inexpensive fix... Well if the ignitor system is broken (for all my luck, it might be fully functionnal and my problem is something else). Ill keep you guys posted..... S.
  5. Fuse panel donated from a 83 turbo. Panel is from an aluminum computer case. Front switch panel is from a macbook pro case.Switches, loads, and grounds bundled together through common terminal blocks (grounds are tired together using a home electrical box style ground strip). Obviously a bit messy inside, which will get sorted to some degree, but my main goal was trace-ability and being able to work on it without breaking my back. Whole sections can be diagnosed easily as systems and/or removed as units. You can see I used aluminum flex conduit to do my runs to main sections of the car, which makes it relatively easy to pull/repull entire runs. Feel free to call it ghetto, you can see I obviously care.
  6. turbogrill

    280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    I removed every wire and every electrical gizmos (ECU relays etc). Saved 25lbs! Please show me your dash, I also redid every wiring with Megasquirt and custom "fusebox". But still looks like crap. Need some inspiration.
  7. Have you seen my dash? I have almost zero factory wiring left, chassis or engine...
  8. turbogrill

    280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    Got it! Looks great, not sure why I have 1000000000000000000000 more wires than you going all over the place.
  9. Mike Mileski

    350 to 5.3 Swap

    Maybe you could use these? http://www.ictbillet.com/engine-swap-bracket-chevy-sbc-ls-conversion-motor-mount-adapter-adjustable-plate-ls1.html Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  10. So demanding! That pic is a little out of date, by a few days. I've since gotten it running, with no small amount of cursing. Amazingly though, all my wiring was correct from the get go! And my tooth settings were all correct, though the suggest #1 degree provided by diyautotune was.... about 50 degrees off. I'm amazing it started on that timing. I still haven't finalized all the wiring yet, hence why you can tell in that pic the injector wiring isn't taped up yet, as there's a lot that still needs to be added to that loom. My MS Relay box is mounted on the passenger side fender well, so all the sensor wires will follow around the engine up to there. The MAP hose (using onboard MAP sensor) runs through the firewall on the driver side. For the trigger wheel I actually reused the stock 83 turbo dizzy wiring, and it's just long enough to make the trip over to the relay box. I haven't wired in oil pressure, yet. I might end up trying to find a pressure + temp oil gauge that works with the factor nissan block outlet and such. Air temp I mounted on the J pipe where the stock PCV inlet goes. I put the IAT there because that's thin walled pipe, and should offer much less heat soak and faster response times. As-is I used an open element sensor to try to get faster readings. As for the alternator, I just finished wiring that the day before yesterday. First starts were actually on battery only. Once I killed the battery I took the short downtime to recharge the battery a bit and make my alternator harness. It exists completely outside of my EFI harness as it's own stand alone wiring run.
  11. seattlejester

    Turbine size matters

    A couple tweaks and changes makes a pretty big difference, the SX-E model of the SX turbo which in theory has the same 7670 profile with a 1 mm bigger compressor inducer and a billet wheel can flow almost 10 more CFM. I'd have to run the numbers to really get a good visual of the change, but a mm or two makes a huge difference when you add it to the outer diameter.
  12. turbogrill

    280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    That is very clean! jealous!! IS that the complete harness??? - Where is your alternator wires? - Where is your map wires? - Where is your airtemp sensor wires? - Where is your oilp or oil temp wires? - Where is your trigger wheel wires?
  13. OverkillZ

    the start of the B.customs Z has begun..2jz 1000hp

    You’ll do just fine on a stock bottom end at those numbers.
  14. bimmota

    280z Ford 4.6L Mod Motor

    I pulled the trans all apart, shift forks a surprising in good shape all the gears look good. The synchros are all toast no grab in any of them. Broke the synchro keys, and had a input shaft bearing failure. Waiting on parts now.
  15. I purchased all my materials but haven't begun fab yet. My plan is dual 2.5 using: JTR/Sanderson headers, long tubes would make more power, but I just don't have much room. X-pipe (If it fits, if not, h-pipe). MARMAN FLANGE - from ebay, they are a more forgiving V-band. Sort of like a ball flange meets a V-band. Dual Hooker Max Flow mufflers. Modified, I cut them apart and made them a bit a smaller. I have no idea how they will sound, I imagine a bit louder, but they are fairly quite (see muffler test data below) Speedway motors hangers (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/SS-Exh-Hangers-Weld-On,184894.html) I intend on trying to leave space to add cats or a resonator if the car has too much LS rasp. Again, I haven't built anything yet, so I don't REALLY know what I am talking about. I hope to get to it later next month. Muffler Test All tests via an independent labAll tests @ 15” wc2 “ Straight Pipe 283 CFM2 ¼ “ Straight Pipe 365 CFM2 ½ “ Straight Pipe 521 CFM2 ¼” Typical Bent tailpipe 268 CFM2 ½” Typical Bent Tailpipe 417 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFMSame as above set for reverse flow 141 CFM2 ¼” Cherry Bomb 239 CFM2 ½” Cherry Bomb 294 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Dynomax Super Turbo 278 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Ultraflow Bullet 512 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Gibson Superflow 267 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Flowmaster ( 2 Chamber) 249 CFM2 ½” Inlet Outlet Flowmaster ( 3 Chamber) 229 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet Thrush CVX 260 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Maremount Cherry Bomb 298 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Aero Chamber 324 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Max Flow 521 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Borla Turbo 373 CFM2 1/2" Inlet/Outlet Magnaflow 284 CFMStandard OEM 2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet 138-152 CFMStandard OEM 2 ½” Inlet/Outlet 161-197 CFMThe madrel bending of the pipes done by aftermarket exhaust companies is good for 2-4 h.p. depending on the severity of the stock bends. Most local exhaust places dont have a mandrel bender so changing the pipes out doesnt do anything if pipe size it not increased.My opinion, if its more noise and a little more power just add the best flowing stainless muffler to the current system and never do it again. If you increase pipe sizes, then a local shop and only stainless. Dont care about money but want ease and better gains than most local shops can offer with no pipe size increase, and aftermarket exhaust.NOISE does not mean power, some think it does is why Flowmasters are sold in the numbers they are!!! Thought I would add this review too.The results in HP order: 1.Flowtech Warlock (open) 374.2 hp/ 333.1 tq 2.Bassani Real Street 373.7 hp/ 333.8 tq 3.Hooker Maxflow 373.5 hp/ 333 tq 4.Borla XS 373.3 hp/ 332.6 tq 5.Magnaflow 372.8 / 332.5 tq 6.MAC 372.3 hp / 331.5 tq 7.Flowtech Afterburner 372.3 hp/ 330.1 tq 8.Hooker Aerochamber 372.1 hp/ 330.4 tq 9.Bassani 372 hp/ 333.5 tq 10.Spintech 371.6 hp/ 332.2 tq 11.Edelbrock Performer RPM 370.9 hp / 331.3 tq 12.Borla XR1 370 hp/ 334 tq 13.Flowtech Terminator 369.5 hp / 331.3 tq 14.Dynomax Ultra Flo 369.4 / 333.2 tq 15.Flowmaster 369.4 hp / 331.8 tq 16.Flowtech Warlock 366.3 hp / 325.3 tq 17.No muffs 365.2 hp / 330.1 tq Sound Off in Quietest to Loudest (Decibels): 1.Borla XS, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 110db at WOT. 2.Hooker Maxflow, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT. 3.Magnaflow, 82db at idle, 91 at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT. 4.Flowmaster, 82db at idle, 93 at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT. 5.Flowtech Warlock, 83db at idle, 92 at 2,000 rpm, 112db at WOT. 6.Dynomax UltraFlo, 83db at idle, 94 at 2,000 rpm, 113db at WOT. 7.Borla XR1, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT. 8.Bassani Street, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT. 9.Edelbrock RPM, 84db at idle, 93db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT. 10.Bassani Real Street, 84db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db). 11.Flowtech Afterburner, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT. 12.Flowtech Terminator, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT. 13.Hooker Aerochamber, 87db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT. 14.SpinTech, 87db at idle, 97db at 2,000 rpm, 116db at WOT. 15.MAC, 87db at idle, 98db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT. 16.No Muffler, 91db at idle, 103db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db). http://forums.stangnet.com/archive/index.php/t-392314
  16. Gollum

    Vacaville Velo Rossa

    Dude, progress is looking great! Keep at it, and keep a fireline around that property!
  17. So I assume by now you realize you have the BIP 373 installed I'd just run directly off that, no external ignition box. I'd do that simply to have "easy" wiring. ...says the guy with all the wires... And since I teased in my last post:
  18. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    I'll just leave that here.
  19. lowrider

    Leon's Other 260Z

    I'm working in Solidworks, so a step, parasolid, or Solidworks part file will all work. The Step or SW Part file would be preferable. When ever you get the file, my email is: [email protected] That's awesome that you have access to a 3d scanner! That would make life so much easier when trying to model pieces that have complex shapes!
  20. Thanks for all the great advice so far. My old school tendencies had me thinking dual all the way back was the way to go, but it looks like I'll be returning some parts to Summit.
  21. Hi all, I had an interesting result on the dyno recently. Years ago I made 455 rwhp @ 27psi boost with my old non-ball bearing customized T4/T3 hybrid. It had a small .50 compressor housing with a 3" inlet and what Innovative called a GT58 wheel. The hot side was a T350 stage V wheel with a .63 housing. I recently upgraded to a very expensive dual ball bearing GTX3576R with a 4" inlet and a Tial vband .63 housing. Nothing else changed on the engine. I like the quick spool so I stuck with a .63 turbine housing. The new turbo made 382rwhp and was done at ~22psi. Adding more boost did not raise HP. That is a 73hp difference. On a modern engine like in an EVO or STI, my GTX3576R turbo could support close to 600HP. Obviously my old L6 can't flow enough air. What I learned is that the old turbine wheel has a 71mm Inducer/62mm Exducer @ 76 trim. The GTX3576R turbine wheel has a 68mm Inducer/62.3 Exducer @ 84 trim so a bit smaller. Another interesting point is that the new ball bearing turbo had a mirror image dyno curve to my new turbo up to 4500rpm or so. The myth that a ball bearing turbo spools sooner is not true, at least with my engine. I am amazed that the slightly smaller turbine wheel caused the 73HP drop. I may try a .82 housing and see if that helps although I am confident it will add turbo lag. -John
  22. Redwine automotive

    Custom Exhaust Build Questions

    ,I am using a stock 2008 LS3 and at the exhaust stage now. I will be running 2.5 into a Jone's Exhaust chambered Y, 3" single with an auger in the pipe and Magnaflow 3 chamber muffler. Should have it done next weekend and will report back.
  23. I have a JWT set up. Yes it never starts on the first try cold. you do need the dropping resistors for the low impedance injectors. The BOV needs to recirculate and not go into the atmosphere. There needs to be at least 6" on either side of the maf so pipe in front of the turbo and before the air filter. It does run rich but then there's not really much tuning. I run about a 14psi and it's a lot of fun
  24. Last week
  25. rturbo 930

    Series 1 240z paint color options/opinions

    Yeah, a good respray will make it look a lot nicer, of course, it's just that you'd be selling to a slightly different market than a respray in the original color, and likely for a little less money as well. But no doubt it'll make the car a lot nicer, and an OE color will be better than an aftermarket color.
  26. grannyknot

    How to remove black oil spot from the seat!!??

    I have a can of Brakekleen and the old seat covers I just replaced so maybe I'll rub some grease into them and then try to get it out, I'll post some pics. Brakekleen smells exactly like the old dry cleaning fluid they used before it was banned.
  27. 5 Star Rising

    Series 1 240z paint color options/opinions

    I have had 12 S30 Z car's in the past, but this is my first early car and I plan on keeping her a long time, but you never know when life makes you sell things you don't want too. I think a nice re spray will go along way. Dents and dings all over the car currently being worked out but not much rust issues thank goodness. Should come out great even though it's not a full paint redue. Got the car 3 years ago for next to nothing, so a nice paint job should make a world of difference in the value of what I got into it. But at the end of the day it's not for sale. Going to be my prize ride. It's looking like 904 might be the paint..
  28. joey.youssef

    2.5" vs. 3" comparison

    Very generous of you Leon.... I'll let you know.
  1. Load more activity