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  1. Today
  2. DespicableZ

    280z 302 sbf swap

    I'm getting closer to driving mine. Turbo 302 out of a 93 GT, e-cam, Fitech efi on a 4 bbl carb manifold. Working ignition and ??? Wiring bugs out that are causing the efi to wig out and kill it. Curiously mostly when hot. Nice to see other folks going down the non-ls road. 302 bits, and the T5s are pretty cheap and the $500 engine/ecu/3.75 spd trans combo was tough to beat.
  3. Dat73z

    Triple Blowthrough Turbo

    Thanks madkaw, who did you get your spray bar from? I think I got this from Brian at ZCC years ago. Good call on testing the spray pattern first. I will do that once I have the rest of the oiling system buttoned up.
  4. madkaw

    Triple Blowthrough Turbo

    I would thorough test that spray bar with oil pressure. My experience was the squirt holes were misaligned . Just drive the oil pump with a drill and watch to make sure oil is going where you want .
  5. Dat73z

    Triple Blowthrough Turbo

    Had a couple mins tonight and started mounting a new oil spray bar I had for a long time. My old one was held together by silicone. Surprised the valvetrain looks so great- that Walmart special Rotella T6 puts in work.
  6. tamo3

    260z - Part Identification

    Was your car an automatic?
  7. Hussein, I love Street Banditos....great channel (the editing is top notch). My boys at Team Boosted.... Devan and JP are awesome dudes (The Datsun will be down in San Diego when finished with Team Boosted). I may be hitting Sema up with them this year (working logistics). I will be there for sure. I want to check out the Bisforbuild car done by Chris. This youtube thing is not easy by any means..... I only work on the build in spare time and filming and editing just consumes so much of my time. I am really enjoying the process and learning along the way. My introduction video will be released in a few weeks....should be awesome. I have my good buddy Andrew from Diesel Media doing a cinematic intro video of Hell-Z. I am in Ottawa area a few times a year....one of my favorite places to visit. Jeff
  8. Thank you for the support Arif
  9. Yesterday
  10. Realized I never posted this pic of SN005. The Ferrea rockers look amazing. Jenvey 48mm and a Megasquirt setup from Linfert Performance.
  11. Thanks. Yea the S7 looks so nice. The 8620 looked great with the copper plating but not so great after spending time in hot oil. The best part about the S7 is it's through hardened so as long as there is enough base circle you can regrind it.
  12. Those S7 cams look money. Along with everything else obviously.
  13. superduner

    MSA l28ET Downpipe S30

    Far stretch given how old this is lol not sure whether or. Not you still have it but if you do I'm interested
  14. Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Spend a lot of time planning and costing the project system by system before starting the build. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness. The owner is a HybridZ member who provides electrical upgrades and repair services. http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
  15. rockford

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    Thank you chelle, I had been experiencing challenges signing in, hopefully this is resolved. Hope to hear back, thanks for your help.
  16. It's an old car that looks cool. Some people buy them just to have them in the garage, and never actually drive them. If you're looking for a daily driver, read through the many threads on this site to see what's involved in keeping them running. Looks like you should plan on having two cars for a while. Ideally, the other will be a truck so that you can haul parts, like engines and transmission. And expect to spend some money. Nickels and dimes will add up quickly. If it didn't need time and money he probably wouldn't be selling it. Lastly - do you like your neighbor now? Because you're going to find all of the "previous owner" stuff he did. Or he might be hanging out all the time pining over his old car.
  17. Mstick

    Rear lower control arms

    Looking for a set of z car rear lower control arms.
  18. There's been a lot of good replies to your question of how to build your car. I wanted to share some hindsight from a number of projects I've been involved with over the years. In the end you'll decide if any of this is useful or not. 1. One of the toughest decisions you'll be faced with is do you want a street car that can tracked or a track car that's street legal. Those may sound like the same thing but they are from from it. The first involves adding performance using the Z chassis for the most part similar to the Green Hornet mentioned above. The latter is much more like building a chassis and dropping the Z body onto it. This gets you more to a car like the Fairlady Z06 mentioned above. This also determines if you start with a solid chassis or you use one that's nothing more than the roof and doors. 2. Research, research, research. I'm not trying to be funny but you need to have the entire build plan figured out before you start. Then create a checklist and start crossing of items. This research and list will help you build a budget for the car. It may end up being a lot more expensive than you imagine (nothing wrong there) and you may never want an SO to see this spreadsheet. But if you've done your research and stick to your plan you won't but parts two or three times to get the right item. It will also keep you from having to figure certain things out along the way, which really adds up time wise. And lastly it will keep you from having scope creep. The latter can be a real killer of projects. 3. Determine/buy the drivetrain parts last. This is engine, transmission, wheels & tires, etc. If your project takes more than a year to build it's often possible better items will come along or prices in scrap yards will get better. The only time I'd say you can break this rule is if you have determined their is a specific drivetrain you're going to use and it's not going to get any cheaper and in fact may be harder to get later on down the road (L28ET for instance). 4. For the things you can't do find a good professional that can help you. While it's often tempting to use a buddies buddy or someone doing this from their home I've seen a lot of projects get stalled this way. This is generally around body and pain but could also be around having a roll cage built. For any vendors you plan to use take a look around to make sure they have a good track record. I wish you luck and good fortune on building your car. In the end there's nothing better than something you built yourself, well at least to me. Cary
  19. I'll do COP when my $200.00 Magnecor wires wear out. And then only if they look like plug wires:)
  20. Dat73z

    Triple Blowthrough Turbo

    A question for the community: I believe the turbo studs are M10 x 1.5 and some rough measurements show the studs will need to be ~50-55mm long due to the 1/2" thick stainless flange I'm using to clearance the T40E/T3 from the exhaust manifold. Is anyone aware of a vendor/supplier that sells these studs in Inconel?
  21. Amazing as usual.. I dont want to be like Tony But I would love to see this thing with individual coils ehem ehem
  22. Dat73z

    Triple Blowthrough Turbo

    2nd Weekend Update: Had some time this morning before the wife and I do our Sunday thing. Pulled the gas tank out from storage and started cleaning/buttoning everything up. I feel bad that this thing has been covered in dust for so long. I'm going to set up the fittings for 6AN feed and 8AN return. It is a MONZTER copy gas tank so service plate up top, ATL blackbox with the Walbro 255 inside, modified OEM fuel level sender. Once the tank is bolted up I'll pull the trans and delete the old fuel lines and that one evap line which runs to the driver's side frame rail. I need to measure out how much stainless line to order. I am going to assume bending 6AN and 8AN stainless will be a bear, but it needs to get done. Huge shout out to Ivan @ Vintage Spirit Garage over in Albany (no affiliation). I don't have the means in my garage to fab this up so I called around a bunch of local race / custom fab shops in the bay area and nobody wanted to take on this project. I just dropped off the parts and the work was done to a high standard and in a timely fashion. You can check out their Instagram page here: https://www.instagram.com/vintagespiritgarage/?hl=en
  23. jvandyke

    3d printed knobs

    working on my kid's '72 240, he has one broken heater control knob. $25/pop? I quickly modeled one while watching UofM kick Wisconsin's butt last night and printed one off. It might work, pretty ugly so far, needs tweaking. I don't have set screws to see if it will catch but hey, it's easy and might work. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3154591
  24. Making progress. Almost at the point where I can test the oil system. Front covers on. Internal lines finished. Externals as well. Getting closer! Hopefully Monday I can start testing the oil volume/pressures.
  25. Exile

    240z body parts for sale - Atlanta area

    Sounds good duderino. I don't care too much about the defrost grids, as long as it'll mount up and seal properly with my 280.
  26. The key thing IMHO boils down to rust and the general condition of the body. You cannot determine this through a casual inspection. Get a bright flashlight and plan to get dirty. Look underneath the car in the area below the driver and passenger floorboards. Evidence of severe corrosion and/or shoddy repair includes things like rivets, holes, tape (not kidding), extra layers of sheet metal, bondo or fiberglass. Also look carefully at the area in the engine bay below the battery. Check the rocker panels, particularly around the wheel wells, and look for holes, bubbling paint....or obvious rust. If you are looking at a neglected 1971 Z and are not seeing any rust, odds are huge that you don't know what to look for or are not looking closely enough in the right places. When I was in the market for a Z, I found a shell for sale (advertised as "99% rust free") that was a few hours from me. I had a relative near it and asked him to go "pre-screen" the car for me. He did, said it looked good, no rust, etc. So I drove down to look at it. Well, both the floor pans were completely rusted out...gone...and had been replaced with galvanized hardware store sheet metal that was pop-riveted over the holes. Same thing the rear spare tire well....completely rusted out and covered with riveted sheet metal. Also...the lower areas of the car were covered with pin holes and bubbled paint. My relative I sent to look at the car wasn't an idiot, but he failed to see any of this. These cars are very prone to rust, and the problem is that when it started to appear most of them were several years old and not very valuable. Properly repairing rust is so involved that very few of them had the cancer fixed and it has had years to continue to spread. I mention all this because unless you are handy, can weld and work sheet metal yourself, and want a long term project, significantly rusted cars are a deal breaker. Just getting the rust repaired properly involves so much labor that hiring a pro to do it would cost more than the car is worth. There are rust free and nearly rust free cars around, but in my case I looked at over a dozen and drove to a desert area before I found one. My advice? Find someone who really knows cars and is willing to get dirty to look it over with you.
  27. Hey everyone, Trying to figure out whether or not I should buy a 1971 240z off of a neighbor. I don't know much about the cars but really dig the style. The car seems to be in pretty good condition as for body and rust, though the interior needs some cleaning up. Runs but definitely needs some work to be road worthy. The owner and the previous owner have screwed with the electrical system so blinkers and headlights don't work. The engine will run but when he started it up the engine started to leak and there was a bit of a rattle. I think the rattle is due to a loose part and I may need to pull apart the engine to fix it. He said there was something wrong with the transmission and he couldn't shift the car into gear... The heater for the car wasn't working, which can be a problem with the upcoming winter months. The battery needed to be recharged and wouldn't keep a charge once hooked up. I think the radiator might need to be fixed/replaced as well. He offered to sell it for $2,200 but he only knew about the transmission problem before he finally started it up for me so I might be able to buy it for less. I am pretty sure those are all the major issues but there may be a few small problems I am forgetting about. Seems like it might be a bit of a project car and wanted to know if it will be worth the trouble and money to fix up. I was also wondering about good engine swaps if I were to buy this 1971 240z. I was thinking it might be better to take out the original engine and swap it with either another Z engine or something else. Not too sure what is compatible, reliable and good priced. I don't have a very large budget so am looking for cheaper options. If anyone could help me out or have an Idea for what I should do, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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