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  1. Today
  2. That was my initial plan (180* headers) but incorporating tri-y's and reverse megaphone collectors. I have the top part of the tri-y's done and the collectors (1-5/8" to 1-3/4" to 2.5" collector entry iirc - I haven't messed with them since the summer). I have room between the pan the subframe but I'm still on the fence about actually doing the cross over. It's at least 3' of additional piping. I kept the piping relatively small to help keep the velocity up but now I think with the megaphones and a good x pipe I can maximize the curve/ move it to the right (cam should make steam to 7,500). In hindsight, if I knew I was ditching the crossover I would have gone 1-3/4" -> 1-7/8" step. It's an 11.0:1 Gen 3 LS (383 stroker) with ITB's.
  3. theczechone

    280z intake manifold

    @DAT240ZI have one of a 1978, it does have egr but you can have it for $50 complete with fuel rail and injectors. Not sure if they are functional though. Motor came from salvage yard. Shipping not included located in SE Michigan
  4. SH4DY

    Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

    Just to update: WHP advised me to try to torque the other stub axle per FSM specs and see if it would fail as well. And it did. Except I realized that my wrench only goes up to 150 lbs/ft so the initial failure was also at less torque than I thought. Anyway, this one didn't fail as spectacularly: I torqued to 150, then tried the hub resistance in 1/4 turn increments. On the 3rd or 4th try, the resistance fell of significantly and I thought the threads had stripped. Nope, it just split about half way into the nut so it was still partially threaded. They are supposed to be making a new batch and shipping me some.
  5. The other problem I had was the fuel gauge is reading empty, there should be around a 1/4 tank of fuel. I installed a fuel gauge from a 280Z, I am reading 39 ohms at the sender. Not sure what is wrong, I grounded the signal wire and the gauge reads full. I will be trouble shooting this week.
  6. Here are some interior pictures. Just waiting for my new steering wheel from thezstore.com to complete interior.
  7. This weekend was the 1st real test for the LS2. I ran the engine for around 1 hour. The exhaust sounds great. The only problem I had was a small fuel leak at the carter low pressure fuel pump that feeds the Edlebrock sump located at the battery tray. The other problem was the LS2 thermostat was not opening until 215 degrees. The second fan was coming on at 217 degrees the engine would idle at a constant 217 degrees. I pulled the thermostat and put in boiling water and it opened at 215 degrees. The thermostat says 86 C looks like it is no good. I ordered a new delco 187 degree thermostat. My primary fan was coming on at 210 degrees, I will modify the ECU to come on at 200 degrees. Below is some pictures, the paint is about 60% complete. The color is the original metallic silver from 1971. The vintage air HVAC heater worked great.
  8. If you're planning any aero mods in the back skip it, as it creates massive flow separation and lift. If you check the windtunnel testing info in the FAQ, you can see it has the highest rear lift number of any of the tests. Makes me wonder what people are thinking when they put on the Pantera hatch and a spoiler or wing, or the worst combo, roof spoiler with Pantera hatch. It also increased the drag by .2 which is the equivalent of setting the wing that was tested for its highest angle of attack. So you get all the drag of pulling a wing through the air, and quite a bit less than none of the downforce. If you are just in it for looks, it appears to me like there will be plenty of room for a roll bar. Most of us try to get the main hoop of a roll bar as close to the rear fenders as possible and as tight against the map light area as we can, that's still well forward of where the hatch is though.
  9. turbogrill

    Top End Performance - Chattsowirth, CA

    Check out Datsun Spirit as well. I bought a strut bar from Top End Performance, was ok but not great quality. I have heard they are not the best to deal with and expensive but I had no issues with them.
  10. jkelly

    N47 Rebuilt and Upgraded Head

    Anyone?
  11. You are correct on all counts. I haven't seen any produced anytime recently. They will occasionally pop up for sale in used condition, but they are becoming extremely hard to find. Apparently, they are a bit more readily available in Japan than elsewhere....but not cheap. Some guys have fabricated their own custom hatches, which may account for the differences in style that you noted. I'm fairly certain that molds still exist, so you might be able to have someone create a single hatch for you from a mold. Check out the discussion threads on ClassicZCar.com, and you might get some useful leads. I personally like the look of the Pantera hatch, but not everyone does, as you've already noticed. Whatever you decide to do, good luck with it.
  12. Hi everyone Looking around for aftermarket parts I like AND can legally install on a Z (for road use) in Germany I came across the "Pantera hatch" or "inverted hatch". I know they're a bit polarizing, and apparently rather rare. To those who don't know what I'm talking about, I'm talking about those things: Can someone give me a little bit of information on those things? Are there companies that sell them? Or are they only to be found on the used market? Or are they DIY-pieces made out of the conventional hatch? I'm asking because the hatches slightly differ in some pictures. Does/did anyone here run that part? If so, where did you get it/who made it? Also, in this picture it seems like the car has an inverted hatch and a roll bar, does anyone have any information/experience in combining that type of hatch with a roll bar/-cage? Because I'd want the added safety, the law is probably going to require a bar/cage for stiffening, and since I got very little idea about how a car with an inverted hatch looks inside I wonder if it's possible to combine the two. Thanks in advance, Max
  13. Really cool process. Thanks
  14. Yes. And if using another year Subaru rack, then I think 86 Celica inners are what you want. Or for example an STI rack.
  15. Sorry for not posting in for a while. I was busy decorating my house for Christmas. Painted the bottom side and inside of the interior of the car. View of bottom of the front frame The bottom view of the floor pan and frame connectors. The rear of frame and bottom side of hatch area The interior floor and firewall was painted then the bottom side of the roof was painted too. The engine compartment and core support was covered with two coats of single stage polyurethane paint. View inside of the cowl area The spare tire well Only the interior of both doors, the hatch and front valance pan still have to be painted with single stage Polyurethane paint. The rest of the exterior parts of the car will be painted with polyurethane base color then clear coated.
  16. Yesterday
  17. Enzo250gto

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    Looking good. Very impressive. Paint looks a million dollars.💰
  18. TheWeekendWagon

    '78 280Z Charging Issues

    Yeah it's a starting point at least! Side note. Replaced both of the fuses and as expected no change. They were good to begin with. The rest will have to wait a week until I get home and have some time to take the dash out and get to that volt gauge.
  19. chelle

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    It's looking amazing!!!!! Thanks for sharing! Is it okay if I share these with the GTO replica fans on our Facebook group ?
  20. NewZed

    '78 280Z Charging Issues

    I was going to mention what Sam280Z said about the Charge light. But the diagram shows a parallel circuit with the check relay so that wouldn't be a problem IF the diagram is correct. Current through the check relay solenoid would supply the L circuit and the bulb circuit would not be necessary. Now that you've mentioned all of the other problems, it seems more likely that it could be the cause and the diagram is not correct. Good luck. At least you know that it's power to the L wire that is the problem.
  21. seattlejester

    Rubber Plugs

    I'd just replace it and cover it. My car was in active service for 30 odd years and the plugs were still alright. 30 years down the line you can cut out a patch from the mat and replace and recover. If you are going to close them, I'd suggest more permanence then fiber glass. Weld a patch and seam seal it. That will also tell you the health of the surrounding metal which if it is constantly wet might be worse off then you realize.
  22. TheWeekendWagon

    '78 280Z Charging Issues

    Hmm, I have been using a diagram for the whole car which shows things slightly different than that one. Question about the Bulb Check Relay...if that wasn't getting power from the fuse block, would that trigger the brake warning light on the speedometer? If so then the fuse makes the most sense as the cause of the problem, however visually the fuse looks fine. Going to try and change it anyway just to rule it out. That's a likely culprit too as I had that gauge removed to change the main light to LED. I don't remember if I switched the charge light to LED or if it was a different size bulb. Unfortunately I don't think I will have time to remove the dash to get to it before I leave town for a week so that will have to wait if the fuse thing doesn't work which I kind of don't think it will based on the info below. SIDE NOTE: The whole car wiring diagram I have been staring at for hours shows the charging system wired a little differently than the diagram posted in this thread. The broken down diagram shows the whole circuit running off of one fuse while the whole car diagram shows it running off of two fuses (3rd + 4th from top on the Left). It shows the "G" wire coming off of the 3rd fuse down whereas the broken down diagram shows it coming off of the 4th. The whole car also shows the many other things that are powered by those two fuses, most of which work which kind of debunks the fuse theory. BUT the interesting thing is that all of my current problem areas with the car, all problems that started at the same time, can be traced back to those two fuses: Alternator not charging, e-brake warning light on speedo constantly lit, tach not reading RPMs, charge light on volt gauge doesn't work.
  23. Sam280Z

    '78 280Z Charging Issues

    Is the charge warning light coming on in the voltmeter gauge? the alternator will not charge if that bulb is burnt-out.
  24. Hi everyone, I have a 1973 240z that was in an accident and rather than repair it with steel the previous owner decided to take about the last foot off completely and go mad with some fiberglass and some odd lights. About all Ive been able to find as far as rear panels go is a couple of 260z 2+2 shells so I was wondering if anyone with a 240 or a 260 could measure across the full width as well as part measurements of the lighting/licence panels so I can see if a rear cut could be used. As the car has been played with a bit Im not worried about going back to original and just want some real steel holding the body together. From a couple of post that Ive found about difference between 240/260/280z there were comments saying that a 260z 2+2 body is wider, or that the middle of the bumper is wider to fit around the body. But there wasn't any concrete information/ measurements (or if the spacing of lights is still the same), and there was no panel measurements in FSM's that Ive seen. If someone can do some measurements/ photos, or has some information it would be a great help. Thanks for your time.
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