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  3. yellowoctupus

    460ZGT Project Build

    I used the holes in the knuckle which are normally for the rotor dust shield, and I added a fourth hole for mounting to my new 'knuckle plate'. After boring out the center hole, I simply used a transfer punch to get the rest of the holes positioned in the steel plate.
  4. For my purposes only performance above 3500 is relevant. As it is now, more acceleration above 5000 is required so a cam change is next. At this time no other modifications are contemplated because all the indications are that the right cam/header combination should do the job.
  5. yellowoctupus

    460ZGT Project Build

    8.8 IRS Time.... Most parts in this build are from a '94 Mark VIII parts car I dragged home and stripped a few years ago. I used the engine for my supercharger mockup and kept the rear subframe for this project. The whole car was $300 (missing a transmission, no title) and I sold off about $800 worth of parts. So, parts are basically free at this point. You could probably get that whole subframe from a U-pull place for $200 I'd guess. They're relatively easy to pull, as long as none of the bolts that hold the subframe in are rusty or spin the nuts which are welded (blind of course) up in the unibody. Bring a battery sawzall with you, that would be my advice. Aluminum center section, 3.27 gears, open carrier. 28 spline - Mark VIII Hubs - Mark VIII, redrilled for Z pattern from wonky 5x4.25 Mark VIII pattern CV axle assembly, stock Mark VIII CV joints with custom length 300m axle shafts from the Driveshaft Shop. I was quoted $225 a piece (thankfully that's the only big $ item I had to buy, cause OUCH that's a lot of money for two pieces of metal...) I seriously considered making my own shafts out of 4340, but the strength would be way down (unless I also had them heat treated) and setup would be a pain, and I just don't have the time for a project like that right now. Crazy enough, they said they had the 15.75" shaft I needed IN STOCK. He said they basically stock these shafts from 14-30" in 0.25" increments. I meant to ask if they were used for other cars as well. I'm assuming they are, but it would be interesting to know. Struts - 2000 (1994-2004) Mustang Front Struts (they both have just over 6" travel, and are for a similar weight vehicle with a LOT of aftermarket options for coilovers, adjustable struts etc.) $35 shipped, eBay. (79-94 are very similar, and would probably work fine. 2005+ would be a pain as they have an OEM coilover setup that would not fit in the Z strut towers) The OEM struts I have have a body diameter of 2.015" (for coilover reference) Springs - Stock Z Top spring retainer, Z, redrilled to 5/8" for Mustang struts. Brakes, Rotors- Mark VIII Driveshaft - 1984-1996 (C4) Corvette Automatic. Aluminum, comes with 1310 joints. Shipped $39, eBay. Differential Cover/Rear Diff Mount - Stock Z Mustache Bar, Dr.Z Fabrication cover. (link) $65 shipped DIY kit. (Dr Z's unrelated to Datsun stuff, he does off-road parts.) Bearing Housing, brake caliper mount "Knuckle" - Mark VIII Knuckle + strut/suspension pivot piece. $50 in steel from local steel yard. (lots of work!) Would be about 500 times faster to make set #2 now that "I know what I'm doing". Front Differential Mount - tube steel, aluminum spacers and Jeep Cherokee sway bar bushings. Jeeps have a 1" sway bar, the Z suspension is 25mm. Close enough for now. Rear suspension coming out, about 2.5yrs ago. Guess it took a while before I dove in, huh? Stock picture from Dr.Z Fabrication's page. I had clearance issues on the outer ring itself, but I was able to grind the plate back. Post welding I also had to flatten out the gasket face on the mill. It would probably be worth just having them weld it up with all of the extra work I had to do to jig an mill it flat again. (Assuming they sent it to you properly flat, of course). Pre and Post OP Oh, and on the offchance that someone is wondering if you could jam a Mark VIII hub bearings into the Z spindle, yeah, you can't do it. All sorts of cavities and dimensions that will NOT play nice in the Z strut. That would have been cool though, right? Rockauto has the wheel bearings pictured below from $8 (generic) to about $25 for Timkens (OE), SKF $28. At 'full droop' the stock Z suspension has 3° positive camber. The distance from the top of the strut (measured above the rubber isolator) to the lower pivot point is 31". Although primitive, a wooden block set the height with a ratchet strap holding it tight worked well for the strut block positioning. Differential Mounting picture. I may have to reposition the front mount to above the differential as I think it might get in the way of the exhaust.
  6. rotsun777

    Stock front sway bar - $20 USD!

    interested, still for sale?
  7. You need a conversion flange or adapter on the wheel side to bolt the CV shaft to. The splined end will slide and clip in to your R200 diff, if you use a Datsun CV shaft. One choice you need to make is about the CV shaft. It's pretty well documented that the 300ZX CLSD shafts are too long. So if you choose that option you need to buy CV shafts also. Or you can try to find 280ZXT shafts, which seem to fit with no modifications. Or you can get Porsche 930 style CV shafts, but that requires a different conversion axle or adapter. In the end, after all of the money and time, you won't have much better strength or performance (smoothness) than the stock u-joint shafts. But many people do it. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://zcardepot.com/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61 http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun
  8. I'll say it again, find a shop with a Dynapack. No fussing with ignition pickups and they are very consistent. Always be ready for it all to go wrong!
  9. SO I want to modernize my project a little as I go. I want to use CV joint half shafts. Whats the best way to go about making the conversion. I have heard about getting other diffs like out of an Infinity and using the half shafts that come with those diffs. Any help is appreciated. My car is a 75 and I believe it has the R200 diff with a 3.54 ratio. Any thoughts on modernizing other parts is appreciated as well. The car is being built as a Track Day car. I want to upgrade the brakes as well. I want to install as big and wide wheels as is reasonable the then flare the panels to cover teh tires. What sizes seem to provide the best look and performance. Thanks Roger
  10. So...I got this quote today...LOL! And that's the minimum length of pipe I can purchase with them.
  11. Can someone tell if the turn signals are supposed to work with the key in the off or lock position?
  12. Yesterday
  13. 05.18.2018 Dyno Day Report 630am - 815am I arrive at my road testing location, and continue to prep for my dyno appt at 9am I continue to refine the performance of the short stack webers I achieve a near-constant 13.0 AFR from ~4000-7000 RPM Car is smooth as silk at the top of 4th gear, 120ish? I have known good jet settings for 38mm venturis with long stacks, and 40mm venturis with short and long stacks, and have swapped back to known good settings several time this week. Repeatable. 845am Unload car at dyno shop Car fires right up, I turn it off after driving it off trailer. Tech wants to get in the car and put it on the dyno. Against my better judgment, I allow a young tech to attempt to start my triple carbs (neither warm nor cold motor) 915am At this point I kicked the tech out of the car and I'm trying to start it. Flooded? Fouled plugs? I decide to refuel, allowing time for the flooded carbs to clear. Won't start 10am New NGK plugs installed Fires right up, I drive it onto dyno Tech has me accelerate slightly to set the wheels. I am already alarmed by dyno noises and vibrations, I am assured this is normal It's not like I've never dynoed before 1030am Car is NOT the same car that I've been tuning all week! Making jet changes are having OPPOSITE effects then what happens roadside! Example: changing main jets 10 up or down DOES NOTHING!? Example: changing air corrector jets now behave as if the main jet is being changed? Additionally and separately, my ignition is being screwy A few times, the rev limiter did not kick in AT ALL Several times, the car wouldn't accelerate on the dyno, but would simply hesitate and chill out and get groceries Several times, while getting groceries on the dyno, VTEC or something kicked in because the acceleration would suddently PULL VERY HARD. Pulls back to back did NOT have the same performance. We started to not trust the data, sometimes doing 3 pulls for every adjustment. WTF is going on? 1130am Despite that the rules of tuning are now unpredictable, despite that my known settings are now shit... I finally find a good AFR again, very near my 13.0 AFR that was attained roadside that morning Time to move to timing Dyno is scheduled for another customer at 2pm! At this point all I want is to capture data for the Weber short and long stacks 12pm I start messing with 1000RPM timing I get my triples idling very nicely with a screwdriver I start messing with 3000RPM timing Engine is hot, needs to cool 1230pm Tech announces he is going to lunch No other techs around 1pm Pulls resume I am less desensitized to the vibrations I continue to express concerns and I am told all is normal 115pm Eff this, I'm getting my car outta here I drive off the dyno and onto the street, vibes are insane, loud at 35mph Day is done 215pm Drop my car off at a general auto place to investigate on a lift They tighten the driveshaft and right CV axle (inner bolts) Evening I pushed myself so hard this week that I start shaking and aching and getting sick Straight to bed around 7pm Weekend Saturday - rest. I skip the first race the car can actually enter... because the driver can't go physically. Sunday - autocross. Car kicked my ass, in a good way. Couldn't get the rear to settle down, which was delightful. Not sure if I had "fun." Big losses this week. That's sad. Ignition My ignition was crippled by something that day. The hall effect sensor is supposed to negate interference? Haven't called Electromotive yet. Depressing. I will. My theory: the dyno's ignition inductance pickup was near my hall effect sensor's harness, where the sensor wire is less shielded for a few inches to allow the sensor and XDI harness to clip together. I suspect if this had been relocated, the issue would have cleared. (Some positions definitely made it worse!) Dyno Graphs The way the dyno loaded up (very delayed)... it was very hard to scientifically produce consistent dyno runs. You can see some really screwy dyno plots. The ignition pickup had a really hard time, clearly. I attempted to attain WOT by 3500 and 4000 RPM as the engine tune allowed. In most cases, if I rolled into WOT slowly, it worked out. If I rolled quickly, it would be a wasted dyno pull (delayed dyno loading). A few times I forgot I was supposed to achieve WOT (for consistent analysis of what the change did) and throttled the carbs through the reverb RPM range. Very interesting to look at the torque plots of the throttled runs! WOW! (Enter driver as a patch! Haha.) Summary Phudge. What the crap, even? I'm still going to mess with a few of the air horns for awhile. I'll still come back... not at this dyno. The staff, to me, was more interested in getting through their day than helping their customer accomplish anything. They dismissed my concerns about ignition and vibrations. Not helpful. Sigh... A not-quite what we want to hear video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk_MpV3F9Ys
  14. Thanks Jon. I was pretty much in shock all day on Friday. I couldn't believe what was happening as it unfolded. Unreal. I agree, I'd be a lot more comfortable if the inner bolts were also safety wired. rustler753, I'm running Stahl headers with 1 5/8" primaries, and 2.5" secondary collectors. The two 2.5" pipes are passed through a 20 degree merge collector, then expanded from 2.5" to 3" with 3" mandrel exhaust all the way back. Two straight through Magnaflow mufflers in series. I've been running 75F8 idle jets for the most part, with 70F8 and 80F8 also being used depending on the day and carb setup (venturis, horns, etc).
  15. supershanesta

    Rear Hatch Sill Replace it or wait it out.

    Your right. At the end of the day it will be worth it for me to learn. I can use it on other parts of the car later down the road. Also a good point as it is not visible and structural. If it doesn't look great who cares. I really appreciate your guy's responses. I think I will be going the diy route and buying welder. It will come in handy for sure! I will be posting my progress here later in the weekend and hopefully get it done in the next couple weeks after I feel comfortable welding. Thanks, Shane
  16. socorob

    Rear Hatch Sill Replace it or wait it out.

    Since thats not really a structural piece, I used body panel glue will a few spot welds all around.
  17. Rota RKR 15x8 0 offset. Toyo Proxes R888R 225/50 15 A little fender rolling on the back fender, otherwise fits great.
  18. BJSZED

    Resistor, Diode or Both

    Thanks for your responses...good advice, will do
  19. Villeman

    1975 280z Part Out, bushings, and more

    DAMN! no chance or getting them shipped prior i guess?
  20. NewZed

    Resistor, Diode or Both

    Do the swaps one at a time also or you might not know which swap is causing problem, voltmeter or alternator.
  21. NewZed

    Resistor, Diode or Both

    The diode goes on the L wire. Are you sure the Speedhut meter doesn't have a charge warning light? Either way, you should be able to use the typical 240Z alt swap wiring instructions. But, it's actually pretty simple. Study what the S and L wires actually do, and just wire according to function.
  22. Neverdone

    Rear Hatch Sill Replace it or wait it out.

    Go to your local community college and take a class in welding if you're really worried and want more than getting your degree the University of Youtube. That being said, there's a lot of guys out there who put a lot of great information on this on Youtube. Picking up some random pieces of sheet metal, cutting them and welding them back together is great practice. Plus when you're done you have a welder and have learned a new skill!
  23. BJSZED

    Resistor, Diode or Both

    I've been reading on-line and getting confused. I think the resistor comes into play on a 4 wire alternator. It is used instead of an alternator charge light. Without it apparently it won't charge at idle. I believe I just need the diode on the run/start ignition wire from the ignition switch to the alternator.
  24. supershanesta

    Rear Hatch Sill Replace it or wait it out.

    Well I got a quote.... $600. This is from Craigslist. At that price I feel like I should just buy a Vulcan 140 welder from Harbor Freight for $400 and make this a DIY. Practice for a week and go for it. Anyone here weld? Do you think it would be too ambitious of me to try to do it myself with little to no experience?
  25. NewZed

    Resistor, Diode or Both

    Where did you get the thought that you need a resistor?
  26. neruve

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    What kind of price are you thinking for the knuckles and cradle when you are finished prototyping?
  27. jkelly

    1975 280z Part Out, bushings, and more

    Hi Villeman, I'm away from the car for a while and will not likely be going back until around Christmas. I can let you know when I go back and if you're still interested we can work something out.
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