17 replies to this topic

[JoshCarz]

I've just dropped a 350 Chevy with a Chevy Camaro T5 in my 72 Datsun 240z but I'm a little stuck on what clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder to use. I bought a Camaro slave cylinder but the fitting looks like a slide in type with a pin that holds it in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I bought the JTR book but it seems a little vague in this area.

Here are some pics of the car if your interested
Engine install:
https://www.dropbox....ust in?h=6dcc57

radiator mount fab:
https://www.dropbox....ust in?h=1cd091

Random car pics:
https://www.dropbox....ew 350?h=0080bc
https://www.dropbox.... album?h=ee88f3

[Miles]

Go here: post #7: http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry920425



Do a search in the Drivetrain section. Lots of options there.



See picture of the McLeod roll-pin adaptor.

Attached Files

•  mcleod roll pin adaptor.jpg   12.75KB   27 downloads

Edited by Miles, 30 March 2012 - 06:47 PM.

[GOTHALOSISM]

I ended up going to a local hose shop and they gave me what I needed along with the hose. I think I spent around $20 for all of it.

[Miles]

I ended up going to a local hose shop and they gave me what I needed along with the hose. I think I spent around $20 for all of it.

Did the hose shop install a roll pin connector on the hose? That was my first choice, but I couldn't find a shop that could install the rollpin connector.

[JoshCarz]

I ended up buying those parts off of www.Jegs.com . The part number for the hose listed was actually 361-63011732 and not the one in that thread. I think he was just missing the "3". Thanks for all the help guys. I'll post more pics here soon.

Edited by JoshCarz, 31 March 2012 - 11:05 AM.

[Miles]

Sorry about the part number typo in the thread I listed above. Here is the Earls p/n for the -3 clutch hose: Earls Speed-Flex Line Part #: 63011732ERL

[JoshCarz]

It's cool. Thanks for the link. It really helped a lot. Today I just picked up a drive-line. It is the newer style where the u-joints clip in the center but the rear end converter for the Chevy drive-line uses the older style that clip on the outside. I'm just going to look for a conversion u-joint. The book says a 92 - 95 Camaro with an aluminum drive-line has that conversion u-joint on it. I also found a shop local that will shorten and balance it for 69.99. I'm not sure if that's expensive but sounds good enough. After I get the clutch stuff in and installed and the drive-line shortened and installed it will be ready to drive. Well capable anyways. I'll need a exhaust system installed. Might be a little loud without it . Thanks for all the help guys.

[JoshCarz]

Here is the u-joint I purchased today. This is the u-joint needed for a newer inner clip u-joint drive-line to fit the converter for the Datsun rear end which uses the older outer clip u-joint.

From AutoZone the part number is 3-3130DL

 3-3130DL u-joint.jpg   11.69KB   14 downloads

AutoZone website:
http://www.autozone....0_&newYmme=true

not bad for $9.99

Edited by JoshCarz, 31 March 2012 - 07:34 PM.

[GOTHALOSISM]

$70 is slamming, make sure you get the right flange to mate up with the datsun diff.

[JoshCarz]

The drive-line was finished today. It came to about $68.00. He shortened, balanced and even installed the u-joints for me. The owner, Mike, was a very nice guy. I got it done at Drive Line Services in Fresno, CA. Here is their website. http://www.drive-lines.com/

 IMAG0541.jpg   1.93MB   34 downloads

[GOTHALOSISM]

I paid $250 for mine so yeah you got a great deal.

[tyler031734]

I paid $250 for mine so yeah you got a great deal.

Wow I thought $110 was a bit steep. Hopefully that price was for an aluminum drive line?

[JoshCarz]

The Tilton clutch master cylinder worked very well. It is shorter and the windshield washer tank still fits. I'll try to take some pics tonight.

I ordered the 454-75-875U. This is their compact version. It still has 7/8" bore with 1.1" of throw. Same as the 454-74-875U. With the shorter one the washer tank still fits.

454-75-875U $89.25 (Summit prices)
http://www.tiltonrac...list2&id=23&m=b

454-74-875U $72.28
http://www.tiltonrac...list2&id=22&m=b

Edited by JoshCarz, 13 April 2012 - 09:19 AM.

[DavyZ]

Here is the u-joint I purchased today. This is the u-joint needed for a newer inner clip u-joint drive-line to fit the converter for the Datsun rear end which uses the older outer clip u-joint.

From AutoZone the part number is 3-3130DL

 3-3130DL u-joint.jpg   11.69KB   14 downloads

AutoZone website:
http://www.autozone....0_&newYmme=true

not bad for $9.99

Josh, if your u-joint fails, they do have another one there that looks significantly stronger: Part Number: 3-3130DG
Alternate Part Number: 3-3130BF

Features & Benefits

Duralast Gold universal joints are manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment specifications. This results in a better fit, reduced vibration and less maintenance. Duralast Gold journal crosses are heat-treated and engineered to maximize life. We use a solid forged cross body to increase joint strength for rigorous loads. Our Duralast Gold u-joints come pre-greased with synthetic lithium grease minimizing installation time and providing a worry free product that never requires maintenance. Our nitrile rubber seals are long wearing and abrasion resistant. They optimize grease retention and prevent contamination. Our specially formulated Alumi-Shield ® anti-corrosion coating allows you to use Duralast Gold u-joints on vehicles originally equipped with aluminum drive shafts or aftermarket upgrades.
•Never needs greasing - factory filled with synthetic lithium grease
•Solid forged cross-body to increase joint strength for rigorous loads
•Precision ground needle bearings for higher load carrying capacity
•Nitrile rubber seal engineered to reduce seal surface friction
•Manufactured in TS16949 certified facilities

At least it sure reads better--I'm sold even if it isn't better, hah! Since we're all about performance, it may be a consideration, especially if you plan to drive the car hard (who doesn't?).

I appreciate you posting the link. I think I found what I want to buy and they are $14.99. Very reasonable IMO. I think JTR recommends the u-joints like these w/o grease fittings becuase they claim they are stronger.

Davy

[tyler031734]

I appreciate you posting the link. I think I found what I want to buy and they are $14.99. Very reasonable IMO. I think JTR recommends the u-joints like these w/o grease fittings becuase they claim they are stronger.

Davy

On one of those horsepower shows they said to be sure the grease fitting is in a position so that the drive line forces compresses at the grease hole. If your U joint is clocked wrong, it can pull at the grease hole and possibly braking your U joint from being pulled apart.

Id get one with a grease fitting as you don't have to remove to lube and make sure its installed in the proper orientation.

thats something I never thought of before, but make sure its done this way every time now. That being said, The only U joint I broke was on install. lol

[JoshCarz]

Good info. I'm only pushing around 300 to 320 hp so I think I'll be good. I do like having the grease fitting.

[DavyZ]

Go here: post #7: http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry920425

Do a search in the Drivetrain section. Lots of options there.

Miles, I think I found a cheaper alternative on a Third Gen forum for the McLeod roll pin adapter: Summit Racing Part Number RUS-640281 You actually get two of them and they come in around $21 for the pair. I believe these are the same thing basically...at least I hope I am right since I already ordered them!!


Davy

[Miles]

Davy



Good find. Looks identical except for the material.

Edited by Miles, 16 May 2012 - 05:13 PM.