Chronicals of rejracers L28ET swap
Posted 31 May 2012 - 10:34 PM
1. Plugged vacuum leaks in boost-o-meter port, Cruise control port, and some other small 1/8" port.
2. mounted the ECU
3. Wired in the Tach
4. Flushed the cooling system
5. Installed hood.
The ECU was mounted in between the steering column and the heater assembly. I ran the harness through the old choke hole, but I enlarged it to 1 3/4" to match the OE grommet. With the ECU mounted in this location, it gave me 18" more length to play with in the engine bay. From the Grommet to the ECU, there is only about 13" of wiring, It works out well in my opinion.
Once the engine harness is completed there will only be 3 connectors connecting the engine to the car.
1. Constant power
3. 8 circuit metri pak connector which has the following:
C. Coolant temp
D. Tachometer signal
E. Oil pressure,
F. Oil Temp,
G. Alternator Excite,
H. Alternator sense wires.
The letters corespond to the Delphi Metri-pak 150 series cavity location on an 8 Cavity plug. Items in green have not been done yet. So with 3 connections the engine is electrically disconnected from the chassis.
Left to do:
1. Tidy up and route the harness from firewall to engine.
2. Tidy up Chassis harness
3. Install Voltmeter
4. Mount Evap Canister
5. Put interior back together
6. Get pics and writeup.
Basically it's just pretty up work, the swap is done and in.
Posted 01 June 2012 - 01:55 PM
Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:12 PM
Harness installed. The routing is mostly stock, as in I've not yet hacked into it and routed like I want.
The Passenger side. I was trying to get it running, not make it look pretty. Im thinking about getting the constant power and ground from the starter and using the new passenger side harness to route the wires. It would make the harness have less contact points to the chassis.
The ECU mounted. I ran the wire through the old choke hole after drilling it out to 1 3/4"
Shortly before the the carnage began the harness was thinking "what are those wire cutters for. If it had only known...
If you ever try this, start at the ECU end, and get the length right there first. Then modify the rest.
All gone now.
Notice the stainless steel bracket. It's where I wanted to route the harness.
Lots of excess means lots of time, solder, heat shrink and a sore back.
The idea coming together:
..and then I change my mind:
The perfect length for the ECU location.
This is close to the final routing. I think it's clean and easy
The major bits of the harness removed from it. Not shown is the excess wire from the injectors.
That's all the pics I have for now. It's getting there. If anyone has suggestions on routing the harnesses, I'm all ears.
Edited by rejracer, 05 June 2012 - 09:29 PM.
Posted 30 October 2013 - 07:15 PM
So it's been a year and a half and no update, I shall remedy this!
Work that has been done since the initial swap:
1. New wheels and tires
2. New stereo
3. Manual boost controller installed.
4. Emergency pressure relief valve removed.
5. 280z overflow bottle
6. New 3/8 fuel line bent and installed by yours truly.
7. FS5W71C transmission from a 300zx.
8. 3.70 open diff from the same 300ZX
9. New custom driveshaft using the larger U-Joints
10. New MSA radiator after full flush of the system.
11. Bonk was kind enough to give me his old metal radiator shroud, it's installed.
12. MSA downpipe
13. 409 mandrel bent Stainless exhaust.
Up next: T3/T4 hybrid when it gets out of Turbo shop jail.
Pics to follow as soon as I can find them.
Edited by rejracer, 30 October 2013 - 09:22 PM.
Posted 30 October 2013 - 08:49 PM
So I scrounged a few pics that were already on my phone and PC
This is the Hallman manual boost controller. It's currently adding 0 PSI. When I get the new fuel pump in, I may add a pound or 2.
Here is how the FS5W71C shifter turned out. It's a nice short throw. I just removed the stock rubber insulated shifter extension and added a spare momo long shift knob. In this photo it's in 3rd gear.
Here is the shifter in 4th. I made a metal ring that is just slightly smaller than the console hole. With the shift boot slipped over it, it fits snugly into the factory hole. This setup is not using the factory clips to hold the shift boot in place. Nice thing is it's only held in by gravity, and stays in place well. Removal is a snap and does not result in losing yet another chunk out of your console.
The new Radiator and shroud. I cleaned the shroud up as well as I could, and spot welded it up where it was cracking. I also took the time to tack weld some m6 nuts to one side of the shroud and drill holes on the other side for some M6 bolts. before there was just a mickey mouse clip holding the 2 halves together, it's much more solid now. I painted it up with wrinkle pain, and it looks great. I 3 days after I installed it I went to Indian Wells which is just outside of Palm Springs. It did fine in traffic when temps were 109* out. I was happy.
I wanted to retain EGR, So I retained it. Here is the finished install pic. I had to drill a hole in the MSA downpipe and weld on a 1/2" steel gas fitting to it.
Here is the 1/2" Stainless steel gas line I used. This one was 12" in length. I bought it at lowes. The fitting on the top is a M22x1.5 to SAE 45* flare fitting which can be readily had at any well supplied hydraulic shop. 1/2" SAE flare and 45* gas flare happen to be the same thread pitch. (3/4" is not) I took the lower steel fitting and welded it to the Downpipe, and removed the old fitting in the manifold and replaced with this one and I had a DIY EGR setup with a stainless tube. The yellow paint is burnt off now and all is left is a bare stainless flex line, it looks good to boot.
I wanted to have the system flanged, and I was not really happy with the 2 bolt flanges Nissan uses. After looking around the interweb I found these Vband clamps for 25bucks a pop. We will see if they hold up, but not bad for all stainless units.
I did not want to weld the stainless pipe to the dynomax muffler, so I welded a short 2.5" extension piece and slip this into the muffler. I don't really like using the compression clamps to hold things together, so I think I'm going to get another vband and weld it to it, and also make up a straight pipe extension / tip.
I will say this, 409 stainless is a pain to weld with mig. Had I to do it over again I would have gone with 304. I thought 409 was just a better grade, but was I ever wrong. 409 stainless is designed to be light, strong and corrosion resistant, but it's not near as good as the heavier 304. Read up on your materials before buying!
to weld the 409 stainless you must go in about 1.5 second bursts, skip to the next bead on the other side of the pipe, weld for 1.5 seconds, skip to the next bead.... It was slow, and well lets just say your not going to mistake this weld job as being done by a professional welder. If anyone has any tips on welding 409 exhaust tube, i'm all ears.
I'll get a few more pics up when time allows.
Edited by rejracer, 30 October 2013 - 08:59 PM.
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