tonycharger72 Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Hey guys, thought I would share some pics of my new new floor pans and chassis rails, me about 10 full days and was a lot of work These are the new floor pans installed, bought this cool tool that punches a hole in the sheet metal, so I was able to clamp the seperate pieces together and plug welded it all together - my Mig has a timer on it, which made lie easier!!! Then once flipped it over knocked the new floor pans into shape and tacked it all on the reverse side! Flipped over! I still have not decided if I am going to keep the original TC brackets so this area has not yet been fully welded - still trying to figure out what do here! I made new chassis rails a few months ago but was not happy with them and made them out of 3mm sidewalled 65x65 tube, probably a touch to thick, so have whipped these up instead - should taper out to 710mm and will use 10mm bolts for the sway-bar, Still haven't worked out what I will do with my crossmember - I am running a 1UZ and the mounts are in the middle of the block, so was thinking of increaseing the engine mount area on the crossmember - this is the theory, This is so I could make a larger crossmember so I wouldn't have to offset the engine mounts - but still deciding if I will do this with the new ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forchunet Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 awesome work! Wish mine would turn out half as good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PresaMax Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Great work. Looks like a very strong and rigid chassis. Thanks for posting the pics. I'm sure its going to help me in my restoration. Julius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 I don't know when you started that, but you're already further than me! Dang it I hate this weather. BTW, you could probably lose those compression arm mounts, and fab something custom up to fit your adjustable compression arms.. Check mine out, pretty simple to mount, no bushing, just bolt the bracket to something strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Started on the floor pans and rails just after Christmas BTW, you could probably lose those compression arm mounts, and fab something custom up to fit your adjustable compression arms.. Check mine out, pretty simple to mount, no bushing, just bolt the bracket to something strong. Yeah I want to get rid of them, very hard to get in there and weld up all the joins so new moisture will get into my rails, heaps prefer a nice flat surface to mount up the underbody rails!!! Thats very nice, could just run that bolt top-to-bottom through the chassis rails, very neat!!! Oh, thought I would mention, the original rails hung down about 10mm from the original floor-pan, the new rails are 65x35x2mm box section, to compensate for the added thickness (35mm vs 10mm) I raised the floors up 25mm (1") to I wouldn't lose ground clearance and so I wouldn't have to put up with a bloody great big bar inside the cabin !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Yeah, I raised my floors so that they are flush with the bottom of the rockers. I want it LOW.. and maybe a full under tray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboboost Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Excellent work, sure makes it easy when you can just flip the car over to get the underside though. Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Nice work mate! What engine/gearbox are you running mate? I am cutting the original Trans mount out of the tunnel and installing another sort of cross-brace, I need the room !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Looks really nice! Having a rotisserie is the trick, I wish I would have built one when I did my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I wish I had SPACE and a WARM garage <_< Winter just freezes everything for me BTW where do I get some of those arms? I can't reuse my mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Any opinions on the really big mouth for the crossmember mounts on the chassis rails? this a good idea or a bad idea structually? The reason I want the really big mouth is because I am using a 1UZ, engine mounts are located centrally on the block so wanted to design a crossmember that was much further back in the engine bay, but because the LCA's are in a specific location it also has to be pretty far forward to, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Any opinions on the really big mouth for the crossmember mounts on the chassis rails? this a good idea or a bad idea structually? The reason I want the really big mouth is because I am using a 1UZ, engine mounts are located centrally on the block so wanted to design a crossmember that was much further back in the engine bay, but because the LCA's are in a specific location it also has to be pretty far forward to, I would just make a separate x member just for the engine mounts and hack off the engine mounts on the original x member so they don't get in the way. IDK toyota engines well, just realized that you might have clearance issues with the oil pan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 I would just make a separate x member just for the engine mounts and hack off the engine mounts on the original x member so they don't get in the way. IDK toyota engines well, just realized that you might have clearance issues with the oil pan Yeah thought about that, but reckon it looks kinda ugly, like a dodgy after-thought !!! And you right, I pretty much don't have clearance, my sump is bang smack in the way, I need something that resembles a K-Frame, like what is in a Mopar, Dont think there is many other options open to me for the crossmember, besides welding mounts onto the chassis rails!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 tonycharger72, Your work is yet another example of why Hybriz is such a valuable resource for those who need detailed help or inspiration. Please post more pictures as job progresses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Thanks man, I would never have done any of this unless this site existed, special thanks needs to go to Mull's "Hugo" documentation in the projects section - extremely detailed and gave me a lot of ideas of how to do mine!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thursdaymike Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 wow that looks really good! When I worked For a fabrication company building large disaster relief vehicle for the post office we used this stuff called Seek-a-flex. I'm not sure if that is how it is spelled, but its like a caulk but dries as hard as metal. We would use it to seal edges of sheet metal. You might look into it for sealing your frame rails! Awesome job so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 wow that looks really good! When I worked For a fabrication company building large disaster relief vehicle for the post office we used this stuff called Seek-a-flex. I'm not sure if that is how it is spelled, but its like a caulk but dries as hard as metal. We would use it to seal edges of sheet metal. You might look into it for sealing your frame rails! Awesome job so far! Seam sealer does the same thing. I would be wary of things that cures "as hard as metal" to seal seams on a vehicle. The areas around spot welds are going to flex a little. Over time, a stiff sealer won't seal anymore. I would finish that bead if you don't want to go ahead and use sealer. Just have a bucket full of ice and a couple rags handy. layer a couple rags, then wrap a hand full of ice and keep that in one had as you are welding. after you are done with a pass, wait about 3 or 4 sec and then put the rag on the bead for like 5 sec, to minimize warpage. you'll be surprised on how effective this is. BTW the water will evaporate for before it rusts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 I have used Sicalfex (I have no idea how its spelled either ) but had a pretty ordinary experience with it, maybe I was using it in the wrong areas, the little bit between the drip rails and roof...........but it cracked and cracked pretty quickly!!! There is other stuff made by Locktite - supposed to be used by Holden (GM) and Ford locally on all their new cars, so I will give that a crack!!! I would finish that bead if you don't want to go ahead and use sealer. Just have a bucket full of ice and a couple rags handy. layer a couple rags, then wrap a hand full of ice and keep that in one had as you are welding. after you are done with a pass, wait about 3 or 4 sec and then put the rag on the bead for like 5 sec, to minimize warpage. you'll be surprised on how effective this is. BTW the water will evaporate for before it rusts I don't know if I will finish of the beads - I got a bit of warpage already and I really took my time with this - I tacked the frame rails on one day and then welded them up on another, took me an entire day to run those intermitant beads - but still got some warpage! Doesn't cooling the beads that quickly make them brittle or does waiting 3-4sec's stop that? I literally learn't to weld 3-4mths ago, so still lots to learn !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Sikaflex. Also, they make some stuff that's more flexible, I don't know which product number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Doesn't cooling the beads that quickly make them brittle or does waiting 3-4sec's stop that? I literally learn't to weld 3-4mths ago, so still lots to learn !!! it does make it brittle, but thats when the you cool it while the crystalline structure of the metal isn't set yet. If the bead isn't glowing, then its good to cool. The objective isn't to cool the bead, but to cool affected metal around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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