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  2. Q's on FricFrac Ms setup and injector impedance

    Thanks Softopz for verifying. Ive' been off site for a while and since then installed 440cc high impedance injectors. I gather i did not have any sort of resistor pack since i did have PWM turned on before. Since the injector install, I turned off PWM and updated the REQ Fuel by using the calculator to 7.0. It started and ran a little rough but i held off running it long because i needed to address an exhaust leak near the o2 sensor. Softopsz, please PM me with a consulting rate. I would like you to verify some of my setting and ask you for a few tips and tricks.
  3. Mystery Big Valve Ported N42 Head.

    1976 Nissan Comp Catalog. Note Part # 13001-E4651. Big $$$ even in 1976.
  4. Mystery Big Valve Ported N42 Head.

    2012 Nissan Motorsports manual:
  5. Today
  6. ignition switch?

    Ok put new ignition switch in and same thing. disconnect ignition switch no change. I unplug and plug in again alt. and get a slight sound change but all stays on. Brake lights work but not bright, headlights not at all. Sorry not good with multi meter.
  7. Mystery Big Valve Ported N42 Head.

    Biggest issue is with a reground Cam, you are " lift limited " by the duration profile. To get more duration at the Nose, you have to grind the Peak or Toe of the Cam. That means you've now reduced the effective " Lift " of the Cam. To get the Lift back, you have to reduce the Base-Circle Diameter or Heel of the cam. You can only go so small with a Base Circle, before you start running into geometry and Valve acceleration issues. Make the Acceleration and Deceleration ramps too aggressive, and you end up with Valve Train instability and short component life. On some re-grinds, they have to " undercut " the core diameter of the Camshaft. That means that they actually reduce the diameter of the Camshaft BETWEEN the Lobes in an effort to get the Base Circle diameter smaller. Of course that can weaken the camshaft core as well. Now, if you start off with an unground new " Billet " camshaft you can get a LOT more lift and duration than a regrinds. Because you have all that extra metal to use on the Profile. It's not unusual to see Datsun L series Race cams ground on a fresh cam Billet having .600" + Valve lift ( 1.54 Rocker ratio ) . That would be impossible on a reground Camshaft.
  8. Thanks for the kind words Vanilla. I spent most of the day today getting the passenger side door hoop bent. It really fought me. To make it fit decently, bends in multiple planes are necessary, and each subsequent bend affects the angles of prior bends. It had me pulling my hair out, but on my fifth try I was finally satisfied with the fit. And of course, all the FAILS:

    Which side?
  10. yes and although both are acting different, both could still be moving improperly. As mentioned, would be good to see what needles you have and watch the pistons when you apply throttle. The interesting part is that it backfires out of both carbs. Not a lean condition in just one set of cylinders. (1,2,3 vs 4,5,6) couple other potential culprits. 1) Make sure you have no vaccum leaks and that both Vac and Mech advance is working. I'm sure you have checked this but never hurts to check 3 times. A vac leak is of course going to cause lean cond and not allow and changes you make in the carb tuning to take effect. Don't only check the hoses. There are so many intefaces to check compared to other engines (car to insulator blocks, blocks to intake runners, intake runners to manifold, etc) 2) If you think that you have a non-stock cam, do you know if it is degreed right (Cam timing)? Did the car ever run right? Wonder what kind of overlap you have.
  11. LS1 A/C

    Been looking at a lot of ls swap posts, and reading build threads with no luck. Can someone point me in the right direction. Looking for a A/C install with pics of hoses, compressor, condenser & receiver drier. trying to see how you ls1 guys are installing these components thanks.
  12. Boost control

    Hmm, it is a pneumatic part. I'll put some pneumatic oil in there and see if I can get it to reliably fire, if not looks like I might be placing an order with you for a replacement
  13. Turn Signal Issues

    I don't know what trouble shooting you have done so far. Did you check/replace blinker relay? Did you check turn signal switch itself(combo switch)? Isn't it worn out connection point?
  14. Turn Signal Issues

    1. What year is your Z? 2. Did you check the fuse panel? 3. Typically, the problem you have is caused by the turn signal and/or the light switch. Many "how to" posts on switch repair here and on the internet. 4. Information: http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/services/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/ Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf
  15. Boost control

    Could be the solenoid is failing mechanically, but it might respond well to a bit of machine oil in all the ports. I've seen times where they "stick" and some oil frees them up.
  16. 240z clutch pedal.

    PM'ed you.
  17. 240z clutch pedal.

    Looking for a clutch pedal for an s30. I think they are all the same. Thank you!
  18. Mystery Big Valve Ported N42 Head.

    Damn- I thought my ISKY 490 was big league need to up my game !
  19. Mystery Big Valve Ported N42 Head.

    I run that cam too - no piston clearance issues, but I did have to be very careful to maintain adequate clearance between the stem seals and the bottom of the valve spring retainers at max lift. Regarding the flow numbers, at .485 lift you are into the flatter part of the flow curve, so it should work just fine for you. A higher lift cam would net you a bit more flow, but mostly by spending more time in the "flat" portion of the flow curve. I believe that the more "mainstream" cams have lower lift because that leaves more margin for error for less experienced builders. They will work with stock valve springs and there is still ample clearance between the retainer and the stem seal, for instance. They will generally just "bolt in" and work.
  20. Turn Signal Issues

    Assuming that you have an S30 (i.e. 240, 260, 280z)? Sounds like there might be a couple of issues going on. For starters, anytime someone has issues with the lights, first thing to check is make sure you have good grounds. There are a couple of electrical grounds for the taillights, so make sure you check them all....remove the screws, clean the metal connector, inspect for good connection with the wire, and clean the metal that it's connected to. A little sandpaper and cleaning solvent is all you need. Next, remove your turn signal switch/combination switch and clean it as necessary. Usually best to disassemble it to give it a proper cleaning. While you're at it, check that the electrical plugs connecting to the switches all have good strong, clean connections. Most of these are inside, or adjacent to, the steering column clamshell cover. Finally, check that you have good flashers for the signals....they are mounted under the dash, near your left knee. If you don't already have the FSM for your year and model, download it here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html.
  21. Ross' Sleeper Z

    I'd say the fit was reasonably acceptable only after I cut away most of the existing frame rail. Even then both the original and BadDog rails required quite a bit of tweaking/panel beating. Thanks! I have a small bit of welding left to do on the passenger side. Next will be treating it all with Ospho followed by primer, paint and 3M rubberized undercoating underneath.
  22. WTB: Datsun Competition Steering Wheel

    I think the last link you posted might be a replica of the original Datsun comp. I would stay away from those since I've seen them snap on people. Just a heads up.
  23. Hi from Arizona

    Hello, welcome to the community.
  24. Solid axle rear conversion.

    Why should someone go back in time? Maybe just my opinion.
  25. Finally sprayed my Z

    That looks great! Impressive paint job.
  26. Turn Signal Issues

    Hello all! I have a question for you. I have been doing a carb conversion so electrical has taken a backseat. I have have been working on rewiring and installing some led headlights and finally got to get the turn signals. I have done some hunting through the forums and thought I would ask just to get some expert advice on my particular situation. My turn signals do not work in either position, no lights on the dash or from the markers. Hazard switch worked before. Still turns on and runs the left blinker only. I am making the assumption that I have a connection issue at the switch since neither position works. Will a issue at the switch explain why the hazard will run the dash and signal lights for the left only or would there be a second issue? What is the best plan of attack? Thanks in advance for all of your help!
  27. Hello! When I was about 12 years old It was a good old racing game named Tokyo Xtreme racer 2. The best car was 240Z (devilZ). Since I love it. I've got on this site accidentally when finding an information about Mull.tk Project Z (may be somebody hear about). I've seen some videos on youtube a couple of years ago. But as I understand it's not finished yet. What about I am? I'm just read some logbooks on this forum and I was amazed. I so excited of quality & accuracy of bodyworks on every project. And I decided to register just to follow on project like yours. I have my own project, it's 1982 Lada 2101 (Zhigouli). I have to teach some tricks and decisions in body repair from all of you. I wish you luck in your beginning! (Sorry, my English is not so good((( )
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