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  1. Today
  2. M_Dragan

    Use of a torque plate?

    Okay cool. Sorry for replying so late, I've been on vacation. I ended up finding my head gasket but I have just a couple more questions for you if you don't mind answering them. 1: what do you clean off the black head gasket stuff with from the old gasket? Scrubbing it with dawn and a scrubbing sponge does minimal. 2: Should I tell my machinist to also torque down my main caps? I've heard from some people that it's necessary.
  3. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    The front and rear suspension is almost completely finished. We started by attaching the knuckles to the ball joints: Next, we attached the new Eibach springs attached the knuckle/ ball joint assembly to the strut housing: We also assembled the steering rack with as close to factory alignment settings as I could. Then, put it all together: The rear suspension went in pretty easily as well: I also started working on the engine bay to get rid of the rust and make it clean looking:
  4. Yesterday
  5. We Bad

    Chevy 90 degree V6

    Those interested in how a "much-closer-to-stock" 4.3L V6 performs might be interested in this article from September 2017. https://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech/4-3l-storm-warning-v8-power-from-your-v6/
  6. Setting the geometry up to get what you want at nominal ride height and steer is simple enough but one of the big complications you're not factoring in is that the virtual pivot/kingpin axis moves around during steer, unlike the single arm setup. If you look back at the Pontiac video, this can be visualized really easily and you can see that scrub increases on the inside tire and decreases on the outside during steer, in this case. Also, caster drops on the outside and increases on the inside. The two things you don't want. However, going to a split-lower arm on an S30 would result in a compression link setup instead of tension link, as Pontiac (Holden) has done, so I bet the resulting geometry would be more favorable regarding caster and scrub. Still, a full kinematic sweep is needed (ideally K&C) to be sure you're getting the effects you want. As an aside, TC rod positioning on the control arm does have an effect on geometry, e.g. caster gain (therefore kinematic anti-dive) and bump steer. It can be seem as a sort-of front semi-trailing (leading) arm. This is minutia in the sandbox that we're playing in but worth noting that it does do something.
  7. Hey guys I need some help with my fuel line routing. I've read quite a bit on what should go where but it gets confusing with so many different set-ups people run and how they choose to route things. Not a lot of diagrams out there either, without seeing it I gets confused. So my issue is after a long 45 min+ drive the fuel pump is humming pretty darn loud. If I shut the car off and turn it back on the hum is still there. I have a mesh filter pre fuel pump which I need to open up and investigate still to make sure there's no blockages. I drew out my fuel line routing because I don't think this is how it should be. I know my feed and return is fine but is what I have blocked off ok or should something be switched around?
  8. JSM

    70-78 Z Car Shell Wanted

    Hey Jeff, there is a guy in Daytona that had two 280z shells, now one. It is just the shell and had rust. No doors, fenders, hatch, etc stripped. It was on Craigslist but expired. I texted Ted him and he said he could get some pics. If you want his number PM. He only wanted $300 or $400 and had titles I think. Prices have sky rocketed. I looked at two 280z recently complete, rust and $2500 each. 6 years ago I paid $200 and $400 for similarly shaped cars.
  9. caperix

    Questions on stub axle eliminators

    I agree that Arizona z cars website needs some work. I am leaning towards the techno toy tuning set up. It has the hole for the parking brake so r32 internal parking brakes can be used or you can run 240sx caliper mounted parking brakes. I need to contact them & find out if their struts use the same cartridge as the 280 struts & if they can still be easily sectioned for lowering.
  10. joey.youssef

    Cylinder Head Flow Numbers

    I've seen Bryan Blake's graphs before. One thing I found interesting is that most people say that there is no point of going over .460" lift without having a professional port job because the heads don't flow anymore at the higher lifts. But looking at Blake's graphs, the P90 stock head still flows a lot past .450" all the way up to .550" lift. I was hoping more people can show there stock flow numbers before porting to compare.
  11. Nope nope nope. Derek won't be lifting anyones port work nor will he be offering a "race version" so lets nip that right in the bud. I'm done with versions and design changes. This is the final version. It's amazing how even minor changes in a design can lead to a ton of extra work in downstream operations.
  12. 1969honda

    Hood Designs

    @rooger82 that's the one, just one piece. Planning on doing one when I get back on the z project, but if price and timing is right I'll bite instead of build.
  13. seattlejester

    280SR-Z from Germany

    ^Help us Americans out!
  14. seattlejester


    The new surge tanks are pretty crazy. I think Stealth or Radium make one with a built in regulator as well.
  15. I recently was back in the states rejuvenating a 66 T-Bird with an FI-Tech EFI conversion. It's like Atomic EFI, one of those with the computer and everything in the four barrel body. I was VERY impressed at the build quality and utility of their 'Command Center 2' fuel surge tank. It's got gauges, nice fittings, submerged fuel pump, and was really easy to put into place. For all the hassle of making up a dumb tank that is just a swirl pot, this one has a pump that will support 600 hp and a matched pump for the back of the car to push the fuel up to it from a carbed tank...quiet quiet quiet too! it's at Jegs and Summit, around $395. The difference in this thing is that it LOOKS like it's supposed to be under the hood. In the T-Bird it looked like a piece of A/C Gear. They have a dual-pump surge tank, and a regular surge tank ($299) which also have a nice, finished OEM Look to them. The return fitting is absolutely genius, being an aluminum threaded bung with a crush sleeve, drill a hole in your tank, slip the sealing washer in place, tighten the bolt and it pulls up the bottom of the fitting tight against your tank (or fuel filler neck...) tightly similar to how a pop-rivet or nutzert works, remove the bolt once tight, and screw in your AN fitting! Easy as falling over! https://fitechefi.com/products/40004/
  16. Tony D

    Patton Machine EFI

    I recently got four boxes in the mail from Rick...after 10 years he finally got back the last of my SU Body Samples to me! Trust me when I say, Rick Patton can supply an adapter for ANY Datsun SU from 65 through 78! I know, I sent him a pair of each to make samples from...this will also apply to Isuzu, Toyota, and many other Japanese cars that used Hitachi-Produced SU's during that timeframe. Yes, you could put these on a roadster, he has the patterns to do it! One incident of my hoarde being used for the betterment of the rest of Datsun-dom!
  17. VINs are not necessarily sequential in the first year of production, there were times where chassis were put back on the line after 'sitting on the side' for whatever reason was repaired and then went forward with production and completion. I had a car in Japan, S30-110661 which was an early car (No Center Console, Blanked radio and Clock, No Chrome Trim Window rubbers, 240 Dash, Tail Lights, with 100L Fuel Tank Option only offered in the early models) It's the only one that late I have ever found, most are 260-Pattern Chassis starting at S30-108XXX, and this jibes with the official production records maintained by Nissan as well. THAT is a quandary, much more so than an early number having a later production date. A later VIN having earlier characteristics smacks of 'special build'...
  18. You index the cam lobes for a six cylinder firing sequence, and use the Honda Profile. The CC of the cylinder is similar and it will work reasonably well out of the gate. The Rod-Stroke and piston position should come into a proper lobe design, but I forecast that the Hondas will be close enough on an 89mm bore due to strokes being almost identical that they will work without any major modification (like I've mentioned before, there was 500 hours a year on transpacific flights in Coach that I had considering a LOT of variables before deciding on the K20 as the example to emulate!) These are symetric profiles in many cases. If you get radical with some of the assymetric cam profiles available for Hondas out there, all you need to do is specify the cam be ground for 'reverse rotation' as these cams actually spin opposite of the way they spin in the Honda application. Not an issue on symetric bumplobes, but it does matter on the assymetric stuff. Once on the cam grinding machine, they index for a six cylinder with the cam profile blanks indexed...and now I'm talking out my arse due to age because I'm almost betting the old tracer profile grinders used back in the 70's and 80's are not used in the USA at these new high production shops anymore, and they have CNC lobe profiles they simply specify and then grind on a six cylinder firing order cam blank... no more metal profiles clamped in a tracer profile slot on the grinder...
  19. I am EXTREMELY happy that someone has availed of the CNC porting experience that is out there on the K20 Head, this is EXACTLY as intentioned! The only thing remaining is for Derek to ship him a kit of Red and Blue colored expanding silicone foam to do the intake and exhaust ports once ported so he can scan them and incorporate them as a "Race Ported' option with accompanying flow expectations... You can do this with the sand print technology. This pleases me greatly.
  20. Tony D

    Turbo race car, high or low compression ratio?

    Run your 8:1 compression. Spend your money on a proper porting and cam, as well as a properly matched turbocharger to make that power at as low a boost pressure as possible and you will be very happy with the results (though you may be revving to 6,500~6,700 due to how it pulls. This is a case where a cam that supposedly peaks at 7,500 or closer to 8,000 will pay big dividends because of it's high lift breathing down low. It is entirely possible to make 350hp at 8psi in an L28 without boring or stroking. Or an intercooler...but it's good insurance... With an RPM cap of ony 6,000-7.000 there is no reason to run bigger than a 0.63 (stock) turbine side A/R. Preserve your boost onset as low as possible, the torque you will be rewarded with will be prodigious. There will be no 'lag' so to speak but expect 4-5 mpg on-track. Horsepower costs fuel, period. This goes for a Geo Metro. Yes, you can get 5 mpg in a Geo Metro if you are using all it's horsepower, the ratios of air to fuel don't change, the Z will just be going much faster than the Geo getting the same mileage...LOL
  21. Tony D

    Cylinder Head Flow Numbers

    OSG TC24B1 head is similar to the KA24 Stock, BTW. With porting it will go to 320 cfm per PMC in Australia. Datsunworks head is 290 or so rought cast, and around 320 after an 80-Grit flapper wheels cleanup of the as-cast ports.
  22. Arif

    Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Equizyme unfortunately everyone pulled out of the buy. I refunded everyone's money last week. If you haven't received yours let me know.
  23. rturbo 930

    280SR-Z from Germany

    Rule #5 guys, I normally woudn't care, but a huge chunk of this thread is in German.
  24. NewZed

    Questions on stub axle eliminators

    AZC says drive shafts aren't ready yet. But then their whole web site is from the 90's so who knows. Good luck. http://arizonazcar.com/strassy.html
  25. Inner control arm pivot height: 5.5" Ball Joint height: 6" Control arm length: 11.5" Clearance to xmember: 2 3/4"
  26. Last week
  27. caperix

    Questions on stub axle eliminators

    It feels like the factory stub axles & axles would still be a time bomb, especially on a lowered car due to the u joint angles. I worry it would be like running a t5, there are many who have run them into the 10's but at that point they will fail catastrophically. I am thinking a little extra money spent at this point may save me down the road. I would still like some input from anyone running these setups. How are they holding up, what brakes are you running?
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