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  1. Today
  2. Invincibleextremes

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    I have a thread in the braking forum about the front, but I'm using 2014 mustang spindles mounted on 2004 srt4 coilovers... The srt4 coilovers are being used front and back, and the 2014 mustang brakes are being used front and back, and the diff hubs and axles are 2015 mustang. I'm sure guys like you really appreciate the systems being complete off one car, not mismatched like prior offerings using custom struts and other budget blowing things.
  3. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Definitely interested!
  4. gmorrone1214

    Building MS2 V3 Board

    About to start up the car this weekend, just have to finishing wiring the distributor and the fuel pump and then its good to go. May be a dumb question but wiring the distributor as per this diagram ----The 12v+(B/W): Guessing this is switched? I am using the relay board, so is there any slots I can plug it into or just find a random 12v switch wire?
  5. mtnickel

    Z31T axle swap CAN fit

    Hi guys, Just thought I'd finally post some of my findings here since this is ultimately the place where I learned everything there is to know about technical aspects of the Z-car. So i present, the making of a z31 adapter. I realize this has definitely been done before and I'm not claiming to be the originator, but I never saw any measurements, or calculations and started from scratch instead. The following may not flow very well as most of it is from the instruction guide I made, but I tried to quickly edit as best I could. Background So there’s been a lot of information going back and forth about whether Z31 turbo axles will fit in the S30 chassis. Companion flanges, cage flipping, and then even custom shorter axles to be swapped in…which work, which don’t? Do the axles bind? etc. I’m trying to dispel at least some of the rumors/hearsay. Here is what I’ve found on my early 260z (I haven’t measured on 240z, or 280z, but I have a suspicion that the pickup points and axle clearances are all the same). Stock Axles compared to Z31T I took a measurement of the length of the stock axles while on the car at ride height. I then compared that side by side to stock Z31T axles. It was quickly apparent that it was going to be very close. The driverside looked to have some room, but the passenger side was as long as the axle if not just slightly longer. Driverside: Passenger side (centering lip is very close...hard to tell from pic). The Adapter Requirements Once I saw these measurements, I knew that if Z31T axles were to work, the companion adapter needed to be as far out as possible. Hence we aimed to make the adapter so that it is flush with the stock outboard flange. Here's how it turned out: Test Fitting With the adapters welded up, we then threw them on the car to check fitment. The axles are actually at their tightest point in full droop. Many have stated that when the axles get parallel/straight, they are longest and can bind, thus changing spring rate, wearing diff bearings, etc. They absolutely are not tightest there. I took the springs out, fitted everything up and during testing binding occurred in the lowest 1-2” of travel. Moving the hub upwards resulted in more clearance. I believe this is due to 1 of 2 reasons The axle and control arm are not parallel. I think closer to full droop, the control arm is pulling the hub closer to the diff at a faster rate than axle is. (in picture, all lines are the same and the distance between the 2 line end points (simulating lower arm and axle) is kept the same. The dotted line is aprox where the strut might be. So at full droop, the strut pulls in faster and leaves more of the axle out to bind against the strut) When the axle is parallel, the cage ends are also square, but as they get more angular, the axle may actually get slightly longer. It’s the same reason when the box below couldn’t be removed between 2 fixed walls without it becoming longer first. Comparing the fit on both sides, we find the passenger side is the tighter fitting axle. With the OEMZ31T axles, technically the driverside would be ok without flipping the cage, but you may as well flip the cage since you’re having to do the passenger side anyways. The passenger side OEM axle binds up during the lower 2” of droop. It binds so much so that you can’t even get the axle in when the car is jacked up. Flipping the cage gave enough clearance to both get the axle in and have a little give. Once closer to ride height, the clearance increases further and even at full compression there is lots of clearance. ROCK AUTO axles: These axles use the tripod design of the 280zx Turbo axle I believe (or maybe NA 300zx as well, don’t quote me on this. All I know is its not the same design as the OEM Turbo Z31 axles. Because it’s a different design, there are actually no cages to flip, so nothing can be done to these axles to make them shorter. Thankfully they fit as is and are just that little bit shorter than the OEM axles. So, Don’t bother popping the grease cap, as you’ll just find nothing to flip. Cage Flipping Details The cage flipping saves about 3.5mm of clearance (a little over 1/8”) no more.See the space between the cage and the axle end. This is the total amount of clearance we gain. After the cage is flipped, the axle end becomes the longest point. 1) Put your axle in a vise. 2) Grab the cv end and raise and lower effectively hammering the cage into the grease cap. You don’t pry the cap out with tools, but rather use the internals of the axle to pop it out. Use care here, as the first one I did shot the cap off spraying grease all over my friend. Haha. 3) Slide the outer cv cage down as far as you can. Mine inverted the seal a bit and stayed down there. You want to have access to the cage and balls. 4) I taped up the CV to ensure that while I was wrestling to remove it, the balls wouldn’t go flying into the dirt and grime on my floor. In hindsight however, the balls are a fairly tight fit and won't come out without a little persuasion. I found that out when I ended up rebuilding the whole axle as I didn't like the consistency of the grease and realized I shouldn't have mixed so much redline synthetic grease with the stock stuff. Probably for the best. 5) Take off the C-clip 6) Slide the entire cage off the axle. It may be a little stuck, so do what you can to pop it off (small plastic mallet, etc). 7) Turn the cage assembly around, and reinstall…should look like picture on the right. (I also ground the axle down, but this is not needed and you risk ruining the hardened temper if you don’t do it slow). 😎 You may at this point repack the unit with grease (compatible) as best you can. I ended up grinding the end of the axle a little as I wasn't sure how much room I would need. Not necessary however and perhaps can risk ruining the surface hardening of the splines if you're not careful. Rockauto axles are a lot thinner too: Grinding Stub Axle For the low profile adapter to provide all the clearance we need, you actually need to grind the stock stub axle down a little. See the nub sticking out from the flange? It would dig into our grease cap if we didn’t grind it off, so grind it down till it’s flush with the flange (use a straightedge to check for high points). There should be plenty of the staked portion of the nut still to keep that nut tight. Flange Welding and Preparation We ran into an issue after welding up our first set of adapters; the square flange on the Datsun hub is actually not very concentric. That is, the square doesn’t run true to the center of the axle assembly. Therefore if you just slip the adapter onto the square flange as best you can and go from there you may end up with it rotating on a ‘wobble’. I think we had something like 0.040" of runout by centering the adapter on the square portion of the flange. So it takes a little time and thought to make the flange concentric with the rotational axis. A dial gauge is ideal, but you could get it pretty close if you're good with some calipers: The stock centering hole can be pretty rough so it's tough to get it dead nuts. Plus when you tack it can pull the flange to one side. I recommend to shim it with paper or even shim stock if you have it, prior to tacking. Also, if you tack with the 309, it has enough give that you can give it a few whacks with the hammer to shift it a few thou one way or another. We ended up making a few more sets and didn't like all the fiddling, so we made a cool jig that locates the flange on both the stock axle ring and the new flange ring. Plus it bolts down to keep it flat to avoid warping. I could probably rent this thing out to anyone doing the job provided the leave a deposit and pay for shipping and such: Welding The machinist friend who made these with me said if we are going to sell any of these things, people gotta Tig weld them. Whether or not that's essential, I don't know, but I'll take his advice. It at least assures the welder has some experience and will know how to handle welding to cast. (remember the stock companion flange is from a cast piece). He said to use 309 filler. After all is said and done, these axles can be used without worry. I'm not sure how deep the MM flanges are or any others for that matter, but I do know its a pretty tight fit even with grinding the stub and flipping the cage. Although more clearance is had when the car rests on it's weight, so success can vary. Here's a few more shots of when we made both the first set and a bigger batch. To machine the backside, we cut the profile into those blank set of aluminum jaws. Here's the test fit on the driverside with the cage flipped and the axle slightly ground down. You can see from the amount of clearance, I didn't need to grind the axle down: Here's additional shot of one customer who had old school guy MIG weld it. If you can mig like this, pre-heat and avoid cracks, keep the flange centered, and keep it flat (bolted down), then it would probably work too: Sorry this is such a jumble of info...hope some find it useful. Happy to answer any questions. Cheers, Mark
  6. I make weld on adapters now that basically do not add any width to where the stock square companion flange sits. You even need to lightly grind the stub axle so it's flush with the companion flange. I ran both sides through their entire suspension travel. Contrary to popular belief, the axle is tightest and most likely to bind at full droop. Even with my adapters, both sides need the CV cages flipped to be safe. The adapters also work with the Rock auto reman z31 turbo axles, though they are not nearly as strong as the OE nissan ones. They in turn use the 280zx tripod style CV and there is no cage to be flipped. Luckily they are ever so slightly shorter and still work with the adapters. I'll try and get a for sale post or thread up one of these days. Can find me on DPAN. Mark
  7. mtnickel

    R200 mustache bar..

    i have an extra bushing kit (poly).
  8. Hey Everybody, Trying to organize some kind of meet up/race day with the fine folks of the pacific northwest! There are a handful of events that will likely work, so I'm throwing out some dates to see if there is any interest. The obvious site is in Packwood, WA. Phenomenal site, huge courses, free on site camping and equidistant from PDX and Seattle. Oregon Region SCCA has a few more events up there this year that might work well. Possible dates for a race day: August 11/12 September 15/16 Let me know if there's interest, I'll be there either way!
  9. nismo_zxt

    1989 300zx NA 5 speed ECU

    Price drop at 80$ including shipping anywhere in the 48 states and Canada. This think as to go, it taking dust.
  10. nismo_zxt

    HKS Standard Bypass Valve (Blow-Off)

    Price drop at 100$ including shipping anywhere in the 48 states and Canada. This think as to go, it taking dust.
  11. jhill

    WTB LONEWOLF INTAKE

    Looking for a lonewolf intake manifold or a custom substitute. Appearance is not a concern. Will pay the correct price for the part. Thanks guys!
  12. Yesterday
  13. seattlejester

    Saturn Electric Power Steering In A Datsun 280Z

    I'm following in socorob's foot steps. I think it would be appropriate to add things here. If you want me to make my own thread I'm happy to do so, but I think adding onto this may be useful. So some things I've found: That joint from woodward steering isn't really sold anywhere else. You have to order it through them, and they do not have an online store so you have to call them or e-mail them to order. Joint was $86.25. about $70 for the part and apparently the remaining was shipping. Not bad for the exact piece you need. The R18Z bearing is a 1-1/8 inch ID, 2-1/8 inch OD bearing. The R18 is the designation for the bearing dimensions the Z stands for single shield, 2Z or ZZ stands for double shield. They have a variant with I think R as in R18R which has a rubber seal instead of the metal shield. If you were being super correct about it you would probably order an R18 open, weld as needed, and then fill the bearings with grease and close it off with boots on both ends. Socorob also put in a butt load of work finding that exhaust pipe and part number. Strangely enough the 2-1/8th inch OD for the bearing makes finding a tube with an ID of a similar size very difficult to find. My local supplier has it in stock, but wants $20+ per foot. You can buy a thick wall tube of smaller diameter and use the correct bit to ream it out to 2/18 at the depth of the bearing and find a cap for a perfect fit, but most likely not worth the effort. You can order the 3/4 DD shaft in 18 inch length on amazon which seems almost perfect. The bruno controller can be purchased on ebay for $45 + 10$ shipping. I would suggest picking this up potentially soon if you have any thoughts. He seems to be populating/building a website and the prices are quite a bit higher at $85 for the basic controller. He also seems to be adjusting prices as some prices changed over the weekend. The website is epowersteering.com if I'm not mistaken. He also offers 3 options for just the controller: One is the basic kit with the separate potentiometer. Two is the advance kit which has a built in potentiometer. Three is the pro kit which has no potentiometer. This one apparently reads input and adjusts the assistance. In an e-mail conversation he suggested sticking with the basic kit for spirited driving. Most likely a savings over the advanced kit and the pro kit has a delay before reacting which may throw someone who is doing a quick correction off as the effort varies in say a fast chicane. Hoping to order the last of the parts and grab some columns tomorrow. I have a stock column that I'll be making a jig off of and using thanks to zetsaz
  14. Well I got it... After a full day of heating and working at it, I figured it out. I tried going at it with compressed air but that had no effect. My next to last Idea was to attack it with the grease gun. Napa has 10x1.00mm grease zerks (part number 715-2008) that I was able to mount on the ends. after attaching the grease gun to it and pumping it a few times, the plunger shifted. After that, I applied the blow torch and continued to pump with the grease gun until the end popped out sending burnt grease everywhere. it is now going to soak in the cleaner overnight again and tomorrow, I will clean up the bore and hopefully replace the seals. 77, DATSUN!!! (for real, make???), 280z 2+2.
  15. The windshield is the same AFAIK (I believe it uses a different seal, but the glass is identical). Essentially, everything 100% forward of the shifter is the same, as well as the entire driveline (minus prop shaft). Everything else (may be some exceptions) is 2+2 specific.
  16. neruve

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Well, mad props to you for trying to keep it affordable! The tacked kit would be awesome for your budget people like myself. I have several friends with TIGs. I'll definitely keep my eye on this thread. What are you using for the front setup. I have often though about just putting an SN95 strut/spindle in the front for 13" corbra brakes cheap. Just haven't gotten around to doing it yet.
  17. Most everything on the back half of the 2+2 is different. The windshield, doors, hatch rear quarters and all interior panels plus more. However, if you do buy it and want, I will take those parts off your hands for free.
  18. Home Built by Jeff

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    It took a lot longer than I had hoped, but I finally get the body work finished and get into painting some high fill.
  19. jhm

    Stock front sway bar - $20 USD!

    Sold. Thx to all who were interested. Admins can delete the post, if so desired.
  20. Invincibleextremes

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Well here's what I'm thinking, if I get all the bits, laser cut, tack them together using a jig I'll built so each piece is the same, and then have them professionally welded (Not by me) I'm looking at around 200 per upright and ballpark 500 for a complete cradle set up to use the factory 2015 mustang bushings. Now, but I can probably do drastically better than that for just a tacked together setup for the guys who trust their own welding... or want to have them welded by a friend of theirs etc. I can tack it all up in the jig and ship it out. Not 100% sure yet as I'm not sure on the amount of work it'll take, and the expenses of producing it all, but that's the idea.
  21. Robzzzz

    Parts

    I have a few parts on Craigslist and was wondering what fair prices would be. A set of early doors with glass. A set of headlight buckets with mount/adjuster housings. Rear hatch with glass. Fuel injection manifold with fuel rail. Quarter windows with chrome frame. 4 SU round top carbs (3 screw type)
  22. Does anyone know how to disasimble these? I have tried everything that I know of, wd40, heat, soaking in paint thinner... I can't get the cone out that goes to the front in order to get the plunger out.
  23. NewZed

    R200 mustache bar..

    I have a bar but no bushings. It's used, from a 1978 parts car. Which side of WA are you on. Dry or wet? Edit - just noticed Walla Walla. So, shipping probably required.
  24. cgsheen

    Turn Signals - Key Off?

    Flashers do, turn signals do not.
  25. Curtball

    Tons of body kits for sale!!

    Do you happen to just have a g-nose lover valence?
  26. wallawallaacre

    R200 mustache bar..

    Looking for an R200 Mustache bar and Bushings..Anybody got one ?? Thanks in advance
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