Jump to content
HybridZ
  • Member Statistics

    28716
    Total Members
    809
    Most Online
    Z260zf
    Newest Member
    Z260zf
    Joined

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. primaz

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    That is GREAT! My car is a pretty extreme wide body, right now it has old BBS racing three piece 15 x13 and 15 x11 rims with 345's and 285's with half inch spacers so there is even more room to put a wider tire but nobody makes one. Now that 15" rims are old school my tire choices are almost nil so I am going to buy new three piece CCW's either 17 or 18" or look into what options I can do on re-barreling the BBS as those rims are cool but I am not sure if that process will allow me to go up to a 17" or ? I was going to go with 1000 HP but talking to Dave at RIPS Racing I think for long term reliability I will go with their RB34 that will put down 750-850 HP as those versions are doing well as daily drivers in client cars in the UK; unless Dave says that I can go more HP and still be a daily driver? Again keep up the work as I really would like your kit as I have not seen anything that anyone has the confidence can hold up to these big HP numbers. I hope you have a kit option that is bolt in for people like me that do not want to deal with welding anything, etc. and ideally have everything look well finished. I plan on getting my Primadonna Z car back on the car show circuit for the first year after it is done so I really want all of the parts to look show quality and nice besides being super reliable for racing on the streets. So your kit will have everything to make the 8.8 bolt in and can I also use the Apex or TTT lower control arms with it? I look at your thread often and am eager to see you complete this kit!!!! Great job!!!
  3. Nismospek

    Tokico Shocks

    Don't think so, bought it a couple years back. Just disappointed because I had less than 2k miles on them.
  4. primaz

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    No, I am not Jack but I bought Jack's own car the Black Primadonna Z car and am currently updating it with a lighter body as well as bringing it back to show quality. That car was in numerous publications such as Z Car Enthusiast and others. I have never posted any website on the car but I have seen a number of people whom I have no clue whom they are, that have created website stories of the car, etc. which is a little weird but I guess cool? Jack won Oakland Roadster car show with the black Primadonna and after I bought it I put more money into it and it used to be on the car show circuit for a few years winning most shows. I have driven it pretty hard over the years so too many chips on the lacquer paint job so now after I finish our other two 240 Z cars will go a bit extreme on the Primadonna Z putting a ton of HP with a RIPS Racing RB Turbo 3.4 to be able to go over 200 MPH as well as be back to an ISCA car show quality car again. NewZed, that link you shared is the white Primadonna with the non boxed rear flares that Mike sold to Hoover Chan whom sold it to a guy in Florida and I guess sold it again. It looks in rather sad shape in those photos as the rear wing is missing a section that makes it complete. That car was never really a finished car as Mike designed that version with the extended windshield that goes out to the edge of the cowl and never had a finished interior to make it look clean since when you extend the windshield about 1 foot out you then have a bunch of unfinished sections that are now in the interior of the car. The black Primadonna was Jacks own car which was built a lot better in my opinion and uses the box rear flares so there is no bondo or filler to hold any of the panels on the body as every section bolts in and looks like it could have came that way from a factory. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** Getting back to my original post, I was trying to clarify what I was looking for. While it seems using the term "best" gets everyone emotional? Sorry for using "best" All I want is a completely well engineered kit to convert the car from half shafts to CV's that will bolt in. I commend you folks that are welders but I just want to know which one to purchase that is already engineered to bolt in. I am converting at least two 240Z in the very near term so I just want to avoid issues and do not want to buy something I regret. I greatly appreciate the responses that everyone has shared as each one is very informative. For me I do want to find what will just bolt in that will work well and be reliable. Both cars are just about complete so I really want to get both of them back on the street soon which is another reason for focusing on a bolt in upgrade to covert to CV's.
  5. Today
  6. Sandblasting complete. Welding, welding, more welding, then nascar bar install before suspension mock up.
  7. Leon

    Tokico Shocks

    You've lost the gas charge so it's done. Hope it's still under warranty...
  8. rooger82

    Hood Designs

    Hey everyone just looking for some input on what you guys would like to see on a hood. As we all know the Z market is hotter than ever so I am conducting a little market research as to what you guys would like. Louvered, Cowl, Ram air ducts, etc. If you guys have any pictures of hoods on other cars as examples that would be much appreciated too. Want to thank everyone in advance for any input given.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Looking at your cad drawing I have a couple suggestions. First is the strut tower to dash bar. Hitting the middle of the dash bar is not ideal because there is no load path. The BSR car had the tube from the middle of the dash to the main hoop. Also not the best, but a lot better than just ending in the middle of the dash bar. Built the way you drew it, it will probably be an improvement over no strut reinforcements, or reinforcements to the (weak) firewall, but a better idea is to do an X from the strut tower to the dash hoop, and then hit the dash hoop on the other side with the upper door bars. I don't know how much interior you're going to have but it's tight in that area. Also will probably have to have a plate on the inside of the firewall and then bolt in the part in the engine compartment so that you can take the engine out. I actually have the bars as you have them and I had to tweak the windshield wiper linkage to clear where they went through the cowl. Another issue is the shoulder bar is bent back for seat clearance (necessary if you're over about 5'7" or so. The problem is that your diagonal looks as thought it is bent back to the bent shoulder bar. That's illegal per SCCA, NASA, etc. You could put the diagonal in the main hoop and then put a short tube in to connect the diagonal to the shoulder bar, or you could do a straight bar across the pass side and then bend around the back of the driver's seat. I was also able to take bars from the bottom of the A pillar to the strut tower. It managed to squeak in without interfering with the clutch pedal. Not hard to do and the stronger the strut tower reinforcements are, the better.
  11. NewZed

    Tokico Shocks

    The rebound comes from the gas inside that is meant to help avoid foaming during heavy usage. It's actually a side-effect, not intentional. "Blown" would mean the seals are shot and fluid is leaking, or it's damaged internally and doesn't damp like it should. Does yours just not rebound as quickly or does it stay down?
  12. That is Sung Kang's car "Fugu Z" that won SEMA crowd favourite in 2015.
  13. Leon

    New Valves?

    In my case, they ate the OEM guides in about 1000 miles.
  14. vtdds71

    Electric power steering. $100 > $1500

    I installed the Z Power Steering kit in my '72 240Z last year. Had some space limitations, but managed to overcome them with enough patience, trial-and-error, custom made brackets, etc. Steering effort below 40 MPH is excellent - very easy to maneuver for parking, etc. My issue concerns higher-speed handling and "feel". No matter what level of "boost" is dialed into the system, my car feels very "light" in the front end, and lots of minute back and forth corrections are needed to keep the car on track. It almost feels as though there is some looseness, or rotational "play" in the steering column now, making precise corrections very difficult. There is one "sleeve connection" between a solid and hollow D-shaft that is not secured by any set screws, and I notice some rotational "play" originates there. When steered into a turn, the wheel just maintains the turned position, with no self-centering effect coming out of the turn. While the kit reduces steering effort dramatically, it also seems to impart some friction, or vague resistance, to the steering effort, that is difficult to describe. I'm trying to figure out if this is due to my personal installation, or if it is simply an inherent characteristic of the electric motor of the kit itself. Noteworthy is the fact that the motor unit itself wants to turn strongly in the opposite direction to the steering wheel, making it important to somehow firmly bracket the motor housing under the dash. The kit manufacturers have tried to help resolve these issues, but we are not there yet. For me, the "jury is still out" on this system, as I feel I may have traded some steering feel and precision for the reduced effort I wanted. Still hoping to find a solution, because the lowered steering effort at slow speed literally transforms the car. I'd really like to hear from others who have installed this particular system on their early Z's.
  15. jhm

    Tokico Shocks

    Yes, it sounds like that one is definitely gone if it compresses and stays compressed. From what I've seen, Tokicos produced in the last couple of years have been hit or miss quality. Bilsteins are a good affordable alternative if you don't feel like springing for Konis.
  16. Invincibleextremes

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    The super 8.8 in a nodular iron case will handle that no problem. And yes I will be offering a bolt in kit, that's the entire idea with this. My own personal goal is to have a street driven 1,000 plus hp 240z widebody with 275mm and 315mm tires, so our interests align, that's for sure.
  17. Miles

    VOLVO 850 FAN INSTALL

    Actually a few members have installed back up switches.
  18. seattlejester

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    The use of the word best is actually written into the forum rules, actually qualifies a post for the shed off the bat, but people are being very nice and informative with their responses. Just like your definition of best is quite different, like NewZed says a lot of members on here can weld and use a micrometer so best may be a matter of function rather than ease of assembly.
  19. If your serious about a full cage go old school, vintage BSR-260Z-IMSA design. Since my 280Z will be street driven like the OP's car I will most likely build something similar to Dan's Street Cage design. Love these old photos.
  20. NewZed

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    How did it become "famous"? I had to Google it and the stories seem to be from somebody talking about their own car. I'm not sure you're allowed to claim your own fame. Your description of wanting bolt-on only is why I tried to clarify. That's not what most people here would call best. They weld on a whim. I guess that you bought the black one? Or are you Jack? https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=19345
  21. Spoke With Edan today about his stage 4 kit and if it fit on 15" rims he said it fits on some but that i will have to grind the caliper down an bit and maybe install a space. Has anyone installed his stage 4 kit for rear disks with konig rewind 15x7 -0 rims? I want to know how much grinding they needed to do and what size spacers they needed... any input would be appreciated!
  22. seattlejester

    Boost control

    I can see if you put time into it you can get some cool results like have a turbo act like a super charger with gradual build of power, or boost by gear and such. Alternatively you could run a MBC and not mash the pedal to the floor everywhere you go. Interesting thing when I talked about it with, some people were still thinking the bleed type valves and were saying I should switch. Kind of shocks people when I tell them I went from an EBC to a MBC. Granted as stated my EBC never had a chance to work. I'm getting pretty close to bugging you. I want to do the trans swap and the power steering and maybe figure out a baffle or make a surge tank. Make sure all my ducks are in a row and all that.
  23. Chickenman

    Boost control

    Haa Haa . Just had a big argument on Guild Of EFI Tuners on why a simple MBC can sometimes be the easiest solution to Boost control on a DD. Big arguments that B&S MBC is archaic, didn't have Boost taper, Boost per gear, Traction management etc. Millennials couldn't grasp the fact that not everything has to be electronic. OP was fighting a Boost curve that wouldn't stay linear with his MS2 Boost management ( MS3 Boost management is much more sophisticated than MS2 ) I suggested a simple B&S MBC as that would be more than sufficient for HIS needs. Man you should have heard the whining and bitching from the Internet coaches.
  24. LLave

    VOLVO 850 FAN INSTALL

    I totally understand. I am considering wiring a manual override switch to a relay, just in case. But maybe that is a tad paranoid?
  25. nzarano

    Orange Airbox -- SOLD

    i have an early flapper airbox if people are still looking...
  26. rx4bills

    Circle Racing Wheels 16x9.5 zero offset

    Thanks for the info! I knew the bolt pattern was same for the Mk2 Supras and 240Z, center bores yes are quite different. Any idea if perhaps the 510 crowd might be able to use these? Oh, looks like 73mm is common through both models.
  27. mtnickel

    VOLVO 850 FAN INSTALL

    I ran the same Volvo Fan. Built a shroud from fibreglass...sort of a fun project. If you can find a parts volvo, The relay system on it is very robust; comes with nice connectors already and also provision for high and low speed fan control.
  1. Load more activity
×