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  2. It's easy to get misled on the injector connectors and voltage readings. When all six are connected, if you remove one measure voltage you'll see it on both pins. Because the injectors are on a parallel circuit. If all of the connectors are disconnected you'll only see it one side because the other 5 parallel circuits are broken. So it sounds like your injectors are getting proper power, which shows that the EFI relay is working correctly. The injectors don't get a "signal" the other side of the connector just gets grounded, allowing current to flow, creating a solenoid magnet, and causing the injectors to open. The grounding is done by the transistors in the ECU. The ECU "tracks" when to open the injectors by "counting" the sparks it sees on Pin #1 at the ECU connector. You want to be sure that Pin #1 is connected to the negative post of the coil. That's the signal that the ECU uses. You started the thread with a weird power problem, now you're in to the EFI system. Sometimes when a bunch of weird things are happening you have to go to a firm starting point and just start measuring things until you find a number that's not right. Here's a link to a really good troubleshooting guide for the EFI systems. Find 1978's procedure and start measuring. Get real numbers, and write them down. some thing will show up. The 1980 EFI Manual. It covers all years of EFI up to 1980. Yours in in there. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php
  3. I can say from personal experience that the factory clutch master cylinder will _not_ work, at least not with the LS6 clutch and pressure plate package that I used from Tick performance. I went with a 7/8" MC and the pedal feel is outstanding. Also my primaries are 1-7/8", 3" collector which I immediately stepped down to 2.5" to clear the transmission crossmember and keep the exhaust somewhat up inside of the tranny tunnel.
  4. If you look at the picture the clutch rod is 3/4" to the left of the clutch pedal. I will try and take a better picture.
  5. Today
  6. Still chasing this, I'm narrowed it down to the injector isn't getting a signal. I have spark and fuel pressure, the injectors just isn't firing. I'm getting 12v to one side of the injector connector ( the relay side) but not at the other side of the connector (which is the ecu side of the harness), I tried my ecu in an 77 I have here, that car run with my ecu. and vise versa At this point I need to confirm the ecu is getting adequate voltage, which is gets from the coil, which has 12V. I'm running out of ideas
  7. 78 280Z LS3 Project

    Thanks Richard, I get a lot of inspiration from you guys. Looks like we will be starting the motor this weekend then I should be on the road by the end of October if everything works as expected.
  8. 78 280Z LS3 Project

    Your attention to detail is great everything is done to such a high standard. Take pride in this, it is well deserved. Nice job. R
  9. Alternator wiring?

    Double check with LS1 tech. I used a Camaro alternator and did a resistor across the field wire and ran one wire to the battery. YOU NEED two cable one to the starter and one to the alternator. HTH, Richard.
  10. Building an L28 (NA)

    Glad yo were able to solve your fuel issues. the engine sounds awesome but how does it feel? is it everything you had hoped? Also 14 AFR at cruise seems fine to me why do you want to richen it up?
  11. Any pictures of intake manifold, would love to do something like that with a direct port nitrous set up.
  12. Hey all, Long time lurker, first-time poster. I am currently in the process of building an early 240z with a rb26 in it. I have just finished rebuilding my motor and mating it to the rb25 gearbox so I am in the process of getting it all mounted up in place. I am using the CXracing mount kit. I would have gone the McKinney kit but unfortunately here in Australia the dollar was low at the time of ordering so this was the only affordable one. Anyway, I have got the engine mounted up and am having trouble getting the gearbox up in the tunnel as the speedo sensor is interfering with the ears. I'm not sure the best way to go about fixing this issue. I have seen plenty of pics of peoples mods of notching out the bracket with the other style of tunnel mounting but I can't see any solutions that utilise the cx mounts I have. Has anyone come across and solved this problem at all? I have uploaded 2 pics of the interference, and also one of the mounts that I have that attaches between the ears. I have already tried just moving the engine forwards but the mounts are already set such that the engine is as far forward as possible. Any help would be much appreciated!!
  13. McKinney Engine & Gearbox Mount Alignment Issues?

    Has anyone done a mod like this for the rb25 speedo but with the other style of factory mount? Its not as simple as notching it for this as i need to retain the mounting hole. Any ideas?
  14. I'm having a hard time seeing any alignment/misalignment in the picture. The master cylinder should be directly inline with the pedal left/right, and should be pretty close to one of the holes in the pedal up/down. Here's a picture of the connection I lifted from atlanticz
  15. New topstage z kit

    Holy cow! That is gorgeous!
  16. I installed an after market Tilton clutch master cylinder, you can see in the picture the rod from the master cylinder does not line up with the clutch pedal. The rod is offset by about 3/4". The 240Z was missing the master cylinder, so I did not see how it was connected. How does the rod connect to the clutch pedal?
  17. 240Z LS3 TR6060 Build

    Just curious, I don't see any mention of it, but to fit the tr6060, did you need to modify the tunnel at all? did the shifter line up okay? any clearance issues at all?
  18. 1971 240z Project

    Picture size is fine. Better than having to click on each individual thumbnail.
  19. Help me value 280z with L28ET swap

    The little filler panel on the rear is only on 77-78 280Zs. It's spot welded on, and to remove it you (or body shop) will have to drill out the spot welds, smooth them out (be careful with the spot welder to make sure you don't end up with holes) and then you'll need to do a little painting. Not too big a deal, but not something you just unbolt and remove. If you are after something that is stockish, but with some suspension work and some more power, then I think this car would fit the bill pretty well. Hope it works out.
  20. **** it lost already

  21. VOLVO 850 FAN INSTALL

    94 -97 Volvo 850 electric fan Source: Summit Racing Dorman Electric Fans 620-883 $141.97 Painless Performance 30100 Electric 70 amp Fan Relay Kits p/n . $49 Comes with Maxi Fuse. Painless Performance p/n 30111 Fan Control, Thermostatic, 185 Degrees On/170 (grounding) $47.9 Works perfect. Custom 19" H x 19.5" W x 1.5" Deep aluminum shroud by Mike Tolle Fabrication, Sacramento, Ca. Replaces failed Flex- a- lite Black Magic fan on Arizona Z Cars radiator. See post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122990-arizona-z-cars-radiator/
  22. Yesterday
  23. 78 280Z LS3 Project

    Thank you, It's a K&N Air Filter RC-5171 it flows 1654 cfm and my motor requires 1038 cfm according to all the calculations we have done. It is a pretty good size but I wanted to make sure I was covered in case I increase the Nitrous shot. I angled it downwards a little in order not to obstruct the radiator too much.
  24. Drag racing suspension

    Here's a photo I found of the torque arm on a Miata. I can't attest to the effectiveness of it. The way I see it, no matter what the diff's behavior is going directly into the chassis itself so I can't see it doing much, not like with a live axle where the diff is a part of the suspension instead of the chassis. I would just use a RT mount to keep the nose of the diff stable. My car has been modified to use a Ford 8.8 and it's still a few years away from being able to test drive or anything, so I have nothing to back up my claims, just keep that in mind. haha.
  25. 1971 240z Project

    I've been doing a few things. I had a fuel leak from the mechanical fuel pump so I decided to go with an electric K & N. I've also done some work on the front valance, put in a Magnaflow muffler (I'm not sure I'll stick with it), and made a cover for the spare tire area. Also, I don't know how to make the pics smaller...
  26. Have you shipped any yet? I just moved and my address has changed.
  27. Well it runs and drives! I was covered in media material after the first drive, but well worth it. Doing a 4 wheel alignment in the garage this week and plan to hit the drag strip Fri and maybe an autocross Sun. The one drivetrain issue I'm still chasing down is a locker noise. I am running a yukon tru-trac locker in the rear and it likes to pop on decel. Some guys are saying this is normal, but it's pretty dang loud. I plan to add another 1/2 quart of fluid and see if that does anything...
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