Jump to content
HybridZ

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 10/19/17 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim
  2. 1 point
    Ecoboost is just Fords slick marketing term for "turbocharged". Which engines are having these problems? Ford has many turbo engines. Also, posting in all caps is for 8 year olds and 70 year olds. Please refrain from doing so.
  3. 1 point
    LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW
  4. 1 point
    I've been trying to follow the 20-80 rule lately with my car, especially when it comes to metal work. You see lots of full restorations that dig into every spot to make sure every inch of rust is taken car of, even smaller areas. That's either REALLY high dollar restoration or a decade's worth of work for busy people. For 20% the effort or cost you get 80% results. Restoration/power costs both tend to be an exponential curve and the point of diminishing returns is different for everyone. I'm aiming for 40-50% the effort of those insane restorations and hoping for a solid B+ level car the next several years. It won't be particularly fast, it won't be a show car, some rust will still be present and hidden, but the frame will be a bit stiffer, it'll have more power than stock, the paint will be presentable with some minor imperfections, and most importantly, it won't be in the garage until I'm in deeper than I can get out of and never enjoy it.
  5. 1 point
    There's nothing wrong with this S30. It's got damn every part that we all like to put on our cars that is currently offered by vendors out there right now. ...But there's nothing overly special about it either, other than it's well done. We have members on this forum that have more unique and interesting cars that were made on a much smaller budget in a 2 car garage than this thing.
  6. 1 point
    One more thing to say. Did you ever drive a Turbo Z? Im saying this because the "Funfactor" depends on where you drive. I have a 274 BHP N/A Z and a 450 AWHP BMW. on twisted roads the N/A Z is so much more fun to drive then the Turbo BMW. on a light signal start or highway its the Turbo. Drive both types if you can and see what suits you best. (Gear change point at 7500 N/A with the sound of tripples is one of the best things I ever had -->The smile is much bigger with the Z...).
  7. 1 point
    Found the problem. There is a relay attached to the motor which, I believe operates the parking system. Mine was toast. I bypassed it and now motor operates as long as I want. Just have to time shutting off wipers to park wipers correctly.
  8. 1 point
    Honestly for the effort involved just take it to the pros. I got all my strikers for hood , doors, trunks, ashtray, gas cap and ring plated for 40 or 50 $ locally here in Ottawa. I chose yellow for half the stuff and silver for the other half. They first acid dipped to remove any dirt and oils then gave them back to me just asked me to wire brush and clean off any paints to bring the cost down. I feel like getting everything zinc plated
  9. 1 point
    Yeah! After talking to a race shop that gave me the idea, I did some searching and found Ronin did that for miata swaps.
  10. 1 point
    " left side only , damaged ( crack ) , repairable and paintable " I didn't know you could paint your headlight covers!
  11. 1 point
    I've been running a Spartan for a while and have had zero issues. I had nothing but headaches with my Inovate LC-1. Probably killed 3 or 4 O2 sensors. Derek
  12. 1 point
    Iv already done a L28E swap and Z 5 speed conversion on my 84 810/Maxima but now i need help with suspension and differential upgrades also any suggestions on wheels sizes for best street/ Road coarse performance without haveing to cut the wheels wells stretching them is fine tho
  13. 1 point
    I am seeing a lot of references to bubble flares. Z cars should all be 10mm x 1.0 inverted flares. Bubble flares on a Z will leak.
  14. 1 point
    Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it's time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them) And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights: Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before: After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly and Nissan had a person with bad soldeirng skills for their soldeirng work *lol*): Then the hood stay / lock mechanics: So here are all the parts ready for replating. Still need to remove old paint (will do that tomorrow) before sending them. In case if you wonder how i remember where all the parts belong - What you see on this blog is actually just a small fraction of the pictures i make. I like to make all kind of "exploded view" shots like the ones above to remember the order they came in (FSM is wrong sometimes, or a bit unclear). And i also mark my pictures as seen here. When the parts return i will put them in the boxes again which belong to each part of the car
  15. 1 point
    I used Hoke Performance 240Z mounts for my late 260Z (280 chassis)with an LS1/T56 and it works fine. Hoke's new 280Z mounts offer more room for the exhaust system, I used Hawks (American Racing) headers and had to downsize the exhaust from the header 3" out to 2 1/2" then back to 3" to feed through the mounts. The 280 mounts should easily fit a full 3" system. It didn't seem to effect my power output though. The steering shaft is a tight fit through the headers too. As far as I can tell it doesn't rub. The other problem I had was the LS1 alternator is different than the LS2 I had to trim the back plastic cover on the alternator just a bit to clear the motor mounts.
  16. 1 point
    Seems I'll be picking up the car in a week or two after I clear the trailer.. he accepted the offer of 5k.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks man. I'm just going to deal with the gap and check it everytime I have my car jacked up. I have a bigger problem though. The new bolt holes don't line up with my diff flange. The new DS bolt pattern has slightly more space between the bolt holes then my old one, so I can get 2 bolts in on the same side but I can't get the other 2 bolts in, because the DS holes and diff holes don't line up. So we called the place I bought the driveshaft and they're claiming that it doesn't make sense, and that for a '75 280Z coupe the driveshaft should fit. Also the bolt holes themselves are larger than on the old DS. I can wiggle the bolts around if I slide them in. I don't see why datsun would change the distance between the holes for no reason. Maybe a Z expert can chime in on that. So now I need to find out what year diff I have I guess? Did certain years of S30 differentials have different bolt patterns on the flange? It's possible my diff and driveshaft were switched out at some point in it's life, but I don't know what year it was switched with. Also the new driveshaft is half an inch shorter than my old one, but it doesn't make much of a difference. I'll go take measurements of my old DS bolt pattern to help find out what kind of diff this is. Then I'll edit them in this post. Edit: I measured the distance between the bolts diagnolly from the center of the holes and got 2.75". I also found this pic of differential flanges, mine is exactly like the left one. While I was doing this my dad got a call from the driveshaft shop and they said they found a flange with the same pattern as mine, and are going to custom make me one today to fit my diff flange. So hopefully everything works out and we don't have to do this a second time. Edit2: I just found out that I might have an R200 diff. I found comparison pictures between an R180 and an R200 and the cover on mine looks just like the R200. So that explains why the driveshaft shop had such trouble. Also, I don't think it's an LSD. With the car jacked up if I spin one wheel the other wheel turns the opposite way. Edit3: I'm only updating this still because I think this info will help people that might get in a similar situation. A lot of this seems obvious by now. I found out that from 70-78 S30s all use that differential flange on the left. Except '75 S30s, they use the middle flange. When I ordered my new driveshaft I told them my car was a 1975 280Z manual coupe, and that was that. Never occured to me that my diff might've been swapped. So they shipped me a driveshaft meant for that 75 Z flange. Since my car has an R200 from some other Z/ZX it didn't fit, and here we are now. I'll get my new driveshaft with the proper bolt pattern soon and then everything will be fine. Here's where I found the pic and the info on S30 diff flanges. http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html
  18. 1 point
    For a race car I go up to 8*, problem with the S30 is getting clearance for that figure. That's a bit much for a road car though, likely to wear the tyre tread inside.
  19. 1 point
    Thanks, I'm really looking forward to it! Yes definitely one of those "big deal" cars and I'm excited to have been able to get my hands on one. I was nervous about your link comment; turns out turbo was correct about it being an ad. Since you mentioned links, if anyone wants to see what I normally work on feel free to visit the site I made for the shop! It's www.michaelsvintageracing.com. There are photos and videos of all the cars there!
  20. 1 point
    Why wouldn't two of the stock gasket work in this situation? One on the front side of the plate, one on the back.
  21. 0 points
    Boranni got their modern (hub) design from Dayton... You might say Boranni and Dayton wheels are essentially the same, because the only real difference is where the spoke go through the rim.
×