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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/18/18 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I thought I would give it a full month to let the grease soak in, the red grease is Redline assembly lube, the dark grease is from wiping my finger around the ball joint of my DD. The fabric came out much better than I thought it would, there is still a light stain from the dark grease and the Redline is almost certainly just the dye in the lube. If these were cleaned off soon after it happened I'm sure you would see no traces. This was done with clean white T shirt cotton and Brakekleen, keep rubbing until the cotton comes away clean.
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  3. 1 point
    Hey guys, after a 6 hiatus I might be returning with yet another Z project. Going full tilt this time, backhalf/tubbed, LS, and a big effing turbo. Found a '75 that has been sitting for 25 years. As long as the deal goes through, I will starting surgery this Winter.
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    I really like how the paint changes color in the light. In a dark setting its more of a copper base and in the light its a nice orange. I almost had the engine bay painted black as well but after all the hard work put into making it smooth I opted to keep it orange. The frame rails and bumper ends were painted black. Like I said, clear coat is still to come and then the glass is getting put in and its coming back to me!!😊
  6. 1 point
    It's pumping gas into the carb though. I'm thinking of just getting a full rebuild kit anyway, of course, you know what they say, 90% of all carb problems are ignition problems! This was true on the '62 Galaxie I've been working on, Rebuilt the carb to end up with a new distributor! Tonight we swapped out cap and rotor. I've read vac, adv. going bad can do weird things. It would barely idle and was rough, it started suddenly, seems like it's missing to me. It was running quite well for weeks then would barely idle and die on touching the gas, limped home and here we are trying to figure it out.
  7. 1 point
    I've noticed. Although I will see if the stock engine runs for giggles its going straight to a LS engine. When I discussed this with the wife she said she really didn't care as long as I didn't take away from the savings. ❤️ I told her I would get rid of the ranger and 49' 5 window for this. Its literally in the middle of no where, sounded like a old guy. I'm to far to drive for a deposit. Funday Friday, can't wait!
  8. 1 point
    Thankyou Jhm, I dropped them a e-mail in Germany. Specific springs for 280z are hard to find via their web sited. Let see, Thx Joost
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    Also for what it's worth, you'd be amazed how "smooth" a well performing suspension can be. Stiff might feel sporty, but remember that the goal is to maintain contact over the road surface, not skip over it. Also don't forget that spring rates are acting as a force between two points. Required spring rate to reach max travel target is subject to weight of wheel package as well as chassis weight. Then there's also suspension geometey which is a huge reason some chassis run wildly different rates. A 400# spring on a 240sx might feel soft but absolutely brutal on a s30.
  10. 1 point
    Move this post to the "Engine Components/EMS/Megasquirt" Forum and look for "Chickenman" and/or "softopz". Chickenman does remote setups and tuning for a modest fee.
  11. 1 point
    Nissan Altima coupe. Pulled the entire rear bumper cover, cut the lower section off then narrowed it to fit the lines of the Z.
  12. 1 point
    Picked up both parts and installed them today. A few notes on fitment: -The pushrod that connects to the brake pedal was too long for my 1977, I had to chop the end of it (twice, because I didn't want to chop too much) to get it to fit. -The neck or whatever of the booster didn't *quite* want to fit into the hole in my firewall. It was seizing on the top, so I filed out the edge of the hole there a bit and also the brake booster neck a touch, and everything fit alright. As someone noted earlier, the neck/pushrod isn't directly centered in the four bolts that go through the firewall, but it looks to be located in nearly the same spot as the stock one was anyway. -The brake line connections for this Tacoma master cylinder are located on the side and not the bottom, which means I need to run fresh lines. Thankfully, these are short runs to the junction just below, so it's nbd. A few pictures after install (yes I know I need hose clamps on those vacuum lines between the booster and vacuum pump)
  13. 1 point
    Fit what? Always provide the make, model, year and any modifications for your car when asking questions. Welcome. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
  14. 1 point
    Introducing the Empty Your Bank Account starter pack:)
  15. 1 point
    And yet another timing chain mockup series. I'm convinced when they design a motor the first thing they do is the timing chain. Talk about restrictive. SN005 is building a tall deck motor so I needed to work out what we were doing on the timing chain. I was hoping that my normal KA setup would work with a redesigned pivot for the tensioner arm. Actually worked out better than the normal setup. It looks like the extra height on the head will allow the arm to clear the timing cover without modifying the cover. It uses all the stuff from a KA24 timing chain kit except the bottom chain needs to be a 94 link instead of the 92. I was trying to get the arm closer to the tensioner but this is the best I'm going to get. Each full link you add or subtract shortens or lengthens the chain by 5/8” so the adjustment is pretty coarse. The guides are stock out of the box Nissan KA24. The jumper brackets on the tension side are temporary. I’ll design something a little better. I'm happy with the angle on the top tensioner. The upper brackets should start to become a standard item at this point. I changed the way the cam cores are being produced. I'm bringing the cams to length after heat treating and then shipping them to Schnieder for OD turning. This is giving me a lot more control. I know it probably seems like this project has stalled but far from it. I just decided to concentrate on getting my build, V2 and SN005 finished off. I realized after selling 005 that there are still a lot of little details to work out and I don't have enough free time to do my regular work and support any more builds. The next three heads will go a lot smoother now that I have all of this worked out. Derek
  16. 1 point
    This is a just a 14mm x 1.5 LH nut I'm pretty sure. McMaster Carr? Or belmetric.com https://www.belmetric.com/left-hand-nuts-zinc-class-8-c-1039_1042_1055.html
  17. 1 point
    I've been there! I can't say how many times I've flown in to somewhere...opened up the local instruction manual, and started at Square 1... Customers don't want to see that. They want the Factory Guy to come in with a glamorous set of tools and diagnose some bizarre malady. The best was a vibration issue at a company in MO... I was there on the machine during overhaul...and now...three years later it was vibrating. Customer diagnosed it...I was there to reassemble. Long story short...they had sent the electric motor out for overhaul when it shorted phase-to-phase and after re installation their fears of compressor damage seemed justified in a high vibration trip that wouldn't go away. Puzzling to me was if I rotated the compressor by hand it was fine...then, sitting over the coupling pushing down on the 48" Pipe Wrench rotating it it came to me: normally I crawl onto the machine from the high speed side (opposite of what I was) and push down... I thought "I'm rotating this backwards!" I did my scroll check, then asked they get the manual, section 5, page 4 (standard standard, standard!) The motor company, despite marking everything for orientation, had reversed end bells of the motor. The customer did the rotation check, reversed leads, then had a vibration problem that just would NOT go away! They even said to me when I got there "it's strange, we an roll it in reverse and it's fine..." One basic check to the manual (which clearly said: "compressor rotation is clockwise viewed from drive end"!) and they would have never torn into a perfectly good machine. Nor had to pay for a field Balance! I flew across the country, assembled the machine, and in 45 minutes and one start diagnosed reversed end bells (improper rotation)... Later compressors had a big cast-in direction of rotation arrow...hmmmm wonder why? Most of the time it comes down to something very basic, but overlooked or dismissed. The head of maintenance sat there, looking at the book....and said "we probably did all this work for nothing then..." Yep! And balanced a field balanced rotor that made it imbalanced and needed another field balance to get it back where it was before you took it all apart! "D'OH!" Don't get discouraged, just step back...and then comeback with a fresh outlook and check it all again. You are right: a second set of eyes s invaluable when looking at this...it was JeffP and a case of Moosehead before he said "Man, your laptop's comm chip has some really funky signals coming out...let's try mine!" Badaboom! Fixed...for about 20 minutes and then my power circuit went DOA! Second box was fine and that box has been in there since!