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Showing most liked content since 12/10/04 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  2. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  3. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  4. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  5. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  6. 1 point
    Here's how my 4 pt roll bar was constructed.
  7. 1 point
    https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-34-184530-Suspension-Cartridge-Lowering/dp/B009FU7QVW
  8. 1 point
    I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim
  9. 1 point
    I've figured it out, that I've never figured it out! At at least once a month I scratch my head and go WTH is that about. Best part ever is having adult children now. They look at her and go what's wrong with her! Makes me feel normal all these years I've scratched my hair out in utter confusion.
  10. 1 point
    I've been on this forum a few times during my searches for megasquirt answers. I recently acquired a 74 260z. The guy that owned it bought it in the late 70s, during the 80s he auto crossed it and ran it on the road courses. It's sat since 91 in his garage, now that's he's older the car is going to too much for him to tackle to get it back on the road. I asked to get a chance to buy it if ever decides to sell it. Well he ended up giving it to me, he just wants to see it back on the road again someday. He's owned half a dozen zs theought the years and collected a ton of parts. He's giving me them all as well as he un burys them. I got it to my garage yesterday, after doing a quick once over on it it's going to need both full floor pans, rockers, doors and a new hatch. He's giving me the doors and hatches that he has. He installed fiberglass fenders, and he said the rockers and quarters are glass as well. He's got a fiberglass hood for it. Ive always wanted to build a "wide body" car and being that this one is not in perfect shape I think it's a good candidate for that. I've found the quarters and fenders I like from ztrix.com. I'm a "Chevy guy" but I like and respect all engines. As easy as it would be to throw a sbc or LS engine in I want to stay with a Nissan 6cyl. If I didn't go with a Nissan then it would be getting a Buick V6. I would like to make 200-250 n/a horsepower. I am going to try to gather all the parts for it before I tear into it. I have to finish my current project a 72 ghia. I want to make a hot street car out of it. It will be auto crossed and road raced on occasion. I plan to come back to here for answers.
  11. 1 point
    The bottom hose Dayco #C7039 The top hose is made up of two hoses Dayco #D72039 is connected to the engine. Dayco D70704 is connected to the radiator. Bought hoses at Autozone.
  12. 1 point
    LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW
  13. 1 point
    I've been running a Spartan for a while and have had zero issues. I had nothing but headaches with my Inovate LC-1. Probably killed 3 or 4 O2 sensors. Derek
  14. 1 point
    I am seeing a lot of references to bubble flares. Z cars should all be 10mm x 1.0 inverted flares. Bubble flares on a Z will leak.
  15. 1 point
    I used Hoke Performance 240Z mounts for my late 260Z (280 chassis)with an LS1/T56 and it works fine. Hoke's new 280Z mounts offer more room for the exhaust system, I used Hawks (American Racing) headers and had to downsize the exhaust from the header 3" out to 2 1/2" then back to 3" to feed through the mounts. The 280 mounts should easily fit a full 3" system. It didn't seem to effect my power output though. The steering shaft is a tight fit through the headers too. As far as I can tell it doesn't rub. The other problem I had was the LS1 alternator is different than the LS2 I had to trim the back plastic cover on the alternator just a bit to clear the motor mounts.
  16. 1 point
    Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
  17. 1 point
    Awesome news Ryan, again thanks so much for doing these apparel runs!
  18. 1 point
    Received my order today and as usual, I'm very pleased with the product, and service ... Thank You ~joel
  19. 1 point
    I sent off my revised design to the CNC shop this last week, hope to have new parts on hand end of next week. From there I have a sheetmetal shop waiting to a final measurement on the front mount. Then its off to make a larger batch of them. I'm not doing axles hubs etc. Theres many options and different price points depending on your needs. One guy on the v8 FB group reused the ford axels "Stock explorer axles cut down and resplined to fit 300zx TechnoTuning outer stubs" Which might be the cheapest option, I purchased the driveshaftshop's explorer to 930 cv adapters...
  20. 1 point
    Hi again. On the last two weeks Mr.Vitorino worked on other projects and on the last days he worked in the Z. He started with the doors, and at first they seem in pretty nice shape...but then he found some clues on bad reparations years ago. With this he decided to separate the door panel from the structure and he was right, they need some intervetion. Tons of rust and event the protetion layer was completely cracked. This week I hope he finishes at least one door, because on Thursday I'm going to the shop. Meanwhile, the electric system was rebuilt and is now tunned for 1971, I'm talking about the rear plate lights. Let's see the pictures,,,and like I said...this was the correct moment for this Z... The interior as Mr. Vitorino suspected...passenger door. Drivers door with the same aspect... And based in this suspections we have decided to make a full reparation of the doors. Next photos are from the passenger door. Door panel and interior panel removed. I believe these were the worst parts of this car, and I'm aware of the rust on the front and rear arches and I think I'll be lucky. grannyknot: Thanks a lot. As you say, perfect time and Mr.Vitorino did the best option on the car. I'll put it back on 1971 with the original blue. I'll try to get all the details and put her 100% original. I think it's possible. The muffler happened because of this version I think. It still has the original muffler tip. I'll search with some other here in Portugal! JT1: Thanks a lot. That's exactly the 903. Love the colour on the car. This one is pretty but not the original. Rturbo930: Thanks a lot. For the moment only metal work. Hope you are enjoying this resto...next week some more news! Regards Mário
  21. 1 point
    Thanks, I'm really looking forward to it! Yes definitely one of those "big deal" cars and I'm excited to have been able to get my hands on one. I was nervous about your link comment; turns out turbo was correct about it being an ad. Since you mentioned links, if anyone wants to see what I normally work on feel free to visit the site I made for the shop! It's www.michaelsvintageracing.com. There are photos and videos of all the cars there!
  22. 1 point
    More progress, not much but something. Made a new bracket for the tension arm since the original bracket wouldnt fit my newly made frame rail. I started the downward bend to early and should had started it a little be later. I opted to make a whole new bracket in lieu of hacking up the stock one to make it work. Cut out a good chunk of rust on the fender well area. Made the support/stiffening plate for the frame rail. Not welded on yet, just snugly fitted for pics. Also made the mounting for the sway bar, kind of went over kill. I decided to have the bolt go through the entire frame. only thing left is wondering what I want to do for the tow hook mount...
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    WOW man..WOW..really? You're just digging yourself into a big hole. The typical "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor, is a Potentiometer. It varies voltage throughout its sweep, its a variable resistor called a Potentiometer, utilizing 3 wires. The 3 typical terminals would be VREF (Voltage Reference), GRD (Ground), and SIG/SGN (SIGNAL). The Z31 utilizes a single-connector TPS on manual cars, as throttle position SWITCH, and is only an idle switch. 86-89 Automatic cars have a secondary connector that has a potentiometer to show true throttle position for the transmission control module, while 84-85 are fully mechanical. ALL 86-89 cars have the connector in the engine wiring harness, but it does not do anything on manuals. The Automatic TPS has the secondary set wires on it with the connector, but the manual does not. The automatic TPS can be put on a manual car and it'll function perfectly everytime, you can even plug that connector in...but that connector isnt doing ANYTHING. Source: 1989 300ZX FSM Don't argue with stuff you don't know, and have just observed on your cars. I've made Z31 engine harness', I know where that connector goes, and its for nothing on the manual. If you get a chance to mess with nistune, you'll also notice it shows no throttle position on Z31 ECUs, but it will on Z32s. It shows "IDLESWITCH" as one of the possible faults. http://xenonz31.com/reference.html
  25. 1 point
    I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.
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