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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  2. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  3. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  4. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  5. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  6. 1 point
    The new tires came in and had them mounted at the end of last week. This has me motivated to make some progress with the build. I called my old friend Tho Chung who has previously done the majority of fab work on the car, to see if I can get him to finish up the stitch welding in the front and rear of the car as well as cut out the rear floor with the spare tire well. Still waiting to hear back and plan accordingly.
  7. 1 point
    A few vids of some recent action with my 240Z racing with NASA AZ and Thunderhill Nationals. I had to start from the back on this race, made up good ground but that's as far as I got that race. Severely outgunned at NASA West Coast Nationals 2017 (Thunderhill). The competition was brutal and all on their home track. Just screwed up is all. This was a fun lap battling with Ricky Johnson in his turbo Mini. I got past him a few laps later, but he wasn't giving up...
  8. 1 point
    it's all a nice exercise... Have titanium valves, retainers, spring keepers? Well then lighten that reciprocating end and run a lighter spring, you might be good to 24,000 rpms! stock nissan rockers on our bonneville engine were stable to 13,000 rpms in our testing. I think valve, spring, and cam profile selection play a much more critical role. If you note the E-Motive guys polished theirs similar to TimZ. We didn't even do that, though I have in the past on other engines (Yamaha....)
  9. 1 point
    I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim
  10. 1 point
    Let me know when you're ready to install another
  11. 1 point
    I thought it was a pretty good price for that piece, glad it worked out for you.
  12. 1 point
    1. What year is your Z? 2. Did you check the fuse panel? 3. Typically, the problem you have is caused by the turn signal and/or the light switch. Many "how to" posts on switch repair here and on the internet. 4. Information: http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/services/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/ Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf
  13. 1 point
    Lumber arrived last Friday. Now if it would just stop raining long enough for me to do some framing.
  14. 1 point
    Well I think I'm averaging one post a year so here it is. First I'd like to thank those that pointed out the issues with the roll cage. When I took the car to the fabricator he mentioned the same thing and even said it was dangerous. So for those looking to follow in my footsteps don't install the cage like that. Now to the fun stuff. The car spent 3 months at the fabricator getting the following items taken care of: 1. Custom intercooler mount and piping 2. Radiator mounted along with piping 3. Full exhaust off the downpipes 4. Modified the 350z bellhousing to accept the Collins Adapter, custom shifter linkeage and Datsun Roadster starter 5. Modified diff mount 6. Mounted S2000 seats 7. Complete AC system!! I'll install the front airdam, driveshaft, pulleys before it heads off for tuning. It's looking like I'll be able to get it tuned in a couple months after my car fund recovers.
  15. 1 point
    Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel
  16. 1 point
    This is really the end of the thread right here. You either really want the 2JZ, and are willing to pay more for it, and have it take longer, or you don't, and just finish with the Ford swap that you already started. We can't tell you what you want.
  17. 1 point
    This is a really old thread. Actually came back to this site because the time has come to pass my Z on to the next enthusiast. Site is super different now...
  18. 1 point
    " left side only , damaged ( crack ) , repairable and paintable " I didn't know you could paint your headlight covers!
  19. 1 point
    Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
  20. 1 point
    Awesome news Ryan, again thanks so much for doing these apparel runs!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    For a race car I go up to 8*, problem with the S30 is getting clearance for that figure. That's a bit much for a road car though, likely to wear the tyre tread inside.
  23. 1 point
    Hi guys, New to the Z world, I just bought this car from a gentleman in Illinois. Seemed like he really cared about the car but had to let it go. I'm not sure if he was a poster on this forum but he did mention it. It's a 1975 280z. Most of this is quoted from the seller's listing. There's a lot more to say but here's the meat and potatoes. 1. 1999 GM LS1 from Trans Am with 118,000 miles, GM unlocked computer, PSI Conversions harness New water pump, oil pump, timing chain, starter, rebuilt injectors (Oside Tiger), fuel pump (MSD), fuel regulator, (Corvette regulator and filter) Sanderson ceramic coated headers, MSD plug wire with heat boots, braided AN fuel line, PSI harness,new valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, silicone intake hoses, K&N filter, LS6 converted valley cover, new starter 3” into 2.5” all stainless, tig welded exhaust with Vibrant resonator and Magna Flow muffler, all connections are V-bands. 2. Professionally rebuilt 4L60E transmission and torque convertor (less than 500 miles), OEM Camaro shifter with custom weldedand smoothed shifter box housed in trans tunnel, custom solid brass shift knob (looks like a manual), shortened shifter, JCI drive shaft, OEM rear end. The rear suspension is stock for the most part with exception of T3 coilovers and all poly bushings. 6. CUSTOM one-off American Racing forged wheels, model VN477, satin black 17x9 and 17x9.5 Brand new Continental Extreme DWS tires 245/45-17 front, 275/40-17 rear Custom yellow “continental” tire letters Technotoy Tuning coil overs (front and rear), front lower control arms, TC rods, triangulated front strut bar (not installed) SilverMine Motors Wilwood brake conversion, front and rear, powdercoated red Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve Technotoy front camber plates
  24. 1 point
    I've been there! I can't say how many times I've flown in to somewhere...opened up the local instruction manual, and started at Square 1... Customers don't want to see that. They want the Factory Guy to come in with a glamorous set of tools and diagnose some bizarre malady. The best was a vibration issue at a company in MO... I was there on the machine during overhaul...and now...three years later it was vibrating. Customer diagnosed it...I was there to reassemble. Long story short...they had sent the electric motor out for overhaul when it shorted phase-to-phase and after re installation their fears of compressor damage seemed justified in a high vibration trip that wouldn't go away. Puzzling to me was if I rotated the compressor by hand it was fine...then, sitting over the coupling pushing down on the 48" Pipe Wrench rotating it it came to me: normally I crawl onto the machine from the high speed side (opposite of what I was) and push down... I thought "I'm rotating this backwards!" I did my scroll check, then asked they get the manual, section 5, page 4 (standard standard, standard!) The motor company, despite marking everything for orientation, had reversed end bells of the motor. The customer did the rotation check, reversed leads, then had a vibration problem that just would NOT go away! They even said to me when I got there "it's strange, we an roll it in reverse and it's fine..." One basic check to the manual (which clearly said: "compressor rotation is clockwise viewed from drive end"!) and they would have never torn into a perfectly good machine. Nor had to pay for a field Balance! I flew across the country, assembled the machine, and in 45 minutes and one start diagnosed reversed end bells (improper rotation)... Later compressors had a big cast-in direction of rotation arrow...hmmmm wonder why? Most of the time it comes down to something very basic, but overlooked or dismissed. The head of maintenance sat there, looking at the book....and said "we probably did all this work for nothing then..." Yep! And balanced a field balanced rotor that made it imbalanced and needed another field balance to get it back where it was before you took it all apart! "D'OH!" Don't get discouraged, just step back...and then comeback with a fresh outlook and check it all again. You are right: a second set of eyes s invaluable when looking at this...it was JeffP and a case of Moosehead before he said "Man, your laptop's comm chip has some really funky signals coming out...let's try mine!" Badaboom! Fixed...for about 20 minutes and then my power circuit went DOA! Second box was fine and that box has been in there since!
  25. 1 point
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