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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  2. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  3. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  4. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  5. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  6. 1 point
    Thanks for all the inputs, I Installed a larger MC because the plans was to install the larger Toyota calipers and ventilated rotors, but I have been a little short on budget, I just ordered the spacers and the rotors, and I'm waiting for them to arrive (I live in Guatemala so that will take a few weeks ). And just as aditional info, I installed an electrical vacuum pump, 20 inch of vacuum, and the feeling was the same, so I opted to finally swap to the toyota calipers. I will keep you posted, Thanks guys,
  7. 1 point
    The new tires came in and had them mounted at the end of last week. This has me motivated to make some progress with the build. I called my old friend Tho Chung who has previously done the majority of fab work on the car, to see if I can get him to finish up the stitch welding in the front and rear of the car as well as cut out the rear floor with the spare tire well. Still waiting to hear back and plan accordingly.
  8. 1 point
    All clean and freshly painted a pair of 240z front hubs with all new TEMKIN seals and bearings racers already SOLD.. Thanks, Juan.
  9. 1 point
    I can see how those pedantic details are germane to a discussion about a V8 rally/safari inspired build like the one the OP is building. Oh wait, no I can't. OP, you want to see something RIDICULOUS? Take a look at the bolt in roll bar that they used in those old works cars. I was ROFL when I saw one for the first time...
  10. 1 point
    Hello everyone, I've been a Nissan fanboy since I picked up my first 09 Nismo 370Z. I've been racing that ever since and eagerly eyeing an S30. I am a NASA National Instructor and compete in a wide variety of events in a wide variety of cars. I've earned trophies with NASA, SCCA, Chumpcar, completed the One Lap of America, and more. I'm sure you care much more about my Datsuns. Picked this up for a steal to give it a good home: my garage. It is a 1977 280Z with the L28ET from an 83 ZX. All done by the previous, previous owner. Originally from the west coast, it has very little rust after 3 years around Washington D.C.
  11. 1 point
    WIth stock brakes, a 1 in. MC is expected to make the pedal hard to push. Replace the 1 in. MC with the stock 7/8 in. MC and your brakes will be fine.
  12. 1 point
    Really enjoyed the write up in this month's issue of NASA Speed News, great work Tom! https://drivenasa.cld.bz/NASA-Speed-News-Volume-7-Issue-1-February/70/
  13. 1 point
    I thought it was a pretty good price for that piece, glad it worked out for you.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Guys, there is big differances with CVs. If parts wern't heat treated they would self destruct in no time. My kit is priced the way it is as I only use good quality parts. This is the CVs I use in my kit. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=301174M-28M As you can see they are $265.00 each that's almost a 1/3 of the cost of my kit. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html Joe
  15. 1 point
    At this point the only things that needed to be taken care of before the 1st drive was the bleeding of my clutch & brakes. With the help of my lovely girlfriend that was quickly knocked out. My goal was to drive my car before 2018 came. Motul 8068HL RBF 600 DOT-4 was used for my brakes & clutch. I also with switched my transmission fluid out to 50305 MT-90 75W90 GL-4. Now its the day of Christmas Eve. After double checking every nut & bolt I lowered the car down from the jack stands. Then I warmed the car up & began to adjust the tune. So I could actually attempt it's 1st drive. With the tune roughly adjusted, the car was ready to take out. Would it drive?..... or will I fail to meet my goal?....... Well I places my phone on a tripod & to record it either way...... Thankfully for me the car ACTUALLY DROVE!!!! There's still a ton of tuning left to do but I finally was able to DRIVE my car for the 1st time! I'm by NO means a tuner but I'm gong to give a try. I understand the drive isn't a very exciting for most but this was a huge accomplishment for me. I've included the videos below. This was a huge update! Sorry I wasn't able to release this update done than I did. It should be well worth the wait IMO. Thanks to everybodyfor all support & following the build! Stay tuned. https://youtu.be/DcMBSUcZv90 https://youtu.be/ChwRHIjSmJs https://youtu.be/TwGjmifHZ28
  16. 1 point
    Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.
  17. 1 point
    yeah-but your engine only puts out low 700 HP-so....
  18. 1 point
    Auto Zone Speedi-Boot! 03670 is a perfect fit on a 1976 280Z steering rack. Cut one step off of the big end and you are good to go. Use a wire tie on the big end, but keep it off of the little end. This allows inner tie-rod adjustment without twisting the boot. Allow the boot small end to cover the threads of the inner tie-rod. see images of full turn condition
  19. 1 point
    LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW
  20. 1 point
    There's nothing wrong with this S30. It's got damn every part that we all like to put on our cars that is currently offered by vendors out there right now. ...But there's nothing overly special about it either, other than it's well done. We have members on this forum that have more unique and interesting cars that were made on a much smaller budget in a 2 car garage than this thing.
  21. 1 point
    Honestly for the effort involved just take it to the pros. I got all my strikers for hood , doors, trunks, ashtray, gas cap and ring plated for 40 or 50 $ locally here in Ottawa. I chose yellow for half the stuff and silver for the other half. They first acid dipped to remove any dirt and oils then gave them back to me just asked me to wire brush and clean off any paints to bring the cost down. I feel like getting everything zinc plated
  22. 1 point
    I used Hoke Performance 240Z mounts for my late 260Z (280 chassis)with an LS1/T56 and it works fine. Hoke's new 280Z mounts offer more room for the exhaust system, I used Hawks (American Racing) headers and had to downsize the exhaust from the header 3" out to 2 1/2" then back to 3" to feed through the mounts. The 280 mounts should easily fit a full 3" system. It didn't seem to effect my power output though. The steering shaft is a tight fit through the headers too. As far as I can tell it doesn't rub. The other problem I had was the LS1 alternator is different than the LS2 I had to trim the back plastic cover on the alternator just a bit to clear the motor mounts.
  23. 1 point
    Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
  24. 1 point
    Hi guys, New to the Z world, I just bought this car from a gentleman in Illinois. Seemed like he really cared about the car but had to let it go. I'm not sure if he was a poster on this forum but he did mention it. It's a 1975 280z. Most of this is quoted from the seller's listing. There's a lot more to say but here's the meat and potatoes. 1. 1999 GM LS1 from Trans Am with 118,000 miles, GM unlocked computer, PSI Conversions harness New water pump, oil pump, timing chain, starter, rebuilt injectors (Oside Tiger), fuel pump (MSD), fuel regulator, (Corvette regulator and filter) Sanderson ceramic coated headers, MSD plug wire with heat boots, braided AN fuel line, PSI harness,new valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, silicone intake hoses, K&N filter, LS6 converted valley cover, new starter 3” into 2.5” all stainless, tig welded exhaust with Vibrant resonator and Magna Flow muffler, all connections are V-bands. 2. Professionally rebuilt 4L60E transmission and torque convertor (less than 500 miles), OEM Camaro shifter with custom weldedand smoothed shifter box housed in trans tunnel, custom solid brass shift knob (looks like a manual), shortened shifter, JCI drive shaft, OEM rear end. The rear suspension is stock for the most part with exception of T3 coilovers and all poly bushings. 6. CUSTOM one-off American Racing forged wheels, model VN477, satin black 17x9 and 17x9.5 Brand new Continental Extreme DWS tires 245/45-17 front, 275/40-17 rear Custom yellow “continental” tire letters Technotoy Tuning coil overs (front and rear), front lower control arms, TC rods, triangulated front strut bar (not installed) SilverMine Motors Wilwood brake conversion, front and rear, powdercoated red Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve Technotoy front camber plates
  25. 1 point
    WOW man..WOW..really? You're just digging yourself into a big hole. The typical "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor, is a Potentiometer. It varies voltage throughout its sweep, its a variable resistor called a Potentiometer, utilizing 3 wires. The 3 typical terminals would be VREF (Voltage Reference), GRD (Ground), and SIG/SGN (SIGNAL). The Z31 utilizes a single-connector TPS on manual cars, as throttle position SWITCH, and is only an idle switch. 86-89 Automatic cars have a secondary connector that has a potentiometer to show true throttle position for the transmission control module, while 84-85 are fully mechanical. ALL 86-89 cars have the connector in the engine wiring harness, but it does not do anything on manuals. The Automatic TPS has the secondary set wires on it with the connector, but the manual does not. The automatic TPS can be put on a manual car and it'll function perfectly everytime, you can even plug that connector in...but that connector isnt doing ANYTHING. Source: 1989 300ZX FSM Don't argue with stuff you don't know, and have just observed on your cars. I've made Z31 engine harness', I know where that connector goes, and its for nothing on the manual. If you get a chance to mess with nistune, you'll also notice it shows no throttle position on Z31 ECUs, but it will on Z32s. It shows "IDLESWITCH" as one of the possible faults. http://xenonz31.com/reference.html
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