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  1. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  2. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  3. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  5. 1 point
    I thought it was a pretty good price for that piece, glad it worked out for you.
  6. 1 point
    Not mine but you can try this ad: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/d/240z-260z-280z-whaletail-wing/6452838157.html
  7. 1 point
    Sorry, wasn't a question. It was a statement. I also degreed mine 8 degrees advanced from straight up.
  8. 1 point
    Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    yeah-but your engine only puts out low 700 HP-so....
  11. 1 point
    This is really the end of the thread right here. You either really want the 2JZ, and are willing to pay more for it, and have it take longer, or you don't, and just finish with the Ford swap that you already started. We can't tell you what you want.
  12. 1 point
    I don't post here often, but as owner of FutoFab I thought I would chime in about the FutoFab STi conversion stub axles. FutoFab purchased the WCR stock after Todd Walrich passed. Part of this stock included the Beta Motorsports / John Williams designed stub axles. We also heard about breakage issues on those axles and decided if we were to carry on with STi stub axles, they would be made by a driveline shop from axle forgings, not machined from billet stock. We felt using an axle forging for our stub axles would improve the quality in 2 key areas. 1) The flange being forged onto the shaft allows the grain of the steel to "flow" into the flange rather than be cut as it would be when machined from a billet. 2) The heat treating on our forgings is done to the shaft only. Heat treatment penetrates roughly .20" to .25" into the surface of the metal. The treatment depth leaves the core of the shaft untreated, making it more flexible. While heat treating adds strength, it also makes steel more brittle. Because heat treatment will fully penetrate the thinner flanges, we prefer to use forgings with untreated flanges. Since we have changed to using forged shafts, we have not had a failure reported to us. Dave Patten, Owner
  13. 1 point
    Don't know if this will help you but I tossed the stock sliders, cut of the tabs on the 350z seats and welded on threaded studs to the 350z sliders, easy install.
  14. 1 point
    That's it haha. Personally not a fan, but it can be done well, and probably more aerodynamic than some other options, and DEFINITELY better aero than stock.
  15. 1 point
    The bottom hose Dayco #C7039 The top hose is made up of two hoses Dayco #D72039 is connected to the engine. Dayco D70704 is connected to the radiator. Bought hoses at Autozone.
  16. 1 point
    Received my order today and as usual, I'm very pleased with the product, and service ... Thank You ~joel
  17. 1 point
    getting there, engine is back in, ride height ist still too high but i guess it will settle down.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    For a race car I go up to 8*, problem with the S30 is getting clearance for that figure. That's a bit much for a road car though, likely to wear the tyre tread inside.
  20. 1 point
    Here is the real answer. I've been racing Z's for 20 years, all different build types. Get a helmet with a fresh air vent. It's a foolproof method. I always have used the fuel rail cooler fan from the fuel injected ZX because it blows just right and doesn't use gobs of power. There are many brands of this. I prefer the helmet with the top air inlet as it doesn't bind and distract you when you turn your head back and forth. You can chase fume leaks until you're red faced, literally. This is the only thing I have depended on. We run 110 octane leaded fuel. Believe me, you know for a day or two that you were on the fumes. Greg Ira
  21. 1 point
    Yup, it was the brake booster. Replaced it and everything is good now! Thanks guys!
  22. 1 point
    The printer said they were scheduled to run last Friday and then they have to ship the order to me. Hope that I'll get them by the middle of next week so I can pack and ship on the 18th. Give it a week to get to you guys and I'm thinking everyone should receive their stuff by the 25th.
  23. 1 point
    You do not have a proportioning valve problem. You have a MC push rod issue. The "distribution block" is called a brake switch and all it does is turn a light on if the front or rear brake circuit looses pressure. Leave it alone. You do not need an adjustable proportioning valve unless you will be racing and experimenting with brake pads. The brake set up you have is biased towards the front (70% F - 30% R). So reducing rear pressure will make your brakes perform worse. Your brakes are locking up because the push rod that goes into the MC is adjusted too far out. It should be adjust so that it just about touches the bottom of the depression on the end of the piston. The rod is preventing the piston from fully retracting which is causing the piston to cover the fluid return ports for the tanks. So each time you you step on the brakes you are filling the calipers, but the fluid can't flow back out. Do the following: Relieve the pressure by opening the MC bleeders. Keep the wrench in the car. You don't have to remove the MC. Just remove the two nuts and pull the MC away from the booster and push it aside. To adjust the push rod, hold the rod with needle nose pliers etc and use a small wrench to turn the adjustment nut inward a bit. NOTE: If you pull the push rod too far out you may drop the reaction disk into the bottom of the booster and your brakes will not work until you replace it. You will be sad. The push rod on my MC is about 13 to 15 mm out as measured from the tip of the adjuster to the face of the spacer block. Staying close to home drive the car and brake several times and drive around. Note: if the brakes are dragging (dragging = push rod too long) or if the pedal travel is too long (long pedal = push rod too short). If the brakes lock up, use the wrench you used on the MC bleeders and relieve the fluid pressure. Drive home and readjust the push rod one or two turns: Turn in (shorten) if brakes drag/lock up or Turn out (lengthen) if brake pedal is too long. Repeat until it is perfect. Write down the measurement of the rod each time you adjust it. Save the final measurement.
  24. 1 point
    I have been testing the new server and forum software upgrade for a few weeks now and things have gone much better than I expected.. The move will start this coming Thursday morning 08-31-2017 and is expected to take about 6 hours to complete. The site will be inaccessible during the move and upgrade When the site becomes accessible again there are background rebuild process that will being running over the next few days to finalize the upgrade. Expect to see little glitches here and there during this time. Things like images disappearing, text formatting looking funny, search not working etc. Once these processes are complete I will post a note about it a create a support thread so any issues you guys have can posted. Know Your Password Make darn sure you know what your password is for your account and that your email address is up to date. DO THIS NOW!!! We cannot stress this enough. You may be required to login to the new forum once the site is back up. We know most of you stay permanently logged into the site and may have forgotten your password so you need to take care of that now.* Make Sure Your eMail Account is Current Make sure your email is up to date. This is the only way the system and the admins can communicate with you. Its the ONLY way password resets can be performed. Make sure your spam filter is not blocking emails from hybridz.org. This is very important because sending the admins requests to reset your password will most likely end up in the trash for security reasons. This is especially true if you send an email to an admin from an email account that is different than the one listed in your account profile. *Note about Facebook Login Recently there has been an issue with user trying to use Facebook to login to HybridZ. This issue will be resolved with the new version of the forum software. It was a change to the Facebook API that is not compatible with our current forum software.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks, I'm really looking forward to it! Yes definitely one of those "big deal" cars and I'm excited to have been able to get my hands on one. I was nervous about your link comment; turns out turbo was correct about it being an ad. Since you mentioned links, if anyone wants to see what I normally work on feel free to visit the site I made for the shop! It's www.michaelsvintageracing.com. There are photos and videos of all the cars there!
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