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Showing most liked content since 12/10/04 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  2. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  3. 1 point
    Hello everyone, I've been a Nissan fanboy since I picked up my first 09 Nismo 370Z. I've been racing that ever since and eagerly eyeing an S30. I am a NASA National Instructor and compete in a wide variety of events in a wide variety of cars. I've earned trophies with NASA, SCCA, Chumpcar, completed the One Lap of America, and more. I'm sure you care much more about my Datsuns. Picked this up for a steal to give it a good home: my garage. It is a 1977 280Z with the L28ET from an 83 ZX. All done by the previous, previous owner. Originally from the west coast, it has very little rust after 3 years around Washington D.C.
  4. 1 point
    After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  5. 1 point
    ^I think that would be kind of nice, along with yellow octopus's note. If someone was curious they could find the build list with links to specific threads, whether that is original content or a thread that helped shape their decision. Any feedback from Dan? I know he is a busy guy, but is this helpful? I know comments can even with the best of intensions be unwanted at some point. I think all of us here want this forum to survive, it would be nice if maybe our efforts could be directed towards specific problems.
  6. 1 point
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  7. 1 point
    Interesting shots of the engine too. I was surprised to see that it's a single throttle body and seemingly tiny intercooler. Looks like it has some sort of water or alcohol injection too.
  8. 1 point
    Suncentral Z Car Club has a Facebook page. Hit them up, lm sure they would love to have you as a member.
  9. 1 point
    I've figured it out, that I've never figured it out! At at least once a month I scratch my head and go WTH is that about. Best part ever is having adult children now. They look at her and go what's wrong with her! Makes me feel normal all these years I've scratched my hair out in utter confusion.
  10. 1 point
    The bottom hose Dayco #C7039 The top hose is made up of two hoses Dayco #D72039 is connected to the engine. Dayco D70704 is connected to the radiator. Bought hoses at Autozone.
  11. 1 point
    First off welcome to the forums. 2nd, we don't really use the word best here, in fact it is a forum rule/guideline take a minute and peruse it, you will find a more intelligent discussion if you can phrase the question more precisely. One could make a numerical argument for something over the other, but best is a matter of opinion and is highly subject on purpose, use, budget, place in life, location, etc etc etc. There really is no best, semantically there can not be a best of two options, one can only be better then the other, once again still highly subject. They are very different engines that deliver power differently, it will be up to you to decide what you want. An LS3 could probably be pushed to 400 or so HP NA I imagine. Linear torque curve and all. The 2jzgte can hit 400 on the stock twins which are a sequential setup, a 2jzge NA-T could hit 400hp with a small single turbo. An LS3 swap may be easier to start, as the 2jz option only has one really good option for an off the shelf kit, which will set you back quite a bit more compared to an LS swap kit. The 2jz can be easier to add hp depending on your turbo selection and injector size it would be a matter of turning up the boost. Where as on the LS you might have to start considering forced induction if the power bug hit you. Does it have to be manual? The 2jz manual options can be pricey. The V160/161 occupying over half of your budget with a good clutch. The CD009 while being much cheaper is still quite a bit in the conversion/adapting hardware. The R154 while also substantially cheaper with upgrades and a twin disc is still a good amount of your budget. The W58 can be a very cheap option, but also is known for not holding too much torque and power, not really a long term option. Easiest I imagine would be going from chevy to chevy. Someone else might be able to chime in regarding the mounts and stuff between a 350 and an LS. Any reason you don't want to push the 350 to 400hp? That seems like a lot of money to save a bit of weight with the LS if that was the route to go. I imagine new heads, different intake, maybe even a supercharger or blower would put you in that range with very minimal work.
  12. 1 point
    LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW
  13. 1 point
    Seems I'll be picking up the car in a week or two after I clear the trailer.. he accepted the offer of 5k.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Received my order today and as usual, I'm very pleased with the product, and service ... Thank You ~joel
  16. 1 point
    Here is the real answer. I've been racing Z's for 20 years, all different build types. Get a helmet with a fresh air vent. It's a foolproof method. I always have used the fuel rail cooler fan from the fuel injected ZX because it blows just right and doesn't use gobs of power. There are many brands of this. I prefer the helmet with the top air inlet as it doesn't bind and distract you when you turn your head back and forth. You can chase fume leaks until you're red faced, literally. This is the only thing I have depended on. We run 110 octane leaded fuel. Believe me, you know for a day or two that you were on the fumes. Greg Ira
  17. 1 point
    There are two wires that power the coil - one for Start and one for Run. Sounds like only your Start wire is connected. Or you haven't addressed the fuel pump relay contact switch in the AFM. Usually the engine will run for a few seconds before dying if it's the fuel pump contact.
  18. 1 point
    I carry a 40 cal or 357, no need for a gun rack...LOL
  19. 1 point
    I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.
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