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  1. 1 point
    I think we should all hold from speculating until the vendor has had a chance to respond. I will PM you the contact information I have for Joe at Chequered Flag.
  2. 1 point
    Sounds great! Yeah, it does sound like an L series still somehow, that was my first thought as well. Cool that it's in a car that's a driver and not a garage queen too.
  3. 1 point
    SN005 posted this on Church of L group on face book. He's happy:)
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Probably the "reaction disc" in the booster. A common enough problem that it has an FAQ entry. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/
  6. 1 point
    I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R
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