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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/25/17 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  2. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  3. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  5. 1 point
    Hello everyone, I've been a Nissan fanboy since I picked up my first 09 Nismo 370Z. I've been racing that ever since and eagerly eyeing an S30. I am a NASA National Instructor and compete in a wide variety of events in a wide variety of cars. I've earned trophies with NASA, SCCA, Chumpcar, completed the One Lap of America, and more. I'm sure you care much more about my Datsuns. Picked this up for a steal to give it a good home: my garage. It is a 1977 280Z with the L28ET from an 83 ZX. All done by the previous, previous owner. Originally from the west coast, it has very little rust after 3 years around Washington D.C.
  6. 1 point
    Hell- if you willing to spend that money , buy one of Datsun Works heads and something truly special
  7. 1 point
    Finished the stitch welding....nice to have that chore done....and moving forward at my normal glacial pace. Started building the supports for the main hoop of the roll cage. I included close-ups of this because I couldn't find much in detail about how people built these up on prior projects, hopefully some day someone might find the pictures useful. I pondered a bit wondering the best way to do it. I am using 12-gauge (.100") steel....which meets the SCCA requirements that cage bases be at least .080" thick. Thanks for looking.
  8. 1 point
    Lumber arrived last Friday. Now if it would just stop raining long enough for me to do some framing.
  9. 1 point
    Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel
  10. 1 point
    Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.
  11. 1 point
    I've figured it out, that I've never figured it out! At at least once a month I scratch my head and go WTH is that about. Best part ever is having adult children now. They look at her and go what's wrong with her! Makes me feel normal all these years I've scratched my hair out in utter confusion.
  12. 1 point
    I've been on this forum a few times during my searches for megasquirt answers. I recently acquired a 74 260z. The guy that owned it bought it in the late 70s, during the 80s he auto crossed it and ran it on the road courses. It's sat since 91 in his garage, now that's he's older the car is going to too much for him to tackle to get it back on the road. I asked to get a chance to buy it if ever decides to sell it. Well he ended up giving it to me, he just wants to see it back on the road again someday. He's owned half a dozen zs theought the years and collected a ton of parts. He's giving me them all as well as he un burys them. I got it to my garage yesterday, after doing a quick once over on it it's going to need both full floor pans, rockers, doors and a new hatch. He's giving me the doors and hatches that he has. He installed fiberglass fenders, and he said the rockers and quarters are glass as well. He's got a fiberglass hood for it. Ive always wanted to build a "wide body" car and being that this one is not in perfect shape I think it's a good candidate for that. I've found the quarters and fenders I like from ztrix.com. I'm a "Chevy guy" but I like and respect all engines. As easy as it would be to throw a sbc or LS engine in I want to stay with a Nissan 6cyl. If I didn't go with a Nissan then it would be getting a Buick V6. I would like to make 200-250 n/a horsepower. I am going to try to gather all the parts for it before I tear into it. I have to finish my current project a 72 ghia. I want to make a hot street car out of it. It will be auto crossed and road raced on occasion. I plan to come back to here for answers.
  13. 1 point
    That's it haha. Personally not a fan, but it can be done well, and probably more aerodynamic than some other options, and DEFINITELY better aero than stock.
  14. 1 point
    I am seeing a lot of references to bubble flares. Z cars should all be 10mm x 1.0 inverted flares. Bubble flares on a Z will leak.
  15. 1 point
    Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Thanks Dan! I'm not quite ready to announce the final number yet, but hopefully we can cover operating expenses for more than 6 months with this.
  18. 1 point
    Ls2 with Hoke performance kit installed in the 240Z last night. Pete
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    For a race car I go up to 8*, problem with the S30 is getting clearance for that figure. That's a bit much for a road car though, likely to wear the tyre tread inside.
  22. 1 point
    Yup, it was the brake booster. Replaced it and everything is good now! Thanks guys!
  23. 1 point
    That rotisserie and frame reach is ingenious! They definitely thought that design thru thuroughly with all the different ways to elevate, level and rotate the frame and chassis.
  24. 1 point
    $3600 for the Pandem (RB) kit from Greddy, so all said and done they are probably comparable in price, shipped and everything. I quite like the Speedforme kit as it's not *too* over the top, the car is still very much a S30, just with some flair and modern touches. Anyone that buys one will certainly win points for uniqueness too, since I doubt anyone in North America is running one, whereas I have seen a few Pandem and Moonbeam kits already. I never liked the rear valance on the Speedforme kit though - it doesn't seem to match the subtleness of the rest of it - so I did a quick photoshop altering it to make it cleaner. Less holes and less busy looking.
  25. 1 point
    WOW man..WOW..really? You're just digging yourself into a big hole. The typical "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor, is a Potentiometer. It varies voltage throughout its sweep, its a variable resistor called a Potentiometer, utilizing 3 wires. The 3 typical terminals would be VREF (Voltage Reference), GRD (Ground), and SIG/SGN (SIGNAL). The Z31 utilizes a single-connector TPS on manual cars, as throttle position SWITCH, and is only an idle switch. 86-89 Automatic cars have a secondary connector that has a potentiometer to show true throttle position for the transmission control module, while 84-85 are fully mechanical. ALL 86-89 cars have the connector in the engine wiring harness, but it does not do anything on manuals. The Automatic TPS has the secondary set wires on it with the connector, but the manual does not. The automatic TPS can be put on a manual car and it'll function perfectly everytime, you can even plug that connector in...but that connector isnt doing ANYTHING. Source: 1989 300ZX FSM Don't argue with stuff you don't know, and have just observed on your cars. I've made Z31 engine harness', I know where that connector goes, and its for nothing on the manual. If you get a chance to mess with nistune, you'll also notice it shows no throttle position on Z31 ECUs, but it will on Z32s. It shows "IDLESWITCH" as one of the possible faults. http://xenonz31.com/reference.html
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