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  1. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  2. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  3. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  5. 1 point
    Really enjoyed the write up in this month's issue of NASA Speed News, great work Tom! https://drivenasa.cld.bz/NASA-Speed-News-Volume-7-Issue-1-February/70/
  6. 1 point
    I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim
  7. 1 point
    All clean and freshly painted a pair of 240z front hubs with all new TEMKIN seals and bearings racers already installed. $150 shipped to your front door. Thanks, Juan.
  8. 1 point
    I thought it was a pretty good price for that piece, glad it worked out for you.
  9. 1 point
    Hell- if you willing to spend that money , buy one of Datsun Works heads and something truly special
  10. 1 point
    Now you just need a Braille battery with a custom Skillard battery box.🙄
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words Vanilla. I spent most of the day today getting the passenger side door hoop bent. It really fought me. To make it fit decently, bends in multiple planes are necessary, and each subsequent bend affects the angles of prior bends. It had me pulling my hair out, but on my fifth try I was finally satisfied with the fit. And of course, all the FAILS:
  12. 1 point
    After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  13. 1 point
    ^I think that would be kind of nice, along with yellow octopus's note. If someone was curious they could find the build list with links to specific threads, whether that is original content or a thread that helped shape their decision. Any feedback from Dan? I know he is a busy guy, but is this helpful? I know comments can even with the best of intensions be unwanted at some point. I think all of us here want this forum to survive, it would be nice if maybe our efforts could be directed towards specific problems.
  14. 1 point
    Not mine but you can try this ad: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/d/240z-260z-280z-whaletail-wing/6452838157.html
  15. 1 point
    Sorry, wasn't a question. It was a statement. I also degreed mine 8 degrees advanced from straight up.
  16. 1 point
    Well I think I'm averaging one post a year so here it is. First I'd like to thank those that pointed out the issues with the roll cage. When I took the car to the fabricator he mentioned the same thing and even said it was dangerous. So for those looking to follow in my footsteps don't install the cage like that. Now to the fun stuff. The car spent 3 months at the fabricator getting the following items taken care of: 1. Custom intercooler mount and piping 2. Radiator mounted along with piping 3. Full exhaust off the downpipes 4. Modified the 350z bellhousing to accept the Collins Adapter, custom shifter linkeage and Datsun Roadster starter 5. Modified diff mount 6. Mounted S2000 seats 7. Complete AC system!! I'll install the front airdam, driveshaft, pulleys before it heads off for tuning. It's looking like I'll be able to get it tuned in a couple months after my car fund recovers.
  17. 1 point
    Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.
  20. 1 point
    Yes I found that I get around a 1/10 of the adjustment out of the camber plates vs adjustable control arms. I think I wait to use the KMAC plates if I ever do a coilover conversion.
  21. 1 point
    yeah-but your engine only puts out low 700 HP-so....
  22. 1 point
    Glass pack is the problem. They will burn out with Turbo heat and aren't very good mufflers to begin with. You needs a tuned chamber muffler with a tuned chamber resonator. A chambered Magnaflow as a muffler is very good. You may want to add a second Magnaflow in the middle as a resonator. A couple of Magna Flow Ultra Flows are not going to cause a restriction. 3 " exhausts tend to drone worse than a 2.5" ( and 2.25 " ) Most guys make the mistake of not making the resonator big enough. Don't use a round resonator. Use an oval one. More area to absorb sound . Stealth is good... and lets you here things like DETONATION!! Very important on Turbo cars with no knock sensors. Make sure GF knows that you are making the extra effort for her. She will appreciate it. You may not be there yet, but..... a happy Wife makes a Happy Life. Applies to GF's as well. To a certain point... buy now we're discussing things that no man has ever truly figured out. Men's Brains vs Women's Brains
  23. 1 point
    I've been on this forum a few times during my searches for megasquirt answers. I recently acquired a 74 260z. The guy that owned it bought it in the late 70s, during the 80s he auto crossed it and ran it on the road courses. It's sat since 91 in his garage, now that's he's older the car is going to too much for him to tackle to get it back on the road. I asked to get a chance to buy it if ever decides to sell it. Well he ended up giving it to me, he just wants to see it back on the road again someday. He's owned half a dozen zs theought the years and collected a ton of parts. He's giving me them all as well as he un burys them. I got it to my garage yesterday, after doing a quick once over on it it's going to need both full floor pans, rockers, doors and a new hatch. He's giving me the doors and hatches that he has. He installed fiberglass fenders, and he said the rockers and quarters are glass as well. He's got a fiberglass hood for it. Ive always wanted to build a "wide body" car and being that this one is not in perfect shape I think it's a good candidate for that. I've found the quarters and fenders I like from ztrix.com. I'm a "Chevy guy" but I like and respect all engines. As easy as it would be to throw a sbc or LS engine in I want to stay with a Nissan 6cyl. If I didn't go with a Nissan then it would be getting a Buick V6. I would like to make 200-250 n/a horsepower. I am going to try to gather all the parts for it before I tear into it. I have to finish my current project a 72 ghia. I want to make a hot street car out of it. It will be auto crossed and road raced on occasion. I plan to come back to here for answers.
  24. 1 point
    Got the last of the backorders in and packaged up! They'll be in the mail tomorrow and should be in your hands by Wednesday Again, my apologies on the delays.
  25. 1 point
    I don't post here often, but as owner of FutoFab I thought I would chime in about the FutoFab STi conversion stub axles. FutoFab purchased the WCR stock after Todd Walrich passed. Part of this stock included the Beta Motorsports / John Williams designed stub axles. We also heard about breakage issues on those axles and decided if we were to carry on with STi stub axles, they would be made by a driveline shop from axle forgings, not machined from billet stock. We felt using an axle forging for our stub axles would improve the quality in 2 key areas. 1) The flange being forged onto the shaft allows the grain of the steel to "flow" into the flange rather than be cut as it would be when machined from a billet. 2) The heat treating on our forgings is done to the shaft only. Heat treatment penetrates roughly .20" to .25" into the surface of the metal. The treatment depth leaves the core of the shaft untreated, making it more flexible. While heat treating adds strength, it also makes steel more brittle. Because heat treatment will fully penetrate the thinner flanges, we prefer to use forgings with untreated flanges. Since we have changed to using forged shafts, we have not had a failure reported to us. Dave Patten, Owner
  26. 1 point
    This is a really old thread. Actually came back to this site because the time has come to pass my Z on to the next enthusiast. Site is super different now...
  27. 1 point
    The bottom hose Dayco #C7039 The top hose is made up of two hoses Dayco #D72039 is connected to the engine. Dayco D70704 is connected to the radiator. Bought hoses at Autozone.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Auto Zone Speedi-Boot! 03670 is a perfect fit on a 1976 280Z steering rack. Cut one step off of the big end and you are good to go. Use a wire tie on the big end, but keep it off of the little end. This allows inner tie-rod adjustment without twisting the boot. Allow the boot small end to cover the threads of the inner tie-rod. see images of full turn condition
  30. 1 point
    Found the problem. There is a relay attached to the motor which, I believe operates the parking system. Mine was toast. I bypassed it and now motor operates as long as I want. Just have to time shutting off wipers to park wipers correctly.
  31. 1 point
    I've been running a Spartan for a while and have had zero issues. I had nothing but headaches with my Inovate LC-1. Probably killed 3 or 4 O2 sensors. Derek
  32. 1 point
    Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it's time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them) And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights: Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before: After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly and Nissan had a person with bad soldeirng skills for their soldeirng work *lol*): Then the hood stay / lock mechanics: So here are all the parts ready for replating. Still need to remove old paint (will do that tomorrow) before sending them. In case if you wonder how i remember where all the parts belong - What you see on this blog is actually just a small fraction of the pictures i make. I like to make all kind of "exploded view" shots like the ones above to remember the order they came in (FSM is wrong sometimes, or a bit unclear). And i also mark my pictures as seen here. When the parts return i will put them in the boxes again which belong to each part of the car
  33. 1 point
    Seems I'll be picking up the car in a week or two after I clear the trailer.. he accepted the offer of 5k.
  34. 1 point
    Awesome news Ryan, again thanks so much for doing these apparel runs!
  35. 1 point
    getting there, engine is back in, ride height ist still too high but i guess it will settle down.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks Dan! I'm not quite ready to announce the final number yet, but hopefully we can cover operating expenses for more than 6 months with this.
  37. 1 point
    Ls2 with Hoke performance kit installed in the 240Z last night. Pete
  38. 1 point
    Hi again. On the last two weeks Mr.Vitorino worked on other projects and on the last days he worked in the Z. He started with the doors, and at first they seem in pretty nice shape...but then he found some clues on bad reparations years ago. With this he decided to separate the door panel from the structure and he was right, they need some intervetion. Tons of rust and event the protetion layer was completely cracked. This week I hope he finishes at least one door, because on Thursday I'm going to the shop. Meanwhile, the electric system was rebuilt and is now tunned for 1971, I'm talking about the rear plate lights. Let's see the pictures,,,and like I said...this was the correct moment for this Z... The interior as Mr. Vitorino suspected...passenger door. Drivers door with the same aspect... And based in this suspections we have decided to make a full reparation of the doors. Next photos are from the passenger door. Door panel and interior panel removed. I believe these were the worst parts of this car, and I'm aware of the rust on the front and rear arches and I think I'll be lucky. grannyknot: Thanks a lot. As you say, perfect time and Mr.Vitorino did the best option on the car. I'll put it back on 1971 with the original blue. I'll try to get all the details and put her 100% original. I think it's possible. The muffler happened because of this version I think. It still has the original muffler tip. I'll search with some other here in Portugal! JT1: Thanks a lot. That's exactly the 903. Love the colour on the car. This one is pretty but not the original. Rturbo930: Thanks a lot. For the moment only metal work. Hope you are enjoying this resto...next week some more news! Regards Mário
  39. 1 point
    For a race car I go up to 8*, problem with the S30 is getting clearance for that figure. That's a bit much for a road car though, likely to wear the tyre tread inside.
  40. 1 point
    Here is the real answer. I've been racing Z's for 20 years, all different build types. Get a helmet with a fresh air vent. It's a foolproof method. I always have used the fuel rail cooler fan from the fuel injected ZX because it blows just right and doesn't use gobs of power. There are many brands of this. I prefer the helmet with the top air inlet as it doesn't bind and distract you when you turn your head back and forth. You can chase fume leaks until you're red faced, literally. This is the only thing I have depended on. We run 110 octane leaded fuel. Believe me, you know for a day or two that you were on the fumes. Greg Ira
  41. 1 point
    Yup, it was the brake booster. Replaced it and everything is good now! Thanks guys!
  42. 1 point
    The printer said they were scheduled to run last Friday and then they have to ship the order to me. Hope that I'll get them by the middle of next week so I can pack and ship on the 18th. Give it a week to get to you guys and I'm thinking everyone should receive their stuff by the 25th.
  43. 1 point
    After talking with MSA they mentioned that one other way to differentiate between front and rear is the front spring should have about 10.5 coils and the rear should have about 12.5. If you look at the pictures the shorter spring has more coils (12.5). I think this is why some people give wrong information e.g. saying the rear spring should be the longer one when they probably mean the rear spring should be the one with more coils. Correct me if I'm wrong. In summary I think the following is what I've decided: Front spring: Par tnumber: 6305.001 Relative height/length: longer than the rear spring Number of coils: 10.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. Rear spring: Part nubmer: 6305.202 Relative height/length: shorter than the front spring Number of coils: 12.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. I still don't know why my front springs have an ever so slight outward bow to them. I installed the second one last night and it's not quite as bowed but still is a little.
  44. 1 point
    I have been testing the new server and forum software upgrade for a few weeks now and things have gone much better than I expected.. The move will start this coming Thursday morning 08-31-2017 and is expected to take about 6 hours to complete. The site will be inaccessible during the move and upgrade When the site becomes accessible again there are background rebuild process that will being running over the next few days to finalize the upgrade. Expect to see little glitches here and there during this time. Things like images disappearing, text formatting looking funny, search not working etc. Once these processes are complete I will post a note about it a create a support thread so any issues you guys have can posted. Know Your Password Make darn sure you know what your password is for your account and that your email address is up to date. DO THIS NOW!!! We cannot stress this enough. You may be required to login to the new forum once the site is back up. We know most of you stay permanently logged into the site and may have forgotten your password so you need to take care of that now.* Make Sure Your eMail Account is Current Make sure your email is up to date. This is the only way the system and the admins can communicate with you. Its the ONLY way password resets can be performed. Make sure your spam filter is not blocking emails from hybridz.org. This is very important because sending the admins requests to reset your password will most likely end up in the trash for security reasons. This is especially true if you send an email to an admin from an email account that is different than the one listed in your account profile. *Note about Facebook Login Recently there has been an issue with user trying to use Facebook to login to HybridZ. This issue will be resolved with the new version of the forum software. It was a change to the Facebook API that is not compatible with our current forum software.
  45. 1 point
    Greetings GTO kit owners, I have a GTO kit that I am restoring and modifying with LS1 and T56 of of 04 GTO. I have re-enforced the chassis and replaced the floor boards. I have started to finish the body (making the vents functional). I have a complete 2004 GTO w/T56 donor. I could use any advice before I start pulling the donor apart. Thanks Willie
  46. 1 point
    Here is the link to episode one of project binkey. I highly recommend everyone that is into this stuff watches the series as it's incredibly entertaining and very informative.
  47. 1 point
    Why wouldn't two of the stock gasket work in this situation? One on the front side of the plate, one on the back.
  48. 1 point
    $3600 for the Pandem (RB) kit from Greddy, so all said and done they are probably comparable in price, shipped and everything. I quite like the Speedforme kit as it's not *too* over the top, the car is still very much a S30, just with some flair and modern touches. Anyone that buys one will certainly win points for uniqueness too, since I doubt anyone in North America is running one, whereas I have seen a few Pandem and Moonbeam kits already. I never liked the rear valance on the Speedforme kit though - it doesn't seem to match the subtleness of the rest of it - so I did a quick photoshop altering it to make it cleaner. Less holes and less busy looking.
  49. 1 point
    There are two wires that power the coil - one for Start and one for Run. Sounds like only your Start wire is connected. Or you haven't addressed the fuel pump relay contact switch in the AFM. Usually the engine will run for a few seconds before dying if it's the fuel pump contact.
  50. 1 point
    I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.
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