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Showing most liked content since 11/22/16 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim
  2. 1 point
    Auto Zone Speedi-Boot! 03670 is a perfect fit on a 1976 280Z steering rack. Cut one step off of the big end and you are good to go. Use a wire tie on the big end, but keep it off of the little end. This allows inner tie-rod adjustment without twisting the boot. Allow the boot small end to cover the threads of the inner tie-rod. see images of full turn condition
  3. 1 point
    Ecoboost is just Fords slick marketing term for "turbocharged". Which engines are having these problems? Ford has many turbo engines. Also, posting in all caps is for 8 year olds and 70 year olds. Please refrain from doing so.
  4. 1 point
    LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW
  5. 1 point
    I've been trying to follow the 20-80 rule lately with my car, especially when it comes to metal work. You see lots of full restorations that dig into every spot to make sure every inch of rust is taken car of, even smaller areas. That's either REALLY high dollar restoration or a decade's worth of work for busy people. For 20% the effort or cost you get 80% results. Restoration/power costs both tend to be an exponential curve and the point of diminishing returns is different for everyone. I'm aiming for 40-50% the effort of those insane restorations and hoping for a solid B+ level car the next several years. It won't be particularly fast, it won't be a show car, some rust will still be present and hidden, but the frame will be a bit stiffer, it'll have more power than stock, the paint will be presentable with some minor imperfections, and most importantly, it won't be in the garage until I'm in deeper than I can get out of and never enjoy it.
  6. 1 point
    There's nothing wrong with this S30. It's got damn every part that we all like to put on our cars that is currently offered by vendors out there right now. ...But there's nothing overly special about it either, other than it's well done. We have members on this forum that have more unique and interesting cars that were made on a much smaller budget in a 2 car garage than this thing.
  7. 1 point
    One more thing to say. Did you ever drive a Turbo Z? Im saying this because the "Funfactor" depends on where you drive. I have a 274 BHP N/A Z and a 450 AWHP BMW. on twisted roads the N/A Z is so much more fun to drive then the Turbo BMW. on a light signal start or highway its the Turbo. Drive both types if you can and see what suits you best. (Gear change point at 7500 N/A with the sound of tripples is one of the best things I ever had -->The smile is much bigger with the Z...).
  8. 1 point
    Found the problem. There is a relay attached to the motor which, I believe operates the parking system. Mine was toast. I bypassed it and now motor operates as long as I want. Just have to time shutting off wipers to park wipers correctly.
  9. 1 point
    Honestly for the effort involved just take it to the pros. I got all my strikers for hood , doors, trunks, ashtray, gas cap and ring plated for 40 or 50 $ locally here in Ottawa. I chose yellow for half the stuff and silver for the other half. They first acid dipped to remove any dirt and oils then gave them back to me just asked me to wire brush and clean off any paints to bring the cost down. I feel like getting everything zinc plated
  10. 1 point
    Yeah! After talking to a race shop that gave me the idea, I did some searching and found Ronin did that for miata swaps.
  11. 1 point
    " left side only , damaged ( crack ) , repairable and paintable " I didn't know you could paint your headlight covers!
  12. 1 point
    I've been running a Spartan for a while and have had zero issues. I had nothing but headaches with my Inovate LC-1. Probably killed 3 or 4 O2 sensors. Derek
  13. 1 point
    Iv already done a L28E swap and Z 5 speed conversion on my 84 810/Maxima but now i need help with suspension and differential upgrades also any suggestions on wheels sizes for best street/ Road coarse performance without haveing to cut the wheels wells stretching them is fine tho
  14. 1 point
    I am seeing a lot of references to bubble flares. Z cars should all be 10mm x 1.0 inverted flares. Bubble flares on a Z will leak.
  15. 1 point
    Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it's time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them) And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights: Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before: After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly and Nissan had a person with bad soldeirng skills for their soldeirng work *lol*): Then the hood stay / lock mechanics: So here are all the parts ready for replating. Still need to remove old paint (will do that tomorrow) before sending them. In case if you wonder how i remember where all the parts belong - What you see on this blog is actually just a small fraction of the pictures i make. I like to make all kind of "exploded view" shots like the ones above to remember the order they came in (FSM is wrong sometimes, or a bit unclear). And i also mark my pictures as seen here. When the parts return i will put them in the boxes again which belong to each part of the car
  16. 1 point
    I used Hoke Performance 240Z mounts for my late 260Z (280 chassis)with an LS1/T56 and it works fine. Hoke's new 280Z mounts offer more room for the exhaust system, I used Hawks (American Racing) headers and had to downsize the exhaust from the header 3" out to 2 1/2" then back to 3" to feed through the mounts. The 280 mounts should easily fit a full 3" system. It didn't seem to effect my power output though. The steering shaft is a tight fit through the headers too. As far as I can tell it doesn't rub. The other problem I had was the LS1 alternator is different than the LS2 I had to trim the back plastic cover on the alternator just a bit to clear the motor mounts.
  17. 1 point
    Seems I'll be picking up the car in a week or two after I clear the trailer.. he accepted the offer of 5k.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks man. I'm just going to deal with the gap and check it everytime I have my car jacked up. I have a bigger problem though. The new bolt holes don't line up with my diff flange. The new DS bolt pattern has slightly more space between the bolt holes then my old one, so I can get 2 bolts in on the same side but I can't get the other 2 bolts in, because the DS holes and diff holes don't line up. So we called the place I bought the driveshaft and they're claiming that it doesn't make sense, and that for a '75 280Z coupe the driveshaft should fit. Also the bolt holes themselves are larger than on the old DS. I can wiggle the bolts around if I slide them in. I don't see why datsun would change the distance between the holes for no reason. Maybe a Z expert can chime in on that. So now I need to find out what year diff I have I guess? Did certain years of S30 differentials have different bolt patterns on the flange? It's possible my diff and driveshaft were switched out at some point in it's life, but I don't know what year it was switched with. Also the new driveshaft is half an inch shorter than my old one, but it doesn't make much of a difference. I'll go take measurements of my old DS bolt pattern to help find out what kind of diff this is. Then I'll edit them in this post. Edit: I measured the distance between the bolts diagnolly from the center of the holes and got 2.75". I also found this pic of differential flanges, mine is exactly like the left one. While I was doing this my dad got a call from the driveshaft shop and they said they found a flange with the same pattern as mine, and are going to custom make me one today to fit my diff flange. So hopefully everything works out and we don't have to do this a second time. Edit2: I just found out that I might have an R200 diff. I found comparison pictures between an R180 and an R200 and the cover on mine looks just like the R200. So that explains why the driveshaft shop had such trouble. Also, I don't think it's an LSD. With the car jacked up if I spin one wheel the other wheel turns the opposite way. Edit3: I'm only updating this still because I think this info will help people that might get in a similar situation. A lot of this seems obvious by now. I found out that from 70-78 S30s all use that differential flange on the left. Except '75 S30s, they use the middle flange. When I ordered my new driveshaft I told them my car was a 1975 280Z manual coupe, and that was that. Never occured to me that my diff might've been swapped. So they shipped me a driveshaft meant for that 75 Z flange. Since my car has an R200 from some other Z/ZX it didn't fit, and here we are now. I'll get my new driveshaft with the proper bolt pattern soon and then everything will be fine. Here's where I found the pic and the info on S30 diff flanges. http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html
  19. 1 point
    Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
  20. 1 point
    Awesome news Ryan, again thanks so much for doing these apparel runs!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Received my order today and as usual, I'm very pleased with the product, and service ... Thank You ~joel
  24. 1 point
    Do yourself a favor and call up Softopz on hybridz.. He build harnesses and does a great job. Reliability = a nice new fresh harness..Trust me!!!
  25. 1 point
    yeah man, that undercarriage is top notch!!! wow what a labour of love!
  26. 1 point
    getting there, engine is back in, ride height ist still too high but i guess it will settle down.
  27. 1 point
    Thanks Dan! I'm not quite ready to announce the final number yet, but hopefully we can cover operating expenses for more than 6 months with this.
  28. 1 point
    I sent off my revised design to the CNC shop this last week, hope to have new parts on hand end of next week. From there I have a sheetmetal shop waiting to a final measurement on the front mount. Then its off to make a larger batch of them. I'm not doing axles hubs etc. Theres many options and different price points depending on your needs. One guy on the v8 FB group reused the ford axels "Stock explorer axles cut down and resplined to fit 300zx TechnoTuning outer stubs" Which might be the cheapest option, I purchased the driveshaftshop's explorer to 930 cv adapters...
  29. 1 point
    That is why I have both.....
  30. 1 point
    Ls2 with Hoke performance kit installed in the 240Z last night. Pete
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Hi again. On the last two weeks Mr.Vitorino worked on other projects and on the last days he worked in the Z. He started with the doors, and at first they seem in pretty nice shape...but then he found some clues on bad reparations years ago. With this he decided to separate the door panel from the structure and he was right, they need some intervetion. Tons of rust and event the protetion layer was completely cracked. This week I hope he finishes at least one door, because on Thursday I'm going to the shop. Meanwhile, the electric system was rebuilt and is now tunned for 1971, I'm talking about the rear plate lights. Let's see the pictures,,,and like I said...this was the correct moment for this Z... The interior as Mr. Vitorino suspected...passenger door. Drivers door with the same aspect... And based in this suspections we have decided to make a full reparation of the doors. Next photos are from the passenger door. Door panel and interior panel removed. I believe these were the worst parts of this car, and I'm aware of the rust on the front and rear arches and I think I'll be lucky. grannyknot: Thanks a lot. As you say, perfect time and Mr.Vitorino did the best option on the car. I'll put it back on 1971 with the original blue. I'll try to get all the details and put her 100% original. I think it's possible. The muffler happened because of this version I think. It still has the original muffler tip. I'll search with some other here in Portugal! JT1: Thanks a lot. That's exactly the 903. Love the colour on the car. This one is pretty but not the original. Rturbo930: Thanks a lot. For the moment only metal work. Hope you are enjoying this resto...next week some more news! Regards Mário
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Also, my son and daughter work for a shop that does these shirts/hoodies/hats/etc. My son has done design work and has his own little side business selling logo products. Might be able to get a deal on them there if that helps to increase the donation potential or drop the purchase pricing while holding the donations the same maybe picking up more volume. Food for thought. I think long term, having a constant "store" for the shirts and other paraphernalia along with everyone doing consistent "membership" donations might be better than SuperDan getting frustrated at lack of support and the burst to make it up. I have been super busy with building a new house/shop and totally missed all the potential shut down. Read up last night and was really impressed by all the rallying support. I have personally just donated the recommended amount every year. from shortly after I got back into my 240Z project and found this site. I don't financially support many of these forums but this site is really a great place to be with great people and information so I felt it was important to support. Let me know if I can help out. Dave
  35. 1 point
    For a race car I go up to 8*, problem with the S30 is getting clearance for that figure. That's a bit much for a road car though, likely to wear the tyre tread inside.
  36. 1 point
    Here is the real answer. I've been racing Z's for 20 years, all different build types. Get a helmet with a fresh air vent. It's a foolproof method. I always have used the fuel rail cooler fan from the fuel injected ZX because it blows just right and doesn't use gobs of power. There are many brands of this. I prefer the helmet with the top air inlet as it doesn't bind and distract you when you turn your head back and forth. You can chase fume leaks until you're red faced, literally. This is the only thing I have depended on. We run 110 octane leaded fuel. Believe me, you know for a day or two that you were on the fumes. Greg Ira
  37. 1 point
    Yup, it was the brake booster. Replaced it and everything is good now! Thanks guys!
  38. 1 point
    The printer said they were scheduled to run last Friday and then they have to ship the order to me. Hope that I'll get them by the middle of next week so I can pack and ship on the 18th. Give it a week to get to you guys and I'm thinking everyone should receive their stuff by the 25th.
  39. 1 point
    Yeah, regarding the boxer swap, until someone actually gets it done and running, I'm not counting it. The purple V8 car you're talking about is the same one I was referring to, BTW. It belongs to a guy named Kevin Mackrell. I managed to find the other one I was talking about. The track width and wheel base make it look really wonky. http://jdm-culture.com/adree-hamid-r32-in-disguised-s30-240z/ Also, while looking, I managed to find mention of a third AWD Z, posted on this very forum. This one actually looks really impressive. Fourth post, by OlderThanMe.
  40. 1 point
    After talking with MSA they mentioned that one other way to differentiate between front and rear is the front spring should have about 10.5 coils and the rear should have about 12.5. If you look at the pictures the shorter spring has more coils (12.5). I think this is why some people give wrong information e.g. saying the rear spring should be the longer one when they probably mean the rear spring should be the one with more coils. Correct me if I'm wrong. In summary I think the following is what I've decided: Front spring: Par tnumber: 6305.001 Relative height/length: longer than the rear spring Number of coils: 10.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. Rear spring: Part nubmer: 6305.202 Relative height/length: shorter than the front spring Number of coils: 12.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. I still don't know why my front springs have an ever so slight outward bow to them. I installed the second one last night and it's not quite as bowed but still is a little.
  41. 1 point
    You do not have a proportioning valve problem. You have a MC push rod issue. The "distribution block" is called a brake switch and all it does is turn a light on if the front or rear brake circuit looses pressure. Leave it alone. You do not need an adjustable proportioning valve unless you will be racing and experimenting with brake pads. The brake set up you have is biased towards the front (70% F - 30% R). So reducing rear pressure will make your brakes perform worse. Your brakes are locking up because the push rod that goes into the MC is adjusted too far out. It should be adjust so that it just about touches the bottom of the depression on the end of the piston. The rod is preventing the piston from fully retracting which is causing the piston to cover the fluid return ports for the tanks. So each time you you step on the brakes you are filling the calipers, but the fluid can't flow back out. Do the following: Relieve the pressure by opening the MC bleeders. Keep the wrench in the car. You don't have to remove the MC. Just remove the two nuts and pull the MC away from the booster and push it aside. To adjust the push rod, hold the rod with needle nose pliers etc and use a small wrench to turn the adjustment nut inward a bit. NOTE: If you pull the push rod too far out you may drop the reaction disk into the bottom of the booster and your brakes will not work until you replace it. You will be sad. The push rod on my MC is about 13 to 15 mm out as measured from the tip of the adjuster to the face of the spacer block. Staying close to home drive the car and brake several times and drive around. Note: if the brakes are dragging (dragging = push rod too long) or if the pedal travel is too long (long pedal = push rod too short). If the brakes lock up, use the wrench you used on the MC bleeders and relieve the fluid pressure. Drive home and readjust the push rod one or two turns: Turn in (shorten) if brakes drag/lock up or Turn out (lengthen) if brake pedal is too long. Repeat until it is perfect. Write down the measurement of the rod each time you adjust it. Save the final measurement.
  42. 1 point
    I have been testing the new server and forum software upgrade for a few weeks now and things have gone much better than I expected.. The move will start this coming Thursday morning 08-31-2017 and is expected to take about 6 hours to complete. The site will be inaccessible during the move and upgrade When the site becomes accessible again there are background rebuild process that will being running over the next few days to finalize the upgrade. Expect to see little glitches here and there during this time. Things like images disappearing, text formatting looking funny, search not working etc. Once these processes are complete I will post a note about it a create a support thread so any issues you guys have can posted. Know Your Password Make darn sure you know what your password is for your account and that your email address is up to date. DO THIS NOW!!! We cannot stress this enough. You may be required to login to the new forum once the site is back up. We know most of you stay permanently logged into the site and may have forgotten your password so you need to take care of that now.* Make Sure Your eMail Account is Current Make sure your email is up to date. This is the only way the system and the admins can communicate with you. Its the ONLY way password resets can be performed. Make sure your spam filter is not blocking emails from hybridz.org. This is very important because sending the admins requests to reset your password will most likely end up in the trash for security reasons. This is especially true if you send an email to an admin from an email account that is different than the one listed in your account profile. *Note about Facebook Login Recently there has been an issue with user trying to use Facebook to login to HybridZ. This issue will be resolved with the new version of the forum software. It was a change to the Facebook API that is not compatible with our current forum software.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks, I'm really looking forward to it! Yes definitely one of those "big deal" cars and I'm excited to have been able to get my hands on one. I was nervous about your link comment; turns out turbo was correct about it being an ad. Since you mentioned links, if anyone wants to see what I normally work on feel free to visit the site I made for the shop! It's www.michaelsvintageracing.com. There are photos and videos of all the cars there!
  44. 1 point
    That rotisserie and frame reach is ingenious! They definitely thought that design thru thuroughly with all the different ways to elevate, level and rotate the frame and chassis.
  45. 1 point
    Why wouldn't two of the stock gasket work in this situation? One on the front side of the plate, one on the back.
  46. 1 point

    From the album PLATA ZVETTE

    HID headlights
  47. 1 point
    I carry a 40 cal or 357, no need for a gun rack...LOL
  48. 1 point
    I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.
  49. 0 points
    Boranni got their modern (hub) design from Dayton... You might say Boranni and Dayton wheels are essentially the same, because the only real difference is where the spoke go through the rim.
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