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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/19/17 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
  2. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  3. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  4. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  5. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  6. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  7. 1 point
    I've been on this forum a few times during my searches for megasquirt answers. I recently acquired a 74 260z. The guy that owned it bought it in the late 70s, during the 80s he auto crossed it and ran it on the road courses. It's sat since 91 in his garage, now that's he's older the car is going to too much for him to tackle to get it back on the road. I asked to get a chance to buy it if ever decides to sell it. Well he ended up giving it to me, he just wants to see it back on the road again someday. He's owned half a dozen zs theought the years and collected a ton of parts. He's giving me them all as well as he un burys them. I got it to my garage yesterday, after doing a quick once over on it it's going to need both full floor pans, rockers, doors and a new hatch. He's giving me the doors and hatches that he has. He installed fiberglass fenders, and he said the rockers and quarters are glass as well. He's got a fiberglass hood for it. Ive always wanted to build a "wide body" car and being that this one is not in perfect shape I think it's a good candidate for that. I've found the quarters and fenders I like from ztrix.com. I'm a "Chevy guy" but I like and respect all engines. As easy as it would be to throw a sbc or LS engine in I want to stay with a Nissan 6cyl. If I didn't go with a Nissan then it would be getting a Buick V6. I would like to make 200-250 n/a horsepower. I am going to try to gather all the parts for it before I tear into it. I have to finish my current project a 72 ghia. I want to make a hot street car out of it. It will be auto crossed and road raced on occasion. I plan to come back to here for answers.
  8. 1 point
    Body kits:Jim Cook Racing CAL-Z Wide Body Kit x2: $600 each, some cracks but in good usable shapecomplete 940Z kit: $800 nice kit in good shapekaminari kit: $800 new, never mountedIMSA kit with G-Nose: $1000 good usable shapeIMSA front and rear fenders: $700Whale tails x3: $200 eachWhale tail and hatch x2: $500 eachComplete GTO Velo Rossa kit: $4000 never mounted on a car with no cracks at allMisc mold-on fender flares set of four x3: $75 each, various condition some have minor cracksrear 3 piece spoilers x3: $75 each, various condition some have minor cracksFiberglass Hoods x10: most of these hoods are unique, but i have cowl induction hoods, stock style hoods, and one-of-a kind hoods. Each are $300 and are in good shape and mountable with no major damageMSA Type 1 like style Air dams (Ducted) x8: $100 each, these are also slightly different but the same style, although a few are the flexible urethane typeThere's probably some kits im forgetting but this is the bulk of them, i will be uploading pictures soon but if youre interested in any of the kits or are looking for a specific kit please dont hesitate to call me at 770-361-8955 or if i dont answer call my friend at 770-722-7250 and i can tell you what we have and send you pictures. Parts are located in Auburn, GA at my shop
  9. 1 point
    News Flash: "TimZ and Chickenman possessed/channeling TonyD on HybridZ..." My "ignore" button worked well... I had no clue what you guys were ranting about until I noticed the "You've chosen to ignore content by NewZed. Options" after the fact... Imagine that, the day TonyD was not the ranting guy. Imagine that!
  10. 1 point
    I don't ask. I can't afford it. I do it anyway, I'm old...what are they going to do repossess my ashen remains from the Neptune Society and resell them packaged in old Cremora bottles to recover my debts?
  11. 1 point
    Take it from people who have actually raced these things. Well before the Internet was ever thought of. Put the Red loctite on. Especially if you are going to push the engine at all. Engine harmonics do bloody strange things. Nothing wrong with a little insurance. I lost a $1,200 Tilton crank in 1977 dollars because a stupid engine builder ( not me ) used the wrong bolt on a Tilton Crank pulley. Tilton Damper had a thicker hub. Required longer bolt. Engine builder did NOT use Red Loctite. Probably would have held fine if he did. And actually... bolts DO back out. That's wire Race cars also use Safety Wire. As do Airplanes. When your life is on the line you want to make damned sure that a critical bolt doesn't come loose from Vibration. Belts and suspenders every time.
  12. 1 point
    Concur 100%. In my experience across several states, Zs only have a chance at truly being competitive in FP. Other classes will have cars that we can't keep up with, if they show up. It's never fun to be the only car in your class and "win." Like all forms of racing, one must maximize class allowances to allow the driver a chance to compete. The S30 just isn't a platform for competition against a modern car. It is however that platform that connects driver to the road most directly. Our Zs are among the most exciting cars to autocross in terms of adrenaline for this reason. Racers with faster times get out of my Z hooting and hollering. I'm with Jon. I target competing against a few cars or drivers. I prefer to have a passenger than drive alone. Why hog the adrenaline? Get in! I pursue excitement. I feel like I win, because I'm driving my dream car since I was 17. And that's my best victory, really. FWIW.
  13. 1 point
    I went to fabric shop bought some thin foam and black marine vinyl. You can take your old as a stencil and make it a bit bigger you have about half an to an ich where you can pinch it in. Mine came off my roof wasnt clean and used a weak adhesive.
  14. 1 point
    yeah, getting aluminum honeycomb, or honeycomb in general, to lay nicely over complex compound curves is inherently a challenge. It has massive compression strength. Shear, not so much, like you mention. Depending on the complexity of the geometry, you can sometimes carefully scarf, and bevel, core to make them flex, bend, or conform better. Sometimes you must cut the core into many sections and lay them side by side, instead of one continuous piece. It definitely can be tricky. Getting resin within the combs themselves shouldn't happen, if you're using the proper materials that these were designed around. Prepregs. If you're using these types of cores, you should NOT be using hand layup. That defeats the purpose. Very much like a laminate that includes both chopped strand mat, and a carbon fiber skin. That is not a "carbon" laminate. That's mostly fiberglass and the carbon is doing very little, if anything, to the structure of the layup. You see virtually no weight savings over the "fiberglass" versions...and the carbon isn't even allowed to do its job... It's simply a more aesthetically pleasing cover, which there's nothing wrong with...just stop calling it a "carbon X". If you're using prepregs and honeycomb it is a breeze. The prepreg fabric only has enough catalyzed resin for itself, so you must use a sheet of "film adhesive" (a literal sheet of catalyzed resin) to join the fabrics to the core. The film adhesive is just enough resin to, in a perfect world, form a little meniscus over the top of each of the combs, holding a firm and uniform bond between the skin and core. If it is too resin rich, the laminate becomes heavier (like you said) and brittle. Resin rich comes from hand layup. In a perfect world, when you test the physicals of the laminate, the core itself will fail, and the skins will not delaminate. high density foams are a wonderful material, and work well in combination with honeycombs, but as you can see from even my brief touching on the topic...there is a lot of variability, and tailor-ability to composites....which is one of its greatest advantages. If you understand the materials, and how they are designed to be used, you can customize the laminate to do exactly what you want, where you want. Only robust in those areas that need it, or strong in a certain force, while others areas that don't need said requirements can be as lightweight as possible. I think the main reason behind most doors being metal is simply it's the best bang for the buck. It's wonderful at dispersing load, and provides good intrusion protection. You will absolutely see a weight savings with a carbon, cored, door over its metal counterpart - but doing so would add exorbitant cost and effort. As far as physical performance, the carbon door would be superior in virtually every way, but only if properly constructed. If not properly constructed, it could be devastating. I was extremely lucky to learn from, quite frankly, one of the Composites wold's leading authorities, Henry Elliot. Now a head consultant for the Oracle Team USA Americas Cup team. I oringinally had planned to make full carbon, FIA legal, composite doors while at school. When I told him about the project, he raised his eyebrows big time... Basically told me not to do it....he told me that the juice was not going to be worth the squeeze. "if ten pounds is what makes or breaks your race, you're on an entirely different level of skill.....Don't sacrifice safety for weight, that's not how composites are supposed to work." "don't sacrifice safety by chasing numbers." is essentially what he told me. If you aren't going into making doors with these thoughts in mind, you shouldn't be making doors. That's my humble opinion.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies the links will be a great help. jcb
  16. 1 point
    His car is a series one, and yours is a non-US '78 260Z, so you should expect a bit more weight, all else equal. I read a post from John C once saying that an early 280Z chassis was 100lbs heavier than a late 240Z, and a late 280Z was 300lbs heavier than an early 240Z. Seems like a big difference for just a chassis (I believe that was the context) but that's the only info I've ever found. I have a '76 chassis and an early 71 chassis, and I'm hoping I can weigh the two while stripped down and compare. I don't know how the non US late models compare to the US models.
  17. 1 point
    Anything is possible with a drill, angle grinder, and a welder.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for all the inputs, I Installed a larger MC because the plans was to install the larger Toyota calipers and ventilated rotors, but I have been a little short on budget, I just ordered the spacers and the rotors, and I'm waiting for them to arrive (I live in Guatemala so that will take a few weeks ). And just as aditional info, I installed an electrical vacuum pump, 20 inch of vacuum, and the feeling was the same, so I opted to finally swap to the toyota calipers. I will keep you posted, Thanks guys,
  19. 1 point
    Hello everyone, I've been a Nissan fanboy since I picked up my first 09 Nismo 370Z. I've been racing that ever since and eagerly eyeing an S30. I am a NASA National Instructor and compete in a wide variety of events in a wide variety of cars. I've earned trophies with NASA, SCCA, Chumpcar, completed the One Lap of America, and more. I'm sure you care much more about my Datsuns. Picked this up for a steal to give it a good home: my garage. It is a 1977 280Z with the L28ET from an 83 ZX. All done by the previous, previous owner. Originally from the west coast, it has very little rust after 3 years around Washington D.C.
  20. 1 point
    This is how you lift a head off with a helper. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note assistant was present to photodocument the process. This really should be put in the FAQ, the pictures make it so much clearer, huh?
  21. 1 point
    Hi Guys, there is big differances with CVs. If parts wern't heat treated they would self destruct in no time. My kit is priced the way it is as I only use good quality parts. This is the CVs I use in my kit. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=301174M-28M As you can see they are $265.00 each that's almost a 1/3 of the cost of my kit. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html Joe
  22. 1 point
    Lumber arrived last Friday. Now if it would just stop raining long enough for me to do some framing.
  23. 1 point
    This is a really old thread. Actually came back to this site because the time has come to pass my Z on to the next enthusiast. Site is super different now...
  24. 1 point
    First off welcome to the forums. 2nd, we don't really use the word best here, in fact it is a forum rule/guideline take a minute and peruse it, you will find a more intelligent discussion if you can phrase the question more precisely. One could make a numerical argument for something over the other, but best is a matter of opinion and is highly subject on purpose, use, budget, place in life, location, etc etc etc. There really is no best, semantically there can not be a best of two options, one can only be better then the other, once again still highly subject. They are very different engines that deliver power differently, it will be up to you to decide what you want. An LS3 could probably be pushed to 400 or so HP NA I imagine. Linear torque curve and all. The 2jzgte can hit 400 on the stock twins which are a sequential setup, a 2jzge NA-T could hit 400hp with a small single turbo. An LS3 swap may be easier to start, as the 2jz option only has one really good option for an off the shelf kit, which will set you back quite a bit more compared to an LS swap kit. The 2jz can be easier to add hp depending on your turbo selection and injector size it would be a matter of turning up the boost. Where as on the LS you might have to start considering forced induction if the power bug hit you. Does it have to be manual? The 2jz manual options can be pricey. The V160/161 occupying over half of your budget with a good clutch. The CD009 while being much cheaper is still quite a bit in the conversion/adapting hardware. The R154 while also substantially cheaper with upgrades and a twin disc is still a good amount of your budget. The W58 can be a very cheap option, but also is known for not holding too much torque and power, not really a long term option. Easiest I imagine would be going from chevy to chevy. Someone else might be able to chime in regarding the mounts and stuff between a 350 and an LS. Any reason you don't want to push the 350 to 400hp? That seems like a lot of money to save a bit of weight with the LS if that was the route to go. I imagine new heads, different intake, maybe even a supercharger or blower would put you in that range with very minimal work.
  25. 1 point
    I was explaining helicals yesterday on another site and came up with what I think is my most concise and clear explanation to date, so I cleaned it up a bit and figured I'd repost it elsewhere. Helical diffs work like this: two large side gears in the carrier are connected to the axles, and a bunch of worm gears drive off of each side gear and ride on each other in the center. The worm gears connect the two side gears together, so that when one side gear turns at a different speed than the other, all of the worm gears must also turn. When there is no load (no torque) and the unit is not preloaded (some are preloaded from the factory, some aren't), you can jack up the rear end and spin one side with one finger and the other side spins very easily in the opposite direction. There is probably even less resistance than a normal open diff and spider gears. When you put power to it though, the torque drives the side gears outwards into the case, and all the worm gears get driven inwards to the bottom of their machined pockets in the carrier. The force of these gears jammed up in all of their respective slots is what creates the resistance to differentiation. All of the gears also try to walk off of the gear they're riding on, so there is axial and radial friction between every gear and the case. If you try to spin one wheel at a different speed, it must turn all of the gears in the differential while they're loaded. The amount of force produced here can be quantified by how much torque it can hold. This is what is called the Torque Bias Ratio. Really aggressive TBR's are 5:1, most common are ~3:1. This means that a 5:1 TBR can keep putting power to the wheel with less traction until it has 1/5 or 1/3 the traction of the other wheel and the torque applied does not exceed the traction of the inside tire. If you have less traction available or apply too much power so that you get wheel spin, then the gears inside lose some of their friction against the case. As the speed differential between the wheel speed and the car speed increases on the wheel that is unloaded, internal friction in the limited slip decreases and that tire spins more and more freely. If one wheel comes off the ground and there is no preload, all of the torque goes straight to the lifted tire. As soon as traction is restored, the diff resumes the task of limiting slip. This definition that I've given is not typical, and I know it. Usually you see something like "the differential takes the torque at the wheel with less traction and transfers it to the wheel with traction" or "sends traction from the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips". You might see some math applied: "If the inside tire can put down 100 lb/ft of torque, the LSD will send 300 lb/ft to the outside tire." This is really not what is happening at all. It's more accurate to say that the helical LSD can lock the axles together to a certain degree by applying friction equally to both axles to prevent it, and once you go beyond the limits of the friction created by the diff or the traction available at the lesser tire and try to put torque down, you get wheel spin. There is no gear reduction mechanism in the diff, no mechanism to take power from one side and add it to the other. The limited slip acts uniformly on both sides. By way of contrast, traction control systems actually change the speed of one tire vs the other by applying the inside brake really do SEND the power from one side to the other by limiting drive to the spinning tire and applying more torque and power to the side with drive. Helical limited slips do not do this (no limited slip that I know of does). We may truthfully say that the inside tire is putting 100 lbs of torque to the ground and the outside is putting 300 in a helical example, but the gears inside the diff are still applying the same amount of frictional force to both axles to resist differentiation. Limited slips allow wheel speeds to differentiate for corners and still maintain the ability to resist spinning one tire out of control, but they are not "sending power from the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips". LSDs are like sway bars in that respect. They attach to both axles of the car, so whatever effect they have is shared on both sides. The result of their equal effort can be quantified in terms of how much more power can go to the outside tire before the inside starts slipping, but the effect is not obtained by virtue of the diff transferring power to the outside tire, it occurs because the diff resists slipping and the fact that there is more traction at the outside tire. If you have a clutch LSD shimmed really tight, it might have a TBR of 1000:1 or maybe it would even be locked up solid and be infinite like a spool. But that doesn't mean that a diff with an infinite TBR puts infinitely more power to the axle with traction. It means that it drives the axles EXACTLY EQUALLY and if one side has traction it does infinitely more work than the side that has none.