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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/18/17 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  2. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  3. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  4. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  5. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  6. 1 point
    I've been on this forum a few times during my searches for megasquirt answers. I recently acquired a 74 260z. The guy that owned it bought it in the late 70s, during the 80s he auto crossed it and ran it on the road courses. It's sat since 91 in his garage, now that's he's older the car is going to too much for him to tackle to get it back on the road. I asked to get a chance to buy it if ever decides to sell it. Well he ended up giving it to me, he just wants to see it back on the road again someday. He's owned half a dozen zs theought the years and collected a ton of parts. He's giving me them all as well as he un burys them. I got it to my garage yesterday, after doing a quick once over on it it's going to need both full floor pans, rockers, doors and a new hatch. He's giving me the doors and hatches that he has. He installed fiberglass fenders, and he said the rockers and quarters are glass as well. He's got a fiberglass hood for it. Ive always wanted to build a "wide body" car and being that this one is not in perfect shape I think it's a good candidate for that. I've found the quarters and fenders I like from ztrix.com. I'm a "Chevy guy" but I like and respect all engines. As easy as it would be to throw a sbc or LS engine in I want to stay with a Nissan 6cyl. If I didn't go with a Nissan then it would be getting a Buick V6. I would like to make 200-250 n/a horsepower. I am going to try to gather all the parts for it before I tear into it. I have to finish my current project a 72 ghia. I want to make a hot street car out of it. It will be auto crossed and road raced on occasion. I plan to come back to here for answers.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Really enjoyed the write up in this month's issue of NASA Speed News, great work Tom! https://drivenasa.cld.bz/NASA-Speed-News-Volume-7-Issue-1-February/70/
  9. 1 point
    I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim
  10. 1 point
    Hi Guys, there is big differances with CVs. If parts wern't heat treated they would self destruct in no time. My kit is priced the way it is as I only use good quality parts. This is the CVs I use in my kit. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=301174M-28M As you can see they are $265.00 each that's almost a 1/3 of the cost of my kit. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html Joe
  11. 1 point
    ^I think that would be kind of nice, along with yellow octopus's note. If someone was curious they could find the build list with links to specific threads, whether that is original content or a thread that helped shape their decision. Any feedback from Dan? I know he is a busy guy, but is this helpful? I know comments can even with the best of intensions be unwanted at some point. I think all of us here want this forum to survive, it would be nice if maybe our efforts could be directed towards specific problems.
  12. 1 point
    Best to start a new thread for this as not to clutter up his build thread
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.
  15. 1 point
    First off welcome to the forums. 2nd, we don't really use the word best here, in fact it is a forum rule/guideline take a minute and peruse it, you will find a more intelligent discussion if you can phrase the question more precisely. One could make a numerical argument for something over the other, but best is a matter of opinion and is highly subject on purpose, use, budget, place in life, location, etc etc etc. There really is no best, semantically there can not be a best of two options, one can only be better then the other, once again still highly subject. They are very different engines that deliver power differently, it will be up to you to decide what you want. An LS3 could probably be pushed to 400 or so HP NA I imagine. Linear torque curve and all. The 2jzgte can hit 400 on the stock twins which are a sequential setup, a 2jzge NA-T could hit 400hp with a small single turbo. An LS3 swap may be easier to start, as the 2jz option only has one really good option for an off the shelf kit, which will set you back quite a bit more compared to an LS swap kit. The 2jz can be easier to add hp depending on your turbo selection and injector size it would be a matter of turning up the boost. Where as on the LS you might have to start considering forced induction if the power bug hit you. Does it have to be manual? The 2jz manual options can be pricey. The V160/161 occupying over half of your budget with a good clutch. The CD009 while being much cheaper is still quite a bit in the conversion/adapting hardware. The R154 while also substantially cheaper with upgrades and a twin disc is still a good amount of your budget. The W58 can be a very cheap option, but also is known for not holding too much torque and power, not really a long term option. Easiest I imagine would be going from chevy to chevy. Someone else might be able to chime in regarding the mounts and stuff between a 350 and an LS. Any reason you don't want to push the 350 to 400hp? That seems like a lot of money to save a bit of weight with the LS if that was the route to go. I imagine new heads, different intake, maybe even a supercharger or blower would put you in that range with very minimal work.
  16. 1 point
    Found the problem. There is a relay attached to the motor which, I believe operates the parking system. Mine was toast. I bypassed it and now motor operates as long as I want. Just have to time shutting off wipers to park wipers correctly.
  17. 1 point
    Seems I'll be picking up the car in a week or two after I clear the trailer.. he accepted the offer of 5k.
  18. 1 point
    Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
  19. 1 point
    I sent off my revised design to the CNC shop this last week, hope to have new parts on hand end of next week. From there I have a sheetmetal shop waiting to a final measurement on the front mount. Then its off to make a larger batch of them. I'm not doing axles hubs etc. Theres many options and different price points depending on your needs. One guy on the v8 FB group reused the ford axels "Stock explorer axles cut down and resplined to fit 300zx TechnoTuning outer stubs" Which might be the cheapest option, I purchased the driveshaftshop's explorer to 930 cv adapters...
  20. 1 point
    Also, my son and daughter work for a shop that does these shirts/hoodies/hats/etc. My son has done design work and has his own little side business selling logo products. Might be able to get a deal on them there if that helps to increase the donation potential or drop the purchase pricing while holding the donations the same maybe picking up more volume. Food for thought. I think long term, having a constant "store" for the shirts and other paraphernalia along with everyone doing consistent "membership" donations might be better than SuperDan getting frustrated at lack of support and the burst to make it up. I have been super busy with building a new house/shop and totally missed all the potential shut down. Read up last night and was really impressed by all the rallying support. I have personally just donated the recommended amount every year. from shortly after I got back into my 240Z project and found this site. I don't financially support many of these forums but this site is really a great place to be with great people and information so I felt it was important to support. Let me know if I can help out. Dave
  21. 1 point
    That rotisserie and frame reach is ingenious! They definitely thought that design thru thuroughly with all the different ways to elevate, level and rotate the frame and chassis.
  22. 1 point
    There are two wires that power the coil - one for Start and one for Run. Sounds like only your Start wire is connected. Or you haven't addressed the fuel pump relay contact switch in the AFM. Usually the engine will run for a few seconds before dying if it's the fuel pump contact.
  23. 1 point
    This is a just a 14mm x 1.5 LH nut I'm pretty sure. McMaster Carr? Or belmetric.com https://www.belmetric.com/left-hand-nuts-zinc-class-8-c-1039_1042_1055.html
  24. 1 point
    WOW man..WOW..really? You're just digging yourself into a big hole. The typical "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor, is a Potentiometer. It varies voltage throughout its sweep, its a variable resistor called a Potentiometer, utilizing 3 wires. The 3 typical terminals would be VREF (Voltage Reference), GRD (Ground), and SIG/SGN (SIGNAL). The Z31 utilizes a single-connector TPS on manual cars, as throttle position SWITCH, and is only an idle switch. 86-89 Automatic cars have a secondary connector that has a potentiometer to show true throttle position for the transmission control module, while 84-85 are fully mechanical. ALL 86-89 cars have the connector in the engine wiring harness, but it does not do anything on manuals. The Automatic TPS has the secondary set wires on it with the connector, but the manual does not. The automatic TPS can be put on a manual car and it'll function perfectly everytime, you can even plug that connector in...but that connector isnt doing ANYTHING. Source: 1989 300ZX FSM Don't argue with stuff you don't know, and have just observed on your cars. I've made Z31 engine harness', I know where that connector goes, and its for nothing on the manual. If you get a chance to mess with nistune, you'll also notice it shows no throttle position on Z31 ECUs, but it will on Z32s. It shows "IDLESWITCH" as one of the possible faults. http://xenonz31.com/reference.html
  25. 1 point
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