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  1. well old story , but MAG58 was right, mercedes M104 head is possible on a datsun L28 stroked , build is not over but we will see what happens soon bye bye Didier
    4 points
  2. **UPDATE Went to court yesterday and basically played dumb. Told the judge that "I went to the state ref and he told me since the car is so old that he couldn't do anything to certify it. So how do I go about taking car of this ticket. The vehicle is a pre smog vehicle so I've never had to SMOG it" The judge said "Ok so what Im going to do here is dismiss the case cuz it seems like your car doesn't qualify for an inspection. Sorry about the inconvenience Mr. Soto" I tried to play it cool but I was so happy. After reading all the horror stories from other people about having to revert to stock and all that I was lucky I guess Hope this thread helps someone going through something similar
    4 points
  3. Greetings Everyone, Due to the increase in spammers HybridZ, registration has changed from being automatic to manual. That means one of the Admins will need to approve any new registrants. If you ask or tell someone about HybridZ (please do) let them know registration isn't automatic anymore. We'll do our best to stay on top of any additions and hopefully you all will see a lot less spam. Thanks, The HybridZ moderation team
    4 points
  4. Unfortunately, it is too late. Maybe for round 6 in a couple of years Got the shirts in and will start breaking things down and shipping things out next week. This week is busy with work travel, so appreciate your patience while I get a few out each day on my lunch breaks.
    3 points
  5. They received all of the shirts without backorders and are starting on printing this afternoon!
    3 points
  6. I really wish things would swing back towards the forums. I can't tell you how many times I know the answer to or could add to a post on FB but I don't since it really has no longevity. I always felt like I was adding to the overall knowledge base when I posted here. I can go on and on but I really hate it.
    3 points
  7. First start up since starting the restoration. Kind of shocked she started right up on the first go. Was expecting something on the MegaJolt to need fixing, but it worked great. Went with Magnacor wires, but they made a mistake and did not fit them up with the right coil boots. Being remade and shipped, so I am using 05’ ford explorer NGK wires for now. Went with a “7” heat NGK plug on account of the 10:1 CR. It’s raining this weekend, but just need to dial-in some crude alignment and she will be road worthy IMG_2339.mov
    3 points
  8. Just wanted to say again a HUGE "Thank You" to @cockerstar for doing this (a FIFTH time)!!!! Really appreciate all his time and effort to make this happen. You da' man, Ryan!!! 👍👍
    3 points
  9. Life has been kicking my ass lately! Between my job changing significantly, being super sick, and some significant medical issues with my daughter I haven’t made the progress on shipping orders that I have wanted to. Post here if you’re really itching to get yours and I’ll move it to the top of my list. Otherwise I’m moving along as ordered. I’d like to get these wrapped up so I can transfer the remaining funds over to Dan.
    2 points
  10. We’re going on track this Sunday at Willow springs Will set-up the car tomorrow at a friends shop since they have a flat-level garage floor (which I do not). Also in the middle of adapting the front brakes to 280zx rotor and caliper per EP spec-line. Caliper mounting on the strut assembly will require some welding and drilling, so it will have to wait till after this weekend. Greg Ira was nice enough to ship me some race pads he has that fit the OEM calipers.
    2 points
  11. Hi everyone! I have the shirts and should be able to start getting some out today. I was primarily working from home at least 80% of the time, but my job just got pushed to 60-80% travel so I haven't had breaks at home like I used to.
    2 points
  12. Well, after more testing, it seems to be a user error. Was able to drive for a good hour today without and bucking/shudders. I think it's a combination of a new clutch and upgraded transmission/rear end that I have to get used to. The car seems to like higher rpms when starting from a stop, and a different clutch engagement that what it was before. Car is much more fun with the new parts. Not a fast car, but a fun one.
    2 points
  13. No, you just pull the bearings off of the front of their shafts. The countershaft bearing is pretty tight to the gear and takes some trickery. The mainshaft bearing needs a puller with long arms. You can push the rods back to get more room. The transmission will have multiple gears engaged but it won't matter. When you reinstall the front case put it in a single gear (one rod moved) to avoid locking up the transmission by accident. Here's a decent video about the countershaft bearing, different tranmsision but same concepts. He did the same thing I did, clamping a two jaw puller in to the gap, otherwise the jaws pop off. The mainshaft is a more normal operation but the length of the shaft has to be managed. It takes some work. If you have friends that have pulled bearings or gears it might be worhtwhile to get some more ideas and tools on-hand. Notice the odd combination. Go to 4:00 if it doesn't start there.
    2 points
  14. 4th gear doesn't use the countershaft, it's direct drive. That's a good clue. Sounds more like the countershaft bearing. Looks like you'll need to split the cases, so you might as well do the mainshaft/input shaft bearing also. It's not a super-finesse job. Just needs some ingenuity. It's fun. Part of Z ownership. Here's a good illustration of the parts you'll be looking at. I'm sure that there are "how-to" videos out there somewhere. You can get a factory service manual on the internet that shows how to take it apart. Good luck. https://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm
    2 points
  15. "Grinding" is not very specific. Can you add details? Have you driven it? Is it the same in every gear? 71B's are known for destroying the adapter plate bearings. Did you find any metal on the drain plug magnet? If you've been driving it you might drain the fluid and see how it looks. Might also be worthwhile to lift the car and get underneath with the engine running to see if you can locate the noise. Replacing the main and countershaft bearings is not very difficult. You only have to split the cases and pull the bearings off of the ends of the shafts. The adapter plate bearings are more difficult.
    2 points
  16. Order is with the screen printer and will keep you guys posted when I get an ETA on delivery.
    2 points
  17. Finally got this thing tuned right, kept fighting an issue where the car would break up on quick throttle changes and in boost. Engine had NGK b6es-11 plugs, I went to a NGK bpr7es and all my problems disappeared. Engine is leaking oil pretty bad though from what looks like where the timing cover and cylinder head meet, l am genuinely amazed at how much oil can come out of there. The stock head gasket was torn there, and I RTVed it up a lot after the fact. Maybe my PCV valve is faulty and pressurizing that area under boost? Once I get this oil leak handled Ill take it to the dyno.
    2 points
  18. Yup! Been daily driving it, 300+ days a year, for the last 4 years. Approaching 75,000 miles on the turbo build. No regrets.
    2 points
  19. @calZ, I spoke with John yesterday and I'm going to do another round. 36 item minimum from my print shop, but I think we can hit that!
    2 points
  20. I am still around, I don't check regularly. I still have my Z. I joined here when I was 15, I am about to turn 38.
    2 points
  21. Lower part of the bumper is started. Used a fiberglass gnose to take dimensions from, happy with how everything is coming out.
    1 point
  22. Those are the new emulsion tubes he created. He also made new idle jets for weak vacuum(normal with a hotter cam) my 2.75L engine produces 275bhp with 45dcoes and 37mm venturies and runs close to a injected engine except the difference in hot/cold and high/low altitude. You can subscribe, give him your engine and dcoe specs, tell him your problem and he will help with a lot of patience and knowledge until it works.
    1 point
  23. Got around to making some vinyl covers for the set I will be installing to match what I upholstered the rest of the interior in. They aren't perfect but they will do the job just fine. It was a decent bit of work to get them sewn up and glued on, painting them would have been much easier.
    1 point
  24. Hello all, Yet another one 1974 Z in a slow progress project. Gen 4 LSA with Lingenfelter heads, LS 9 cam, 2,4 upper pulley, 180 degree headers, homemade engine mounts and gearbox mount. T56 from a Corvette modified with bell housing, tail from a Camaro, mechanical speedometer, and Magnum mid plate with bigger bearings. Porsche boxster S calipers front and rear BMW f31 disc front rear,Twin master cylinder for balance, front hubs from Nissan S13, rear end from a ZXT and CVs(R200,4:11), Rear homemade control arms 16mm narrower (5/8), new half shafts to match control arms, Steering rack from a UK Vauxhall Corsa/Nova(power steering). Interior will see a cage(not fabricated yet), Cobra Nogaro seats with harness. Wheels are Rota RBs widened in rear to 9,5X17, front narrowed down to 7,5 x17 to get proper scrub radius, tires are Nankaang AR1 225x45-17 front and 255x40-17 rear. BC coil overs.
    1 point
  25. Good News, replaced both the front main-shaft and front counter-shaft bearings which solved my grinding problems! So, to recap the project, I am finished installing a 82 280zx transmission, r200 3.9 rear diff, and a new clutch disk and pp. Bad news is that I now have a shudder and a howl noise. The shudder happens when accelerating from a stop. It feels like the diff is grinding/not catching. It seems like the problem does not occur when I keep the revs high when accelerating from a stop. Does not happen in any gear besides 1st. It might just be a user error with me not being used to the new clutch/tranny. I've read that adding some friction modifier helps with this issue in LSD's, but IK this is an open diff. Could that help here? The howling noise I'm pretty sure is transmission related, as it only occurs in 1-3rd gears. It does seem to follow the rpms and go up when accelerating, but disappears in 4th. It is not that loud to begin with though.
    1 point
  26. I suppose it is time for some updates. Lots of work accomplished since holidays but not much to photograph. Finished all the strut builds and got them bolted up. Completed the clutch build and mated the tranny. Dropped engine back in and found if I raise the engine mounts 1/8" on each side it will clear my steering rack. Yeah. Finally caught up from my last minute changes and medical setbacks. I feel 10 years younger now and kicking ass in the shop. Getting closer to first fire. Have a 2nd Z car in the shop now and a 3rd coming. More on that later.
    1 point
  27. Looks like the motor is okay after all, 5 of my coils were on their way out and causing some misfires especially in boost. This must have been washing the cylinder and increasing blowby. A set of 6 coils for $60 and things are looking great. Now my VE tables need readjusting, but then dyno.
    1 point
  28. So this is the finished product if anyone else is interested. It is made out TPU which is very flexible (and hard to print). I have used TPU to create plugs for my floors, wiring grommets and other such.
    1 point
  29. I have made a little more progress on this GTO.
    1 point
  30. Hey Aydin, in the US, the 3.9 was '04-'05 only unfortunately. The '06 was unique in that it was a CLSD 3.54--'07 and later were all helical 3.54. Good thinking! I'm planning on inspecting the carrier and replacing clutches once the diff arrives. I had ordered fresh clutches from Racing Diffs with the thought that I was going to refresh my current diff but now they can be used for the Subi unit. Speaking of which, the diff has now arrived from the dismantler and is in Tyler's hands. He has gone the extra mile to pull the cover and take plenty of pics to confirm that it's indeed a 3.9 CLSD. ❤️ It'll be shipped out from Japan after New Years so hopefully in my hands in a few weeks!
    1 point
  31. @Derek thanks! I’ll look into Magnacore now! PS: big fab of your AL casting work.
    1 point
  32. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID 3. MAG58 - PAID 4. Crespo79 - PAID 5. Jeffrox 6. jhm - PAID 7. onthego- - PAID 8. onthego- - PAID 9. pepper - PAID 10. pepper - PAID 11. ModernS30 - PAID 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 15. Sonethirty - PAID 16. S30TRBO - PAID 17. S30TRBO - PAID 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID 22. Oki570Z - PAID 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID 27. jnjdragracing - PAID 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID 31. JonRHD - PAID 32. 75280z - PAID 33. 75280z - PAID 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance 37. LanceVance 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 42. 1 tuff z - PAID 43. 1 tuff z - PAID 44. Zlost - PAID 45. AydinZ71 - PAID 46. AydinZ71 - PAID 47. zredbaron 48. zredbaron 49. zredbaron 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID 53. evildky - PAID 54. torqen2k1 - PAID 55. torqen2k1 - PAID 56. torqen2k1 - PAID 57. torqen2k1 - PAID 58. torqen2k1 - PAID 59. torqen2k1 - PAID 60. Mayolives - PAID 61. Mayolives - PAID 62. Mayolives - PAID 63. bkz72 - PAID 64. Wizzurp - PAID 65. Wizzurp - PAID 66. Leon - PAID 67. Gollum - PAID 68. Gollum - PAID 69. Gollum - PAID 70. AB240z - PAID 71. AB240z - PAID 72. AB240z - PAID 73. AB240z - PAID 74. AB240z - PAID 75. AB240z - PAID 76. AB240z - PAID 77. AB240z - PAID 78. AB240z - PAID 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz
    1 point
  33. I used the Felpro gasket on my L28et for 20 years. If it wasn’t ideal, I couldn’t tell the difference.
    1 point
  34. Updated list and payment instructions sent to everyone 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID 3. MAG58 - PAID 4. Crespo79 - PAID 5. Jeffrox 6. jhm - PAID 7. onthego- - PAID 8. onthego- - PAID 9. pepper - PAID 10. pepper - PAID 11. ModernS30 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 15. Sonethirty 16. S30TRBO - PAID 17. S30TRBO - PAID 18. Kennysgreen280zt 19. Kennysgreen280zt 20. Kennysgreen280zt 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID 22. Oki570Z - PAID 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID 27. jnjdragracing - PAID 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID 31. JonRHD - PAID 32. 75280z 33. 75280z 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance 37. LanceVance 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 42. 1 tuff z - PAID 43. 1 tuff z - PAID 44. Zlost - PAID 45. AydinZ71 - PAID 46. AydinZ71 - PAID 47. zredbaron 48. zredbaron 49. zredbaron 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) 52. Chris Damato (FB) 53. evildky 54. torqen2k1 - PAID 55. torqen2k1 - PAID 56. torqen2k1 - PAID 57. torqen2k1 - PAID 58. torqen2k1 - PAID 59. torqen2k1 - PAID 60. Mayolives 61. Mayolives 62. Mayolives 63. bkz72 64. Wizzurp 65. Wizzurp 66. Leon 67. Gollum 68. Gollum 69. Gollum 70. AB240z 71. AB240z 72. AB240z 73. AB240z 74. AB240z 75. AB240z 76. AB240z 77. AB240z 78. AB240z
    1 point
  35. The Cometic gasket that was designed by a member here (Jeff Priddy) is the current favorite. It has individually bossed holes for every possible port on every head/block, allowing you to add even more cooling pathways if you want. Godzilla and Milkfab both carry it.
    1 point
  36. LOL car is quite different now. Id1050x's, haltech, flex, and some other goodies. Made just a hair under 400whp, still kicking!
    1 point
  37. Done. This forum has been around a long time and has a lot of valuable information. Don't want to see it go anywhere.
    1 point
  38. Been rocking these seats for years on my Z . It makes riding in my Z so much better for this old mans body . Nice work!
    1 point
  39. Had a few hours today, so I filled the pie cuts & added reinforcing washers on the PS rails. Cut the 2 DS rails & started welding them also - looked back to check that the DS was the same setup welded a bead on the backside where I had bent the plate tools for cleanup Added a rib across the top side of the bend also
    1 point
  40. The Airtex E8312 is a common aftermarket pump for the stock EFI system. It will put out 90 psi (unnecessary, too much) and about 30 gph (also more than needed). Don't get carried away on a bigger popular pump like the Walbro 255. 255 lph is 67 gph. Way too much flow and the pump will make a lot of noise trying to push through the small L28 fuel lines. There are several online calculators out there. https://www.google.com/search?q=horepower+fuel+pump+calculator You haven't described what you plan to do with the car. The race guys often use a swirl pot or surge tank.
    1 point
  41. That was a good read. Thanks for the link. That makes sense to me. A small separation bubble means you're stressing things to the max. You see the same thing on the top side of a wing just before stall. Max performance, but you're right on the ragged edge. You stall as soon as the bubble starts expanding, like his pictures show. To me, a device being "separated" means it's completely blown up. I did a poor job of communicating that I think.
    1 point
  42. I belong to Classicbroncos.com and to be able to post pictures, you have to pay a small fee. It's not a lot, maybe 5 or 10$ a year. Food for thought. I will donate now.
    1 point
  43. I've been placing a vortec 4200 EMS on an L28 and was pleasantly surprised how easily the coils mount and thought I'd share. I'm using the 08+ Chevy trailblazer coils, which are the stronger ones, with the same internals as the LS coils of the year. I'm using an 1/8" aluminum bar with some holes drilled in it to hold the coils. I'm using the stock m5 bolts that came with the coils and some m5 nylon insert nuts on the back to hold them. I cut a couple little tabs out of the aluminum to bolt to the assembly to the valve cover. I got the entire EMS for $250, but these coils are about $55 new at the parts store.
    1 point
  44. Alright printer was backed up finishing other projects but finally had time to print a full prototype for the lower cover, fitment is looking good, just need to make one more slight tweak and finalize the best way to print such a large piece. Somewhat off topic but here is some of the other stuff I have been designing and printing: Replacement fender grommets for headlight wiring, same style as OE. Replicated all of the plastic pieces on the Fender mirror reproductions I had, and designed some TPU gaskets to hold new mirrors in place. The housings are powder coated black chrome.
    1 point
  45. Almost ready for the drive back to Utah tomorrow. Car has been running quite well since swapping the ignition coil. I'm currently in "square" GM truck coils, and next year plan on fully swapping all of them out for reliability so I'm not having the issues I had this summer. Christmas visit I think will finally be time to run the AC lines. Over 1000 miles on it just since Thursday, and probably another 1000 between short rides here and the drive back to Utah before I head off to Mexico again. Got to do some nice rides out here on the islands as well as up to Vancouver. Despite the repeated frustrations, and various rattles and small noises I'm not expecting becoming extra obvious with so many miles in it, it really is a joy to drive and I'm happy with how insanely different this thing is from even a few years ago. I was telling my brother in law that it's weird looking back at old folders of pictures I had of other cars for motivation because my car is better than most of them in most ways now haha
    1 point
  46. Reapairing Right Side Dashboard Ac Vent Hose- The Right AC Vent 2"Hose was broken off from the Duct Vent. So a method to reconnect that hose would have to be found. I diecided to use a 3' piece of 2" radiator to"splint' the Vent Hose to the plastic Vent Housing. Used the Hot Glue Gun to adhere the Spint to the Vent Housing. Inside View of the Splint The Finished Repair if the AC Vent Hose and Duct I had to fabricate a Micro Phillips Screwdriver to remove the Three Phillips Heas Screws to Chrome Duct Vent. This Micro Phillips Screwdriver also was used in other 'tight spaces" where normal phillips screwdrivers would not fit. Modifying the Dashboard Center Vent- The Original Center Console Vent only had a small piece of foam around the vent tube leading to the Blower Box. I decided to construct a sheet metal Tube that provide a tighter seal to Outlet Vent. Making Template for the Vent Connector Bending the sheet metal with a 5/8" deep socket to match the template shape. Finished AC Vent Connector Next-Heater Blower Fan Replacement
    1 point
  47. I searched for the weight on any L-series head to give a shipping estimate but couldn't find it. Thought I would include it here for future searchable reference. ROUGH measurements on an E88 head removed from a 240z. No cam cover, no studs. Weight: 53 lbs Dimensions: 30" x 12" x 10" Keywords: E31, E88, N42, N47, P90, P90A, P97, head, cylinder head, dimensions, dims, weight, heavy, pounds, lbs.
    1 point
  48. You have to realize that 99% of cars like Ferrari, Lambo, etc. will never be pushed to their limits, especially when it comes to braking! Also, the 458 Italia has carbon-ceramic rotors, so the stress crack issue may not be an issue, but they also cost nearly 10 times as much. Interestingly enough, the Ferrari 430 Challenge (race) car runs rotors with just slots and no holes. I'd bet that only the small holes they run on carbon brakes will work, as I don't see slots carved into that material as a good idea. The purpose of slots or holes is to allow gases that build up between the pad & rotor to escape. That being said, a solid rotor with slots does that job and won't stress crack. Of course, they don't look as cool, but when researching what kind of brakes to put on my V8 Z, I talked to the guys at StopTech, Wilwood, etc and got the same opinion. Since my car will see track activity, they recommended the GT slotted rotors with directional vanes. (as seen below) Almost every race car that I've seen with holes has stress cracks radiating from them and is a situation for a possible failure under extreme conditions.
    1 point
  49. I watched this "Ultimate Factories" show about a month ago and they were at the BMW engine factory. They were talking about how cool the aluminum block was for their I6 motor, and how hard it was to cast. A good 15-20 minutes of the show was about the block. I was surprised when they said that the block ended up weighing 90 lbs. An LS1 block weighs 92. I don't know how accurate the weight they quoted on the show was, but I know the 92 lbs for the LS is accurate. The Chevy I6 was discussed briefly a couple years ago. I think the issue was that it was too tall. Here's the thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87482 I'm not sure if they ever pinned down the height issue or not. I still remember that Baja truck. Thing sounded insane, like an old F1 car or something.
    1 point
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