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  1. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  2. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  3. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  4. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  5. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  6. 1 point
    Concur 100%. In my experience across several states, Zs only have a chance at truly being competitive in FP. Other classes will have cars that we can't keep up with, if they show up. It's never fun to be the only car in your class and "win." Like all forms of racing, one must maximize class allowances to allow the driver a chance to compete. The S30 just isn't a platform for competition against a modern car. It is however that platform that connects driver to the road most directly. Our Zs are among the most exciting cars to autocross in terms of adrenaline for this reason. Racers with faster times get out of my Z hooting and hollering. I'm with Jon. I target competing against a few cars or drivers. I prefer to have a passenger than drive alone. Why hog the adrenaline? Get in! I pursue excitement. I feel like I win, because I'm driving my dream car since I was 17. And that's my best victory, really. FWIW.
  7. 1 point
    As of about 15 minutes ago, I've ordered all of the parts I need including an r200 to install into my car! They should all arrive sometime during next week. This weekend I'm going to drop my diff out of my car and take it apart to see how much damage I've done. I'll be attempting to sell anything that is usable. After I take my diff out, I'm also going to replace the u-joints on my drive shaft, and inspect my Trans and Torque Converter for potential issues, since I'll have relatively easy access to them! I'll try to take pictures as I go.
  8. 1 point
    Socorob: If you lowered the car with springs or Coil overs. Did you shorten the strut tubes? If not you are probably running out of suspension travel and hitting the bump stops. Common problem. Then you have to put Box Car springs in the thing to keep it off the bump stops. Not ideal.
  9. 1 point
    Just wanted to share my Z now that it's finally back from the body shop! Meant to say 4 months for most of my front end instead of 6. Just camera shy and stuttered. Didn't realize it till editing ahaha. The car will be weighed very soon and we estimate about 200-225lbs removed including the stripping of the interior. What else are you guys doing to your Z's to shed weight? This car has more carbon than Rocky Autos Z that was featured on Speedhunters some years back. And I haven't even ordered my dash yet!
  10. 1 point
    ^ Jim here was able to help me out, thanks all!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    jhm, Thank you for taking the time to reply, I will see id if they can help out.
  13. 1 point
    His car is a series one, and yours is a non-US '78 260Z, so you should expect a bit more weight, all else equal. I read a post from John C once saying that an early 280Z chassis was 100lbs heavier than a late 240Z, and a late 280Z was 300lbs heavier than an early 240Z. Seems like a big difference for just a chassis (I believe that was the context) but that's the only info I've ever found. I have a '76 chassis and an early 71 chassis, and I'm hoping I can weigh the two while stripped down and compare. I don't know how the non US late models compare to the US models.
  14. 1 point
    If he doesn't get back to you, you may want to look into this https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-6spd-transmission-adapter-03-06-vq35de
  15. 1 point
    Hello everyone, I've been a Nissan fanboy since I picked up my first 09 Nismo 370Z. I've been racing that ever since and eagerly eyeing an S30. I am a NASA National Instructor and compete in a wide variety of events in a wide variety of cars. I've earned trophies with NASA, SCCA, Chumpcar, completed the One Lap of America, and more. I'm sure you care much more about my Datsuns. Picked this up for a steal to give it a good home: my garage. It is a 1977 280Z with the L28ET from an 83 ZX. All done by the previous, previous owner. Originally from the west coast, it has very little rust after 3 years around Washington D.C.
  16. 1 point
    Now you just need a Braille battery with a custom Skillard battery box.🙄
  17. 1 point
    Hey, that's me! Message sent. Thanks for looking out everyone.
  18. 1 point
    ^I think that would be kind of nice, along with yellow octopus's note. If someone was curious they could find the build list with links to specific threads, whether that is original content or a thread that helped shape their decision. Any feedback from Dan? I know he is a busy guy, but is this helpful? I know comments can even with the best of intensions be unwanted at some point. I think all of us here want this forum to survive, it would be nice if maybe our efforts could be directed towards specific problems.
  19. 1 point
    Not mine but you can try this ad: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/d/240z-260z-280z-whaletail-wing/6452838157.html
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    ...Or "skimp" Scrimps are delicious, though.
  23. 1 point
    Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.
  24. 1 point
    I've figured it out, that I've never figured it out! At at least once a month I scratch my head and go WTH is that about. Best part ever is having adult children now. They look at her and go what's wrong with her! Makes me feel normal all these years I've scratched my hair out in utter confusion.
  25. 1 point
    I don't post here often, but as owner of FutoFab I thought I would chime in about the FutoFab STi conversion stub axles. FutoFab purchased the WCR stock after Todd Walrich passed. Part of this stock included the Beta Motorsports / John Williams designed stub axles. We also heard about breakage issues on those axles and decided if we were to carry on with STi stub axles, they would be made by a driveline shop from axle forgings, not machined from billet stock. We felt using an axle forging for our stub axles would improve the quality in 2 key areas. 1) The flange being forged onto the shaft allows the grain of the steel to "flow" into the flange rather than be cut as it would be when machined from a billet. 2) The heat treating on our forgings is done to the shaft only. Heat treatment penetrates roughly .20" to .25" into the surface of the metal. The treatment depth leaves the core of the shaft untreated, making it more flexible. While heat treating adds strength, it also makes steel more brittle. Because heat treatment will fully penetrate the thinner flanges, we prefer to use forgings with untreated flanges. Since we have changed to using forged shafts, we have not had a failure reported to us. Dave Patten, Owner
  26. 1 point
    Don't know if this will help you but I tossed the stock sliders, cut of the tabs on the 350z seats and welded on threaded studs to the 350z sliders, easy install.
  27. 1 point
    The bottom hose Dayco #C7039 The top hose is made up of two hoses Dayco #D72039 is connected to the engine. Dayco D70704 is connected to the radiator. Bought hoses at Autozone.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    First off welcome to the forums. 2nd, we don't really use the word best here, in fact it is a forum rule/guideline take a minute and peruse it, you will find a more intelligent discussion if you can phrase the question more precisely. One could make a numerical argument for something over the other, but best is a matter of opinion and is highly subject on purpose, use, budget, place in life, location, etc etc etc. There really is no best, semantically there can not be a best of two options, one can only be better then the other, once again still highly subject. They are very different engines that deliver power differently, it will be up to you to decide what you want. An LS3 could probably be pushed to 400 or so HP NA I imagine. Linear torque curve and all. The 2jzgte can hit 400 on the stock twins which are a sequential setup, a 2jzge NA-T could hit 400hp with a small single turbo. An LS3 swap may be easier to start, as the 2jz option only has one really good option for an off the shelf kit, which will set you back quite a bit more compared to an LS swap kit. The 2jz can be easier to add hp depending on your turbo selection and injector size it would be a matter of turning up the boost. Where as on the LS you might have to start considering forced induction if the power bug hit you. Does it have to be manual? The 2jz manual options can be pricey. The V160/161 occupying over half of your budget with a good clutch. The CD009 while being much cheaper is still quite a bit in the conversion/adapting hardware. The R154 while also substantially cheaper with upgrades and a twin disc is still a good amount of your budget. The W58 can be a very cheap option, but also is known for not holding too much torque and power, not really a long term option. Easiest I imagine would be going from chevy to chevy. Someone else might be able to chime in regarding the mounts and stuff between a 350 and an LS. Any reason you don't want to push the 350 to 400hp? That seems like a lot of money to save a bit of weight with the LS if that was the route to go. I imagine new heads, different intake, maybe even a supercharger or blower would put you in that range with very minimal work.
  30. 1 point
    There's nothing wrong with this S30. It's got damn every part that we all like to put on our cars that is currently offered by vendors out there right now. ...But there's nothing overly special about it either, other than it's well done. We have members on this forum that have more unique and interesting cars that were made on a much smaller budget in a 2 car garage than this thing.
  31. 1 point
    One more thing to say. Did you ever drive a Turbo Z? Im saying this because the "Funfactor" depends on where you drive. I have a 274 BHP N/A Z and a 450 AWHP BMW. on twisted roads the N/A Z is so much more fun to drive then the Turbo BMW. on a light signal start or highway its the Turbo. Drive both types if you can and see what suits you best. (Gear change point at 7500 N/A with the sound of tripples is one of the best things I ever had -->The smile is much bigger with the Z...).
  32. 1 point
    Seems I'll be picking up the car in a week or two after I clear the trailer.. he accepted the offer of 5k.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks man. I'm just going to deal with the gap and check it everytime I have my car jacked up. I have a bigger problem though. The new bolt holes don't line up with my diff flange. The new DS bolt pattern has slightly more space between the bolt holes then my old one, so I can get 2 bolts in on the same side but I can't get the other 2 bolts in, because the DS holes and diff holes don't line up. So we called the place I bought the driveshaft and they're claiming that it doesn't make sense, and that for a '75 280Z coupe the driveshaft should fit. Also the bolt holes themselves are larger than on the old DS. I can wiggle the bolts around if I slide them in. I don't see why datsun would change the distance between the holes for no reason. Maybe a Z expert can chime in on that. So now I need to find out what year diff I have I guess? Did certain years of S30 differentials have different bolt patterns on the flange? It's possible my diff and driveshaft were switched out at some point in it's life, but I don't know what year it was switched with. Also the new driveshaft is half an inch shorter than my old one, but it doesn't make much of a difference. I'll go take measurements of my old DS bolt pattern to help find out what kind of diff this is. Then I'll edit them in this post. Edit: I measured the distance between the bolts diagnolly from the center of the holes and got 2.75". I also found this pic of differential flanges, mine is exactly like the left one. While I was doing this my dad got a call from the driveshaft shop and they said they found a flange with the same pattern as mine, and are going to custom make me one today to fit my diff flange. So hopefully everything works out and we don't have to do this a second time. Edit2: I just found out that I might have an R200 diff. I found comparison pictures between an R180 and an R200 and the cover on mine looks just like the R200. So that explains why the driveshaft shop had such trouble. Also, I don't think it's an LSD. With the car jacked up if I spin one wheel the other wheel turns the opposite way. Edit3: I'm only updating this still because I think this info will help people that might get in a similar situation. A lot of this seems obvious by now. I found out that from 70-78 S30s all use that differential flange on the left. Except '75 S30s, they use the middle flange. When I ordered my new driveshaft I told them my car was a 1975 280Z manual coupe, and that was that. Never occured to me that my diff might've been swapped. So they shipped me a driveshaft meant for that 75 Z flange. Since my car has an R200 from some other Z/ZX it didn't fit, and here we are now. I'll get my new driveshaft with the proper bolt pattern soon and then everything will be fine. Here's where I found the pic and the info on S30 diff flanges. http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html
  34. 1 point
    Do yourself a favor and call up Softopz on hybridz.. He build harnesses and does a great job. Reliability = a nice new fresh harness..Trust me!!!
  35. 1 point
    getting there, engine is back in, ride height ist still too high but i guess it will settle down.
  36. 1 point
    I sent off my revised design to the CNC shop this last week, hope to have new parts on hand end of next week. From there I have a sheetmetal shop waiting to a final measurement on the front mount. Then its off to make a larger batch of them. I'm not doing axles hubs etc. Theres many options and different price points depending on your needs. One guy on the v8 FB group reused the ford axels "Stock explorer axles cut down and resplined to fit 300zx TechnoTuning outer stubs" Which might be the cheapest option, I purchased the driveshaftshop's explorer to 930 cv adapters...
  37. 1 point
    That is why I have both.....
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Also, my son and daughter work for a shop that does these shirts/hoodies/hats/etc. My son has done design work and has his own little side business selling logo products. Might be able to get a deal on them there if that helps to increase the donation potential or drop the purchase pricing while holding the donations the same maybe picking up more volume. Food for thought. I think long term, having a constant "store" for the shirts and other paraphernalia along with everyone doing consistent "membership" donations might be better than SuperDan getting frustrated at lack of support and the burst to make it up. I have been super busy with building a new house/shop and totally missed all the potential shut down. Read up last night and was really impressed by all the rallying support. I have personally just donated the recommended amount every year. from shortly after I got back into my 240Z project and found this site. I don't financially support many of these forums but this site is really a great place to be with great people and information so I felt it was important to support. Let me know if I can help out. Dave
  40. 1 point
    For a race car I go up to 8*, problem with the S30 is getting clearance for that figure. That's a bit much for a road car though, likely to wear the tyre tread inside.
  41. 1 point
    Yup, it was the brake booster. Replaced it and everything is good now! Thanks guys!
  42. 1 point
    The printer said they were scheduled to run last Friday and then they have to ship the order to me. Hope that I'll get them by the middle of next week so I can pack and ship on the 18th. Give it a week to get to you guys and I'm thinking everyone should receive their stuff by the 25th.
  43. 1 point
    Yeah, regarding the boxer swap, until someone actually gets it done and running, I'm not counting it. The purple V8 car you're talking about is the same one I was referring to, BTW. It belongs to a guy named Kevin Mackrell. I managed to find the other one I was talking about. The track width and wheel base make it look really wonky. http://jdm-culture.com/adree-hamid-r32-in-disguised-s30-240z/ Also, while looking, I managed to find mention of a third AWD Z, posted on this very forum. This one actually looks really impressive. Fourth post, by OlderThanMe.
  44. 1 point
    After talking with MSA they mentioned that one other way to differentiate between front and rear is the front spring should have about 10.5 coils and the rear should have about 12.5. If you look at the pictures the shorter spring has more coils (12.5). I think this is why some people give wrong information e.g. saying the rear spring should be the longer one when they probably mean the rear spring should be the one with more coils. Correct me if I'm wrong. In summary I think the following is what I've decided: Front spring: Par tnumber: 6305.001 Relative height/length: longer than the rear spring Number of coils: 10.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. Rear spring: Part nubmer: 6305.202 Relative height/length: shorter than the front spring Number of coils: 12.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. I still don't know why my front springs have an ever so slight outward bow to them. I installed the second one last night and it's not quite as bowed but still is a little.
  45. 1 point
    That rotisserie and frame reach is ingenious! They definitely thought that design thru thuroughly with all the different ways to elevate, level and rotate the frame and chassis.
  46. 1 point
    Why wouldn't two of the stock gasket work in this situation? One on the front side of the plate, one on the back.
  47. 1 point
    $3600 for the Pandem (RB) kit from Greddy, so all said and done they are probably comparable in price, shipped and everything. I quite like the Speedforme kit as it's not *too* over the top, the car is still very much a S30, just with some flair and modern touches. Anyone that buys one will certainly win points for uniqueness too, since I doubt anyone in North America is running one, whereas I have seen a few Pandem and Moonbeam kits already. I never liked the rear valance on the Speedforme kit though - it doesn't seem to match the subtleness of the rest of it - so I did a quick photoshop altering it to make it cleaner. Less holes and less busy looking.
  48. 1 point
    There are two wires that power the coil - one for Start and one for Run. Sounds like only your Start wire is connected. Or you haven't addressed the fuel pump relay contact switch in the AFM. Usually the engine will run for a few seconds before dying if it's the fuel pump contact.
  49. 1 point
    Just a footnote: two additional door bars are being added as well as a jacking point. We agree about the diagonal bar, however this design has been used on many cages that have all passed tech. The cage was actually built by a former Nissan Off-Road team fabricator.
  50. 1 point
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