Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    25.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Cannonball89

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/03/1989

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

3192 profile views
  1. Cannonball89

    Oil Filter Pressure Relief Valve Plugged?

    Thanks for the responses guys. I am using K&N HP3001 oil filters which according to their website have a bypass valve.
  2. So the last time I changed my oil in my L28ET (F54 block) I managed to mess up the threads on the oil filter bung. I called Motorsport Auto to order a new one, and the gentleman I talked to recommended I also get a new pressure relief valve. It was only $6 so I did, even though I didn't recall their being one on my engine, and I had actually never heard of this part before. Now when I was changing my oil this afternoon, I was going to install the new pressure relief valve, and discovered that my block actually has what appears to be a metal plug installed where the valve should be. I checked my old L24 block, and it has the valve, not a plug. I have been driving the car with this engine for some time and never had any issues related to oil pressure. My question I guess is, is this something that a previous owner did out of negligence/laziness or is the valve not really needed? I have searched and haven't really found much info on the topic one way or the other. I am hoping it is not a big deal as the only way I can see me getting that plug out would be to drop the oil pan and somehow try to push it out, or drill and tap it from the outside. Both options sound painful right now. I went ahead and reinstalled the oil filter for now, as this has not given me any issues so far. I just want to know if I should add fixing this to my to-do list or if it is not worth bothering over. I attached a picture of my plug below, and here is a link to the part that should be there: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/17-8041 Let me know your thoughts.
  3. Cannonball89

    Update After a Long Time Away

    Hi Guys and Girls, Just looked at my post history and it looks like 2013 was the last time I have given you all any updates on the 240z Turbo. The truth is, not a whole lot happened until this summer. 2013 was my senior year in college, and immediately after that I moved to Florida for about a year and half, the 240z had to stay in Maryland though. I came back to Maryland in 2015, and drove my car some, but was bugged by what seemed to be fuel delivery issues. I have been busy with my recently found career as well as other projects and had to leave the Datsun on the back burner for a while, but I have done a few things that I will provide a brief description of here, and maybe a full thread on a couple topics if I feel it would benefit anyone to know the details of. I've really just had the back end on jack stands for most of the summer. I had bought the stub-axle kit to adapt to the STI R180 and sourced a 2007 STI R180 way back in 2012 or 2013 and just now got around to installing. While I was at it, I had a custom driveshaft made that connects the 280ZX Turbo T5 tranny to the STI R180, with 1310 U-Joints, as I had blown the stock size U-Joints at the drag strip many years ago. I already had a custom shaft made for the stock U-Joint size when I first did my Turbo swap, this one was a bit of a challenge sourcing parts that would work with 1310 but I will probably write a post soon detailing what I used. I also had a sump installed on the bottom of my gas tank, and sealed the tank with POR-15, in an attempt to put a rest to my fuel delivery woes. Originally I had been using the stock 5/8" pick-up tube in the tank to feed a low pressure pump that then fed a surge tank, which then fed a high pressure pump for the fuel injection, and it worked great at first, no issues. For some reason, recently it did not seem to be delivering the fuel the engine needed, so with the sump installed, and two 3/8" gravity fed outlets feeding the fuel pump, rather then the pump trying to suck the fuel up out of the tank through a 5/8" straw, I won't have any more issues of that nature. I got this all wrapped in the end of July, but of course I then discovered that one of my rear brake calipers was seized. I am using 1983 280ZX rear brake calipers, and when I first did the install I could drive to Advance Auto or Auto Zone and walk out with them. Now, they are almost impossible to find. Major auto parts stores don't stock them, Summit Racing shipped me what they said was the proper part, but it had a smaller piston diameter and a totally different parking brake arrangement. Motorsport Auto was finally able to get rebuilt calipers to me, but I had to wait several weeks and the quality was not nearly as good as I expected (had to clean media from bead blasting out of the bleeder valve port, as it was totally blocked). I should have just got a rebuild kit but didn't feel like fooling with it and didn't anticipate it being such a hassle to obtain parts that used to be readily available. So now, I think I am finally able to try driving it a bit for the next month or two of decent weather remaining here in Maryland. Hopefully all will be well, but I know that leaving a car sit for extended periods often brings about issues. My plan, if everything is mechanically sound, is to have some professional dyno tuning over the winter. I am running Megasquirt still, and have really only street tuned it. The one Dyno session I had didn't really amount to anything because I had the spark duration and dwell set in such a way as that it would not rev over 5000 RPM. I really need to find a shop not too far away that is good with Megasquirt and/or older Nissan/Datsuns. I am thinking P Tuning in Manassas Virginia may be a good fit. I will call and talk with them first though. So hopefully I can stay active on here for a while. I have honestly forgotten a lot of the finer details of things that I used to know off-hand. Sort of learning all over again. I'll try to stay in touch.
  4. Ok, according to MSD's website, the specs for the Blaster 2, model 8200 are: Primary Resistance: 0.7 OHMs Secondary Resistance: 4.5K OHMs According to my multimeter, my coil registers at: Primary Resistance: 1.3 OHMs Secondary Resistance: 4.8K OHMs So, I think it is pretty safe to say that we have found a winner? Primary winding resistance being almost double what it should be is most likely responsible for a weak spark that makes the car fall on its face I would say, correct? Thanks all you guys, sometimes it just takes more than one brain to think through all the possibilities.
  5. Thanks for the suggestions ill check that stuff out my next day off which will probably be wednesday.
  6. I am using an MSD Blaster 2 coil and I am using a stock 280ZX Turbo dizzy and CAS. So basically it just has six notches that the computer counts. I am not running sequential injection, just alternating bank fire so that set up is adequate. I don't think that any noise is getting into the signal, the trigger log looked pretty solid when I checked it. And it doesn't seem to correspond to any specific cells in my maps, it just seems to be whenever the engine is under load. I haven't noticed any loose vacuum lines either. If the distributor drive gear had somehow jumped out of place, my timing should be out of whack when I check it with a timing light, correct? I am also wondering if it is possible that the Timing Chain may have somehow jumped a tooth, but that seems unlikely too.
  7. Cannonball89

    The Turbo Swap Project

  8. Cannonball89

    Turbo 240z

  9. Hi guys, it's been a while since I've been on here. I have been busy with work and school, but I have been enjoying my turbo swap 240z for the past several years with Megasquirt with no issues whatsoever until recently. I know this thread could probably go under the Troubleshooting forum, but I since my car is running MS3 I thought it fit better here. My problem started about a month ago. I was driving it with my buddy on a hot day and it was running great, then I stopped to drop him off and turned the engine off. When I restarted it about 2 minutes later, I noticed as soon as I pulled out that it was hesitating, and if I pushed the throttle down a little further it would violently buck and pop out of the intake. Once I managed to get it up to speed, it would cruise OK, but the exhaust note sounded a little funny. However going up hills or accelerating it would continue to buck and backfire. I managed to get it home and hoped that it was some heat related issue, and that if I let her cool down over night it would be fine the next day, but that turned out to not be the case. I know that this issue is most likely related to either a lean condition or a spark issue, and I have troubleshooted and attempted to diagnose it with no success so far, I am really hoping to come up with that "Ah Ha!" moment, but it just isn't happening so I thought I'd ask you guys. The strange thing is that my datalogs, which I will attach do not show AFRs going lean when it begins to hesitate and backfire, which makes me lean towards it being a spark issue or perhaps an issue isolated to one cylinder. On a side note, I installed an EBC about two weeks before this started happening, but I can't imagine that the EBC is causing this issue since I am not even under boost when the problem is occuring. I also put in the MSA Fuse box to replace the old melted stock one, but everything related to the engine and MS is on separate circuits with a dedicated fuse box. Here is a list of what I have tried so far: 1. Cleaned corrosion off of the inside of the cap and rotor. 2. Installed new NGK BR8ES plugs, properly gapped at .025 3. Checked impedance on spark plug wire, and checked for arcing. 4. Checked voltage at coil, fuel pumps, and at MS, and found a solid 13-14 volts at idle. 5. Checked compression at every cylinder, no abnormalities, a consistent 145 PSI in all 6. 6. Visually inspected valvetrain for damage, looked OK. 7. Verified that spark timing in MS agreed with what the timing light said. 8. Blew compressed air through all fuel lines. 9. Replaced both of my fuel filters. 10. Drained the tank and put fresh fuel in. 11. Visually inspected entire wiring harness for loose connections or worn off insulation. So far I haven't found any problems and it is getting frustrating. My next step probably will be to ship the MS back to DIY and have them check it out, and possible send my injectors off to be tested and possibly rebuilt. I may send the coil back to MSD to have that tested too. I am hoping some of you can offer some more suggestions. A datalog of me driving around my neighborhood is attached in a zip folder. The hesitation occurs basically whenever I am on the throttle. I can't find anything unusual, but hopefully one of you guys can. Thanks Datalog.zip
  10. I did some more messing with my AE today. I changed the MAP averaging lag factor from 50 to 90, then set my AE to 100% MAP based, and it still shoots lean for a split second then goes rich. I then changed TPS and RPM averaging lag factors from 50 to 90, and tried changing the AE to 100% TPS based, and then a blended AE, but no matter what I do the AFR will still shoot lean momentarily causing a slight hesitation. So I'm at a loss, my car is still drivable and runs great, but the AE hesitation is just a slight nuisance that I can't make go away. Me and 2s2mad are in the same boat, at a loss for AE ideas.
  11. Cannonball89

    l24 turbo

    I dont think anyone is "bashing" the L24. It simply isnt as good of a platform in stock configuration for a turbo. Its less displacement than an L28ET Its compression is too high for high boost/aggressive timing Its head doesnt flow quite as well as a P90 (from what ive read) But thats not bashing, thats just the facts. There is nothing wrong with a turbo L24, its just a less optimal platform which is why most people dont bother with it.
  12. Tuning accell enrich has been one of the most challenging things for me too. Ive gotten it pretty good by messing around with it for a long time, but its still not as crisp as it was blipping the throttle when carburetted. I am running a blended map/tps, but my tps signal is noisy as hell. I am also suspecting that my map sensor lag time is too high. It responds fine to rapiddly rising boost, but that instantaneous transistion from vacuum to positive pressure seems to cause a hiccup. Ive read a lot about accell enrich, but most of that is with older firmwares. Almost everyone ive talked to with a newer megasquirt version has some issues with hesitation when blipping the throttle. Im interested to see if anyone has a good solution too.
  13. Cannonball89

    Need help with my L28ET!

    Your warmup enrichment wont turn off unless the taper% cell for 160 degrees is set to zero. After you do that, open your VE table and scale all of your cells by whatever percent your 160 degree warmup cell was set to. The dropping out at high RPM could be a coil dwell issue. I had trouble with that. Make sure that max dwell is set to at least twice what your max spark duration setting is. This is assuming that you have a single coil. If not, then the dwell may be set with different parameters but may still be the problem. Also make sure your plugs are gapped tightly. .025 works for me. Your other problems just need to be tuned around, like the sputtering when starting. Look at what cells in the VE table your car goes to while cranking and afterstarting and experiment with them until it starts reliably. ASE and WUE should be tuned after you have done that. I cant see your datalog, it says its a bad link.
  14. Cannonball89

    Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals

    Just bought a nice gas tank If you have a Z in the area come on out, theres usually a lot of nice Zs out here. Say hi to me over by the Datsun show field.
  15. Cannonball89

    Subaru WXR Sti R180 Side Axles (Part Five)

    Ok, thanks for clearing that up. Apparently the tolerance issue is on nissans end, but shouldnt be a problem for me anyway.