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Fat Daddy

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About Fat Daddy

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/10/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
  • Interests
    75'280z L28 NA
    SDS system
    440 talon injectors
    Pallnet 11mm fuel rail
    Gm coil packs
    70's Monza Header
    phase 2:
    83' l28et and T5 borg Warner transmission

    Phase 3

    cd009, bigger turbo, 530ftlb clutch,

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  1. Fat Daddy

    Anyone running a VGT Turbo?

    So, I failed to add the one thread I found on here regarding the VGT system. The member who posted it says it blew his motor twice. I guess there is something to be said for simplicity. Just wanted to take this time to thank you all for your input.
  2. I have been reading threads regarding members turbo choices, and there are plenty. However, most of these threads are a decade old. It seems like there have been major advancements in turbo R&D since then. I've recently been recommended a GTX3067R which is advertised near my goal, but I'm told that the efficiency map doesn't support the claim. Interpreting the map is something I've not quite grasped. Considering a goal of 500hp max with the option to detune for daily driver efficiency. VGT systems seem to be a versatile option. Research links: https://www.carthrottle.com/post/amp/engineering-explained-6-different-types-of-turbocharger-and-the-advantages-of-each-setup/ https://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/match-turbocharger-engine-step-step-guide/ http://myholsetturbo.com/vgt.html Controller: https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/general-cummins/84_engine/89_air-exhaust/holset-he351-ve-vgt-standalone-turbo-arduino-controller-tuner-r159/
  3. Fat Daddy

    Turbo sizing, comparison, etc

    Have you guys any info/ feedback on the Garrett GTX3067R?
  4. Fat Daddy

    An alternator swap story

    My mistake, lower right. Turns out the battery in my voltage meter was dying and started climbing when testing whether the alternator was charging or not. Eventually it died, one problem solved. After tracing the two wires in the T plug on my alternator by testing for continuity (which I had never done before, and hadn't realized my meter even offered that function). After reviewing http://forums.hybrid...-upgrade-to-zx/ again it put things in perspective, by determining which needs keyed 12v and which requires constant 12v. I have a new appreciation for my meter and not relying on colour coding.
  5. Fat Daddy

    An alternator swap story

    Condenser shown in the lower left,any 75' owners run into this?
  6. Fat Daddy

    An alternator swap story

    Here's a pic of the original mod. Also, I forgot to mention that I've noticed some kind of condenser attached to the alternator on the 83' as shown in the pic, mine came without. There is one attached near the external regulator however. Just wondering if it's an issue?
  7. Fat Daddy

    An alternator swap story

    I have it wired exactly as you have it shown. I should have supplied that pic in my post, as it was my reference, unfortunately it's still not giving me 14.2V. Just wondered if I damaged it when I wired it wrong?
  8. Truth of the matter is, I installed an internally regulated alternator off of an 83' l28et onto my 75'280 with no idea I now had two voltage regulators in the system...until, I fired up the car and the amp meter went haywire. This led me to research the following links: http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm I matched the yellow and white/blue stripe as instructed as the voltage regulator harness matched the info provided, but after realizing the system wasn't charging, I searched further: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108455-75-280z-alternator-upgrade-to-zx/ http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html All three agree that the white/red and the white/black are joined. Two out of three state the yellow and white wire should in fact be joined. So I did. Still not producing 14.4 volts. To make matters worse, my digital meter was lying to me saying it was overcharging, until the battery died minutes later. After installing a new 9 volt, it actually showed 10.5v proving it wasn't charging at all. Even after giving some rpm still no change. Neither combination seem to yeild a positive result which leads me to believe that either I've damaged the internal regulator or it didn't work to begin with...I'm leaning towards the latter. Times are tough in Alberta right now, blew my budget on a pallnet fuel rail and arp head studs for the l28et. I'd like to use this alternator for the time being until i can afford a larger amp version. Can I solder the original voltage regulator back in the system, or any other low budget option would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Jason
  9. is still working on it ;)

  10. Fat Daddy

    Power and timing

    I`ve got a 75` 280z with 260cc turbo injectors, in a NA engine, while the turbo is getting a rebuild. I`ve been in contact with sds and they say that I have 32,33 degrees under RPM IGN so if I have another 18 ADV then total is 51 degrees. After reading a few posts, I get the feeling that I am past my optimum timing. I didn`t set the computer but, I was assured it wasn`t pinging. Now my tuner friend is no longer around, so I`d like to take matters into my own hands lol, but I`m not sure how to go about finding the best timing. I`ve also found an on line way to view the spread sheets through ``Google docs`` and Gmail. If anyone has a map to share, that might be a good way to send it. Any help would be greatly appreciated https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=t7fgjkeDfgbY0dbtvOY_NBgan That`s the link to my spread sheet. Let me know if anyone can read it
  11. Fat Daddy

    O2 Sensor options

    I"m having some fine tuning issues with my SDS system, getting a O2 sensor "error". In 5th gear 2750rpm, the O2 sensor was fluctuating from .14 to .56V as well as a few values in between. I've got a Monza header and welded the bung in the top collector. The sensor is a two wire, and was wondering if one with it's own heater might make a difference? I think the combination of the header and the cool Canadian winter isn't so good for an accurate reading? Or do I have bigger problems?
  12. Fat Daddy

    Work in Progress

  13. I'm a new member, and have been searching for info on diffs for days now. I've read a lot about ratios but haven't found any info on the stamp on the underside of the diff to determine what I already have. I have a 75' 280z with a real long feel to the gearing. The stamp on the under side of the diff is # 157 37X KN3. I also have a diff out of a 78 280Z with the #R22. I`m not sure of the history of either car lol! I should also mention I identified both my five speed transmissions as a close ratio since they have one ear instead of two. My is however to install a shorter rear end , since I`m running 2750 rpm at 75 miles an hour, and my first gear seems to be kinda gutless. Is the R22 shorter, and is there any benefit to sticking with the diff that`s in the car now?
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