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ComicArtist

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Everything posted by ComicArtist

  1. What're you guys running? Don't know if this should be here or in the V8 section, but I'll give it a shot. I'm running the 5.3L cast iron block, so it's considerably heavier than a regular LS1. It's a daily also, so I'm wanting something comfortable enough to enjoy driving a lot but not so soft that I get a ton of roll during spirited driving, if that makes sense. Think a 250/200 setup would be good enough to handle the additional weight from the motor?
  2. So it basically sends the signal to the ECU which maps how much fuel to spray? As opposed to the thermotime switch which opens the CSV?
  3. I have three sensors on my thermostat housing. One is the single wire sensor for the temp gauge, one is the thermotime switch for the cold start valve, which I don't have so it's useless. WHAT IS THE THIRD? I'd have to assume this is the bad one, it's a two wire plug and it's on the drivers side of the housing. When I unplug it the car dies immidiately and it won't start.
  4. I don't have the cold start valve any more, I'm running the TPS from a KA24 throttle body and have never had problems with it before, but it's funny you mention the coolant temp sensor unit. It came unplugged when I was driving the other day and flooded the car instantly, it took a minute to figure it out but ever since I plugged it back up it's been getting horrible mileage.
  5. I've exhausted all my ideas as to why my L28 is getting such shitty mileage. The only thing I haven't done is have the injectors flow checked to see if they're dumping too much fuel. It's basically a stock motor, with a Pallnet fuel rail, stock injectors, an Aeromotive A1000 fpr, idling fuel pressure is set to 28 and gets to about 33-34 under throttle. Besides basic mods like EGR delete, shaved N42 intake manifold, straight pipe exhaust, ect, the motor is all stock. As to how bad of mileage it's getting, it took $15 bucks to make 36 mile round trip last night, which comes out to about 7mpg. Any ideas? The car seems to run fine, it's not bogging from being rich or anything.
  6. Some dude took some cool pictures at CCM 15x10 all the way around, -38 and -25 205/50 Falkens Parts Shop Max competition coilovers Techno Toy Tuning camber plates Techno Toy Tuning rear LCA's
  7. Some dude took some cool pictures at CCM
  8. Need a pair of calipers for vented rotors. Cash in hand, willing to pay shipping. Working condition preferably, you can get them on RockAuto for about $70 per caliper, but I'd rather buy on here and support Z members. Thank you! Text at 918-348-2921. Need them ASAP
  9. I'm using the brackets from a Maxima/810 wagon, which utilizes the smaller brake calipers off the 79-81 zx. I'm talking about the two bolts that actually hold the caliper to the bracket. tamo3, thank you, that's the bolt size I was using but it just seemed to be not threading in right, I didn't want to tighten them down too much and risk stripping out the brackets because they're kind of hard to come by haha. Guess there's just paint in the threads or something
  10. Just finishing up my Maxima/280zx rear disk swap and I'm having trouble with the bolt holding the caliper to the bracket. Is it some special size or something? It feels like its cross threading but it appears to be right.
  11. I couldn't quite tell from the photos, but it looks to me as if there's enough metal left on the original strut tower to be able to reuse the original plates. Just very carefully cut through the welds to get the plate out without removing as much as possible of the strut tower and the camber plate. It looks like someone who really knows what they're doing could clean the area up and still salvage what's left of the job.
  12. Holy shit and I thought mine looked bad. I did this a over a year ago and it held up to daily driving on the streets, but I just cut all of them out and am having them professionally re-welded in. They should look like this:
  13. I'm not sure yet, since I don't have the LCA's on yet. With stock arms and camber plates, I was running -3 to -4 degrees. I plan on being close to that with the new setup. I'm a huge supporter of PBM as well, that's the main reason haha. I've used their products on my FC drift car and s13's, their coils are rebuildable, stiff, tough, they ride good and they go low. And they're gold Yes. To adjust height you actually rotate the entire coilover inside that welded on sleeve. Naturally, the length of the shock and the length of the sleeve are going to limit how low you can go, so I put a lot of research into these so that I can go as low as possible and still have full suspension travel and a wide range of adjustability. This style of coilover IMO is better than the typical conversion for S30's, since the height adjustment on sleeve-over setups actually affects the preload as well. To lower an s30 a lot with that type of coil, you're practically on the bumpstop constantly unless you go with an extremely short shock and sectioned sleeves, and even then you still don't have a whole lot of adjustability.
  14. I have the Techno Toy Tuning LCA's for alignment adjustment, and honestly I considered running rear camber plates too, but it's my daily and when I had the camber plates with my Integra setup I got a lot of road noise and exhaust through the camber plates. Trying to seal up the cab and make it as comfortable as possible haha
  15. I've talked to Dan at Parts Shop Max about building a weld on coilover setup for S30's, but there just isn't enough of a market for it to justify taking attention away from the angle stuff they're working on right now for drift cars to cater to the small s30 market. I don't doubt that sometime in the future they'll come out with a kit for around a grand, but for right now I just built my own kit. The sleeves ran me about $500 to have machined here in OKC, already had the spindles and Techno Toy Tuning camber plates. As far as all the other T3 parts, I've been sending them as many S30 spindles as I can find around here for cores and they've been sending me parts haha.
  16. As some of you guys probably know, I'm ditching the Integra coilover setup for something that I haven't seen done before; z32 coilovers. I'm using Parts Shop Max pro coils, fully adjustable with separate preload and height adjustment. Previously I was using Techno Toy Tuning camber plates on all four corners, I'm switching to an s13 style tophat in the rear and re-using the T3 camber plates up front. Other new suspension mods include all new poly bushings all the way around, Techno Toy Tuning rear LCA's, as well as Toyota S12 front calipers, rear disc conversion, and stainless steel braided lines. Had to have a machine shop build custom threaded sleeves to weld onto the spindle, just got the fronts back from being welded and they'll be off to the powdercoater in a few days. Mocked one of the fronts up just to see how everything is looking, and I'm pretty stoked on how it's turning out.
  17. Like the above comment, you're not really going to notice much of a difference by just swapping chassis. If I were in your shoes, I'd keep the 280 and stay with FI
  18. Just need one. Text me at 918-348-2921 Thank you
  19. I've always ran a straight pipe with no muffler, cat, resonator, ect. It's loud and awesome, and my car runs and always has run great. I would attribute your problem to something small that isn't exhaust related, timing, clogged injector, ect.
  20. I'd suggest Diamond Racing, you can get a 16" in any width and offset you want and they're just a little heavier than Rotas or XXR's. I got mine for $450 shipped
  21. Funny, the bearings were all in Timken boxes, the inners from autozone had skf stamps, the outers from eBay were nsk. My grease seals from Nissan should be in soon, and the spindles should be back from the welder soon too
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