stretchnuts

Yeah but with my current intake setup it would still be tough. On my wrx (2.0L) I had a fairly large front mount with a decent amount of 2.5" tubing and it the lag wasn't terrible, I have found that a really good tune and proper turbo sizing can make a world of difference. My main question is are there any interference issues with rotating the turbine housing and running underneath the oil pan. I have heard that the wastegate would have to be modified but not sure if thats true or not.

Is there any issues or pitfalls or just plain annoyances with routing the piping under the motor? I really like the cleanliness of the install and really declutters the TB "area". And I imagine the turbine housing will have to be rotated? (stock turbo for now) I have been wanting to re do my current setup and I was thinking 2.5" all around.

I thought tech2motorsports had some, not cheap though.

I have the usb to serial adapter reading properly in megatune, but is it true I cant use usb for tunerstudio lite? I am assuming I have to buy the full version?

Just got my 77 with 83zxt swap running again on ms1v3. Car will will start with a little throttle, but wont idle, even after warm up enrichments are done. Car revs just fine. Brake pedal was on the floor when I started so I pumped them up (need to be bled probably too), and while im pumping up the brakes the car idles fine. Sooo I immediately thought vacuum leak from brake booster. I pulled off the line and I had the wife start and keep the car running while I put my finger over the metal line thinking I could isolate it. Car still wanted to die at idle. I know it has to be vacuum leak but not sure from where.

I ran a wire directly to pin 36 on the MS to the - of the coil and after a cough and sputter, she runs! Lol. There's some sort of disconnect between the 77 harness, and the MS. D14 is solid d15 is solid until its warmed up, and d16 lights when the throttle is blipped as mentioned above. Car wont idle and runs super rich even though the wideband indicates between, 13-14.5. Rich, but not as rich as it smells lol. My next question is would the aforemention idle problem be related to old nasty gas? Car revs really well and smoothly so maybe not the case? Either way my cable will be here tomorrow to hook up to tunerstudio and see whats going on. Its been about 9 yrs since ive even glanced at tuner studio so there will be another slight learning curve...

Ok, the diagram for ms i think shows pin 37 for the coil. Either way would i be able to disconnect the wire from that pin and just run a brand new wire from that pin to the positive of the coil without hurting anything? And if i do that and it still doesnt fire how woukd i check to see if the coil is actually producing a spark signal? Edit : it is pin 36 for the coil and 37 for fuel pump

I am assuming the aftermarket coil has an internal igniter as I don't see an external one anywhere. Its an accel supper sport. Which wire should I be looking for coming from the MS to the coil, and should there be two wires to the positive terminal? I.e. a 12v signal wire from MS and a constant 12v from the car (fuel pump + is what the MS diagram states). PO said the coil tested good, and I threw in a zxt coil that is probably good and nothing still. Is there a way to test the coil itself while its hooked up and trying to start? The spark could be grounding out somewhere in between the coil and the plugs. D14 does flash rapidly when trying to start. As for the fuel pump and I think it was wired directly to the ignition and is not being controlled by megasquirt, however I dont think this should affect anything as I am definitely getting fuel in the cylinders. Smells great.

Not sure if this belongs in the Mega Squirt forum or not but I have a feeling it could be related. I recently acquired a 77 with an 83zxt motor ms1v3 and had run for years. Was parked for a while, nothing was done to it, and now it wont run. Getting fuel, injectors are definitely firing, but no spark. I am getting ~11.7v between the black/w wire at the positive of the coil and the blue wire at the negative with the IGN ON. It appears that the car uses a 77 harness (from looking at the FSM diagram) with the MS wired onto where the old ecm was. While cranking it drops a little due to the extra starter load. Pulled a plug, and no spark. I ordered a serial cable to get tunerstudio up and make sure I am getting a tach signal, however the red led blinks while the motor is turning over so this leads me to believe it is getting a good tach signal. When the key is on there are no lights on the module. Its been a while since I fiddle with MS and cant remember if that was normal or not. What could have happened in the time it sat to cause it to not run all of a sudden, honestly I am kinda at a wall. My next step is going to be to rip the harness out and redo it with the MS relay board. I am eventually going to do that anyway but would really like to get it running the way it was before drastically changing too much.

I have a very clean s130 for sale, but it sounds like your only looking for an s130. But I am pretty local.

+1^ How did you get an s130 chassis to 2200lbs? And how much do you charge per hour in labor, i.e. appx cost of any motor/custom work?

Believe so, easiest way to make sure your head is at TDC is to align the "-" notch on the thrust plate with the grove "u" on the backside (cam side) of the camshaft gear. At this point the int/exh lobes should be in that "V" position where they are both angled upwards, just like you have pictured. Looks to be pretty close. Thats how I timed mine when I got my head rebuilt. Hope this helps.

...duh , and the engine stand mounts will be perfect to brace the bar against. Thanks guys, hopefully I can track down this dern thing. I am going to try to remove the oil pan first though, however when I was turning it around I never heard it moving around in the oil pan, I suspect it got lodged in one of the timing chain guides.

Ok, so first best step here is to remove the oil pan? And dumb question, but can I reuse the new rubber gasket I just put on there?

Welp, I did it again f-ing knucklehead over here made more work for himself... Putting my rebuilt head on and ARP studs, i decided to drop one of the washers down the front timing cover... ^&%*^%*&^$##@@#$^%{:content:}amp;%^{:content:}amp;^%{:content:}amp;^%{:content:}amp;^%$ and many curse words later I got my magnet on a stick and tried to get it out, turn the motor upside down on the stand and shake it back and forth. Took the oil pump off and still couldnt find it. After two hours of trying I decided Im going to have to pull the front cover. Question is, how do I remove and install the crankshaft pulley nut with the motor on a stand? I could probably get it off with an impact, but how do I get it torqued back on? Need some good old guy tricks here. It would be easy if the motor was in the car...