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zgeezer last won the day on January 30 2014

zgeezer had the most liked content!

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About zgeezer

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 01/31/11

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Indio-Southern California
  • Interests
    Photography, cars....any/all vehicles, firearms, creating loud sounds using unstable compounds, conversation, spittin', kickin' tires, and swapping lies.

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  1. 1970 "D" Hubcaps TRADE

    Thanks everyone. I found a trading partner. z
  2. JTR radiator mount for chevrolet to 240Z

    Thanks for the response. I ordered the mounts off the JTR website and one week later PayPal refunded the money. Thanks for the offer; but, I'm not much of a fabricator. z
  3. JTR used to carry an elegant radiator mount for installing a Chevrolet radiator in a 240Z. I need the kit or just the top bracket. If you have one send me a pm with your price. g
  4. 280z 27 spline rear stub axles

    I think I have a set....somewhere. I'll look Monday. Do you have a 280Z OEM radiator overflow bottle and cap? z
  5. 1970 "D" Hubcaps TRADE

    I really "need" an OEM 280Z radiator overflow bottle. No interest in aftermarket or "it'll fit" swaps from other cars. I have two early "D" hubcaps [series I-- '70/'71] that are in reasonable shape, plastic "D" slightly faded, but pins are good and the chrome is good to about 3 feet. These hubcaps are NOT painted, are either chrome or stainless, and are not bent up. Straight across trade. You send me a usable bottle with cap (I don't need the mount) and pay for shipping. I'll pack these in two pizza boxes and send them to you. Photos available if you have the bottle. z
  6. This GM driveshaft was modified as part of an Chevrolet Gen II Lt1 engine and automatic transmission install into an early series one [1970] 240Z. The motor mounts were produced by JTR. This driveshaft measures 19.5 inches from center to center of the universal joint trunions. The transmission yoke is for an 700R4 AT. The rear GM universal joint contains an adaptor from a GM universal joint to a Nissan IRS R200 center section. The center "plug" measures 2.25 inches and will fit most R200 IRS center sections. It does not bolt up to a stock R180 IRS center section. This driveline was installed to check fit and then stored outside. The u-joints were greased when stored and have never seen torque. The front yoke, despite grease has surface rust and I would replace it. If you are building a GM/240Z engine conversion with JTR or your own custom mounts, this can save you some time and cash. This is sold AS IS. As every engine swap is different what fit well in one may not fit in the other. $50.00 and you pay shipping. PayPal only. Contact me by PM .
  7. Ok, I wish to replace the fusible link from the passenger side rail to the starter in an early 240z. I have the harness side intact. I do not have the link. The quick disconnect is a latchable plastic holder with one male blade on the body side and a matching female on the link to the starter. That blade is an unusual size. I believe it is something in the order of 10 or 10.mm. Does anyone know where I might find these connectors and latch "box"? I am not interested in purchasing a complete fusible link: only male/female/and plastic connector. With these connectors, I expect to wire a relay/breaker/fuse box without sacrificing the body loom. g G
  8. On/Off Switch for fuel pump.

    I had noticed that later 280z's have an oil pressure with two male blades configured in a T. Does anyone have drawing of the internals? If it is a simple ground contact, then that may be as simple as wiring the ground side of a relay directly into one of those terminals. It can't be that simple. I need something to kill the electric pump in event of an accident. G
  9. I've wired my 70z with an in-tank FI pump. I'm using the fuel pump wires Datsun built into the body harness. I'm looking for an easily mounted inertia safety switch. Ideally something small enough to be mounted on a front "frame" rail. Any recommendations or pictures of installations. g
  10. 240z dash wiring harness

    What year? '74's are quite different.
  11. Time to clean out the garage. 1. LS3 H2O pump with crankshaft pulley. Pulled off an ls3 crate motor. Never mounted or used. Crank pulley well greased for storage. This is the pump for a Lsx swap as the water intake is on the driver's side. Easy straight in hook up for most Z radiators. The Crank comes with the pump and allows Truck blocks to be changed over to LS1/Ls3 configuation. Sale as a unit, purchaser pays shipping. $150.00. 2. Mazda oil cooler. if you follow Japanese trends, you've seen this hung outside over the bumper and in front of the grille. This is all aluminum and will mount within 240z front rails. Close fit. This is equipped with a thermostat at 150 or 160 degrees. This would work well with GEN 3 or 4 engines as an engine cooler and would be a killer transmission cooler. $100.00 3. 5 Lug 300z hubs and 5 lug Brembo 11 3/8 inch rear rotors. The Brembos were part of Ross's rear disc brake assembly. I decided to stick with the 4 lug 240z hubs. I don't recall the year 300Z that these came off; but, they are clean and still greased. They were pulled, bagged, boxed, and stored until today. These hubs increase the front track somewhat. The change from 4 lugs to 5 lugs is well documented on this website. The Brembos have never been mounted. $200.00. I will not break up #1 or #3. Buyer to pay shipping. I accept PayPal or Bank Cashier's Checks. If you have an early 280Z gas tank in excellent shape complete with the gauge sensor and wish to talk trade , send me a PM. G
  12. 240z Wiring harness

    I had a similar issue on my '70. Bare shell, missing engine compartment wiring, hacked body harness, and a "clean" instrument harness with plastic terminals that turned to powder at a touch. My combination switch and the spare were badly corroded from water intrusion into the heavy duty black plastic tote that I used for storage. [summer heat and water in a semi sealed container destroyed all white plastic terminal ends and corroded the aluminum]. I purchased a complete 24 or 28 circuit wiring package from Ron Francis wires.. I decided not to do a complete custom re-wire; instead, I purchased a '72 engine harness and stuffed it and the other two harnesses into a box and shipped them all to Dave Irwin in Washington state. What I received back was a completely refurbished harness that could be installed in a day. The expense was less than I paid for the Ron Francis wires. Here are the pros and cons as I saw them. 1. How many circuits did I need. As this would not be daily driver, not a race car, I needed more than a few circuits. As this Z would not be equipped with aftermarket hydraulics, heavy sound, power mirrors, GPS, flashing wheel well lights, 120 watt light bars or any of a host of other aftermarket power drain, I could do quite well with the 10 or so circuits of the stock Z. 2. Reliability I know there are Z owners here that consider the Z wiring scheme to be something designed by LUCAS or that the phrase "reliable Datsun Z wiring" to be an oxymoron. The weaknesses and idiosyncrasies of the Z wiring scheme are well known and largely curable, most by simple plug and play harnesses. I did not trust my wiring skill set to be adequate to guarantee my wife that we wouldn't lose lights some night somewhere between Caliente and Ely, Nevada. Remember, my use is as a driver that will see [i hope] a lot of highway miles. 3. Stock Interior I did not wish to alter the interior from stock. My desire to keep a stock appearance dictated that I would live with the Datsun combination switch. Mr. Irwin was able to add a plug and play sub-harness that incorporated a relay for the head lights. A major design defect of the Datsun wiring solved. I chose to retain the Ammeter. Perhaps not a wise decision, as Mr. Irwin could have easily modified the instrument panel harness to use a 280 voltmeter. But, again, I wanted a stock interior 4. Personal Growth I did not factor into my decision any element of acquiring new skills or taking on a new challenge. To be honest, if I were retired or 20 years younger, I would have gathered my friends, a few cases of beer, 20 pounds of carne asada and wired it like a Chevy over a weekend. Yeah, that combination switch would be dumped in favor of something from Flaming River or GM.
  13. I'm looking for four adapters to mount Honda 4x100 wheels to Datsun. Prefer Ross's MotorSport adaptors if available. Others would be considered. Zgeezer
  14. You're right, of course, in that the mc is still on the car and not in my vice. However, I'm looking for some direction as to why one side of the MC pumps and holds pressure, while the other does not. I suppose my real question is rather or not these "symptoms" would point to a mis-adjusted rod or a faulty bleeding procedure or a faulty/corroded m/c. I'm looking for direction. z
  15. I am bleeding my master cylinder while installed in the car. The power brake unit is from a 280zx 2+2 and is approximatly 10.5 inches in diameter. I've run a clear plastic tubing from each master cylinder bleed port to its corresponding fluid reservoir. I've filled each with DOT 5. After two strokes pushing air, the front reservoir has a complete cycle: fluid enters the tubing and on the second stroke completes the circuit and re-enters the reservoir. The back reservoir is different. On the first stroke fluid fills the tubing to almost the level of the loop back into the reservoir. However, upon releasing the pedal, the fluid immediately returns to the master cylinder, leaving nothing in the tube. On the next stroke, the fluid from the back reservoir will elevate in the tube; but, then immediately return to the master cylinder. The brake pedal has a distinct feel to it: It has a 1/4 inch of free travel before it engages the master cylinder. Once engaged there is a smooth transition (with a tad of resistance) throughout the stroke until the very end. At stroke's end there is a distinct "click" both felt and heard. The pedal returns to the up position easily and smoothly. This master cylinder was purchased new several years ago and was filled, briefly, with DOT3 before it was removed, drained, and stored on a shelf in my storage unit. I carefully measured the brake rod length on the bench with the vacuum unit out. I "think" that dimension is ok. In terms of troubleshooting, what should be my next step? I have another new 280zx ('83) that looks the same; but, the mounting ears are horizontal rather than vertical. Is the later unit a "bolt one"? Regards, z