zpeedracer25

I believe this will cover only 1977-78 2 seaters from the research I did while trying to find a stock tank. I'm posting a pic with dimensions written in. The tank is basically a rectangle with the corner trimmed off to help with exhaust clearance and an L put on the top for fitment(against spare tire well and frame rail), vapor line, and burp tube. There is one correction in red. That upper L should have been at that measurement but the fabricator got it wrong. The tank still fits in place but is 2" farther back in the car then stock. There is no exact placement on the sender, just drilled a hole where it looked good and same with the fittings. Fittings are just weld on 3/8" pipe thread except for the suction line which is 1/2" pipe thread. Metal I believe is 0.100" aluminum. The pick up is located below the sender with a baffle separating the middle of the tank from front to back and another L-shaped baffle near the right front corner around the pickup. Pickup tube is 11/16 I.D. tube bent to the bottom of the tank. Credit to Fred's Automotive in Independence for the good job with the build. Fred's good, but slow...cost $300 to build + $100 for the sender and took 4 months including 2 mock ups and one exploded finished tank to complete.

Here is what it looks like. It's not as pretty, but still functional. I'm going to end up using a Ford type fuel cell sender with range from 70 to 10 ohms.

I just watched the cars trailer on there. If you pause the video there's actually three of them in the stands. In the upper right corner of the stands are a gray one and a blue one. The video I watched was at 01:15 though.

I saw that yesterday with the kiddos, but spotted only 3. Glad to see them in there!

Your tank looks much different then the later 280z tanks. The spare tire well doesn't protrude as far down on those. I'm having something similar built at a local race car fab shop here in Kansas City. I'll post some pics when it's done.

Thanks for the info guys. Pallnet, got your email. Now I just need to decide if I want to do it the fast way...buy one from Pallnet, or take the time to make one. Time is hard to come by nowadays!

Certainly one of you guys on here has made one of these.

I'd have to agree. My point was that the heat is exchanged from the heat of the engine through the rail. Since when can you compress fuel?? How come pressurized coolant in your engine stays cooler then non-pressurized...hmmmm? The only heat that the pump adds is the heat it transfers from itself(i.e. pump gets hot doing work of pumping fuel). Take out your Raytek and measure the fuel line temperature at the fuel filter and the fuel line temp out of the rail and I'm sure you'll see a big difference.

Just thougth I'd add my 2 cents worth. I didn't see anyone mention the fact that your fuel gets heated while in the rail directly above a huge heat source and the excess (heated) fuel gets dumped back in the tank thus increasing the temp of your gas even in the tank. I'm not sure how hot it gets on the inlet to the rail...too many factors like ambient temp, time driven, and driving style/conditions. A fuel cooler is a good idea. Good luck with it!

Hey everyone, Been a while since I posted here...so long I had to rejoin! Anyhow, I just purchased some Supra 440cc injectors and need to do some custom fuel rail work. Anyone have recommendations on how big the I.D. of the new rail should be or specs for drilling out the new rail? I'm also wondering if you guys know of some good suppliers for bulk rail. Thanks, Gary