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Rob240z last won the day on October 30 2013

Rob240z had the most liked content!

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About Rob240z

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  • Birthday 06/04/1976

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    Jamestown, RI

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  1. Rob240z

    WTB: 4-5 speed Transmission

    I have 2 transmissions I need to sell. Sold my 240z early this summer. Bought a Porsche 928 and I have a bunch of Z parts I need to put up for sale soon to make some space. One is a 240sx transmission that has been mated to a 280z front half / bell housing. Hasn't been used since the conversion was done. Bought from a member on here. It's supposed to be in good working condition. I have the early 240z driveshaft that is the correct length too. I'd sell it for $400 with driveshaft. I also have a Nissan T5 transmission with the correct driveshaft for sale too. This came out of a good running/driving 280zxt that was parted out due to rot. I know the previous owner well that parts out a lot of rotten Z's. The top cover was removed to inspect the transmission. It seems to be in good shape, but I'm not an expert. Due to this having been opened up and will need a little assembly I'd let it go for $200 with driveshaft. I'm in Jamestown, RI. Probably 5.5-6 hours from you.
  2. Rob240z

    FS: 1971 240z V8 - SOLD

    It sold to someone local today. Thanks, Rob
  3. Rob240z

    FS: 1971 240z V8 - SOLD

    Also, This was my thread on CTZCC.com when doing the V8 swap. http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7604
  4. Rob240z

    FS: 1971 240z V8 - SOLD

    1971 Datsun 240z HLS3025007 Price - $16,000 Located - Jamestown, RI Currently there is 74,819 miles on the odometer. When I bought it the title said it was 153,068 (Actual Mileage). So the odometer has gone around once and it’s been driven about 20,000 miles in 14 years. I purchased this car in 2001, sold it to a friend in 2006, then bought it back from him in 2008. He never registered the car or put it on the road, but did have it repainted in the original 918 orange. The car is a series 2 240z with some series 1 parts (dash, center console, and rear glass). I think it is an October 1970 build. This was the 2nd 240z I owned and because the 1st had major rot issues I made sure to find one that was as rust free as possible in my budget. This car was the best I could find at the time. The original owner had it Ziebarted when it was brand new and in my opinion the Ziebarts worked really well. The car is 99% rust free. The interior floor pans have a little surface rust due to the windshield seal leaking, but are very solid and don’t need to be replaced. The passenger side frame rail has no rust, but the last couple of inches of it have been cut off. That was done before I owned it, I’m guessing it started to rust and a previous owner cut it out and just repainted it without a patch. The rest of the body and undercarriage is rust free and still coated in Ziebarts. It has been garaged since I’ve owned it, and never driven in the winter. I keep the car basically stock until 2 years ago when I converted it to a Chevy V8. I still have the original engine, minus the carbs. It ran great right up until it was pulled for the v8 conversion. The person I bought it from said it had been rebuilt about 20,000 miles before I bought it. Engine: Hooker Headers v8 conversion engine mounts Mounts are oriented to sit the engine closer to the firewall. Large journal 327 chevy L98 Aluminum heads Holley 750 Double Pumper Carb - 4179 Isky cam, I don’t know the specs, but it pulls hard to 7000 rpm. About 9:1 compression ratio It probably makes around 325 hp, Never been to a dyno. An Innovate wideband was used to tune the carb and the gauge is mounted in the glove box. It idles around 1000 rpm. AFR is around 13.5 at idle, 12.5 at full throttle, and 14.7 at cruise. Technoversions Tachmatch to use the original tachometer. Champion radiator with dual electric fans Derale dual fan controller. MSD6 Electronic ignition box Optima Red battery Engine fires right up and runs great. Exhaust: Hooker Long tube headers Dual 2 1/2” custom piping 2 Turbo mufflers Complete exhaust has been ceramic coated a silver color Transmission: Transmission is a Super T10 4-speed. I like the transmission, but it doesn’t have overdrive, which gets old fast. Also, I think the input bearing needs to be replaced because is starting to make noise. Instead of rebuilding the Super T10 I was going to replace it. I have an 1988 Iroc Camaro WC T5 transmission that could go with the car. I recently had the T5 inspected at a transmission shop. The transmission was in good condition, but I had them install new shifter fork pads because they said they were a little worn. I also have a Qwik Stik rear offset shifter that will enable the shifter to come up in the original 240z shifter position. To use this transmission, the transmission mount would need to be modified and the drive shaft shortened with a different front yoke. The transmission still works fine, but it really needs overdrive. New zoom clutch last summer. Speedometer/odometer stopped working last fall. The speedo gear in the transmission stripped. I put probably about 500 miles on it before it was put away for the winter. I had planned on installing the T5 this winter, which would fix that, but I didn’t have the time because of work. Engine and transmission is out of Rags old 260z that Clive bought. I traded Clive for a L30 Rebello long block. I think rags is temporarily running the long block in a new project. Rear end: 280zx turbo differential with 3.55 gears OBX LSD with Bellville washers. 280zx turbo cv axles. Differential and cv axles have been rebuilt last summer. RT Mount as well as factory mount with trimmed poly bushing from below. Suspension: Eibach progressive springs KYB struts I bought the energy suspension complete kit, I have installed some of the bushings, but not all. I still have the rest of the kit though. Brakes: Factory front disc brakes and rear drums (I don’t track the car). I do have new Toyota S12W Calipers and new rotors to convert the front. I also have new rear Maxima calipers for the rear, but don’t have the conversion brackets for the rear. Also have new stainless braided brake lines. Willwood master cylinder. Interior: The interior is mostly factory stock in good condition. The chrome paint on the door panels is peeling some and showing some blue. Seats have been redone in vinyl Center vent is pealing chrome a little. Dash has a cap. It was installed before I bought it so I don’t know the original dash condition. Momo Protipo Steering wheel with Datsun horn button. I still have the original steering wheel and horn pad in good condition. Rear speaker box with 2 speakers (the one that is really common in these cars) Kenwood head unit. It is about 4 years old, but has a usb port in the front of it. It is not audiophile good, but it sounds great to me. Exterior: BRE front ducted fiberglass spook from Les Cannaday BRE rear fiberglass spoiler from MSA Chrome Raydot driverside mirror (I have another for the passenger side that was never installed) Bumpers are original and in pretty good condition with no rust. They are not perfect new chrome though. New hood emblem. Paint was redone in 2007. It was never wet sanded or compounded, but looks really good. It is not perfect though, but with a good detail it looks great. There is a crack in the paint above the rear passenger wheel. That was my fault and it happened when I tried to roll the fender lip to fit wider wheels. I think it could be fixed, but it has been hard for me to find anyone that works on single stage paint anymore. Some of the weatherstripping is getting old and could be replaced. One of the rear window chrome corner trim pieces is missing. I have a replacement. Wheels and Tires: Rota RBR 16x8 on all for corners. Offset is +10. It has 7mm spacers in front, none in rear. Tires are BFG KDW2 NT 225/50/16. Tires and wheels are 2 years old with about 2500 miles on them. They’re still in great condition. Glass: All glass is in good shape except the front windshield. The front windshield is not cracked, but it has little marks all over it (I’m not sure how to describe it, maybe pitted?). They just seem to be from the windshield being really old and stuff hitting it while driving over the years. It is the original glass. I have not had good luck when having windshields replaced in the past and have been reluctant to change it. It causes a glare when driving toward the sun. Reason I’m selling: I told my wife many times after buying it back last time that I would never sell this car. But things change. Business is going well and I’m really busy. Last September I bought a 1985 Porsche 928s 5-speed (my other favorite car). Mostly because I have 2 small kids and 2 seats wasn’t enough for a family of 4. I find that the only time I have for driving the car is when doing stuff with the family. The Porsche fits my life situation better. Also, I only have a 1 car garage. So right now the Porsche is sitting outside every day and night and I don’t like that. The Datsun is more sensitive to the elements so that is the way it will be until it’s sold. I have only driven the Datsun out once this year. It’s time for a new home. Someday I will build a big detached garage/barn. If that was already done, I wouldn’t be selling the car. The 240z is actually in really good shape, I am a perfectionist though and see all the flaws in everything so my description probably makes it sound worse than it is. I don’t do a lot of car shows, but It had actually taken 2nd place in the foreign modified car class at a large local show 2 years ago. The show is made up of about 400 cars that are mostly drivers. Most people that have seen the car think it looks amazing and ask if it was just painted. To me it’s obvious that it hasn’t. From 10 feet it looks great. The car is a blast to drive. By far the fastest car I’ve owned. PM me for my contact info, I don’t like to publish it on the web. This is a link to my 240z flickr album. Some of the pictures are before the engine swap. The L-engine parts in the pictures have been sold. They are there because I was originally building a rotrex supercharged stroker L-engine, but changed my mind, and went v8 instead. It was a tough decision, both engines are great. The v8 won for me because for the same level of power the v8 is a milder build, and I thought would last longer because of that. https://www.flickr.com/photos/robolejniczak/sets/72157632541238636/ Thanks, Rob
  5. Rob240z

    HybridZ Apparel Order Thread, Round 3

    1 Dark heather hoodie XXL 1 Black t-shirt XXL Zip 02835
  6. Rob240z

    WTB: E31 or E88 (early casting 71-72)

    Hi cnwayland, I have a E31 that came out of my 71 240z when I did a v8 swap last year. The head is complete and still attached to the block on an engine stand. It didn't leak at all and was in a good running car, I just wanted to swap in a v8. The head, cam, valves is stock, but the previous owner said the valve seats were changed a few years before I bought the car in 1999. Engine had about 75,000 miles on before it came out. If you can't work things out with Zantech get in touch. Take care, Rob
  7. About a year ago I was having the same problem with my car. I was able to max out the slave throw at first, but within a few days it started not wanting to fully disengage again when I was away from home. Within a few more miles it wouldn't disengage at all. After I had the car towed home I pulled the transmission and clutch. One of the springs in the clutch hub broke and came out. The spring lodged itself between the center of the flywheel and clutch. It never sounded like anything broke. There was no weird noises. I resurfaced the flywheel and put in a new clutch and it has been fine since. That was my experience, yours might or might not be the same. It could also be the clutch fork pivot. A bad throwout bearing will usually make noise when you push the clutch pedal down, but the clutch fork might have come out of it's place where connected to the throwout bearing. Once you completely rule out the hydraulics as a possible problem you need to drop the transmission and inspect everything. Good luck.
  8. Rob240z

    OBX Differential Inspection and Installation

    I did a very similar thing when I installed the obx in my car. This is the thread on here that describes how I got them in without taking the diff apart. I did it with the diff installed in the car. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114145-what-happens-if-you-dont-install-retaining-clips-for-280zxt-cv-axles/
  9. I converted my 240z to 280zxt cv axles last winter following this write up. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html With an R200 already in a 240z all you need is 280zxt cv axles, 280zxt companion flanges, R200 differential front pinion grease seal (75mm O.D. X 40mm I.D.), 2 - 280zx stub axle lock nuts, and 12 new nuts, bolts and washers for the half shaft to companion flange. Overall it was an easy conversion. I paid $125 for the cv axles, $80 for the companion flanges, and $12 for the stub axle nuts. I don't remember the cost of the pinion seal or hardware, but it wasn't very much. I haven't had any binding at all. Overall I think this is the cheapest way to do it. I have a mild 327 chevy making about 325 hp, torque unknown, just a fun street car. Haven't had any problems.
  10. Rob240z

    Pair CV axles F/S

    Hi Joel, Axles arrived and look good. This is the 3rd time I got parts from you. I wonder what else you have I'd be interested in! Thanks, Rob
  11. Rob240z

    AAARRGH clutch shopping, need suggestions

    I still have a brand new Spec 3+ clutch I never installed sitting on a shelf in my garage. I was building a 3 liter L-engine, but swapped it for a Chevy 327 and installed that instead. I had the fidanza flywheel too, but I already sold that. If your interested PM me. Thanks, Rob
  12. Rob240z

    SBC Parts 4Sale

    Hi Mike, The carb parts arrived a few days ago and everything looks great. Thanks again, Rob
  13. Rob240z

    SBC Parts 4Sale

    Hi Mike, Assuming the box of carb parts are for Holley carbs I'll take it. Let me know and I'll send paypal right over. Thanks, Rob
  14. Rob240z

    Muncie/T-10/Saginaw in a Z Car

    The clutch fork angle should work fine. Which T5 bell housing you are using would make a difference though. The camaro t5 bell housing mounts the transmission at an angle. The transmission won't sit level like a T10 normally would. I'm not sure if that would be a problem or not. My engine uses the old Hooker mounts. They are just like the scarab mounts. I did flip them around though which sets them back a little more than the normal scarab location. The side mount shifter on the t10 is in front of the shifter hole. I'm using a rear offset shifter (about 4") to make it come up in the correct spot.