PapaSmurf

I'm absolutely sure that the frame is going to be tweaked after this many years and who knows how many hits its taken. I could spend an eternity screwing with it or I could get it straight and back on the road. I dropped the gas tank and sawed through the 35 year old hoses now I need to source them. I removed the drivers side door and it looks like the lower hinge pin is broken it probably happened when it crashed it was loose but intact before. I removed the hinges and I have a set of better ones sand blasted and a brand new pin to press in. Hopefully I can get the door set up properly. Waiting on a friend with a welder to help out with the back im just going to close the holes a d shave it. I removed the other bumper strut now that I have the tank off too. I don't see any damage under the tank area or any signs of movement.

With that window out the door still will not close I removed a few bolts in side of door that were binding and it still doesn't shut its odd it doesn't look like the body moved at all let alone enough to cause this much of a problem on the door

I can see some seperation between the deck of the hatch and the side sheet metal on the drivers side - its about an 8th of an inch and there is bondo there from a previous hit. Other than that I don't see anything I'm going to remove the inner panels and look closer. I pulled out the side window it seems to have been pushed forward slightly by the hit there was rust and bondo below and a little crumpled sheet metal maybe from before maybe from now I don't know

Thanks I have a friend with a wire feed I can borrow but if that falls through I'll probably pick up a cheap arc welder at harbor freight and just do it I'm working on reforming and painting the tail light casings and trim. I have a set of door hinges to rebuild hopefully I can get this door to close the body doesn't look like it moved much but something is making this door bind where it didn't before frame seems straight...

Hehe well I suppose I have to learn... I've heard of fiberglass rear valances and bumpers so I was hoping for a cheaper easier solution

thief got into my car and wrecked it. It took a hit to the rear bumper which crumpled the rear drivers side a bit, door doesnt shut well but I think I can fix it with the new hinges I have and my hammer. got the back bumper off and started exploratory surgery. The car had taken a hit to its rear before I got it and there was quite a bit of bondo and rust. I'm trying to formulate a plan of attack. I dont weld but this rear valance has got to go I was thinking of shaving it somehow its pretty crumpled. Maybe I can cut it off and replace it with some ricey wire mesh... any ideas would be greatly appreciated. The fuel tank is smashed luckily I have a new one in a box wrapped in syranwrap - I'll drop the old and remove the other bumper strut and then I'm not sure what I'm going to do

I like the look I think my kids would end up peeling it all off in a month tho they should offer a hardener to spray on I wonder how awful a coat of clear would look on this stuff

I need to buy another latch now that I know it fits for the other side and a urethane mold kit to make a new seal

Woot I got the sunroof latch in the mail today its not an exact match but it was soooo close the id of the retaining pin hole was smaller than what I had so I used the pin that came with the new latch and used my old plastic piece so it matched I just needed the pin that went through the glass :)

Makes me want to swap heads and use a mechanical pump or get off my ass and get started with megasquirt and a return to efi but that would mean a new fuel tank.

I think it isn't venting properly or the system was just designed for the return pressure from fuel injection and the carbs flow before the return line does... It doesn't leak when the engine is running at least but it makes me nervous. With the ignition on the fuel pump runs constantly and does not shut off like it should I think I need to deal with electrical gremlins soon

Well fark I'm losing this battle. With the holley regulator holding a steady 3psi and a brand new float valve the carb is still leaking out the float chamber. The float is not sinking and is adjusted. I'm at a loss. I blew through the return line to check for blockage and it was not easy and it seemed to just pressurize the tank as though its not venting. After blowing fuel spewed out so I guess its not clogged. I popped off the gas cap and It didn't make any difference.

Nope no rtv anywhere in the can not sure what blocked it up but it needs reground for sure oh wells I've amassed lots of spares due to thinking ahead prior screw ups lol i got it running properly now and a new fuel regulator to mount tomorrow but ive found a rip in my rack boot and two ball joints that need my attention before its gonna go anywhere. Cheaper out and reused the clutch and that's slippery too so it looks like I'm out most of the summer

Call me crazy but I really love this sunroof. It suits the car its been there for every mile on the odometer. Does anyone have any ideas on how to make a new seal or repair this one if a nos piece can not be found? I was thinking if I remove the frame and seal it then I have my mold...

Couldn't get a good photo but