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3ftyZ

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Posts posted by 3ftyZ

  1. After emailing @Skillard, and being pointed out to the website (really, im that dumb:banghead:), its clear that the core supports are different on earlier s30's from both depth standpoint and bolt thread diameter.

    Proceeding forward, I'll start by getting long bolts with some nylon spacers and washers. Then i'll have a look at the mounting position of the front air dam and see if any adjustments are called for. Lastly, I'll have to figure out my sway bar situation which impacts the rear panel of the splitter.

    Thanks all for the help! I'll update this thread when I make progress.

  2. 7 hours ago, evoog said:

    Airdam looks like its installed way to low. Take the bolts off, push it up, and then tru to place the splitter on. You can always contact skillard

    thanks @evoog

    I was afraid that might be the case, and I think that will make the air dam point upward which might look funny. I guess when I make the adjustment, we'll see how it goes.

    I've never thought about contacting Mr. Skillard - ill hold onto that as i move forward.

    Does anyone have a picture of their cross member that shows the holes that should bolt up?

  3. Thanks!

    here’s  the first problem I may have:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/2AEsZPGVKqt67FBq2

    Is my air dam installed too low? Look at the forward mounting area - should it be pointing more up? I installed it this way as it is level at this angle. 

    Here's a shot of the radiator core support and the funky radiator holder the previous owner installed. The sway bar is also in the way...

     https://photos.app.goo.gl/ilQHdr0VgzPNwcEF2

  4. I need some help.

    I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it.

    Here's my combo:

    73 240z

    the problem?

    1. The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size
    2. The sway bar is in the way
    3. The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches
    4. The air dam appears to be way lower that those of the pictures I've seen, so when i pull up the splutter to the bottom of the air dam, it doesn't come up to the core support to allow it to mount up.

    One thing I know will get in my way - the previous owner hacked in some radiator supports that are lower than the stock core support - so I'll have to make some adjustment there.

    Does anyone have pictures of the core support and the mounting holes I should be using? 

    Does this air dam even work with the splitter? Did i completely F it up by buying two incompatible parts? I'll try and take some pictures but without more hands it'll be hard to show the gap...

    Helps!!!

  5. Hey all,

     

    I installed my R200 CLSD last weekend and came across a small predicament.

     

    The bolts i purchased to mate the drive-shaft to the pinion flange are too big!

     

    I used the Drive Shaft Adapter Flange from:

     

    http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html

     

    Specifically, the adapter for 300ZX (part number #DAT-110-300ZX)

     

    I purchased 4 10mm x30mm socket cap bolts, but the head diameter is too large and there's no sleeve/shoulder.

     

    What I cant find is either the original bolts from Nissan for the 88 300zx turbo that the R200 came out of, or a similar replacement.

     

    This is the closest I can find, but the head diameter is grater than 14mm, which is what I measured for head diameter:

     

    http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=14077

     

    any ideas on how I can find the right fasteners?

     

    Thanks!

     

    3ftyZ

  6. Do you have a pic of the JCR adapter? Just curious if it's what I had envisioned.

     

    Here's the only pic I have of it.

     

    https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XmUIbyv0rWIe7EZp9HFJq4P_c2oYhsQyJbWzj1heIFM?feat=directlink

     

    it's got a SPICER number on it, but I failed to take a picture of that before I assembled the driveshaft and u-joints. I can't read it now that its assembled.

     

    I'm not sure if JTR guys modified the part in any way.

  7. Is this the part you are referencing in this thread?

     

    The input flange?

    post-1894-040424000 1323269750_thumb.jpg

     

    Looks different than mine. look at my picture linked above and you'll see my pinion flange is cirlce, not squared off like yours. you may need the '#DAT-110-2.0'

     

    I used the "Drive Shaft Adapter Flange. (2 Inch Pilot), for 300ZX Cars. #DAT-110-300ZX" from http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html

     

    I've put new u-joints in and had the drive shaft balanced and its ready to go back in the z.

  8. When I switched to the 300ZX CLSD I already had the JTR adapter installed on my driveshaft. So I used the 280Z R200 pinion flange on the CLSD. I am running a modified LT1/4L60E connected to the diff with a shortened Z28 driveshaft and 1320 u-joint. JTR does make an adapter to fit the 300zx inplut flange if you want to go that way.

     

    Deja,

     

    I think this is it:

     

    http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html

     

    Thanks~

  9. If you're putting it in a 240 with an L6, I would guess that the 280Z flange is the most common. If you're putting a V8 in it, I suspect that the John's cars adapter or a fabricated driveshaft with the Chevy front and Datsun rear U/J is the most common.

     

    I've already got a 350 chevy in mine and have been running the rear end that came with the car. The guy I bought it from welded the spider gears for drag use and I've been slowly obtaining parts for the CLSD conversion. The unit I purchased is a R200 from an 88 300zx turbo, which I guess explains why its not as common as the others.

  10. I don't think there are a lot of pinion flange failures, but I don't know the ins and outs of pinion flanges. I think JTR and John's Cars might have something for you, as they've been putting these diffs into high powered V8's for years.

     

    http://www.johnscars.com/

     

    From John's Cars http://www.johnscars...zcar/zcar.html:

     

    Makes sense to me to run an adapter if it permits a full size U-joint. I'm not big on bolting parts onto parts onto parts, but it seems like the U-joint is the most failure prone thing in there, so probably an improvement. I believe stock Camaro uses 1330, which is pretty big compared to stock Datsun.

     

    Thanks for the input and advice. I'll reach out to Johnscars.com to see what he's got.

     

    What do most people run for their pinion flanges for CLSD conversions? I would have expected my scenario to be quite common.

     

    Thanks again!

  11. Yes, no crush sleeve. Swap, red loctite, and torque to spec, which is something like 135-210 ft lbs.

     

    JMo,

     

    Is the newer pinion flange superior to the old? It looks beefier and all-around more stout that the original piece. I'd like to use this over swaping as the diff is all setup and ready to go and I'm not confident in which torque specs I should follow.

     

    I'd like to find the companion flange to mate to my drive shaft and upgrade the universal joints at the same time, do you have any recommendation on where I can find the correct companion flange?

     

    I appreciate all you guy's help.

     

    thanks

  12. hey guys,

     

    I tried searching for the answer to this question and found mixed results.

     

    Here's what I'm working with:

     

    I purchased a R200 CLSD off ebay,it's the late 80's CLSD, had it serviced and added clutches from Savage a few years back. Now I finally have time to work on the car and I have my old R200 out of the car and have found that the pinion flange on the new CLSD R200 is significantly different than the original R200 (my car is a 73 240).

     

    Here's a link with a picture of the new r200 (left), drive shaft (middle) and old r200 (right):

    https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ilX-RtNz1CMt8XSftEBVuIP_c2oYhsQyJbWzj1heIFM?feat=directlink

     

    My questions:

     

    1. Can I simply swap the pinion flanges? I read that the nut that secures the flange is also used to set pre-load, etc, so i assume the answer is NO.

     

    2. If the answer to 1 is no, then i'll need to have the drive shaft modified for a new companion flange. Whats the best option to purchase this flange?

     

    3. Also, I'd like to get some heavy duty universal joints while I'm at it, what do you guys recommend for the pinion/companion flanges and universal joints?

     

    4. Since I have the rear of the car disassembled, is there anything I should look for or take care of before reassembly?

     

    Thanks!

    3ftyz

  13. Go back to the very first post in this thread and it's pretty straight forward as to what you need to do. If you want to use all 6 new clutches, then you take out the two existing ones and use all 6. If you retain the 2 OEM clutches, then just add the 4 clutches in the positions in this picture. This is how it's been done with the 100+ units that people have done over the years and not a single problem to date. (that I'm am aware of) Hope this helps.

     

    Savage. Thanks again for your help.

     

    So, the clutches and the plates are all metal, is this correct? There is no 'friction' material (like a clutch in a transmission) on these LSD units? Sorry for the 'dumb' questions, just a noob looking for help.

     

    Thanks!

  14. Hey guys, I need your help.

     

    I picked up a R200 LSD and bought 6 'clutches' from Savage. I took the diff to a local guy who build r190's for his customers and he and I are a bit confused by what parts I need to complete the 6 clutch setup.

     

    In reading the first post on this topic, it is suggested that the reinstall of the clutches and plates should be in this order:

     

    spring disc

    spring disc

    clutch

    plate

    clutch

    plate

    clutch

    center section

    clutch

    plate

    clutch

    plate

    clutch

    spring disc

    spring disc

     

    Here's the confusion: when he disassembled the diff/lsd, everything looked good from a wear perspective - but the 6 'clutches' I got are metal, but in the lsd there's only one set of friction 'plates(?)' that is installed from the factory. My question is two fold - 1, the 'clutches' I got from savage are metal which makes me think they are 'plates' because they have no friction material, is this correct? 2, where do I get the extra friction discs, (which I though were the clutches) to complete the setup? I need to get pictures to help you guys out, which I will try and obtain, but I'm confused as from everything I've seen about this topic is that the only parts I'd need is the 'clutches' from Savage. Are the parts I got from Savage the Clutches or the Plates? I bought 6 from savage that have the tabs on the inside.

     

    If the metal pieces I got are the clutches, then what is the name of the other pieces that have the friction material (like a transmission clutch) called?

     

    I have read and re-read this post many times and only seen one post about parts which refers to this link: http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=3102, which confuses me even more.

     

    any help you can provide is much appreciated.

  15. Gary!

     

    You're the man. How can I order the clutch pack from you?

     

    I think I have your email from previous communications (before the site upgrade which wiped out my hybridz account).

     

    I'll also follow up with you in a PM

     

    thanks a bunch.

     

    3ftyZ (as in 350 chebby in a 240z!)

  16. Jacob, Who did you buy the clutch packs from? Last post on this thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/52029-adding-clutches-to-the-clsd-r200/page__st__40) said Gary said he has more available, but I haven't heard back yet.

     

    Anyone else know where I can get the 4 clutch pack?

     

    Also, is there any tricks to converting it from 2 clutch to 4? I plan on taking the diff to my local drive-line specialists to have them build the clutches, so I want to find as much information as I can before having it done.

     

    thanks for all the help.

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