HaaJeHaa

OS Giken on Facebook just announced it. https://m.facebook.com/OSGiken/

I just saw the announcement on Facebook. A truly knowledgeable guy that has helped me several times. Rest in piece.

I hope so. I'm in marked for a new Z, altough I feel offers over 5k is unrealistic for a car that need 20-25k in parts and paint.

Thanks, I've been offered cars for 6 - 12k in this state. Do you know of any?

Whats the realistic price for a rolling 1970 series 1 240z with no engine, some rust and in need for a total restoration? How far should I stretch?

Ok, thanks! I'm keeping an lookout at ebay and craigslist as well

Want to buy a 240z thats registered before january 1. 1971 for a complete restoration. First time registration date is important as it makes modification easier in Norway (laws from 1942 instead of 1971). Planning on doing a full rotisserie restoriation with upgraded driveline and engine. Anything at interest, though hoping for minimal rust issues. 1-10.000 USD depending on condition. I'll arrange shipping from your garage to me. Let me know if you have one for sale or know of any.

It will fit if you lower your Z on coilovers with camber adjustment and run a little stretched tires. I ran 16x9.5 et -10 with 225/45's on stock fenders (rolled) without any rubbing. A 205/50 tire on the 15x9 will make plenty of room without the need of to much camber. On stock suspension they wil poke to much outside of the fender.

You're meaning me^^ Yup, I have 16x9,5 et-10 w 225/45 all around with a minor fender roll and camber plates. If you're lowering the car, you can easily run 17x9,5 et0 all around if you choose the right tire for clearance and have the tires under the fenders. You might need a set of spacers if you have coilovers/ other clearance issues to the strut tubes.

Ooooooooo, I'm so in for a set!

Hmm, thats why he should considering measuring himself. I do not have that room to play with;)

Nope, you'll need more negative offset to run 10" rear. You'll hit the strut at zero offset. Measure for yourself if you don't believe me;) Not if you pull the rear fenders and run 225/45's. That will work, although not recommended. No need for negative camber at that width for the fronts. Depends on tires though..

No, your eye must be incorrectly adjusted;) You'll need a lot thicker spacers for those to be flush with zg flares. The pic attached is my car with stock fenders, only rolled. I have 16x9,5 et -10 F/R and that is more or less flush (3mm poke). I got 4mm of play to the coilover sleeve. I can't quite understand the camber adjustment purchase for tire wear. You should look into adjustable rear LCA's for toe adjustment... Camber have close to nothing to do with tire wear, toe is what wear tires. Yes, the inside will be worn at neg camber but not much faster than at 0 degrees camber. Camber is great for cornering grip adjustment though... The rubbing issue will depend on your tire selection, mostly overall diameter.

I see;) Coilovers will give you more space to play with, thats why I asked. Yup, you'll need an extra 10mm for the rears to work (about -15 offset on 10"). I would recommend measuring this aswell as my comparison is on Arizona Z coilovers. The fronts will be ok at -8 but they will look sunk-in compared to the rear. That's why I recommend thicker spacer in front. The camber kit won't solve any issues. Your issue is on the inner side of the fender towards the strut assembly. That space won't change whether you give it camber or lower it. I'm not sure about what your thoughts are on the stance of the car. If you're going to run flares a flush setup does look the best. For this about -20 to -25 offset on the 10" is required. Do the math for the fronts yourself;) The stock fenders can run the same width/offset wheels both front and rear as the track (for the 280z atleast) is the same, so you can space the fronts to match the rear. It's really a gamble if you're purchasing parts without knowing the measurements yourself...

I would also go for a lot thicker spacer in the front to let it even with the rear. Go for about 10mm less offset on the fronts, so you'll be at 8,5 et-25 front and 10 et-15 rear. This will require flares both front and rear. In my experience 10" rears without flares are not doable if you're not running a lot of stretch, negativ camber and pulled fenders...

Coilovers or lowering springs? Front will most likely hit the strutcasing at 17x8,5 et5 and the rear will definitely hit at 17x10 et-5. You need about 10mm thicker spacers to clear the inside fender. For the front 17x8,5 et-5 will work, but the rear at 17x10 et-15 would need flares. It would poke way to much... As all cars have small differences, suspension setups etc you will have to measure yourself to be safe. 10 min of work will answer all your questions. See www.willtheyfit.com and go and measure;)

Why doesn't CCW have many options in 4 lug? They drill the holes per your specifications...

Can't beat CCW. All custom and at about $2500 a set its cheap too. Great customer service.

Early S13 fits aswell. Cheap and good selection of different lengths.

Double post

Popped the cover off the AFM and all connections seems fine. The mechanics is also in working order... I've actually ran the fuel pump on my workbench in diesel just to see how it behaves. Steady stream of fuel for 10 minutes, so its not that. I have no idea what could be wrong.... It ran perfectly before I began work on it, so it's either something that's wrong to the parts fitted or it didn't like to sit for 2 years.

Need help! I'm no expert so I need a little advise. I've searched and tried several suggested fixes, but the car won't run properly. Engine: 1977 280z stock L28 Symptoms: Car starts easily, idles great and I can easily drive the car out of the garage. As soon as it get hot the car won't rev properly and backfires. When throttle is increased the car stutters at 1400 rpm and drops till it dies. The car at this point doesn't have enough pull to be driven back into its garage. It still idles and revs above 3000 fine though. The car worked fine, except cold start problem, two years ago when the car was set to work on. During the 2 years of work on it (engine related) it has pulled the AC (just pump and plumbing), replaced all bosch connectors, replaced all fuel lines, replaced distributor cap + rotor + plugs + wires, fitted k&n intake filter, 6-1 header, fuel filters. The cold start problem is now gone (because of new bosch connector), but it now hesitates to much when hot to the point it's undrivable. I think it basically runs to lean, so I've checked all connections (new), fuel pump, tank (recoated inside), vaccum, and it all looks good. The AFM looks like it works great and I just cant seem to find the cause. The water temp sensor isn't dead since the engine dies when I pull that connector, so it must give some sort of signal. Any ideas or suggestions on what it could be? I have the Haynes manual and the FSM, but I can't seem to find a solution. Thanks!

I did actually run the Rota RBR group buy setup before this one. 17x9 et -13 front and 17x9.5 et -19 rear. That poked 12mm up rear at about the same ride height, at even lower the wheel actually tucked under the fenders.

My advice to you is to start measuring at the rideheight you wan't. Use www.willtheyfit.com for calculation of wheel specs (poke measurements). My specs where made after about 2 full days of measuring and playing with the adjustments.

I got thicker wheel centers (high disc) in front for big brake clearance and thin center rear (low disc). That's why the lips are different sizes and the offset/back space/specs are the same. I did this for maximum rear lip and therefore rear wheels doesn't fit in front. Beauty of 3 pc custom wheels! See quick paint drawn visualization: The tires are new for this season;) I have driven on this setup, no rubbing issues. I can easily fit my hand between the tire and fender when the car is parked. The geometry of the Z's suspension makes the camber even more negative when loaded making room for suspension travel. My complete setup: 77 280z w/ 240z styling CCW Classic 16x9.5 et -10 225/45-16 (stretched) Bolt-in camber plates (biscuit type), maxed out negative at all 4 corners. Don't fear the camber! Arizona Z Car coilovers Arizona Z Car rear LCA's Rolled fender lips (SIlver Mine Motors BBK f/r) Flush up front, a little poke in the rear (3mm). It takes some work to have it fit, altough nothing impossible. This isn't a performance setup, more show than go, although it's still usable on good roads.