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MONGO510

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Everything posted by MONGO510

  1. As you may know, diesel fuel works pretty well as a heavy degreaser. The trouble with it is the odor sticks around for quite a long time. does anyone have any experience using Biodiesel as an alternative? Thanks
  2. I cant see where you have checked your pinion- trans, drive shaft angles. this could cause your problem.
  3. Good to hear. My t56 is hard to shift at high RPM and I think this may be the solution.
  4. Is anyone running face plated synchros in there gearbox? How are they working out?
  5. did you seal the sides of the main cap?
  6. The engine and transmission are offset approximately 1" to the right to maintain proper alignment with the differential.
  7. I did it . I had to cut holes in the steering column support bracket and thread it through the dash. The radio, heater, and defroster worked fine, but the center vent was inoperable. This issue is probably correctable. Mongo
  8. Not to worry' she is being resurrected with a new body donated by RT and BRAAP.. New additions include scatter shield, fuel injection, and MS&S.
  9. I did this mod using a Honda sized battery. I built a small steel box that fit, cut out the necessary section of the storage compartment, and welded it in. worked just fine. see my build thread for pics. Mongo's Z-Car Build - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ
  10. Yes, as long as it is a 36-1 trigger wheel. I used a EDIS8 setup with a megajolt controller. worked just fine and the spark curve was programmable. My new setup will use MS&S .
  11. Hey Grumpy, been a while since I've been here. My question is this...... I just scored a 400, 4 bolt main, 511 block . It is standard bore and may very well clean up with a good hone job. It was purchased from Somers racing engines and he said it was the straightest factory block he has seen. If this is built properly, what kind of boost levels do you think it could withstand running a banks Twin turbo kit. Problems with ring seal due to thin casting? power levels?Head gaskets? Thanks, Mongo510
  12. Looking good Ronnie!! I want a ride!!!
  13. I increased timing to 12 degrees, set idle at 1200, leaned it to just before missfire. While waiting in line I ran the engine at 2500 rpm. When I pulled in for the test , the cat was blistering hot and it passed easily. They never checked under the hood,never checked idle speed, and they new it was a Chev motor. As long as it had a cat and good #'s all was well.
  14. Thanx for t5he reply Leon. Nox is not tested. As a matter of fact they don't check idle speed or even pop the hood. Their only concern is that it have a "cat", if it had one originally. As long as it can meet CO and HC and noise standards, its a go. They don't care what engine is in it either. My engine is producing 15" in. of vacuum, which is a little low, I think if I advance the timing a few degrees I may get a little more vacuum, which should help smooth the Idle, allowing me to lean it a bit. Your thoughts are appreciated. John (Mongo)
  15. I need to clean up my exhaust to pass a smog test. I have a Comp 280 cam that idles pretty rough. I am thinking that if I advance the timing It will raise the vacuum levels and help to smooth out the engine, thus reducing the HC levels. i can then lean it out and get passing CO levels Ideas? I can get pretty close but no cigar yet.
  16. Ron' I think I have one one the scrap pile, what are you looking for
  17. For what its worth, make sure your timing is not retarded. Retarded timing equals lots of heat. Mongo
  18. make sure you have the mount installed correctly. I also had to trim the mount a bit to clear the shaft.
  19. The new race car should be even faster as it wont have any street equipment onboard.
  20. I picked up a new S30 for my latest project. After totaling the last love of my life ( http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/81300-mongos-z-car-build/ ), I was unsure of what I wanted to do next. I was chatting with RTZ(Ron Tyler) and he offered me a couple of vehicles he had at his disposal. One was a 77 280Z and the other was a late 260Z. I was familiar with both vehicles so I bought them both. The 280, sans engine and trany, will become a dedicated Race Car and will receive all of the running gear from the totaled car and should be ready to run for next years NHA .Hillclimb series. The late 260Z is the real gem. This car is for all intents and purposes rust free. It will receive the running gear from 280 and will become a sporty Sunday driver. Here is a pic of the 260Z.
  21. Yeah, It is overkill to say the least. Mongo
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