30 ounce

240zip: You have to drive it. It looks totally stock. (see my pics) I sent you my #. Call me.

I'm using the Isky 490 cam. The idle is a little rough but it works fine around town. Isky recommended 11.5:1 compression to keep power in the lower rpm range (I live at 5280 feet elevation). There is definitley a step up in power at 4000 rpm's and it pulls strongly all the way to 7250 (probably more if I had the nuts). Rebello uses Isky springs. My engine is a Rebello 3.0 liter.

I had to use a 1/2" spacer for mine but they aren't Rota's. I have some friends with 16" Rota RB with the 4X4 vented brakes and they said they had no clearance issues with the spokes. I don't think they'll be any issues with the 15" diameter .

When what?

Sweet! Did you need any spacers or did the rims fit right on and cleared those huge calipers?

I'm running 34 deg. advance with the setup described above. The only hint of pinging I've ever heard was a very hot day last summer when I had 91 octane in it. A local station has 93 octane and that solved it. I was wondering if the .06mm squish area we made welding the chambers helps reduce detonation? (I was told that it would) Does reshaping the chambers help? (was told that too) What is the limiting factor here? Poor combustion chamber design? Thermodynamics? Hot spots in the chamber? I was worried about running 11.5:1 but Bowers Racing (did my head work) Isky (my cam manufacturer) both recommended it. It seams to have worked just fine.

I used the E88 head from my 260. Had a local race shop weld the chambers up to 39.5cc (finished) & reshaped, put steal valve seats and bigger (280z: I forget which one is smaller on the 260, intake or exhaust) valves, ported and flowed, installed Isky 490 lift 290 duration cam & springs for $1500. I used that for a year on my 260 block then decided to build a 3.0 liter. We (my cousin & I)then tore down the head, had new valve guides installed, cleaned up the exaust ports (had a nasty short side radious), unshrouded the valves because now we had 89mm bores to work with, measured each chamber to make sure they were exactly the same. We did not shave the head at any point as I didn't want any timing issues with the cam. Just cleaned everything and made sure it as straight. This time it cost $125 to install the valve guides and I forget how much the guides themselves were. So now I have a 3.06 liter (Rebello Racing 3.0 kit) JE flatop pistons (eyebrowed), Nismo .06mm head gasket, if I did my calculation's correct it should be at 11.5:1 compression. I can run on pump (91 octane here at 5280 ft. elevation) but it does run better on 93 octane.

What oil are you running in the carb dampers? I use 5w motorcycle shock oil or auto transmission fluid. I experimented with other wieghts and found that 15w and above made performance above 2500 rpm's sluggish just as you discribed. Although SU carbs have thier limitations they are capable of 250-300 hp. Ask Dave Rebello.

My car had metal louvers on it when i got it and I hated them! They rattled and squeaked and constantly made noise. I removed them when I repainted in 2002.

This is exactly why I left California 15 years ago and will never return!! They are too intrusive in our lives and I just got fed up with it. I think the polotics and and poloticians are out of control. I was outnumbered at the voting booth though.

Got mine from John. Though I have Tokico Illumina Shocks. Should be same ride hight as blues. My wife wasn't holding the car down much.

LonestarS30z, I don't know what lug nuts they are, they came with the rims which I got nearly 20 years ago.(Wow time flies!! ) But I did notice that NAPA has the exact same size & style when I was looking through their instock selection the other day.

Cleaned up after track day & forgot to put the center caps on!! Kinda looks naked without them.

I have a centerforce dual friction clutch with a lightened stock flywheel (15lbs) on my Rebello 3.0 liter. It's a great combo. Drives really nice on the street and is good for track days.

It actually bounces from 0-8000 rpm's. I suspected it had something to do with the charging circuit. My ammeter guage seams to randomly charge or discharge and it seammed to act up when it was slightly to the positive. mM battery doesn't always get fully charged. Guess it's time to upgrade the alternator and get rid of that external regulator.

It looks like I have about 15 threads exposed. The Tc rods control the amount of caster wich controls the ability to return to center and initial turn in. I have mine set at 3.3 degrees. Any more and I would contact the lower front body panel. If you are able to get more do so. John C has a recomendation on suspension settings sticky. Don't just adjust it on your own...take it to a shop that can do accurately. If you change them it will change everything else like toe, camber, etc. Also they should be exactly the sames settings. It made a huge improvement in front end bite for me.

Well...I thought I had this fixed. The tach works but sometimes goes crazy. Sometimes when I rev to 3000 rpm's the tack goes all over the place. Strangely, if I turn the parking or headlights on it will work flawlessly!! Do I need to put a risistor in line?

My dizzy was rebuilt 8 years ago by an old datsun mechanic-racer. I don't drive my z much so it probably has less than 5000 miles since it was rebuilt. It is the stock one that came with my 260 so assumming he didn't change the vacuum it's probably 17. He was very proud of the work he did and I could tell the car ran much better at the time. Rebello told me to run the '83 dizzy when I built my 3.0 liter but this dizzy worked a lot better so...anyway I wish I knew what he did. I'm also running MSD 6al. I think my initial timing was at 8. I'll check this weekend and get back to you. I have not done a compression test. The engine has less than 2000 miles on it and I've been more concerned with getting the carbs set and chasing the valve lash. They seem to tighten up a little and I don't want burnt valves. My cam is the Isky 490 grind and it does have a lot of overlap. 11.5 is what Isky recommended for compression. Also my combustion chambers were welded & completely reshaped to add compression and give a more detonation resistant shape.

I didn't notice any power loss when I connected the vacuum advance. It's a little more responsive to throttle input. Full throttle acceleration is the same. I'm running 11.5:1 compression, 490 lift 290 duration cam and don't have any preignition problems at all on 93 octane. 91 octane gives a slight ping when cruising up a hill so I'm right there at the edge. I'm using my 260z distrubutor (it was recently rebuilt) and all the mechanical advance is in by 2200 rpm's. I think you should try that MSD unit as it will give you a better spark and adjustability. You could pull a little timing out where it's pinging now and add some on the top end. (Actually I just want someone else to try before I do!!) If you switch to Mikunis will you be able to use the vacuum advance? Seems I've read that's not an option if you use tripples.

Rebello recomended 34 degrees total advance for my 3.0 liter with modified SU's and no vacuum advance. I ran it that way till I put on about 1000 miles and wanted to see what the vacuum advance would do. Seems to me its a little more street friendly to drive and my mpg went from 16-23.8. I need to put this on a dyno and get the most out of it. MSD makes a programmable ignition system where you weld you mechanical advance shut and program your advance with a laptop. I almost went for that but I think I'll see what I can do with what I got first.

I figured it out!! Unplugged the stock transistor ignition unit and the tach works.

I completley agree with you. When I was rattling off parts I was just listing what came in my 3.0 liter kit. I wanted to go with a diesel and 240 rods etc. but could not locate one. When I saw Dave Rebello's kit I went for it and am glad I did. Dave takes a 280z crank and offset grinds the rod journals so they are 2mm smaller wich of course requires rods with smaller big ends. Since he has to get custom made rods he gets them 145mm long and then gets pistons that look like they belong in a motorcycle because they are so small. I think all these add up to a huge weight savings in the rotating assembly a little more dwell at TDC. All I know is I ended up with a motor that loves to rev is totally drivable around town and and a blast at the track. The 3 motors that I saw were at an old guys shop where I got my 240 carbs. He raced Datsuns for years and it would not suprise me if he cut corners building his motors. I do remember him telling me the rod bolts broke in one of the engines and he expected the others were the same. Kinda freaked me out seeing all those broken L series motors. Thought there might be something inherently wrong with them but now ten years later I'm sure it was him.

Dave Rebello is 35 minutes from you. Check out his website www.rebelloracing.com. I used to live in Fairfield California a while back and wish I'd known he was that close to me!!

Hi MikeyZee! I saw that post but the wire colors don't make any sense as my colors are completey different. I have a black wire with green stripe a solid blue wire and black with blue stripe. I was in Parker last weekend with my Z!! Would love some help if you got time!!

I know that the stock rods are forged and quite strong but I have personally seen 3 engines with rods sticking out of the block. It was probably the bolts that let go but the rods were bent to hell too. Do you think the stock rods need to be shotpeened and polished or are they strong enough out of the box? On another point: Jon said a stock 2.8 liter can do 240 whp NA with a lot of head work and the proper cam. That is only 100 hp per liter. Not unheard of even back in the 70's.