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fp280z

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About fp280z

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  • Birthday 10/26/74

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    Austin, TX
  1. Sold. Picked up by the new owner this past weekend. Thus ends 15 years of Z ownership, it's been fun!
  2. There is a deposit down on the car so officially a sale is pending. A few recent pictures from the trailer here: http://www.typeischeap.com/fs.html
  3. Thanks John. And I forgot to mention it does have one of your fiberglass hoods too!
  4. Well folks, it's time to move on. Limited free time and a major autocross addiction means simplifying and minimizing wrench time in the garage. Best Nationals finish for this car was 3rd place in FP in 2012 on pre-R75a radial slicks (videos below). Been building the car from an empty shell since 2000 and it's one of the most balanced cars I've ever driven, very easy to drive, very easy to go fast, extremely fun. Priced for a quick sale, jump in this car and start setting FTD/TTOD at practically any autocross in the country for way less than any Porsche, throw some tires and fuel at it and run with the top cars in FP at the national level. Some history and build threads from over the years at http://www.typeischeap.com $12.5k obo, located near Austin, TX 2012 Solo Nationals - West Course - FP 97 2012 Solo Nationals - East Course - FP 97 Chassis 1972 Datsun 240Z Full Bolt-in Rollcage Fender flares Seam welded engine bay Custom Paint and Vinyl Engine Former SCCA GT2 Road Race Motor (Rebuilt Spring 2011) 13.5:1 compression ratio Shaved/Ported E88 Cylinder Head F54 Block w/ Carillo Rods & JE Pistons Schneider Autocross-grind Camshaft Arizona Z Car Cast Aluminum Oil Pan NOS Mikuni 44mm Race Prepped Carbs (40mm venturies) Cannon Intake Manifold Stahl 6-2-1 Header 3.0" Custom Exhaust, Magnaflow Muffler Electromotive XDi Crank Trigger Ignition Rebello-BHJ Harmonic Damper w/ Trigger Wheel Griffin Aluminium radiator Front-mounted Oil Cooler, thermo-controlled Mallory Comp-110 Fuel Pump Mallory Return-Style FPR Drivetrain Stock 240Z 4-Speed Transmission MSA Short-Shift Kit Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel ACT Pressure Plate ACT Solid Puck Clutch Disc R200 Limited-Slip Differential (from Turbo 300ZX) Wolf Creek Racing CV Axles Modern-Motorsports Rear Stub Axles Suspension/Brakes Ground Control Coilovers 350# Eibach Springs Front 400# Eibach Springs Rear Koni 8610-1437RACE Shocks Ground Control Front Strut Tower Bar Ground Control Front Camber Plates EMI Racing Rear Camber Plates Custom Triangulated Firewall Bars Arizona Z Car Billet Aluminum Control Arms Front Aluminum/Delrin Suspension Bushings Rear Modern-Motorports Aluminum Front Hubs MSA Slotted and Drilled Front Rotors Modern-Motorsports Rear Disk Upgrade (240SX calipers) Hawk HP+ Brake Pads Tires/Wheels Real Racing Aluminum Wheels 16x10 Hoosier Radial Slicks 23.5x11x16 R75/R75a SportMAXX Rain Wheels 15x8 Hoosier Road Race Wets (23x9x15) Interior/Safety Ultrashield Rally Sport Seats Driver(15")/Passenger(16") Simpson Camlock Racing Harnesses Jegs 5-gallon Aluminum Fuel Cell Custom Fuel Cell Cage Custom Gauge Cage w/ Autometer Oil Pressure/Oil Temp/Water Temp Innovate LM1 Wide-band AFR Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge
  5. I've been wanting to post a build thread for my new project but was banned from bimmerforums years ago for some reason that I don't even remember, too many for sale posts I guess. Seems like it's common for Z guys to also dabble in BMWs (this is my second E36) and since this is HybridZ it is probably just as common for us to embark on the LS1 path so I feel like I'm part of a small but completely awesome brotherhood here! I especially want to thank BRAAP (Paul?) for his build threads, they have been very helpful! Getting a new domain setup so I can post some pictures but in the meantime I've been using a Facebook page to track my progress. LS1 and T56 are in, Vorshlag kit is mostly together, working on ABS and rear suspension now: http://www.facebook.com/e36ls1 The FP car is still in the mix and is running better than it ever has. I managed a 3rd place podium finish at last year's SCCA National Championships but I'm taking it easy this year (new baby!) Anyway, will post more as I have time... -Rick
  6. Very sad to hear about this. I bought many great parts from Ross over the years for the race car and they have all performed flawlessly. Rest in peace.
  7. Car seemed much improved this weekend, plenty of power out of the slow corners now with just a hit of bog but clearing up very quickly. Course didn't have any extended high speed areas so I'll have to test the high rpm drop off on the dyno. Will be interesting to see how the AFRs map on the dyno. LogWorks data log attached and the same run on video here for correlation: Full data log here if you have LogWorks: http://www.typeischeap.com/Run_4.log As always, feedback on the data is appreciated. Enjoy!
  8. Some progress today, ohm'd out all of the ignition wires and found #1 to be bad. Around 500kohm vs. 300-700ohms for the other wires (Taylor 8mm Spiro-Core). I don't think I've checked the wires since I built them in '08, shame on me. Swapped in the 60 pilots too and reset the idle. Will test it out (and data log) on Sunday at the autocross!
  9. I use an old clear BIC pen to set the floats, not as elegant as Keith's tool but should be just as accurate if not more so (e.g. you don't have to watch the sight glass to determine when you hit fuel). I've reset the floats since I've been to the dyno, definitely need to get back and see where I'm at and get a new baseline. No mechanical fuel pump here, fuel pressure stays at 3psi all the way through the dyno run according to the dyno guy watching the gauge. Another thing about the dyno is that is should not be dependent on the accel pump. They floor the accelerator under full load, wait for it to stabilize at low rpm, and then the dyno reduces the load to a set level and the rpms climb for the run. To me this seems a bit "artificial" so I've also been digging through my LM2 log data from the past few events to see if it is consistent with the dyno.
  10. The most interesting thing about Keith's paper is that he suggests starting tuning with the air corrector instead of the main jet which is opposite of almost every other side draft book/reference out there. Good reasoning behind it though and it's worth a shot in my case since I've tried almost everything else jet related. Until now I've only made "fine tuning" adjustments with the air corrector. Tuning would be much easier if the car were street legal. I have an LM2 wideband datalogger but my only tuning opportunities are the autocross course (not ideal) and dyno. Luckily I have a friend that runs a dyno but even friend prices can add up! So, I like to queue up ideas/experiments for the next dyno trip, keep 'em coming if you have any thoughts! Thanks!
  11. Good resource, thanks!
  12. The build in '08 included brand new carbs and ignition. About the only thing I reused was my Cannon manifold. Leaning out the AFR so that the peak was above 14 still did not provide power all the way to redline although it did improve the dip/bog at the low end of the rpm range. The only other fuel related theory I could come up with was that the mains were somehow not coming on early enough and causing the lean area in the AFR graph. I thought about grossly reducing the air jets as an experiment to see if that would allow the mains to come on earlier and narrow that peak. If so, then I could move both the airs and mains down to get the average AFR in the right place. I believe I'm at 155/205 with 34mm venturis right now but I need to verify that. This dyno run above was made when I switched to the 34mm chokes so I don't remember exactly what jets I ended up on after tuning. Hard to believe that the mains are not coming on until almost 5000rpm though, anyone experienced anything like this?
  13. Completely agree that the AFR is the concern here but I don't know root cause. I've tried quite a few things over the last few years, float levels, fuel pressure, etc have been checked and rechecked. The AFR "step" is perplexing, are the rich ranges the anomaly or is the peak the anomaly? If I change jet sizes I can get the whole thing to move up but then the peak AFR is too lean. I need to smooth out the AFR curve...
  14. The race motor in the FP car has had some power band issues since it was built, it just doesn't want to rev much past 5500rpm with a significant drop in power at 5000rpm. I've checked or replaced almost everything external to the engine, gone through the carbs many times, and have even been through a rebuild. I'm now suspecting cam timing. The cam was timed originally in '08 by the engine builder (advanced a few degrees for autocross was my understanding) and I reused the original marks during my recent rebuild. I timed it during the rebuild just to make sure I got it on the right tooth but would like for someone to "check my work" and let me know if these measurements make sense or could be contributing to my issues. Cam card is here: http://www.typeischeap.com/cam_card.jpg Most recent dyno is here: http://www.typeischeap.com/RM2AFR.JPG http://www.typeischeap.com/RM2T.JPG A couple of things about the dyno curve that highlight the issue, 1) really great torque at 3000rpm, 2) "stepped" AFR that is rich (bog) at low rpms, steps up to a decent AFR for peak torque, then back to pig rich for the drop in power and brick wall... Cam timing (measured at .050 lift) is: Intake opens 23 BTDC Intake close 52 ABDC Exhaust opens 55 BBDC Exhaust close 18 ATDC This is the first time I've tried measuring cam timing so let me know if the numbers above do not look correct. Here's an old thread from the original build with more information about my setup (yes the bog is still there): http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/69511-mikuni-boggot-data-need-some-analysis/ A local autocrosser suggested it may be a bad coil pack but I would think that the AFR would go lean on a misfiring situation? Yes, it's a lot of fun on courses that keep me between 3000-5000rpms but that doesn't win autocrosses! Any other ideas? -Rick
  15. In the final stages before reassembly of my FP motor and had a few questions for the engine builder folks. Short story, this is a 13.5:1 autocross motor that started life in a GT2 car and was converted to autocross specs (different cam, wet sump) a couple of years ago after I bought it. JE pistons, Carillo rods, worked head, etc. More info and pics of that process on my website if yer interested. Anyway, the crank broke last August and fast forward to now, everything is back from the machine shop mostly ready for assembly (still have a list of to-dos like setting the ring gaps, etc). The block and crank were tossed and I had a stock F54 block bored and honed to match the JE pistons, new piston rings, new-used stock crank checked for straightness, micropolished journals, and balanced with clutch/flywheel. Head got a valve job and new valve guides. Everything else disassembled and cleaned. New Rebello damper to hopefully extend the life of this crank. This is personally my first rebuild ever but I've done almost everything else on an L6 over the past 10 years. I have read the "How to Rebuild" and "How to Modify" books and the FSM. And I still have questions! Goal is to have a reliable power plant that I can autocross for 5-7 years before a teardown. With no oil leaks! Here goes: 1. I'm running a 3/4 NPT to AN hose to an external breather off of the crankcase breather outlet. Do I still need the "mesh" inside the block? Would just running the sheet metal baffle be sufficient for this setup? 2. The JE piston instructions show the ring gap aligned to the thrust face of the cylinder bore for one of the rings and then the other 180 degrees out. I was planning instead to use the standard L6 orientation described in the books referenced above. Opinions? 3. Recommended method for securing/sealing the NPT plugs in the oil galleys (or is it gallery? seen both used)? Books mention "epoxy" but no particular type (old books obviously). Some posts have mentioned loctite, is that sufficient? Or do I need a specific epoxy? 4. I'm trying to avoid RTV this round. I've used it in the past but would like to get away from it for anything touching oil. Planning on using Permatex 2A on all of the engine gaskets using the goop gasket, finger tight front cover/oil pan/etc., wait overnight and then torque to spec process. Any other recommendations? I have the AZcar competition oil pan and MSA competition gasket. 5. Final wipe down of bearing caps/races before installing bearings, should this be "wipe all traces of oil off the cap and back of the bearing using solvent" or "wipe down but leave a film of fresh oil on these surfaces"? This is pertaining to the bare metal on the caps/races, obviously the face of the bearings and bearing journals will get oil/prelube on assembly. Thanks in advance for any help. I know some of this stuff is general knowledge out there. Any other tips also appreciated. -Rick
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