Phenomenon

Problem is then i have to tear the trans apart as it has the electronic gear not the tooth gera for driving an output. For now i'll just stick with my GPS as a speedo...lol

I set up a time to go see it, i'll take some under hood pics.

Found this for sale... is it worth it? 1981 280zx 350v8 car

Finally got my 350 / 700r4 swapped into my 81 280zx and it runs great. Tach is all hooked up and working too. What are you guys doing to run the factory speedo with the 700r4 trans that has the elctronic output? I thought about going with an aftermarket gauge but with the circuit board on the back of this cluster it won't work without rewiring a ton of stuff.

I took it to Nissan... they cannot find the issue. They told me in writing "there appears to be no distinct error in the injection system or electrical system" Waste of $150 Why is there this need to be a smart ass on this forum... i'm a first time Z owner just looking for help.

The stock electric pump puts out about 50psi if i max it out... the regulator is adjustable from 1psi to 100psi and has a gauge on it (tested it and it will go down to about 1.5psi). I would assume that like most carbs they do best around 5-8psi.

I have the FSM and all other documents i can get for this car, tested everything, cleaned everything and still it has the same problem... super rich once warm or after WOT. My next best guess is that the ECU is bad (i know the car has a few water leaks and may have fried it).

I did try to search but i keep getting this error "One or all of your search keywords were below 3 characters or you searched for words which are not allowed, such as 'html', 'img', etc, please increase the length of these search keywords or choose different keywords" I tried "switching to carbs" "carb swap" "efi to carb" "fi to carb" "converting to carb" etc etc. I'm assuming the carbed intake will bolt right on and i will have to switch the dist. As for fuel pressure i have an adjustable FPR so thats no problem.

Ok so i have an 81 280zx which has a major fault in the fuel injection somewhere and i cannot figure out where. I also have a 73 240z that has twin carbs. Will the intake and carbs "fit & function" on the L28 engine? As far as I understand the blocks are the same, the 2.8L is just a bored out 2.4. Thanks, Gordon

I tried searching for "bad o2" "faulty o2" but i can't find the answers i'm after. Would a bad O2 sensor cause the car to run stupidly rich and bog out? Fuel pressure varies from 30-40psi from idle to wot. I just cannot figure out what this engines issue is and it just started doing this about 2 weeks ago. It's not even driveable right now it bogs so badly.

Checked everything... even the afm door/flapper thing. The only thing i can think is that "maybe" the fpr is randomly getting stuck thus allowing full fuel pressure to the injectors all the time. I would guess that that would make the car run like crap.

Ok so i have done as everyone said to do.... Fuel pressure is A-ok Vacuum is A-ok Sensors test A-ok I did however figure out this ONLY happens after running the engine wide open... I took a vid so you guys can hear what its doing. "sometimes" just shutting it off and restarting it fixes it but usually it has to cool down for an hour and then its fine again until you run it WOT. Any ideas? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POM4mAKVpUg

I was thinking after i clean the terminals and give them a pinch to make them a bit tighter i'd put dielectric grease on them to keep the crap out. The product you mentioned... can't find it anywhere here. (hick town alberta, canada) lol

I diddled around with the connectors and it seems they are all bad. Each and everyone is caked with crud on the connectors themselves. Tomorrow i'll take them off 1 by 1 and clean them up. Do you recommend di-electric grease on them?

I'm not new to engines by any means... just new to datsuns/nissans. I just dropped a vortec 350 into my 95 Safari minivan just because i can. 100% custom wiring by me. I did do as you said and had the battery tested... 100% also had the alt checked... also 100%. Pop the oil cap off and the idle drops so vac is all good... going to put a meter on it anyhow tonight. I'm thinking the CHTS is likely the culprit as you suggested... now i just have to "try" and find a new one... no one has parts for this car here... not even a listing. Fuel pump, filter and all rubber hoses have been replaced already so they "should" be fine. Worst case scenario i have a chevy 350 here and a turbo 350 trans that i can drop in the car... then i know for sure what i'm doing as i built the engine myself. Thanks, Gordon