GrayZee

Well I've done plenty of custom wiring and played around with standalones enough that I am definitely not scared of computers. However if you are dealing with codes that only the dealer has access to you are up the creek without a paddle. It is also hardly worth it to spend thousands of dollars on a scanner that comes with a limited amount of keys and likely needs a update every time you want to look at another make. Or better yet becomes obsolete before you had a chance to use it a dozen times. This whole prospect of this new direction cars are taking makes me a sad panda....

Howdy all, I havent posted here in ages. I still have my Z but its been parked for a few years now. Kinda lost interest and got into other things. Hopefully interest will come back as it has in the past. Anyway, that's not why I am here. I wanted to get a honest answer about the course modern engine/vehicle control systems have taken over the years. I understand automotive wiring and EMS systems quite well but I have very little experience with stock systems past the 1990's. Recently I bought a 2003 Dodge Dakota with a blown 3.9 V6 and I was having a hard time finding a replacement so I opted to drop in a 5.2 because they bolt right in. (same mounts, same exhaust, same bell housing) Sounds easy enough right? WRONG! I knew I would have to swap out the PCM for a V8 one. Research told me that I needed one from the EXACT same year and it had to be a Dakota, NOT a Durango or a Ram. Ok, I lucked out and scored a PCM from a 03 Dakota 5.9 for $50 (there is no 5.2 in a 03) I added two pinouts for the extra two injectors and it fired right up, then died a second later with the security light blinking. From the research I did I kinda figured this would happen. These vehicles have the PCM coded to the vehicle and if the VIN numbers and mileage dont match you're hooped. Only the dealer has the ability to reprogram the VIN numbers. Having no choice I towed the truck to the dealer on my flatdeck trailer. I asked to get it reflashed on the trailer because it sounded a whole lot easier than unloading a truck that won't run. I got the flash done and the truck ran with no CEL's or security light, both transponder keys were working I was quite happy. I towed it back home and unloaded it, after the tires started to spin the ABS light started flashing. Turns out the axle ratio and tire sizes have to be programed in too or the ABS module will get a error. Back to the stealership.... they wanted to charge me twice but after some bitching they did it for no extra cost. I was happy again... until... Backing up a bit it turned out the 5.2 I got was in rougher shape than I had hoped and decided to do a complete rebuild before the initial install, obviously I removed the distributor so once it was up and running again I knew I would have to set the timing properly. I went online to find out how to put the PCM into diagnostic mode to set the base timing. Turns out the base timing is set in stone when you put the ring gear on. The adjustment on the dizzy however does effect the fuel injection sync. The method of doing this is to put is on a scanner (and not a cheap one) What does this mean? FFS! back to the freaking stealership again??? I have never seen a vehicle that makes you so dependent on going back to the dealership! It has certainly turned me right off from Dodge. My question is... I don't have much experience with newer cars so is this just a Dodge thing or are the all like that now? If it's only Dodge I am guessing its because of the time they spend in bed with Mercedes. I know German vehicles have computer control in every aspect of the vehicle. Can I expect to see this kind of crap in say a 05-10 Toyota, Honda or Nissan? The reason I am asking here is because I don't really want the opinion of Dodge fanboys on a Dodge forum. Thanks for any replies.

I think you are mistaken, it is a VE cas, the z32 has a larger sqaure-ish plug like a old AFM plug. IMO the VE cas is a easier mod because the plug is smaller and requires less cutting of the L28et dizzy housing. The cas wheel is identical to to a z32 and provides the same signal. I have one that is similar and is copied from looking at Bernard's.. LOL Mine is slightly different, but works the same. I have 350z coils with a aluminum bracket that bolts to the valve cover and allows for a mounting point to hold the coils up. I think it is a pretty clean looking setup.

With the z31, the turbo/n/a ecu/harness is the same thing. The tune in the ecu will be different but if you are using Nistune that will not matter. Some useful reading would be Drax's sticky post out turbo swaps (there is some wiring info there) Also Afshin's z31 maf swap post (it will explain the differences from the l28et to z31 wiring (which is almost the same) You can also find a FSM here.. nicoclub.com/FSM

I used a turbo that was considered completely trashed once. The impeller was hitting the comp housing and grinding the vanes. I cleaned the rough edges off of the impeller using a dremel. When I was done it worked just fine. If I were you I would polish out the marks on the housing and get a new impeller. Hell, you could probably run the impeller as is, but I bet you would lose a bit of performance seeing some of it is actually broken off.

I have 360whp, no dyno sheet but I consider trap speeds vs actual weight to be a more acurate dyno. My engine is a bone stock 83 L28et with Holset hy35 and upgraded Nissan electronics. I have been in Bernard's car, even driven it and it has alot more jam than my car does and it is heavier with a auto tapping more HP. I imagine if I used his larger turbo I could get up to 400 pretty easy. I don't think anyone ever mentioned NOT using a intercooler, isn't it practically implied if you are boosting for that kind of power, same way you pretty much NEED a wideband? I have a intercooler and Bernard has a massive one as well as meth injection. I am not sure where the limits of the stock engines are, it seems someone always manages to push it a little harder every year, but for now 400 is doable.

There might be differences from Holset to Holset but the threads on my oil feed was a very oddball 11mm. Same thread pitch as the stock L28et banjo bolt but Nissan used a 12mm. This left me with two options, tap the turbo out to 12mm or modify the banjo bolt. I ended up getting the bolt turned down enough for get a 11mm die on it. Worked out great, but of course I had to order the die cuz nobody had one of those.

He makes a good point. Also I do not understand why they are sending it to the wrong state in the first place? My guess is that TN is what it says on your paypal address. Lots of places will only send to the address that shows on paypal (to protect you as well as themselves from fraud) You may have reasons for having a TN address I have no idea but you can add a second address to your paypal account. Perhaps what I am saying does not apply in this case.. just throwing that out there.

I was thinking about making a tool that would be like a thread adapter with two female ends. One would thread on to the pin and the other to a slide hammer. You could then pull them from the rear while still in the car. How do you guys think that would work?

Yes, I was thinking this too, unless you are very used to fast cars a 350hp Z will likely freak you right out.

Unless you are chipping it, I would not expect alot of gain on a dyno. However you would likely get some more low end torque. The difference in the throttle response and drivability is unbelievable. The old AFM will seem like such a piece of sh** afterwards.

If you wanted say 350hp, then I would tell you a L28 would be cheaper. 500 is a tall order for a L28, and not reliable at all.. However alot of improvements can be done on a RB but none of them are cheap. In fact.. 500hp isn't cheap any way you slice it.

They are located in the land "down under" I believe that you could use a z32 ecu instead of a RB one, don't know about the RB ecu but the z32 does not HAVE to have a daughterboard installed. You can connect it to a moates romulator directly. However you will still need the eprom chip removed and replaced with a empty socket. Using a z32 ecu may require some minor wiring pinout changes.

Perhaps you are only getting enough fuel to wet the injectors, when the the load increases the engine dies.. just a thought..

Why do I get the feeling that that line will show up in the next Fast and Furious movie?

Take it completely apart and sandblast it, then ceramic coat it.

I see it is your first post, welcome to the forum. I will warn you, asking questions on here without searching for your answer first is very much frowned apon. Do a search, you will find the answer, I know this because I just answered it a week ago.

Are they not very similar to a ones on a 280zx?

Their guts are almost identical. Sensors can be swapped back and forth, but unfortunatly the mount, spindle input shaft and dizzy cap are very different.

I have pondered that idea. Here is what I have learned... The z31 dizzy cap routes the spark plug wires out the side. Some of your wires are gonna end up hitting the thermostat housing and seriously limit your ability to clock the dizzy for timing purposes. A better option might be a dizzy from a 90+ Pathfinder or truck. Anything can be done I suppose but honestly I wouldn't even consider it unless you have some serious fabrication skill as well as tools for the job. Better to pay top dollar for a 82/83 zxt dizzy.

The 280zx n/a dizzy can run independent.

How much power do you plan on making? Stock L28 rods are very strong. I've seen 400+hp

I know the color changes, pin8 is g/y and pin17 is g/b not white and green. Sometimes knowing where the wire ultimatly goes is useful. This is why I said I'm not 100%, I was hoping someone could confirm it so that we could have it archived. I have seen this question come up several times, I thought the pic was great and just thought we could add to it to have complete info on the subject. btw, I have made the mistake of crossing the white and green wires. It did not hurt anything, the only result is that the car would not start. After correcting the problem it fired right up.

Yeah, I find one of the easiest ways is to use a dremel with a cutting wheel. Grind a notch so you can fit a flat screwdriver in there and turn it out. Once you have the lock out, take it to a locksmith. They will be able to fix it up with a new key at a very resonable price. Recently I had to do one on a Honda Accord and I read in the FSM that you had to drop the steering column ect.. PITA, then I found this video on youtube that really saved me a ton of time! It might work on a Z too?

I would just fix the problem at hand, my experience is that the top end goes long before the bottom end does. Besides, how much do you stand to lose if something goes wrong in the near future? A few hours of your time and a head gasket. Sounds better to me than spending alot more time and money on rebuilding a whole engine that probably didnt need it in the first place.