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Boy from Oz

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Boy from Oz last won the day on November 18 2014

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  1. 250 GTO Owners Thread

    Willie. That's pretty much the donor I used except it was an Aussie version. Give some thought to: Using the GM radiator and thermo fans but mounting them forward of the Datsun radiator support. Cutting the sprout off the thermostat housing and re-welding at an angle to suit any radiator relocation. Using the alternator from F1 body car (?), Firebird I think, to clear the new engine mount - if you are using JCI mounts. Engine mounts, exhaust and steering shaft have to be created together otherwise you'll have interference issues. In the same vein, buy off-the-shelf mounts, it ain't as easy as it looks to make your own, then have space for exhaust and steering shaft. Incorporate the gearbox cross-member mounts into the new frame rails - much better that mounting through the floor. For access reasons replace the clutch hard line with a flexible one and add an extended flexible bleed line running up the firewall. Also swap the electrical fitting on the reverse light sender for a 900 one from a Mustang fitted with a t56. I used the GM in-tank fuel pump. I machined an aluminium adaptor for the pump to fit into a bespoke aluminium fuel tank, though I believe these adaptors can now be purchased. I used the DBW throttle. Fairly simple to mount. I even retained the cruise control. I mounted all the electrical components above the passengers feet. I fitted the GM LSD diff as well and can give you some templates of the brackets I made. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69682-gm-lsd-irs-diff-in-s30-fits-like-a-glove/ I used the GM tailshaft (shortened) with a rubber coupling on each end That was because the JCI mounts position the engine 25mm off-centre which also happen to be the off=set of the pinion at the diff. This creates a straight line from the t56 output to the diff input. I used the GM brake booster and master cylinder. I also used the GM clutch master cylinder but I had to off-set it 40mm (?) to clear the booster. There really isn't much, if anything, different about installing an LSx/t56 in a 250 GTO that's different from installing in any other S30 Datsun.
  2. 250 GTO Owners Thread

    Following on from the movie http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50042-250-gto-owners-thread/?p=1182927 I've put together a book about the build. I just started out keeping notes for myself and any future owners about what went into the build for later maintenance and repair. Friends wanted to know how it was progressing so the notes morphed in quarterly journal entries. Someone suggested I compile it into a photo-book and as it turned out I think it gives added provenance to the car. Just a thought for those undertaking builds.
  3. Drivetrain vibrations while accelerating - Ideas?

    True. Have you seen this video? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125670-yikes-movement-in-moustache-bar-mounts/
  4. 250 GTO Owners Thread

    Nice work Bob. 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k57CAKzcHhE 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2N2aYB5kqs 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-WQi8Wn6TQ 4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VshV-7gooAk 5 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTy16arpHK0 6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppKBmMHKUhA 7 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6eR9LZ1lTo
  5. Brainstorming for V12 project

    The engine (choice) is not so much an issue when installing a V12 is an S30, as is the transmission. There is A LOT of work, and lost cabin/dash space, modifying the firewall and enlarging the transmission tunnel.
  6. Drivetrain vibrations while accelerating - Ideas?

    I had a somewhat similar issue except that the vibration/knocking occurred when I backed-off after hard acceleration. I rebuild new CV shafts and replaced the brand new CVs with used units - still had the problem. I swapped the diff for another - still it was there. I did notice there was a pulsing back through the brake pedal at the same time but I couldn't understand how that could relate to the cause of the issue so regarded it as a consequence. Eventually I had the car raised on a hoist and the suspension supported with the wheels removed. I sat in the car while others watched underneath. I tried for about 10 minutes to recreate the vibration/knocking but it became harder and harder to detect. We eventually gave up when the smell of the brakes, from constant application and no air flow, became overpowering. When we refitted the wheels and drove home there was no vibration/knocking and there hasn't been since. We surmised it was the brake pads not being bedded-in sufficiently and that had be achieved, albeit inadvertently, when the car was on the hoist. The fact that the issue was, apparently, the pads but only occurred when the car was accelerated hard (not braking) completely threw me. I don't offer these comments as a solution to your problem but as a suggestion you also consider the brakes as a possible culprit.
  7. Seat Cover Identification

    Look like a set I purchased from this site. Great quality - really pleased. http://interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/product_detail/41
  8. There is a thread on HybridZ with a lot of GTO builds and information. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50042-250-gto-owners-thread/ I've sent a PM as well.
  9. Congratulations. I know the feeling:
  10. 250 GTO Owners Thread

  11. 250 GTO Owners Thread

    Took mine for a run yesterday
  12. Show your steering wheel .

    A Nardi Anni 60 in a GTO kitted S30.
  13. 250 GTO Owners Thread

    That's a tonne in my neck of the woods. No worries Lee. I'm not sure this is the forum if you're looking for top-end buyers, it's more populated buy DIY builder/owners. However, to that end I wonder if you have any photos of how you transformed the 'hatch' kit to a 'fixed window / trunk lid' arrangement. I'm sure there would be some interest in seeing that. PM me if you still have difficulties posting photos.
  14. 250 GTO Owners Thread

    It appears my comment on the Non-Tech forum that Lee engage the services of someone under 14 to sort out his posting issues was not seen with the humourous intent with which it was posted. To make amends, here is what I believe Lee is trying to post. -------------- It started as an original Alpha factory built, so the basic kit was done correctly with great fit and finish. Over time, the car has evolved to the level it is today....there are so many upgrades only images can do it justice. Engine is a pro built 280Z and has a reliable 300HP Starting at the front: -Brake cooling hoses to front brakes -Original style CIBI? driving lights -Heavy duty radiator -Maserati Air horns -Electric cooling fan -Koni shocks -3.1 liter displacement -diesel crank -Balanced and blueprinted -Overbore pistons -Free flow headers -Early model head, ported and polished -3/4 race cam -3 dual throat Webbers with velocity stacks -5 speed close ratio gearbox -Battery relocated to rear -Functional side vents -Hood pins and scoops -Modified cowling with fresh air ducting -15X6? inch Dayton Borranis W/Dunlop tires -Talbot vintage mirror -Ferrari style dash with functional toggle switches -Kill switch and starter button -Genuine Nardi wheel with Ferrari horn button -Correct style shifter gate,lever and shifter ball -Leather racing seats with competition belts and harness -Roll bar and fire extinguisher -Correct door buttons -Modified window frames with curved edges -Plexiglas rear window with correct vent -15X7 inch? rear Dayton Borranis -Correct rear trunk fabricated from metal -Competition gas filler -NASCAR fuel cell mounted in a aluminum rived fuel tank -Glorious sounding 4 tip exhaust -Donor car is a very solid 1978 280Z