KetchupNinja

Looking for a BCDD valve for my 78 280z. The hook up wire broke off on mine and it doesn't look like I can fix it. Post here or PM me with a price, thanks!

I'm trying to find out what this piece is so I can replace it. The wire that connects to it came off and it doesn't look like I can solder back on.

What are some of the known blower motor upgrades that have been done? I know of the Honda civic/crx one but I've heard the output isn't really that much of an upgrade over the stock system. It's going to be 100+ over where I'm at so I need something that's gonna do a better job.

Just replaced the AFM and it works like a champ! Thanks everyone

Thanks for the replies everyone. I got a bit of electrical cleaner and unplugged all the connectors to the injectors, TPS, CSV, AFM, and just about any connections I can find and cleaned them out. I did pull off the oil cap and it ran worse, which in this case is good as roger had said. I drove it around maybe a mile or so and I haven't ran across the symptoms mentioned before. I'll have to drive it a bit and keep checking. I did download the FSM and Injection bible, so I'll give those a read and check back.

Hello all, I'm having a few problems with my Z. It's a stock l28 with a K&N intake from MSA and a 2 1/4 Flowmaster 40 exhaust. I wanted to ask for some advice before I started blowing tons of money for replacement parts. Here's a little back story with this particular Z: Got the car a little over a year ago, it was running fine but I noticed that in lower rpm's it would kinda stutter. I decided to buy a fuel system cleaner but little did I know that this would cause a whole world of trouble for me. After driving it around the car died, didn't stall or anything, it just kinda shut off and rolled on. I had trouble starting it for the longest time and when I did, it would soon shut off after. I replaced the fuel filter thinking the fuel system cleaner was doing an awesome job of cleaning everything. The filter was dirty of course, and I thought I had found the source of my problems but it didn't really get any better. At this point, I took it to shop to get it repaired. The shop had the car a little over a month. They changed the spark plugs with NGK's the car still wouldn't start. They thought it was the ECU because the injectors would stay open, flooding the engine. Instead of fixing the actual problem though, they did find other things to fix such as replacing the rear output shaft seal, coolant temperature sensor, clutch slave cylinder, oil pan and valve cover gasket, and the oil filter. I took the car home and ended up dieing on the road twice, not being able to turn the car back on unless I waited about 15 mins or so. I then took the Z to a different shop and described the problem to them. After a few days they called to tell me that there wasn't anything they could find that was wrong with it. I was really scratching my head and drove over to meet them. It turns out, the car would start up all the time with no problems and they actually drove the car for 108 miles total without it dieing on them. I was happy as hell, I took the car home and started driving it daily. It didn't take long before a new problem showed up. I'm noticing that the acceleration was really bad unless I floor it. I seem to be getting stutters or something, the exhaust will make a small pop noise from time to time. At a light, I floored the gas pedal and maybe moved about 10 feet and then the car started to rev up really damn high. I checked out the fuel pressure recently and it seemed to be pretty normal: 38 psi at idle and 30-33 psi while pressing the gas pedal. The battery checked out okay too, getting a reading of 12+ volts. I'm kinda stumped now, the only thing I could think of now is a new ECU or a new AFM, anyone else agree? Edit: Sorry keep getting AFM and MAF mixed together lol.

The problem started when I added a Gumout fuel system cleaner to the tank. I followed the directions carefully and added it to a near empty tank and then filled her all the way up. I parked the car and after a few hours and tried to start it up with no success. I thought the fuel filter/fuel pump/injectors may have been clogged. The fuel pump and injectors were okay but the fuel filter had some gunk in it so I replaced it. Car started up fine but shuts off about 2 or 3 minutes later. Anyone else experience this situation? This is a 1978 280z stock L28e.

Well, I looked at the 240z. The body is almost rust free and the interior looks great. The only problem is, the owner took the engine out. He's selling the the car plus 2 motors with it, The stock L20 and a L28et with turbo. He's asking $2000 for it. The second one I looked at was the 280z, this one has the stock L28, new tires and again, very little rust. This one is asking $2700 for it.

Thanks for the tips guys. I am going to check both of them out today and we'll see what I end up with. And of course fun to drive always sounds better to me as well Zmanco .

Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a dilemma here. I'm interested in buying a Z but I also want to have AC in it. I've got 2 choices, there is a 1971 240z with turbo going for 2,000 with no AC and a stock 280z with the AC factory installed going for 2,500. The main issue is that If I were to get the 280z, I would want to get 240z bumpers and turn signals (don't like the location of the 280z signals). What would be the most effective choice here?