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HybridZ

dippowit-z-

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Everything posted by dippowit-z-

  1. Thanks Johnc. Do you happen to have a pic that you can send? I have been staring at this crossmember for ages and can't seem to come up with anything that I like for a strap.
  2. I'm not sure if that is the right term. It was recommended to me by my engine builder to install a torque strap to the driver side of engine to front crossmember in case the motor mount breaks. I have searched hybridz and have not seen any post regarding this matter. Does anyone have any input or pics of such a strap? Any replies much appreciated.
  3. In my last post I mentioned making a second bracket that attaches to the top mounting holes in the pedal assembly and bolts to stock tabs that the original pedal assembly mounted to. You can actually see the tabs directly above the master cylinders in the picture. I am choosing not to attach it to the rollcage. But you are correct, it is very flimsy at this point only being mounted to the firewall.
  4. I removed the collapsible section of the steering column and welded in a flat section in order to bring the brake pedal closer to the gas pedal as stock. The clutch pedal in turn is perfectly centered to stock location. I then mounted the foot pedal section as far right as possible. With the full cage I am guessing that if I ever need the steering column to collapse during an accident I have bigger problems. I actually did this mod years ago along with a very primitive pedal assembly mounting system. After revisiting the project years later I decided to redo the mount. I am glad that I did because I had the pedal assembly way too far forward. Not to mention the older I get the more patient I become. I am happy with the mount so hopefully it works well. Now I have to make a bracket to attach the top of the pedal assembly to the stock upper location.
  5. Thanks for the replies. I built a mounting system that best matches the stock pedal location as it worked just fine for me. The pivot point is 2.5 in. away from firewall and center line came very close to stock location. I will try to attach some pics of the process. I will need to do some practicing before I weld them.
  6. Hello everyone I am currently installing a willwood brake pedal assembly in my 240. I did not get much info from willwood when I called except that the pivot point for the pedals must be a min. of 2" from the firewall. They said that pedal location should be determined by personal preference. I am shooting for matching pedal location to the stock pedal location. Has anyone done installed this pedal assemby? I would appreciate any advice. Thank you
  7. RIP peace Ross, I am so sorry to hear about your passing. You were a great help to me years ago. You sold and stood by a fantastic product. I will run your parts on my car with pride.
  8. Thank you!!. It was a 1990 non turbo 300zx.
  9. Hello! I am in the early stages of reassembly of my 1970 240z. My engine builder REBELLO RACING has provided me with a 3.2 turbo L series. One available option for me to integrate into this build is a traction control option. I was instructed that I need to install a ring and sensor of some sort on the drive axles so that the rear wheel rotation can be read and sent to the computer. I currently have a short nose r200 from a z31 installed in my car thanks to ARIZONA ZCAR. This diff comes stock with sensors built into the diff cover and rings that are mounted inboard of the 5 bolt flange on either side of the diff. These are the Electro-Anti-Lock sensors that are used for the anti lock braking system on a z31. I would like to use these sensors for the traction control option on my new motor. Does anyone have experience doing this exact modification or does anyone see any reason why this cannot be done? KennyD
  10. Anyone use the stock EAL sensors on a shortnose r200 for a traction control option?
  11. Not garbage, for sale!! (I am not trying to sell it now on this forum) I have removed the entire system from the car. I will not be using it for anything but a template. I think that the lighting system is the most difficult part of the rewiring. The charging system is only 5 wires or so and easy to duplicate. My steering column will not have blinkers, starter key, light switch etc. I plan to operate the car with a tasteful line up of toggles. With the exception of blinkers, this can be done. I even had the blinkers on a toggle on my 510. I also had 50 toggle switches on the dash. I would like to reduce that amount to 5 or so. Since the car never leaves my sight, there is no need for a security system like a key or steering wheel lock. I will use the light switch from my 510 for my z since it can be mounted on the dash. Thanks for the reply
  12. Hello!! I am saving this post as inspiration for what I would like my car to look like when it is finished. Good taste!
  13. Hello out there, I have decided to ditch the stock electrical system in my 240. I am in the process of building the car around my REBELLO 3.2 FI Turbo. I was having trouble with the old system when I took it off the road for the rebuild. I did this to my 510 long ago when I was a youngster. I used a fuse panel from the auto parts store and it seemed to work good. The only problem that I had with the system was that I did not ground it sufficiently. After taking a friends advise (A. Briltz), I added grounding points to the unibody and enlarged some of the ground wires. After doing this, I had not one problem for the time that I owned the car. Another thing that I did was wiring the headlights with no relay. I am not sure how they worked, but they did. With no problems. This time around, I will be purchasing all new led light sockets and headlamps. Along with a new voltage reg and starter from Nissan, and new autometer gauges. These components will be the hub for me to wire the car. The main question that I am looking for an answer to is will the new updated fuse box from motorsport auto be sufficient for this system. I purchased it years ago to help with overheating fuses in the stock fuse box. I did the trick then and I would like to use it. The second question that I have is should I be picky about the wiring that I use. Is the run of mill auto electrical wire from the parts house acceptable or should I use a wire with a higher grade copper? Thanks for any input.... I am open to any suggestions or links to suppliers for electrical parts.
  14. I just wanted a wider scope of input than what he has told me. There are some brilliant people on this website, most of which are very touchy. I understand. I am guilty of asking for tech. info without searching, but opinions I shouldnt have to search for, should I? Maybe I am misunderstanding this website. I do enjoy looking for info here. Ken D
  15. I forgot to mention that he built me a 2300 for my 510, actually he rebuilt the motor several years after I bought the car. He built it for the previous owner and it was his 3rd 2300, sort of one of his proto types and it had 143 rwhp and 139 ft lbs. at the rear wheel. It was fun to say the least. Ken D
  16. flywheel HP of course, I understand what it would take for rwhp and its not worth the money for an old L series. Even if it would be possible for that matter. The motor that he would build for me would be complete. The next step would be his stroker 3.1 which is really expensive. Though you are right, 250+ hp is not cheap. I never said how much I would need to spend to get it. Is the n47 head and intake worth putting money into or would it be better to find a better combo? Thank you for your responses! Ken D
  17. Can you believe it! This car could be someones project. Being that I already have a 240 that is as perfect as37 years can be, I have only used parts off of it. Dont worry it wasnt anywhere near driveable. My car has a stock motor trans and the free car came with a n42 l28 block, n47 head, n47 intake (injected), and a borg warner 5spd. I think it is a t5. I have already put the tranny in my car to go along with the short nose r200 and cv swap but I dont know what to do for a motor. I spoke with an old friend who builds A LOT of Datsun motors out of antioch ca and he suggested to use the n42 block with n47 head, with a set of 47 su's. He said it would do 250-270hp. He built several 510 na motors for me that were very fun. I like the idea of carbs because I can trouble shoot carbed engines. I know that FE motors make more HP. The wiring harness that came with the intake looks not to bad. I just wanted to get some input from you guys. what do you think I should do? Ken D People still talk about my 510 and I dismantled and sold it over 12 years ago. I AM old school DATSUN.
  18. Modern-motorsports assured me that the end play and the c clip play are no problem. I will assemble the cv to the spec. listed above. Thank you for posting the info. I feel confident that my Z will one day be bada_ _ because of the internet and of course the fact that I AM old school Datsun. Beware:SACRLGE
  19. I mean the original machining on the stock cv center sections
  20. The center sections that I had mod motorsports make for me do not match the original machining. There is end play between the c clip and the ball retainer. Has anyone had any experience with this and their product. thanks Oh yeah, No Biting please.
  21. I went with the short nose r200 with 5 bolt flanges. I had Mod-Motosports make me flanges and center sections. what I am concerned with is the fact that there is end play where the c-sections are splined. It wouldnt matter which way I put the ball retainer in because there is at least 1/8-3/16 in of play between the c clip and the retainer. also the c clip isnt the best fit either .should I be concerned with this? Mod Motorsports should be a pretty reputable co. but 1100$ is a lot of cash to spend on potential garbage if these c sections are junk.
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