Gareth. J.

Just be aware MCA have had issues with shocks leaking gas, even on struts that sat unused!

Super quiet in operation, in terms of noise its no louder than the torsen I replaced and no clunking like other clutch LSDs I've had. No break in needed. The $ for the diff oil is expensive also!

Check the harness plugs under the dash and in the engine bay (there's a single plug under the dash near the fire wall penetration, large gauge wire white with red trace). I had a very similar issue with mine but got to it before it smoked. It was melting due to poor contact, this created more resistance and then pulled more current until the plug melted completely with part of the wire insulation was damaged also. Amp meter in the positive means something is pulling current/power, like lights on high beam, thermo fans etc. Mine used to flick intermittently and stay in the positive without any lights or fans running.

Are they FIA compliant or any other regulated testing? I'd want to know they were tested and certified in some way.

Mach OP-034 in my 240z

I ground down an old oil pump spindle for my recent build. I filled the oil pump before installing but I forgot to fill the oil filter, no big deal as it wasn't cranking. I then used a 1/4 socket on the end of a cordless drill in place of the dizzy and it primed in no time. A little crude I know but it did the job for me.

I have one from my LD28 but have never checked it properly on the car, It has the same external appearance as any L series gear reduction starter I have seen. Is there anyway to tell the power rating (Kw) on them?

Why don't you email Mori san at Kameari? I've done that with the Kameari items I have purchased. He's very willing to help

Does anyone know the valving specs for these Bilstein 34-050224 shown above? I'm also keen to hear people's thoughts on these adjustable ones from Kameari...

I figured the same thing, I was expecting high temps with the half fill but it hasn't happened... yet. I have Kameari oil temp, water temp and oil pressure gauges. So far on the street, hwy running and blasts through the hills running a 4.37diff, 0.833 5th gear, with 7k shifts the oil temp is steady as a rock at 82deg in 35deg ambient temps. No idea how that compares to a stock non filled block as the gauges were installed when the 3.1 half fill was dropped in. I'll definitely have a temp controlled cooler before I get back to the track. Track days are a whole other world of hurt.

I used 'hardblok' in my F54 3.1L engine for extra piece of mind, sonic tests showed my wall thickness was fine. Filled to the bottom of the water pump inlet, no temp issues at all with an LD28 water pump.

Very interesting info about the LD block wall thickness! I threw my block out without even checking it after reading about the small bores being unable to bored to 89mm Would be keen to see a build thread on your particular engine combo speedtripper.

For the fuel tee's could you use 'JB Weld' to permanently seal them into the carb bodies? Great progress, keep going!

Carb spacing looks good, will the sealant on the fuel tee's last? A fuel leak above the headers would be bad news. I made the manifold flange from 12mm ally plate to match the thickness of my stainless headers flange. It secures the same way as the factory setup. If you have trouble with different thickness flanges can you weld on extra strips of metal where the manifold nuts and washers need to go?

Are the fuel 'T' pieces the black plastic ones at he bottom of the carbs? I know Keihin stock different widths to suit different carb spacings perhaps Mikuni are the same? If not I'd look at switching each pair around and try fitting a fuel elbow on each carb, it will eliminate the risk of fuel leaks as the T pieces are only sealed with O rings..... Ask me how I know! Ha. They look in good condition, do they have accelerator pumps?

Tony would that member be 'ozconnection' ?

For the throttle linkage if the Mikuni's are anything like the FCR's there's a 12mm slot in the link that connects the slide to the internal arm on the throttle shaft. It gives you a generous amount of room for DIY drilling and tapping. Will you have any heat soak issues with a steel manifold? I'm looking forward to the updates, It sounds like your well planned so it should be an awesome setup!

I have six FCR41's Keihin flat slide carbs on my car, It's currently off the road while I build a 3.1 stroker. The 'rattle' from these at idle is very unique and the 'whistle' at part throttle is awesome! I used a 12mm aluminium plate laser cut to fit around the stainless headers, It then has 40mm I.D. aluminium tube TIG welded to match the spacing of the carbs. Doing it this way allowed me to keep the intake runners straighter than a regular side draft manifold and allow the carbs to sit a little higher up. As for linkages the FCR's run from the factory an 8mm shaft directly coupled to the slides with roller bearings in each carb, I would think the Mikuni's are very similar setup. All I did was make one long enough to go through all six and drill it to suit. It's a cable operated throttle to the gas peddle using factory FCR connections on the carbs. I don't know how to attach links here but I have a few videos on you tube of the setup. Look for 'riceburner46' The vids are with the old worked L28. I also have a build thread on 'Auszcar' titled 'the riceburner'. It has more info and pics.

How big was your crankshaft groove? Does the larger sleeve cause any issues with the flywheel? I've heard of people cutting some gasket paper and installing that before the rear main seal so it doesn't sit where the groove is.

I have run 'spool' (ebay) L28 rods for many years now and they've been faultless on track/road revving to 7,000rpm with cast oversize pistons. Lighter than OEM rods, Bushed for a full floating pin and fitted with ARP hardware. Much better value for your money than prepping the stock rods. IMO

Try searching on here for 'stuart Wilkins motorsport' I put some pics in an old thread called 'Aftermarket 280z front diff crossmember?' Sorry I cant seem to attach a link in here.

$460 IMO is too much, I am a Datsun owner after all. Hehe. I believe it's $380 if you ship them the crossmember. I guess if I had just bought this mount first up then I would have come out on top, but the car has changed a lot over a short time. On the other side I can't see it failing for a very very long time so, if you break it down over ten years it's not that much. I also ran the solid front mount and new urethane moustache bar rubbers. I did notice upon removal that it had deformed/mushroomed the bolt retaining hole

I now run the SW motorsport option on my R180. After repeated failures of my standard mount I went to the RT style mount but had vibration issues on track. I then switched to the SWM item, it's way over priced but is bullet proof, problem solved for good! It is cheaper if you provide a core but not by much.

When it comes time to re-surface my spare rockers, can I use the LD28 set I have? At first glance they look the same, I figure they 'should' be in better condition due to lower RPM and diesel oil.

We had a chap pull apart a set of brand new Wolf Creek CV's pulled apart down here, the shaft splines had been punched/deformed to tighten up the play in them.