J__

i have the same problem with the tokico setup. although mine is no where near 3-4' of play. its about 1/4 inch free play when the car is jacked up. something is wrong with yours if ur havein 3-4 inch play.

i checked my wheel bearing and there is no play. it could be the warped rotor. because my previous rotors were warped pretty severely. however since i put in new rotors and retightened the wheel bearings, it still occurs but not to such great extent. maybe the new ones r uneven =( thnx got the info, i'll read over the page. is that the only possible cause that can cause such symptoms? thnx

im running the 4runner calipers/300zx vented rotor fronts and 240sx rear calipers with 300zx rotors in the back. have the larger master cylinder, stainless lines in front but rubber ones in the back. the brakes feel very solid and pedal through is hard as a rock and engages after about 1 inch. however after a long cruise on the highway (lets say maintaining throttle at 120km/h), the first time i step on the brakes the pedal through is extremely long and "spongy". feels just like when the brakes overheat from a hard lap around the track. however after a few pumps, the pedal goes back to its rock hard feel. i dont think the brakes/fluid would over heat since no brakes were used during that 'cruise'. the only possibility i can think of is the heat from the headers is heating up the brake resevoir... i do have a heat shield there however. what other things can cause this? anyone have the same symptoms? tia

they do clear the 4x4 brakes but hoever mine rubbed SLIGHT on the calipers. i had to take file to the caliper to thin out one of hte edges a few mm's to get it to not rub

daaayaaam! u can rally with ur car now. very well done

ok took the car to the track for the first time at pacific raceway. it rubs lol on turn 2 the wheel well dug a groove in the tire lol. but then again i didnt cut the origin lip when i installed the zg flares. i need to do that next lol.

no rubbing

i got the 'pro series' when i called bill, i told him i wanted a set for street and occasional track/ autox and was thinking of the avenger series. he said that it was too light and would be destroyed if i went over a pot hole, welds crack or something and recommended the pro series which is 5 lbs heavier but is suitable for street use. the 'race' series wheels run from 13-15lbs each i believe, the pro series r 18lbs each. i havent weighed them with the tires mounted however. yea i knw i see the rust in the centers and cringed haha oh and i like the stretched look. like donuts

some diamond racing 15x10. great company! highly recommend it. cheap well built rims! after 3 months wait (because the chrome shop took forever on the chroming for the centers) i finally decided to just get the raw steel centers and powdercoat them. the rims were then made and shipped the next day. here they are now i just need some coilovers to replace these tokico springs

wow... this thread still goin haha

my 5th gear went in my old tranny so my mechanic put in a new one for me. same 5 speed but the gear ratio seems ALOT longer than my old one, especially 5th... the tranny he said was rebuilt by him 7 years ago and never been used, he also put in an used buy almost new clutch for me since mine was like a trombone and roughened my flywheel. anyway, 2 problems i found after the swap 1. there's a a mild rattling noise when i am in neutral with the foot off the clutch. almost a very very mild grinding noise. and it happens too when i put the car into gear at standstill. the noise is gone under normal driving conditions. 2. when im goin at a good speed/rpm and downshift from 5th > 4th, its hard and makes a "clunk" when i put it into 4th gear and i can feel it in the stick. almost like trying to force it into 1st gear from 2nd at 30mph. this happends everytime when i go approx 120km/h at over 3000rpm in 5th into 4th. i rev match, double clutch. and nothing helps still clunkeds into 4th at over a certain speed.. is it a syncro? if it was, wouldnt this not happen if i double clutch? i read up on some other tranny threads with hard shifting and some ppl recommend throwing in some redline fluid in there to slip things up a bit. what fluids do u guys recommend? thank you!

has anyone had any experience with these little gadgets? it puts a charge on the car so rust wont oxidize and form. do these work? http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672466&bmUID=1165303090935&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443292139&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true

i'll get him to try the atf or parts cleaner, i'll let him knw what you guys mentioned and he can decide if he wants to do that or not because of the consequences. apparently even new factory weatherstripping will leak. its a common problem on those mr2's. a few ppl bought the car new from the dealer back in the days and it already leaked..... they took it back and had the rubber changed under warranty and it STILL leaked.... i guess it's one of those things that's like a gamble. sometimes it works, other times it wont. i told him to just stick a few thing pieces of rubber in the gap for the winter and take em out for the summer, lol. the previous owner to that car just siliconed the leaky area. thnx for all the imput guys!

for my firend's mr2 ttop. the weatherstripping isnt 'bad' like how they turn on our old Z cars. it was a bit tough when he bought the car and leaks. so he rubbed some vaseline on it and it became very soft and stopped leaking for a bit, but when it rains heavily, the car still leaks. is there any products out there or tricks to renew worn weatherstripping? its $150 each side for those from dealer, but he doesnt wanna spend $300 on 2 weatherstripping. tia!!

lol this thing's sweet! http://media.putfile.com/Nissan-v8-Twin-turbo

yea its only 13" =( but some of the 5lug guys might luck out hehe

can anyone post the dimension for thet wheels that'll fit 280z with zg flares? im not too sure how the way they measure offset works... is that X" backspacing? or X" +/- offset? and whats our bolt pattern? 4x114.3, so 4 1/2?

my buddy sent me this link. its called aerorace wheels? they're blowing out their overstock ones... $30 a wheel!!!!! pretty much like diamond racing wheels. i dunno how strong and long they'll last on everyday driving.... but for $30 a pop? order a few sets, thats cheaper than brake pads!!!! heres the link. im thinking of getting a set myself for track and sell my current enkeis http://www.aeroracewheel.com/overstock.asp

holly crap! that looks awesome! ... but do u NEED that much braking power in teh back...?

total cost was $70 cad. for both covers lol. but thats cuz i got them made in china. gave my dad the old sparco covers that i ripped off one of the seat (drove around for 4 months on the frame and foam...) then he went to an automotive seat upholster in china. bargained them down to $70 to make a pair of leather ones. brought it back and installed myself. otherwise from the upholsters here, it would be $700cad for custom leather ones made from scratch like these.....

so i got a good source to get custom leather seat covers made. decided to rip off an old sparco sprint cover and send it to them to use as a template for some nice leather ones since the used sparcos i bought was in pretty bad condition and i wanted leather ones anyway =P. we'll they've been sitting in my living room for a month now and its time to put them on tools: new leather seat cover pulled over the seat frame (sorry didnt take a picture of the frame, and too lazy to take off the cover once i did have it on): old seat cover: hole punching the bottom with a paper hole punching (try punching through 2 layers of leather 40 times.... i can barely move my fingers now): clamping on a metal welting so the leather wont rip: zap strapping the cover to the frame to pull it tight: finished the strapping: cutting the holes for the seat belt hole: final product: x2:

thats nasty...

what?

3 rotaries?