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J__

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Everything posted by J__

  1. hey awesome! i think the tie rod end is exactly wat im looking for! thnx for the help guys
  2. hi guys, so after my datsun is almost complete, me and my buddy has decided to start a new project and part of the hard part is the suspension. the fronts (2 upper, 2lower) cost approx $800, he doesnt want to spend that much so decided to fabricate some himself. its very easy... but just need an "adjustable" endlink. very much like the ones on ross's rear control arms. and like this... anyone knw where to get these? i suggested just using a tap and die set on steel rods but not sure if we can find a tap and die set that big. edit: also is there a "universal" bushing size for the joints? or should we just find watever bushing available then make the housing and the "spindle rod" to fit the bushing? tia
  3. ok just a little update, after endless house of bleeding my brakes still feel the same with that no resistance feel until it hits the wall and lock up. although its drivable it feels scary... reaction disk was in place and everything was fit correctly. so i took it down to my mechanic on fri because i had no clue left to what can be wrong. he took it apart and said that the rebuilt MC wasnt holding pressure(?) for the rear lines, possibly a siezed spring or something. in other words a bad rebuild. he's goin to take it apart and try to see if its fixable. otherwise i'll just get a new one. im hoping that is the fix to this problem... but that doesnt really help u forrest since u've changed 5 or so? mcs already? but maybe u were unlucky enough to get 5 bad ones?? or did u purchase new?
  4. i had a pearl white car with tan seats when i got it. but didnt like it and its a B!$## to color match. so painting it champion white instead
  5. well i havent gone fast enough to actually lock up all breaks and screech to a stop. but it's "no braek, no brake, no brake, then sudden brakes when the pedal hits the end. and yes all 4 bleeder nipples are at the top. as for hte new post, i have pretty much the same problem alot of ppl are having that posted on forrest's site, but no one has figureed out a solution yet. so i dont really want to start a multiple post leading to no answer haha. i guess i just have to wait and see what others figure out. thnx though. but btw, how does ur pedal feelnow with the 4 disks and the larger MC, same as oem? firmer than oem? or lighter than oem? thnx
  6. some of u guys hit the nail on the head, camera truck for film
  7. yea i read ur writeup and adjusted my push rod. but i didnt measure it. i just extended it approx that amount, then i found when i put on the mc it was too much and pushed the cylinder when the MC fully against the booster. i then shortened it bit by bit until it didnt push on the cylinder, at that point i assume the rod was perfectly against, but not pushing the cylinder at rest. then bled the brakes to shitz, yet my brake pedal has a super soft linear feel until it bottoms out and brakes lock up. the classic "missing reaction disk" feel... but the thing is my reaction disk is in place and super glued down.... i posted my problem on forrest's thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113035&page=2
  8. forrest i got pretty much the same problem as you.. i have 4x4caliper in front, 280zx caliper in rear, larger 280zx master cylinder, stock 280z booster, my brake pedal has a linear soft feel when depressed then suddenly bottoms. not like the normal "the more you depress, the harder it gets" feel, just soft, soft, soft, bam, hits the wall. and thats when i have the car off, when the car is on, the pedal is even softer.... i can pretty much depress the pedal with 3 fingers. i also bled the living daylights outta my brakes and checked for leaks. the only thing i adjusted was the push rod. i didnt measure how much i extended it, just by trial and error, when i extended it too much, i'd put on the MC and when i press the mc up to the booster, i can feel thesprings inside the MC "depress" a bit because the rod was too long and pushing on the cylinder. i then shortened the rod bit by bit until it didnt press on the cylinder, in other words "snug" with the 280zx mc. other than that, i didnt touch or adjust any other part of the brake booster/pedal system... i dont think the booster is broken. since it was working perfectly with the oem brake setup before i swapped in the 4x4 and rear disk breaks.... plz help
  9. yea theres a clip around it. the clip kinda looks like a sprocket. i pried it out with a flathead screwdriver and the rest came right out. my reaction disk was still stuck in place but i pried it off and super glued it down just in case. put everything back together and the brakse still feel like crap... no resistance till bottom out.......
  10. i just had to take that rod out today to check the reaction disk. that metal clip u see is very easy to take out. just get avery small flat head screw driver and GENTLY pry it out try not to bend it. but if u do, its fairly easy to bend back into shape. after u get the clip out. the rest just pull out. then u can look into the hole to see if u see the reaction disk. for me, the reaction disk was stuck on the plunger still thank god.. i just pried it off and super glue it down just in case. now im more confused.... reaction disk is in place but brakes still bottom out without any resistance........
  11. well theres nothing jdm about it. just the seller trying to make it more appealing to the jdm wannabe crowd? personally i dont care if that thing is jdm or usdm or etc etc as long as it works.
  12. this guy gets hypnotized while playing a zombie game then put into a room just like the games... its sweet lol. thats wat i call VR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srotlm_FBsY&%20eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Etecheblog%2Ecom%2Findex%2E %20php%2Ftech%2Dgadget%2Fa%2Dlook%2Dback%2Dhypno%2Dar cade%2Dgame
  13. well not getting it for the horsepower increase, my stickers will give me more =P but for better idling and safty etc etc.
  14. hi guys, anyone have experience with grounding kits on our z's? like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-STYLE-STI-UNIVERSAL-GROUNDING-GROUND-WIRES-WIRE-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33691QQihZ004QQitemZ140011915698QQrdZ1 is there any significant difference it'll make on our 30 yr old cars? my friend is ordering 2 for his cars and suggested i get one as well
  15. so can i pull the plunger outwards with the booster on my car without taking it apart?
  16. yea thats what i remembered too.
  17. if u put in the cage up there AND tilted it back, wouldnt that leave u lots of room between ur seats and the bar? ur 5'8" i cant imagine u have 4 feet long legs... my friend is 6'2" and with the seat him is "comfortable" position, i'd have to tip toe almost to fully depress the clutch and in that position, the rear of the seat is 2-3 inches from the hoop in my situation where i put it in the seatbelt wells. as i remembered correctly isnt there a rule where the main hoop must be within 6 inches from ur helmut somewhere? not too sure
  18. yup i have the straight bar welded. i had no problems with fitting the seat. just test fit the seat before u weld everything dead... the bottom of my hoop went in where the seat belt coil was. kinda like a box thing. i welded the round tube to that. then boxed it in with the 6 inch plate that came with it about 2 inches up from the bottom. had to hammer the heck outta the plate with a 2 pound sledge to make it fit the curves. that makes it super stable because its welded at 2 points and boxed in. the cage on my buddy's ae86 was welded at the end of the tubing without boxing it in and when u shake the hoop u can see it move about back and forth. he had to fab a connecting piece to the b pillar to further secure teh cage to teh car shell. i'm 5'10" with a sparco sprint seat and theres plenty of room between the back of my seat and the hoop. my friend's 6'2" and he still fits comfortably with the seat back against it. but my main hoop is tilted back approx 15 degrees. i dunno if that meets regulation for some events or not where they might requrie ur main hoop to be right angle up... ?
  19. i dont want to redo the whole booster, just want to pull the plunger out to see if the disk is still there. if not i'll fish it out with a tool. want to do all this with the booster still on the car.
  20. J__

    teaser...

    engine is stock .. sorry to dissapoint. once it blows, a v8's goin in. but everything else is not hehe. the 86 in the back is a LITTLE different now ~.^ and the gtr unfortunately is gone =( but sti is in its place
  21. i have to say you do an AWESOME job. ur one of my favourite builders on this site to follow and read up on. great stuff! keep it up
  22. maaco is actually a good deal IF you do the prep work for them.. they just wash ur car and spray it... no sanding not prep... so it looks good for a while but after a few, the paint will start to peel and bubble with poor adhesion
  23. from this... 1 sexy beast to this... the Tiki car of death in 11 months with all the entire process and pictures. countdown: 3 weeks... to be continued...
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