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seattlejester last won the day on March 9

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About seattlejester

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    Bellevue, WASHINGTON

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  1. seattlejester

    Z31T axle swap CAN fit

    Well written sir. I may try and pick a set of these up if I go back to a welded differential.
  2. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Definitely interested!
  3. seattlejester

    Saturn Electric Power Steering In A Datsun 280Z

    I'm following in socorob's foot steps. I think it would be appropriate to add things here. If you want me to make my own thread I'm happy to do so, but I think adding onto this may be useful. So some things I've found: That joint from woodward steering isn't really sold anywhere else. You have to order it through them, and they do not have an online store so you have to call them or e-mail them to order. Joint was $86.25. about $70 for the part and apparently the remaining was shipping. Not bad for the exact piece you need. The R18Z bearing is a 1-1/8 inch ID, 2-1/8 inch OD bearing. The R18 is the designation for the bearing dimensions the Z stands for single shield, 2Z or ZZ stands for double shield. They have a variant with I think R as in R18R which has a rubber seal instead of the metal shield. If you were being super correct about it you would probably order an R18 open, weld as needed, and then fill the bearings with grease and close it off with boots on both ends. Socorob also put in a butt load of work finding that exhaust pipe and part number. Strangely enough the 2-1/8th inch OD for the bearing makes finding a tube with an ID of a similar size very difficult to find. My local supplier has it in stock, but wants $20+ per foot. You can buy a thick wall tube of smaller diameter and use the correct bit to ream it out to 2/18 at the depth of the bearing and find a cap for a perfect fit, but most likely not worth the effort. You can order the 3/4 DD shaft in 18 inch length on amazon which seems almost perfect. The bruno controller can be purchased on ebay for $45 + 10$ shipping. I would suggest picking this up potentially soon if you have any thoughts. He seems to be populating/building a website and the prices are quite a bit higher at $85 for the basic controller. He also seems to be adjusting prices as some prices changed over the weekend. The website is epowersteering.com if I'm not mistaken. He also offers 3 options for just the controller: One is the basic kit with the separate potentiometer. Two is the advance kit which has a built in potentiometer. Three is the pro kit which has no potentiometer. This one apparently reads input and adjusts the assistance. In an e-mail conversation he suggested sticking with the basic kit for spirited driving. Most likely a savings over the advanced kit and the pro kit has a delay before reacting which may throw someone who is doing a quick correction off as the effort varies in say a fast chicane. Hoping to order the last of the parts and grab some columns tomorrow. I have a stock column that I'll be making a jig off of and using thanks to zetsaz
  4. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    It looks pretty, but your downpipe running is going to be a bit awkward with the waste gate in the way.
  5. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    The black sensor on the passenger side is the neutral position switch. I think it would be safe just to cut the plastic and the tabs off. Reverse switch is on the driver side and is a light blue color. Drive shaft yoke apparently is a Spicer 3503-323 (only online verified, I'll have to ask at the drive shaft store) Energy Suspension GM style polyurethane mount should work, may require a bit of filing for the spacing. 3.1108R or 3.1108G is almost 2 inches tall at 1 15/16 inch. 3.1158R or 3.1158G is the same mount but lower profile and comes in at 1 5/8 inch tall. There is a 3.1142R and 3.1142G, but it does not have the diagrams. Additionally you can apparently use the Z32 (300zx) style mounts. Those are more interesting in that it is a plate with side rubber forward and aft. Or you can stick with the stock mount. Example of the shortened stock shifter. You can't do more without changing the selector shaft to receive like a ball and socket for the pivot action.
  6. Hmm the bending in the fuse means it was using quite a few amps of the rating. Question is was it going to blow and something else went first. Continuity setting is your friend in tracing wires. If I knew more about the 280z wiring harness I would offer advice. On a friend's honda, he installed an LED backwards for one of the interior lights and shorted his entire interior light circuit. We replaced the fuse and it blew again. Found the bulb, flipped it and it stopped blowing.
  7. Paint scraper I think is the go to. Usually made out of stainless so it is pretty hard, angle it so it acts as a ramp. Employ two, one on each side and push the upright down. Heat can make them a bit more pliable, but really you don't want them to deform. If that doesn't work you can shave a little bit off. The arms can come in a bit if you tighten it, but you have to make sure you don't take too much off or it will want to bind the sleeve to the pin.
  8. seattlejester

    Exposed's 1jz Build

    It would be better to figure out what is going on before just throwing parts at it. Visually firing coils using an inline spark tester is super easy and will answer soooo many questions. I went with the 1ZZFE smart coils. They are awfully tall, but they throw a good spark, cheap, and available used or new.
  9. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    Definitely better at least in waste gate priority and transitions. https://www.theturboforums.com/attachments/wastegateplacement-jpg.660044/ https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/337259d1327631255-does-mount-orientation-wastegate-matter-precisionmanual.jpg The question or concern is if that gets in the way of feasibility in either manufacturing or locating it is probably going to take a back seat. Your welder is definitely going to be planning your murder.
  10. Hello, Welcome to the forum. You posted in the FAQ section which does not allow posting. Please take a moment to make sure you are posting in the technical section that allows posting. That looks a bit high. Did he make sure not to torque the components until they had load on them? Or at least set to operating range? New springs and such will settle, but bushings holding the car up seems to be a potential binding issue. Hard to tell without a previous photo or a shot of some of the work.
  11. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    Less 90* off the collector would be nice. Ideally putting the waste gates where the turbo flange is and curving the turbo flange further down stream, although I'm sure packaging comes into play and with adequate boost control probably a fairly moot point. ^a really nice example, although pretty much infinite room to play with compared to ours. The AR size seems quite large, I feel like a drop in 0.1 wouldn't be an issue with a twin scroll setup would probably even help spool. I don't have my sizing chart to compare, but what are we looking for power band wise and flow wise? To me that seems like a bit of a peaky setup with a power band in the upper RPM's if memory serves. I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean how the twin scroll is working when you waste through the turbine housing? I mean the stock wastegate on the EFR turbos waste through the turbine housing, more in line then on the outer portion of course though. I imagine you get most of the benefits of the exhaust being separated all the way to the turbine housing so you benefit from not having interfering pulses and gain the benefits of the exhaust speed. Once you have to bleed the waste gas you are essentially past your desired turbine speed, so loosing the benefits of the twin scroll by having a single wastegate port that more or less merges them in the waste stream is almost more beneficial in that you loose that divorced benefit as well as removing the volume.
  12. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    Moved as requested. I'd love to see a manifold with high wastegate priority. Seems like it always takes a back seat. An interesting trend is to make the twin scroll and add the wastegate to the turbine housing. Maximum priority, and at that point wasting the gas via merge shouldn't affect the pulse of the twin scroll in theory. The twin wastegates is pretty interesting keeping it completely divorced. A bit harder for me to swallow though, even cheap name brand wastegates are going to be expensive. Two cheap ones would be more than one ver nice large one. I feel like your welder might shoot you. Trying to get a tig torch down between the flange or where some of those joints are is going to require quite a long stick out.
  13. seattlejester

    Wide body build thread! Fiberglass Mafia kit MOLDED

    The kit looks like it sits pretty low on the body, curious how it will look all together. Keep up the good work!
  14. seattlejester

    1.2JZ into a 280Z build.

    ^Huh that seems to have a bit of an interesting tilt to it. Like leaned over to the passenger side and the center line tilts from towards the driver side front to back. Is it because the transmission is not in or the picture is off center?
  15. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    ^Saved, but never submitted apparently. This is getting so technical and specific to me I don't think it will help anyone down the road. Granted I think I'll model this in case someone wants to play with that at a later date. So I crawled under the car today. Definitive eyeball answer says, ~17.5 inches from firewall to stock chassis trans mount. This is almost perfectly confirmed by Zetsaz who measured 32 inches from the pocket behind the shifter to the firewall. I measured 13 inches from the pocket to point X + the 1.5 inch offset of point X to trans mount + the 17.5 inch I measured from the firewall to the trans mount adds up exactly to 32 inches. The R154 with the 2jz bell housing is actually 24 inches from the bell to mount, which makes sense since the 2jz incorporates a built in shield instead of separate pieces like the 7m. The offset of my mount is actually a surprising ~5 inches. Shifter sits about 4 inches forward of roughly centerish in the shifter hole. That all ads up to my bell housing face being ~2 inches in front of the fire wall. The CD009 is 27 inches from bell to mount so 3 inches longer. At most with the stock mounts it can sit back wards about ~ 3 inches behind before fouling. So with it inline with the stock mounts the trans would be ~9.5 inches past the firewall, + the .625 inch adapter plate pushing my engine forward almost 8 inches (from the original 2 inches it already sticks out). Although Exposed's engine doesn't sit 9 inches from where mine is, which is blowing my mind. With it sunk back 3 inches it would be ~6.5 inches past the firewall, pushing my engine forward ~5 inches forward from where my engine is. Oddly enough, I actually have another set of transmission tunnel mounts from when I made a straight cross member for the R154. That means, using those mounts and cutting out the stock mounts to make room, I can start with my 0 point being 5 inches back. That means using my rearward mounts, bell housing would be 4.5 inches past the fire wall, pushing my engine forward about 3 inches with the adapter plate. With it pushed back the 3 inches on top of using the rear mounts that puts the bell housing about 1.5 inches past the firewall, pushing my engine forward 0 inches with the adapter plate. That seems like it would be ridiculously easy. The shifter being 34 inches back...2 inch stick out + 17.5 inch to chassis mount + 1.5 to point X + 8.5 or 9.5 for ideal shifter placement 4 inches back. This is basically going to sit in the pocket. Or right in front of it. I can move the drive train forward a little bit so I don't get an awkward shifter, plus I think I need the room anyways to make sure I can access the bell housing and adapter bolts. So I've made my peace. Stock trans tunnel mounts are going to have to be removed. I can either recycle my rear mounts or cut it out and start fresh, but that is an option back there. Shifter will be shortened 4 inches and hopefully pop up near the shift hole. Transmission will be sunk in ~ 7 inches from where the stock trans tunnel mounts were. Engine mounts will be pushed forward 1-2 inches. Exhaust will have to be redone, radiator hoses will need to be shortened. I think that is it though.