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seattlejester

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seattlejester last won the day on March 9

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About seattlejester

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    Bellevue, WASHINGTON

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  1. I hope they used bedding posts.
  2. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    That is good, reading the class rules was kind of giving me a head ache. Just finished trans, need to bleed stuff, and mount the exhaust. Not sure if I can put my cat in given the space. Tempted to try to finish the power steering and shortened knuckles for this. So $15 weekend member ship + $35 per day of competition + $20 per day for fun runs at the end. $85 just to run the competition both days or $125 for both competition and fun runs.
  3. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    Hey guys, I just finished the install of my CD009. Bled the clutch and found out it doesn't seem to have enough throw (I can see the slave while bottoming out the clutch pedal (movement from when I start to press it) and it stops after maybe 1/2 an inch or so. Looking it up the 350z runs an 11/16 clutch master, I thought our 5/8 would be sufficient, but looks like with the uprated clutch disc it doesn't have enough throw to push it under pressure. I'm tempted to go a bit on the big side and am looking at the 7/8 unit, but I'm a bit concerned that may be too much. Settle at 3/4? Thoughts?
  4. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    What are you guys running for classes?
  5. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    I think it should be an open event. I don't know how much the portland SCCA charges, but I think it is like $60 or something. The only real struggle I think is the long distance down.
  6. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Oh yea, I was going to say a both option would be nice. Similarly I'll be trying for both. Hoping my cat and turbo will muffle enough to keep me under limit if not I'll bring a muffle tip just in case.
  7. I have the mount kit that was in my 240z. This lets you bolt in the R154 to the factory mounts in the early Z's 70-72 I believe before they went to the through bolt style cross member. Drive shaft is 22.5 inches from joint to joint, works great with the mount if you have an R200 installed. The engine mounts puts the engine under the hood latch super far back. It uses I believe the power steering and the AC bracket bolts on the engine and bolts to the stock rubber datsun engine mounts. Drive shaft cost me over $300. I'll sell the whole kit for $450 + fees and shipping Also have the whole kit and caboodle for the R154 for both the 2jz and 7m configuration, transmission shifts fine, engages every gear, it does have the typical shift into 4th before reverse to get it to go in smoothly quirk. I'd suggest getting the marlin crawler thrust washer for peace of mind. I think I have like 400 miles or so on this setup. From drift motion alone: 1JZ lightweight flywheel ARP flywheel bolts 1JZ bell housing R154 stage 2 clutch kit Toyota pressure plate bolts Clutch fork Clutch hub Beech performance short shifter Shifter relocator (toyota soarer, moves it back 1.25-1.5 inches) Trans mount Then I bought: Clutch slave Special length bolts Redline 75-90 fluid Shift knobs R154 transmission I've got over $3000 into this the last time I checked, looking for $2500, don't think this is going to be worth shipping.
  8. seattlejester

    Shifting Steering Rack

    Hmm haven't heard of that before. I've heard of the rack rotating, usually from the missing pipe clamp, but short of the bolts being loose or the bushings being super deteriorated that seems odd since the rack is captive. Is the steering gritty? Might be the rack needs a rebuild. I have 225's on my car and it tracks straight on flat roads, it does tend to find groves on more traveled roads though. Another passing thought is a bolt check may be in order, if the cross member bolts are loose it could be slipping the assembly sideways or something of that nature. I don't remember if the stock setup has a bearing on the strut, I imagine it must since it rotates, but that could indeed be gone and causing a drag.
  9. ^Ooh looking forward to your results. The plug and play part has me the most intrigued. I'd love a bit more assistance with braking. It would be nice to ask them, but given their popularity I feel the response would be buried almost immediately.
  10. Searching on autozone I'm getting a few different hits. Some are 11 inches which is way too wide, but some are 8.75 inches which seem more in line with what would fit at least in the early Z's https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-power-booster/duralast-reman-brake-power-booster/232665_633359_7889_32453 They specifically said bolt on, which is very appealing.
  11. seattlejester

    Hi I have no idea what I am doing

    Restoring thread
  12. Hi Seattlejester. I live just south of you in Renton and I have a 72 240z that I am looking to restore. Step 1 of my project will be the suspension and brakes. I was wondering if you could recommend a local shop that knows their way around S30s.

     

    Thanks,

    Michael

  13. ^ I agree, both are useful. Get the proper LED flashers and enjoy both benefits. I guess I was thinking more from a modernish car perspective.
  14. The happy byproduct is reducing load, but the main purpose usually is for brightness. As I learned you need an LED flasher not just an electronic flasher. I have electronic flashers in my car and those don't work with LED's in certain situations. I ended up swapping to some normal bulbs to trigger them correctly. If I was willing I could spend the time to put in load resistors and keep the brighter bulbs, or I could buy correct LED flashers and it would also work fine.
  15. seattlejester

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Yup someone commented on how good my car sounded, I was more than a couple blocks away from them. If I was maxing out my turbo and putting down 5-600hp I may be more inclined to leave the exhaust uncorked, but this round of mods is all about drivability with power steering, smoother transmission. A quieter exhaust definitely has its place in the formula.
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