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seattlejester

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seattlejester last won the day on March 9

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  1. seattlejester

    Three question-points about 13b-powered S30s

    ^That is funny, I used to do the same on that track carrying too much speed in Gran Turismo. Looks like he is having trouble keeping the car in gear with it popping out. I wonder what transmission is behind it. I think drive did a comparison and found a rotary uses more fuel than a V8 with about the same output. Alex http://s30drifting.blogspot.com/ had a rotary in his drift S30. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTvrwMREOb53ARiCs23q5tg Francisco bought the chassis. is a pretty good one on how to get it into the car http://www.viczcar.com/member-rides/matthew-clemeshas-20b-rotary-powered-73-240z There is another one on viczcar Solid mounting it in theory shouldn't be a problem as it has no piston type movement. You could add isolators via hockey pucks, jaguar mounts, polyurethane mounts etc.
  2. seattlejester

    New member CA 73 imsa widebody project

    Welcome to the forums, Looks like the ca you used is a strange font and causing the system to redirect. Please try and refrain from using symbols, or characters including odd fonts in post titles as it causes the post to be inaccessible. Hope you have a good time here.
  3. The metal manifolds came stock on the earlier years. They make other options too, but it seems like the engines with the dual intakes seem like the later years that have a plastic intake like most newer cars have like the ford ST's the LS engine, WRX cars, etc. They still feature the vanity cover which is removable. If that removable vanity cover keeps you from wanting a viable engine option then it is pretty much at the top of your list there on priorities. Nothing wrong with that, it is just an exclusion requirement for you that we have to factor in. So priority for you: No vanity cover, even removable ones No plastic intake manifolds No LS engines No RB's No 2jz's Kind of reduces your options a bit. Breaking the "mold" is fine, you just have to be aware that the more you break the mold, the better your skills will have to be as there will be less people who have gone down that route. Your reasons for breaking the mold though have to be really on point at least for you, just because you want some stranger to say "oh I have not seen that before" is not really going to outweigh being broken down on the side of the road because you need a custom serpentine belt that takes 3 days to ship. If it does outweigh it for you then more power to you, that "wow factor" is higher on your list of priorities than serviceability. Keep in mind with the internet, there aren't that many surprises left for those who know how to use google. Not having a halo bar would make this more of a roll bar than a roll cage. You will find terminology is pretty important here. I did remove my door bar after about a month as slipping in the car became an exercise in foot placement and weight management. Think things through. You are as miles pointed out on a swap haven, almost every type of swap has been conceived or witnessed on here and elsewhere, V10, V12, flat 4, rear mount V6, rotary (2, 3, and now even 4 apparently), 4-cylinder (even a 4g63, among SR20, FA22C etc), even electric. The reasons people have done it or started it range from because they had access or they were bored to pointing out the benefits in engineering, serviceability, familiarity, or whatever. Narrow it down, to a couple candidates that have good pros that outweigh any cons and ask specifics. One thing that might help in reality check terms is asking how much people have spent getting the swap into their cars, because in the JZ side of things the average cost is a suggested 7-10k just in getting the engine in and running with minor supporting systems like coolant and fuel, not including chassis, rear end, suspension, brakes.
  4. seattlejester

    A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)

    My situation is unique in that my frame rails come into the cabin. So the frame is welded to that frame rail. I'm not sure if I would just trust welding a plate to the sheet metal on the floor.
  5. Not anything really plastic there? The stock intake pipe is plastic as is for almost all cars. Manifold or collector plenum is big cast aluminum unit I believe, which has short comings in distribution so it usually gets replaced. I've seen people mention this a few times. It really doesn't need mentioning. Who wants a peaky 300hp build? Like who takes an 2jzgte, 1jzgte, rb25det, or even an L28et which all have pretty flat-ish power bands and curves and almost make 300hp, and finds a turbo that doesn't spool until super late and then chokes the crap out of it up top so it limits itself to only 300hp? That is running a massive hotside and then basically an equivalent massive wastegate to open the moment it starts to spool. It really does not merit mentioning. That was a thing when turbo manufacturers didn't make anything for gas cars, now they do. Borg warner, precision, garrett, they all have a performance gas engine division now, so no more borrowing diesel turbos and dealing with their characteristics. I am pedantic so a correction. Unique means singular. If it has been done and done more than once, then by definition no longer unique. I mean if you want a unique car, find the excrement of two singularly unique animals and smear it all over your car, it will be by definition unique, with an minute chance of replication. I went to a junkyard last week, and the guy there said he put together a 4 rotor 280z like a decade ago. 2x12A motors with a custom e-shaft. I thought there was only 1 4-rotor S30, even that is not the case. A caged car really shouldn't be on the road anymore. A minor accident can go from a fender bender to a skull fracture. Sheet metal is a lot more forgiving than DOM tube in a collision. Roll bar with anti-intrusion bars may be sufficient for protection. You can get a cage and have it fit really tight to the body and run impact absorption material, but that would be pretty expensive and still it would take quite a bit of visibility away. I can't really speak on this with authority so I'll let others chime in. Make a list. We'll throw out options and test it: Priority: "Uniqueness" (super vague, maybe something like not-domestic or german, might be more apt a description) "Aesthetics" (in regards to an engine is kind of tough, you have to narrow this down more, you mention not having hoses/wires everywhere, well turbo cars are going to generally have more hoses than NA cars etc) 300hp no 4 cylinder "Useable" power band No transmission tunnel modification Regarding your build, how much do you have budgeted for this? If this in any way feels harsh, here is where I come from. I had a roll bar which I removed it for a couple more inches of leg room. I had a fuel cell which I am replacing with a OEM tank from a camaro because I get fuel starvation on corners. I built my fuel system twice as I went from simple carb only to fuel injected turbo. Plan things out, if your plan can with stand scrutiny then it will be easier to justify going down the road. If someone told me 8 years ago that I would have over $30k in my $500 car, I probably would have reconsidered or done things differently.
  6. seattlejester

    A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)

    I'd prefer if it met up with the rocker and trans tunnel, but it works for now.
  7. seattlejester

    A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)

    My seats are floor mounted (on plates welded to tubular frame rails) and you can see out pretty easily, if Omar is close to 6' than he is taller than me so I'll let him chime in on his experience. Usually they run a broom stick test, although if your car is something like certain convertibles where you are in contact with the bar, with good restraints, they seem to give you a pass if you have the absorption stuff as mentioned. My bar was no where near my head, it sat right in front of the map light, to hit it my seat would have to snap on the cross bar first. If you are using a roll bar just design it so that it angles back.
  8. The S30 engine bay is quite a bit larger than an E30. I used to be able to stand inside the engine bay in front of my engine with my 7mgte. In my friend's E30 I think part of his accessory drive sits offset of the fan because they are so close. If you are precluding an engine choice based on a removable-nonfunctinoal cover than I think aesthetics are a higher priority than performance. It seems maybe ease of install would be a close second over performance as well. Might be worth sitting down and thinking about what is the highest priority and making a list in order. An L28ET seems to be the easiest, aesthetically it is pretty much stock, it is dirt easy to install, and it can definitely make over 300hp. If that is not on the top of your list than you have another priority like wanting a swapped car, or street cred, etc. Hard for us to play the game without you giving us your list of priorities. You mention sound, aesthetics, hp, ease of swap, torque, turbo lag, insurance, tax, etc. Make a list in order of priority. If an engine is suggested that meets the criteria and you still don't like it than you definitely have a different priority order, adjust until it accurately reflects what you want. To start for me my priority was: Ease of install So I went with an L28E that I converted to carbs. That was the easiest to do. Then it switched: Turbo (preferably factory) Cross flow head (preferably with intake on driver side) Similar displacement or larger (I had a 2.8L in my 240z) Ease of service (parts available in the parts store) Low modification (keep factory mounts to make it reversible) That precluded the RB's, SR's, german engines, etc, even the turbo JZ's. Basically left me with the 7mgte. That is what I did. When the 7mgte let go, my priority shifted: Ease of install Turbo R154 compatible That meant either staying with a 7mgte or swapping to a 2jz, or going to a 4g63 with an adapter. Since I still wanted turbo, but I didn't want to have to rely on importing parts or dealing with a new platform, my priority switched with ease of finding parts taking over factory turbo charged so I went with 2jz-ge na-t. Then I decided to swap in a stronger and smoother transmission, priorities were: cheap strong not visible under from the side So low modification fell off the list and cheap while not visible meant I had to do the work and spend a lot of time with getting the fitment right. At each point the priority changes, but looking back I know exactly why I picked each one. There really are no regrets as at the time it made justifiable sense, granted in hindsight I would have done some things different as options weren't available or affordable at the time. Some things to consider: Transmission: Any engine with a decent horsepower output is going to use a bigger transmission. LS, JZ, RB, VQ. They all have fairly big transmissions especially for their strong transmission option. The VQ transmission is I believe the biggest next to the the T56, but the benefit is that all of those mentioned above actually can run the CD009 transmission as it is strong, cheap, and plentiful. You can cut down quite a bit on bulk using the newer adapter plates the require bell housing cutting but it still is large. Even at that large a size with an early Z 70-72, you can probably fit it without any drastic changes other then removing the mounts. The later years you have to remove the whole trans tunnel brace type situation. With that said the R154 from the JZ can fit with custom mounts on the factory points in the early years, I still have my "kit" if you want measurements. Rear end: You are planning on putting out more than double the power the axles are used to seeing if you want the earlier cars you are also going to have the weaker stub axles. That means you need to factor in stronger axles, rear end, etc etc. This can end up costing as much as the engine itself so keep that in mind.
  9. I wouldn't get too caught up in 50/50. There are ways to get there in other ways to get there via moving things around and it also kind of depends on dynamic movement. You can have 2 cars with 50/50, but if one had the engine lifted a foot higher it would raise the center of gravity and behave poorly etc. I would put the VQ back on the table with that kind of power restriction, there are aftermarket intakes available which you may even need to flip the intakes towards the front. It would be torquey, reliable, and be brand loyal if that mattered. Plus the transmission option is really fantastic for that latter years, it really has a lot going for it.
  10. seattlejester

    2JZ/RB26 in 240/260 = Nose-Heavy?

    I think with good tires it would be negligible. Most people who do the swaps push the engines further back, it doesn't do anything for the weight split since the engine is still over the front axle, but less leverage on the engine? Hard to compare really since usually the power difference is quite drastic. Best bet would be asking @dexter72 as someone who went from turbo L28 to turbo 2jz. Maybe even @Ben280 as his L28 probably puts out quite a lot and he has driven my Z, although the setups are so different in tires/suspension it may not be a fair comparison.
  11. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Fuel pumps down, replacement came in today, so no time to install and head down unfortunately.
  12. seattlejester

    Nicksoccer22's Build's

    The turn signal pads on the combo switch are known to get burnt, bend, or a myriad of other problems. I wonder if you have the fuse box properly powered up, the fuse box also is problematic in that it is poor solder and the terminals can burn off on the back side. Buy a cheap multi-meter, or get one for free with purchase of anything from harbor freight with the coupon. Get a set of long wires with aligator clamps in a heavier gauge and an inline switch and you have the best tool for checking wires. You pretty much only need one setting for this and it is the continuity setting. Learn how to use it, it will take maybe 5 mins and will be super useful the rest of your life. Stop guessing or assuming with this kind of stuff, it is pretty straight forward. Check continuity between the item you are curious about (headlight) and start tracing, leave a clip on the power side of the headlight and keep tracing back until you loose continuity, your break will be between the last place you had continuity and your current location. No need to guess. Test sections at a time and you will be golden. Pull the fuse and test from the fuse box to the light and you can see if there is break from the fuse box to the light, check from the other side of the fuse to the combo switch to find out the same.
  13. seattlejester

    Neubs 1971 240z

    Merging Please note due to forum software error any punctuation or foreign characters used in the title may cause the thread to not be accessible. Welcome to the forums, hope you have a good time.
  14. seattlejester

    Labor day sales

    AGP turbo, they carry a pretty good selection and some custom turbos and hotsides.
  15. seattlejester

    Labor day sales

    Just wanted to let people know who maybe are not on the mailing lists. There are some pretty good sales going on. Z Car depot has a 10% sale AGP also has a 10% sale If anyone finds some others feel free to throw them up for others!
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