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seattlejester last won the day on October 24

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About seattlejester

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  1. seattlejester

    Carbon fiber side marker lamp lens aero replacements!

    That is clever, might have to try playing around with that idea!
  2. ^ You would have to shorten the splined shaft then correct? I guess you could just add a spacer between the bushing stop for the dash mount.
  3. I have the answer. Just need to think about it, give me a minute. Edit: So as others have suggested other methods such as a flat wheel or inverted wheel, thinner seat, reclined seat, would be much easier. Early Z assembly Column to firewall Internal shaft The outer tube Bottom seat of the outer tube Inner tube with spring. So the inner tube is a mostly hollow tube that ends right where the steering column attaches to the dash. The outer tube is two parts with one being the upper portion that attaches to the dash, and the lower portion that extends down and has a bellow that attaches to the firewall. Internally there is a shaft that comes through the fire wall. In case of an accident the bottom bellow crushes and the assembly slides away from the driver if that is the greater force or if from the other side the assembly is retained and the hollow tube slides up through the hollow portion. You would be compromising the safety by shortening the length it has to collapse. If that is not a concern then in theory you could section the inner and outer tube of the upper portion. The splines of the shaft only engage at the bottom of the upper inner tube so unless you wanted to also go about manipulating that it would be better to cut it out of the upper portion. The concern would be as you guessed, getting them welded inline perfectly. If they were off you would have binding issues come up as the top is retained by a sprung c-clip. You do have a bit of room with the springs on both sides, but you may feel some binding. You also would run into issues with retaining the steering lock and the blinker mount. Your steering wheel would also get quite close to the dash with limited room for the steering mounted accessories. With that said there are a bunch of ways to line up tubes and weld them straight, there is the budget, 90* channel with pipe clamps. Or more high tech methods like 3d printing a brace to line them up. I ended up cutting the bottom portion to fit a power steering setup. So my problem was welding the shaft, which now in retrospect I have very limited collapse as it widens at the bottom of the splines although I accounted for some of that by retaining the collapsible portion of the donor column as well. It took a few tries to get it to the point you couldn't feel bind, much more difficult, but possible. Long story short, you could do it. The question is the balance, as it was built around that setup to a point, once you move that you may need to modify the dash and the controls, and at that point you get into "making a new column is easier than trying to modify the old column."
  4. seattlejester

    Cant post in cars for sale

    Hmm forum issues at the moment, I'll notify and see if we can resolve, from what I see it looks like everyone has lost that tag. Edit: Correction, some people still definitely have the tag. I was using myself as a comparison, but that may not be a valid comparison.
  5. seattlejester

    350z internals into a 280zx

    The engine mounts are different between the S130 and the S30. At least to the block. I had to use the ones off of my S30 when I got the S130 motor. The lean was off, but the mounts from my recollection were in line. With a welder and angle grinder anything is technically possible. This also isn't a novel thing as it has been done before so leaning more towards a definite in the realm of possibility. Looks like "Z fever" has done one in the past. The concern will fall more towards feasibility. Swaps can be fairly involved so planning things out and asking specific questions will get you more mileage over a very broad general situation. Personally I would suggest looking for at least a newer transmission if this is a manual swap. The CD001 and CD008 leave a bit to be desired while the CD009 and later are regarded much more for durability and usability. Might almost consider a body swap as it would be easier than fabricating mounts and figuring out the rear subframe assuming the wheel base is similar.
  6. This is kind of off topic, jumping into a pretty specialized topic. I would suggest a new thread if you would like to display your findings for others to question and comment on regarding the S13/14 front end swap. My recollection was that you could buy almost everything from Silvermine and just invert the left and the right to get the steering assembly to work. I guess the only real new thing is the off the shelf solution from one manufacturer for the coilover, I think previously it required the use of a pillowball mount from T3 or GC or what not.
  7. Hello, Welcome to the forums. It seems like you posted to the FAQ section. I have gone ahead and moved your post to the general brake section. Please make sure to double check before posting to make sure it goes into a section where people can reply.
  8. You generally want as much crank contact as possible. Anything that experiences a lot of load you want more belt wrap as well. I'm running no AC and no power steering which in theory has about a quarter of pulley engagement with tension and it slips on cold starts as an example. Using the power steering pulley as an idler would be a valid option. Or building a bracket and moving the AC up to the power steering area would be another.
  9. ^That is very well done. For your concern though, I'm not sure what you think you will be doing, but camber is pretty much a set and forget type situation. Unless you plan on tweaking it often and have toe/camber plates at home you really don't revisit it very often. Even if you did, the 1 degree or so that the bolt in style gives is not the most useful range, adjustable control arms would get you more or adjustable cross member. If you needed to drop it it is 3 bolts plus the sway bar end link. 4 bolts. Not the end of the world really. The T3 ones or the 4 bolt have a larger range so that would make more sense to use. You would have to find out the shock diameter and length. I have the number 14 or 17mm in my head for some reason.
  10. seattlejester

    Ford 8.8 IRS swap v2.0

    I think you deserve your own thread, it has deviated a bit from the original poster and all. Let me know if you want assistance in copying posts and moving them over. For the record well done. Testing and looking for faults BEFORE putting it out there while gathering feedback by public posting. At a good price point I'm sure you will have people very interested.
  11. seattlejester

    Fender flares

    I guess you are looking for stick on flares? Unless you are confused and looking for molded flares. Neither will allow your car to return to stock if installed correctly. If you keep your factory arches then you would actually have to raise the car in addition to adding the flare which would be silly.
  12. seattlejester

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    They are running it through the gauntlet to see what went wrong with it, so hopefully soon. I wouldn't say obsessive as well informed, or at least curious. Lots of people ask about good turbos or turbo recommendations, and you will find some recommend based purely on peak numbers. Characteristics are harder to find out. I had a lot of trouble figuring it out and I asked a friend about it, he gave me the low down and taught me how to look at compressor maps. Once you can read those you can pull the numbers off of the maps. He spec'd his turbo for his motor and it makes too much power almost too quickly. That is the best type of problem to have, so I wanted a piece of that. Looking at the maps I ended up back to the same turbo. I had a lot of issues with my setup, but once everything was working, it is a ridiculous benchmark point one you can compare lots of things to. That is really all bench racing though, it is the application that really speaks to you. If your goals are at that point, and you want to maintain the money you have into the dump, then you have to remember to factor that into the price of the turbo as a "savings." Granted if you had a flange and a u-bend, dump pipes are one of the easiest things to make. I just redid mine to clean my new transmission, cost me $30 for the pipe.
  13. seattlejester

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    True, you won't really notice if you limit yourself in your projected ball park. You aren't asking a ton from the turbos you are looking at for your power goals. Now the question is when you do ask a lot from it how will it behave. Like the 57 trim you are looking at is a 7566 by common nomenclature. A bw is s200sx-e is a 7670. Similar right? One can support 475hp according to some sites. In my research I've seen real world 420whp at 16lbs and that is reving the nuts off the turbo at 130k+ RPM. The bw will do that at 100k RPM and the max power it will support is 650hp. So same size frame, newer feature you are getting almost 30% more out of it. That translates to lower turbine rpm, which equates to lower charge air temp, which leads to denser air charge, which leads to lower IAT, which leads to higher VE, which leads to more fuel, which leads to even more cooling, which leads to higher VE, which leads to more power, extracted, and so on so on. Turbo will last longer, charge air will be cooler, power will be felt sooner, VE will be higher, thus more fuel, more power, more cooling, more exhaust, more turbine pressure, etc etc. If you are playing down low though you are probably right, you won't really notice unless someone has a very similar setup as you and they pull away, build boost sooner, or what not. Air might be warmer, you may need a psi or more to compensate, your IAT may be higher, your VE will be lower, but still you can keep compensating with higher boost to a point where something doesn't work. For me it was a question of fitment. Frankly a borg warner wouldn't even fit with the manifold that I had, so I was looking at the same turbos on the same website as you are. From my research Himni is a reputable vendor usually focused on rotaries and they have some of the best prices. I entertained ebay turbos, even tried to justify the ball bearing ones, but that seemed silly. Then I found AGP that had a hilariously perfect hotside for me. One they didn't even know if it would fit the newly introduced SX-E line. When I called and asked the guy said no at first then walked up grabbed one and opened a supercore and found that it would indeed fit. Then I had a perfect sized open hotside that would leave me the smallest of room, but room none the less. So for $100 more than what a T3/T04E hybrid was going to cost me I was going to get the best tech for my budget on almost what felt to me was a bespoke hotside. It also helped to know that my order was I think a month or so out, because they were getting these by the pallet and couldn't keep them in stock because they were selling so fast. Also I sound like a huge fan boy because I am. I mean it sucks, but if someone has a knock off that performs just as good as the "real thing" for a 1/3 of the price it would be foolish not to consider it. Just look at the sheer number of those available on ebay and amazon for the T3/T04E. The crazy thing is they make good power, and some for a bit more come with ball bearings and anti-surge porting, some even have warranties that put the factory ones to shame! So better for less, hard to beat, but when something is in almost a class of its own specification, size, and feature wise at a price that is not unreasonable for the features, I'll happily spend my money there. My friend has the earlier version the non E variant, for $50-100 more I could get a freaking billet wheel, improved casting, anti-surge porting, pre drilled pressure port, better bearing. I've been in his car and it was disturbingly quick like the most violent 330hp I have ever felt when we couldn't get the boost solenoid to open correctly. To have a turbo that was going to be that much better, no question at that point.
  14. seattlejester

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    Last time I did the math I think I'm more than 30 into mine... Older turbos will work, you just miss out on some features that make newer turbos "better." Extended tip, billet wheels, full face journals, pre drilled for boost reference, better matched compressor and wheels etc, and that is just the lower end spectrum, when you get up higher you get things like ball bearings, stainless exhaust housings, V-band inlets and outlets, etc. If you can live without it and just want a target horsepower, at the end any turbo will really get you there whether that is an ebay turbo that will last 1000 miles or an EFR turbo that will get you there fast, maintain power, have room to grow, never rust, etc etc etc. The question is if the price will break a project, if you have more into the turbo then into the entire engine, then it kind of seems silly.
  15. seattlejester

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    I forget who, but someone on here has a really really good flowing waste gate adapter. It does add to the price overall, adapter plus wastegate, but you can get really good boost control. I was in the same spot as you, wanting the best bang for buck, but being limited by finances, I couldn't swing for it until I had an unexpected amount of overtime to help fund it. You say that now, and it may be the case, but with turbos stepping up isn't hard at all if your other systems (fuel and cooling) are up to the task. I remember when I built my entire car thinking anything over 200hp was silly. Super glad I at least had the tank with 8AN outlets and a cooling setup rated for 4-500hp.