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seattlejester last won the day on March 9

seattlejester had the most liked content!

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About seattlejester

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    Bellevue, WASHINGTON
  1. Wastegate upsizing

    Of course, but it gives me a bit of a ball park to look at. Like if you cannot control boost with a similar turbo with a smaller engine, lower compression, lower effiiciency, and all that then I have no chance trying to expect control with my setup I installed the 6.9lb springs (uses a 5.6 and a 1.3 spring combined to make 6.9). I did check and I had a 9.4 lb spring installed previously. I ran some data logs so I can find the exact results at a later date, but looking at the little boost gauge I'm definitely creeping in lower gears if I shoot for under 10lbs. It was reading a little bit above 10lbs in 1st and 2nd, in 3rd I definitely hit boost cut if I rolled into it quickly. I can even make trouble for myself in second if I am going up a big grade. Good news is there is really good routing to try and fix it. The 90* rotation adapter for the wastegate mount, then clocking the exit flange should let me do a merge that isn't anywhere as sharp.
  2. Wastegate upsizing

    Sorry, I should have mentioned my boost control setup, but in my mind it was a flow problem, and still most likely is a flow problem. I think the control mechanism is likely solid now thanks to Chickenman. I think I'm with Chickenman in the MBC camp unless I get into boost by gear type setup, but that would need a digital speedo input and such so not for me right now, if I really wanted EBC again, all I need to do is buy another compatible solenoid since it is all done through megasquirt. Planning on swapping springs tomorrow.
  3. Wastegate upsizing

    @rossman do you happen to have your numbers? PSI and hp? @softopz I had an EBC, but it turned out it was sticking or something as it would only work sometimes. Following chickenman's recommendation and help I bought a manual boost controller. That is plumbed just into the bottom of the diaphragm. Top one is left open. My thought was that the gate was too small, even with subpar priority and wastegate dumping, I didn't think it would make a big enough difference remedide, but then again I kind of want my dynamic range to be from 10lbs-20lbs so holding the lower number might be asking a lot of the little 38mm flange. The setup isn't problemental as in facing compressor surge or something of that nature, I'm sure the engine would take quite a bit of boost. Too much boost in the sense of it being above what I think is comfortable within safety margins of the injectors currently, possibly the axles as well. I am sure I could stuff more boost into the motor, but I'm still on stock internals and my ECU only reads up to 2.5bar and that is absolute bar so up to 23psi or so. I'd also like to keep the power a bit manageable,
  4. Wastegate upsizing

    Ah, no, by elephant trunk I meant the remote wastegate mount. Friend has something similar his has maybe a bend or two with maybe 10 inches of piping, so we call the remote wastegate an elephant trunk, makes sense many others don't. Ah, you are using more boost than I am. Well, I will give this a shot, I'll grab some numbers as to when wastegate creep starts and where it hits my boost cut and generate a couple data points, hopefully plan and reroute the wastegate dump in the next week or so. If that doesn't pan out, I'll just plan on stepping up, hogging out the turbo manifold and selling off the 39mm gate.
  5. TIG welder recommendation

    I think I've pretty much settled on the Everlast 185DV unit. Just waiting on some funds to account for the accessories and the tank I'll have to buy. One of the wants is AC capable, the multiprocess ones don't offer that, at least not without using a spool gun or something of that nature. I also already have a MIG so that would be a bit redundant.
  6. Wastegate upsizing

    I do have a cheapo harborfrieght die grinder that I find difficult to use for the same reason, speed is just set to kill. An external speed control seems like a good idea if it does not have one. I appreciate the brainstorming. Unfortunately spacing the turbo isn't an option, I have about 1/4-1/2 an inch before the compressor hits the shock tower. So squeezing between the dump and the manifold won't work with that little room. Given the design though I should be able to go off towards the firewall if memory serves. You didn't have any problems with the elephant trunk style? I thought having the wastegate remote located was also not a good thing. How much power were/are you pushing what PSI numbers are you reading? Hmm the GT35R supposedly flows more than my borg warner S257SX-E, granted I most likely have more exhaust flow with my compression and headflow rate. I'm about 50/50 on whether I spend time on trying to get the 38mm to work or just step up to the 44mm.
  7. Wastegate upsizing

    Wow, I didn't even know that was a thing. I wonder how much flex it could handle. Just to get this straight. The suggestion is with the current 39mm wastegate, cut off the current wastegate dump, cap the turbo dump pipe of the hole, add the flex hose, and see if the 39mm would work at all, basically testing the turbulence theory correct? I know for divorced setups you do want a bellow or a flex joint, if the wastegate reroute takes place it will definitely be that way. The current half measure in my mind is to actually take off the hood, cut and patch the turbo dump, then install the nub of the wastegate on inverted (so it screams to atmosphere) to see if it can hold boost as well.
  8. Wastegate upsizing

    Hmm, would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GD0601-4-Inch-Die-Grinder/dp/B001ASC73E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521140870&sr=1-1&keywords=electric+die+grinder Then again, I wonder if a machine shop could drill out the hole for a less than the cost of that tool. I think my endgame plan will be picking up the precision 46mm wastegate, match the flange to the V-band, then clock the waste gate so that the pipe goes out and enters the dump pipe at a 90 degree to the turbo exit (follows the bend of the dump pipe), so that it goes along the curve and gradually blends into taking maybe 3-4 inches to do so. There is a childish part of me that would find a screamer pipe entertaining, but a bigger part of me finds that to be a bit too much theater. Hopefully this solves this and we can finally move onto tuning.
  9. Wastegate upsizing

    Almost looks like the manifold would have made sense with two wastegates and being truly twin scroll. As it is now it has a bit of a ramp where the exhaust enters the turbo, but it is about an inch or two from sealing. I want to say there is an aftermarket flange adapter type thing that does divide it into a twinscroll, but that would only compound my problem. Not sure the reason, the only one that makes sense to me is for a QSV, but even then I'm not sure. Technically like 87* :D, the more I think about it the more I feel like there was a reason it was done that way given how unideal it is. Not sure if it was to keep access to the bolt or just the room for the turn. I do recall being startled by the lack of space. That 90* adapter might be something. Although I'm not sure how far I can go straight back given how far I placed my motor in the engine bay. The waste gate adapter did catch my eye for stepping up to a 44mm and getting the infinite clock-ability of the V-band. I think the concern with that style is that the hole still remains at 35mm according to some diagrams online. That would mean needing to port the adapter and might as well the manifold, and if that is the case might as well just weld the included wastegate flange from a 44mm wastegate directly to the manifold after porting it to match was my thinking. Not even sure how you port cast stainless. Only thing that was worked before was tungsten carbide bit on a dremel and that took ages just to do a couple mm on a flange. I'm not sure if the hotside change is an option. The only BW turbos with wastegates are the EFR turbos, and even then my spacing is fairly tight. I think the first step will be to take some measurements, then see if there are options. I'll swap springs, but I think the setup prevents this size from working. I think a wastegate change and exhaust rerouting might be in order.
  10. Exposed's 1jz Build

    Extra vacuum line might be nice if they want to feed a boost curve into the dyno or something of that nature.
  11. Wastegate upsizing

    Thank you guys for the response, I must have missed them. I'll grab a wide angle shot this weekend. That is where the wastegate is mounted. That is unfortunately how the wastegate dump merges back with the exhaust, it is probably one of the worst ways of merging to be honest. I tried to tilt it so it is not perpendicular, but I couldn't get it very far from what I recall. There just is not very much room unless I try to do a full 90* turn and follow the exhaust for a little bit, but then I run into interference with the heater bypass hose if memory serves. I might believe that the wastegate was opening plus or minus 3lbs of the rated spring, but I've been told precision gate springs are pretty solid. Swapping the springs doesn't cost me anything though, so I will give that a try. Edit: found another picture. Looking at that seems to have jogged my memory. I seem to recall that the 90* bend actually hit the turbo dump pipe when it was turned to follow along with it. So short of resorting to pie cuts for a really sharp 90*, this was the only option I had. I can try a screamer pipe setup, but I fear that the only way to do so would be to go up through the hood because of the previously stated interference. I'll go and take some measurements this weekend.
  12. @NewZed My point was an ease of inspection and later on adding in ease of maintenance being a reason to swap to discs. My fright was centered around how they failed and how the failure is kept hidden. If I truly feared blowouts of the wheel cylinder I would have a panic attack anytime a car with drums pulls up next to me or I am offered a ride in one, and that is not the case. I think it was a fair counter point, but you are allowed to disagree. You brought up the fact they are being used dependably today by reputable manufacturers, my counter point was the only reason they still are being used is financially motivated. While I am not disputing the fact they are dependable enough to be used today, I am disputing the fact the reason they still are. There are also some whisperings by some sources as to alternative reasons why they still are, dependability and performance have nothing to do with it according to them. Regardless in the face of data, my few anecdotal experiences truly are insignificant. While the experience left enough of an impression on me to change my mind, I'm sure an analysis of the data on how many systems are in use even in older cars with no malady to report would counter my views easily, therefore irrational could be applied. Bummer when that is the case for the person who holds the view, but I concede on that front. @PrincePaul jdmjunkies.ch is actually on this board I think, I believe the two becomes one build thread is his. Having the stock bias values to compare with would be a real treat as we could compare how far off the values for popular swaps can be. I think Miles has been answering your question from the beginning. Keep the stock system, but upgrade pads and lines, maybe add better fluid. If you have to do an upgrade what you outline should be sufficient with a bigger bore master to compensate for additional fluid required. The vented differing piston caliper setup seems to be on I4 4-Runner (also vented rotor): 43mm/34mm according to the thread above. Not sure if anyone supplies a kit, but I'm sure silvermine would be able to make a custom kit if that is what you really want, it would just be a matter of grabbing different calipers from the parts supplier. To get a specific answer to your question I might suggest classiczcar, I was only slightly familiar with the Mk63 setup before this week, looking it up I see a lot more hits over there, so someone might actually be running this setup to give you a positive real world "feel" answer rather than numbers.
  13. Kudos, can't wait to see the contrast!
  14. This took a while to wrap my head around. My concern wasn't between the front comparisons, but more so your front to rear to end up at the bias ratio you have the 80/20 you arrived at. We were having some discussion on how to accurately determine the moment arm of a drum brake as well as the leverages involved on the shoes so looking at your math was a bit startling as that just removed the moment arm, but since you are comparing the same moment arms between two setups and looking for the difference between the same setups (moment arms wise) the moment arms cancel out and you are left with a force ratio, which you could compare using your method. Speaking of factors given you are multiplying both the fronts and rear by two to get total pistons you can remove those and work with some smaller numbers. You are increasing the fronts somewhat by 43mm vs the FIA 41.3mm so using the bigger 7/8 vs the 13/16 of the FIA rear cylinder would raise the force in the rear enough to maintain the ratio between the forces, in theory you should be able to run the stock proportioning valve given the very minor difference. You could use a manual one and dial in some more rear brake to improve performance somewhat, but the bottomline is compared to the FIA setup running the S12W setup would be somewhat comparable with the 7/8 rear cylinder math wise.