seattlejester

Welcome to the forum! The square ports are what I'm used to seeing over here, but understandably different on the other side of the world. I've been told removing them is quite tedious and not much benefit in the past. I'll let those more knowledgable chime in though.

Heat is hard to beat, report back when you can. I know I've taken advantage of rent a lift type services to avoid getting scalded on the ground. You only need a very small amount of play to make a fairly audible clunk. Loose sway bar link can make a real click to clunk depending on how loose it is.

Only forum I know of as well. Although I know other forums that have other interesting rule sets. Think of it as dressing up your post a bit if you need be. I'm sure this topic will be searched years down the line by future Z owners. The noise at a sudden lift makes me think mount related. The stock setup even new has weaknesses especially with a sudden load transfer. I will say sometimes noises carry. I had a rattle that I swear was my tool bag only to find it was a loose plastic trim reverberating. There are some intricacies involved with reassembling the rear wheel bearing, making sure the seal is seated and not interfering, the stub axle is fully in, the right spacer sleeve if you are mixing and matching. I also had to use an axle tool to get to the required 180ft lbs. If it was the rear driver I might think about bottoming out an axle, but the rear passenger should be ok. Might be worth getting the car in the air and pulling and pushing to see if anything has play. It seems like it will be something glaringly obvious, or intricate and internal.

Just to clarify I don't mean a hard launch, I mean taking off from a stop. Like do you feel it immediately when you let off the clutch or is it as you get moving or is it as the suspension squats? I will second JHM my last clunk I had to deal with (other than VLSD axles) was from the RLCA bolts holding the inboard bushings. Found them several turns out after refreshing the suspension. Technoversion is where I and several of my friends picked up our RT style mount. Doesn't hurt that he's local. Clarification is never a bad thing. Remember, no one gets paid on a forum to answer questions. Sometimes it is hard to imagine the problem when some aspect is unclear. Heck sometimes I know I don't want to read a post if it is really long and poorly formatted. I know it can suck, I still have a warning from a capitalization failure, but take it as a chance to try a bit more, maybe consider it payment for the free advice. Speaking of...forum rule, make sure to capitalize.

So excite, much eager.

Welcome back to the fold! Depending on the severity of rust and how you feel about it will be how you go about it. Cutting out and replacing the far gone parts etc. I personally like a needle scaler for areas I am unsure about, if it punctures then it wasn't much good to begin with, if it doesn't it leaves a pretty clean finish to apply what you need to. I personally like JZ's, but nothing against the RB's. Looks like it will be pretty sweet.

"Gland nuts are tight as can be" sounds a bit concerning. I do know some variants of the shocks required spacers that were not included with a definite feeling of bottoming out. I second the RT style mount, just from a design standpoint it is better and with the snubber on the bottom you don't get any diff movement to contribute to potential clunks. Can you get a clunk off of a launch? It sounds like you hit some of the most common areas, so short of something glaring it may be something minor like a loose control arm bolt (the big one on the front and back of the rear control arm like to come loose) or something more in detail like a loose stub axle nut.

I know 1JZ's have problems with bleeding and overheating, but first time I've seen problems with a 2JZ. That is an endgame swap for many, so seeing it pulled is unfortunate, but you have to do what feels right. I've also never seen a motor doing a face plant either, lol.

Nicely done! I remember gluing my gauge to the factory bezel, then moving onto the PVC couplers. The factory hoods are quite nice in the sun.

I've missed a bunch of posts, progress looks great! If I remember project Hugo ended up cutting the rocker panel in the middle somewhere and removing material to generate the proper fitment. I think if that was done you would achieve good fit in both locations?

Most excellent! Should have a cool sound, side drafts on an inline 6 have a really nice induction noise. I would run a compression test to before taking the head off to see if there are any problem areas that may need additional scrutiny. Make sure you buy the 10 point socket for the head and clear out the bolt heads of any gunk, these strip very easily. There is also a technique to removing them that leads to less breakage that I would try and find. If you do have to go a different route, the crank trigger wheel isn't too bad. A 1JZ crank pulley has 4 centered holes that can be used to bolt a DIYautotune wheel to. You will run into the whole seal preference thing. I'd be tempted to just take the mainstream advice and go with OEM seals when the time comes.

Ran into the same issue. I'm happy to take up the mantle again, but definitely not quite as active as I used to be. I think anyone from the list generated last time would be a real boon.

Goodness, that is quite the list. Sounds like the best model car kit! Hmmm...tempting.

Definitely bold. Glad you made it!

Congrats! Bummer on the low cylinder. I've learned to really address that sooner than later. I hoped it was just a weak gasket or something and it turned out to be a cracked piston.

Like a GT3576? Turbo nomenclature is so odd. Technically my turbo was also a 76mm turbo, but with a massive 57mm inducer I would say it was anything, but laggy. Almost like a supercharger with how quickly it built boost, but pulled all the way to a panic inducing redline. Also loosing over 1000lbs from the Mk4 supra to an early 240Z is nothing to laugh at, might actually be hurtful in some way since there will be less load to spool the turbo quickly. Always happy to talk shop!

Love whenever there is a build update!

I hear ya, if money isn't a problem then I would say the V160 would be a real nice transmission. The CD009 from the later 350z's are pretty stout. Shift feel is decent, they also make self centering shifters for them which I am an all out sucker for, would probably make it notchy, but shifting mid corner I love being 100% sure I am going into 3rd or 4th. Stock they are infinitely better than something like the R154. Triple synchro and built strong enough to take more power than any sane person would throw at it. I got mine for $700, my friend who bought his took his to a transmission place to have the bell housing machined and they said the inside looked like it was new with 100k+ miles on it. Keep in mind both from the person you linked and myself, looks like we moved our motor back quite a bit. If you play with the location of the motor and shifter kits I'm sure you could end up in the right area. I had the R154 on the very left of the picture and that was about 2 inches too far forward so looks like with the serial 9 kit that would put the V160 in the right area and my engine was similarly with the first and second runner between the shock towers. I will say I had a few people with LS and supercharged V8's give my car a spin, and they were surprised how quick it was. They were coming from mustangs and GTO's but you have to remember your shifting half the weight. A 2JZ with 20lbs of boost under 4k RPM is a real hoot. Upgrading to bigger turbo's would be a commitment to running more than 400+hp and I can say from personal experience the number of roads where you can go all out definitely start to shrink. With my NA L28 with 4.11 I was driving around all out under the speed limit. I could run the engine out and shift 4 times before getting to free way speeds.

Looks real good Omar, definitely the right choice!

I had heim joints on all 4 corners and it was quite tolerable. I found both my FWD cars had more NVH from poly engine mounts than any I would get from the suspension. It is a bit more darty, but that is expected taking out the slop. That kind of locking tube design though is not really good in these applications. They use them a lot on drift cars, but they tend to crack and loosen often. For a road car I'd rather stay with a more traditional style and take a bent tube over a stripped arm. The plate design is also concerning especially with there the load is. H arm styles are also not ideal as Leon states. Apex engineering makes a good RLCA from what I recall. The one I made served me well, but doing it again I would probably have made one like Jmortensen did with the toe link in front.

Picture is broken

For cheap ITB's the GSX-R throttle bodies were pretty popular in the Honda crowd. They come in groups of 4, but are repeating so you could modify as needed. Some carbs on a 2J would be neat, a lot of effort for not much power, but would be a fun project. 6 SU carbs with velocity stacks would look real neat, but you probably could make do with less. If you have a 2jzge the lower intake runner would be an excellent starting place, some custom adapters and you would be in business. Probably run a thinner head gasket or shave the head and run a bigger cam, might see bit over 200hp to the wheels. Keep in mind depending on the motor that may put you into interference territory if you were not before. Probably one of the few times a 2jz-ge VVTI setup would be preferential, granted then you have a VVTI you would have to lock or remove altogether just for the higher compression. Interesting for sure, keep us updated!

You can get a bell housing to run the T56 behind the 2jz would save you all kinds of effort. I think fitment kind of depends on the car. The early 240z's have the widest factory tunnel, I was able to fit my CD009 in there and only had to remove the transmission mounts, and mine is tucked way up there. Later 240z's and on will require the removal of the trans brace which sounds like you may have already done. ^That is an image from serial 9 (R154, V160 with their shifter, CD009 with their shifter, stock CD009), but according to that it looks like it would end up in the neighborhood of the stock area. My setup was was between the stock one and their shifter and it came up an inch or so into the choke cable recess area a few inches behind the stock shifter location. To play devil's advocate, LS motors can also be force fed..., but you won't have the rev limiter happiness and sound like a boosted 2j will have.

7m is great when it is running well. Make sure you have a dummy light or a good oil pressure gauge hooked up that you monitor religiously. A point to consider is a 7mge isn't that much better figure to figure compared to a L28E. I had a 7mgte JDM block without the oil squirters so I wanted to really go for it on the rebuild after blowing all the oil out on the freeway, but $800 for just the oil mods was a lot, on top of attempting to source a non-warped crank, and the subsequent micro fissures from the piston destruction kind of sealed the fate. My 2jz ended up being cheaper then the oil mods. Machine shop guy told me I was making the right choice, and even waved all the labor they had done on the 7m, and put it towards my 2jz if that is any indication of how happy they were for me. With that said, depends on how integrated you want everything to be. Without looking up the specs I don't know if the tach and speedo will communicate, but getting the engine running is as mentioned just a matter of a few wires to the Toyota harness. No one really likes to do wiring, but if you don't want to be chasing gremlins down the road, buy some decent tools and learn how to do it yourself, or shell out the money for a professional, although that may end up costing more than you have into both cars depending on where you go.

Welcome to the forum, some of the pictures don't work, but looks like a fun project!