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seattlejester

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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. Genuinely fascinating, we might have to play around with solid mounts when we do badjuju's motor.
  2. Welcome, I think it should read, ..."potential rust areas, sanded down, cut out, new material welded in, seam sealed, primered and then painted/bed-linered." Very rarely with these cars do they have surface rust that can just be sanded down. I suggest that the plan be to weld in new steel, and be surprised when you don't have to. It is much easier that way, then the other way around. Headlights are a bit of a ways off, I think it best you read a little more reading regarding the matter, it helps if you know the correct terminology regarding the items you are discussing. Generally speaking a cheap plastic housing with cheap glass as found on ebay has a fairly high probability of cracking, especially with the sugar scoop headlight buckets our cars have, and as mentioned does have problems with being sealed against moisture. With that said, you can purchase some pretty complete ones that are popular for other cars with 7 inch housings, like jeeps that come with HID bulbs already installed with wiring harnesses and relays to help with the wiring process. I know for a fact, the city light that most of the housings on ebay come with will not work, as the stock headlight housing sits in a metal bowl, and will not have room for the city/driving light to stick out of, unless you drill out the aiming bowl to accommodate. Regarding the addition of the globe: The stock housings can't really be taken apart as it is a sealed beam assembly. You would have to buy an H4 7 inch housing and put in a projector (or as you call it the globe), and then convert that bulb into an HID bulb. Or as mentioned above, buy a pre-converted housing with a projector inside. Very popular projector housings come from the new Mini Cooper's and Acura TSX's, although any modern projector housings should give you very clean cut offs if you retrofit (<-the act of putting porjector housings in reflective bulb assemblies) them correctly. I think two companies make complete swap kits for our cars. Those would be the most complete way to get HID's without blinding anybody. Although they would be pricey. Granted a real projector retrofit can easily be pushed into the expensive categories depending on how crazy/what features you want for it. Alternatively you could get the H4 housings, and use an H4 HID bulb and make sure to use eye lids on the glass and adjust the aiming bowls to make sure you don't blind incoming traffic. Regarding high beams, the only way to get high beams in an h4 housing is to have a sliding bulb. Basically a separate signal actuates the movement of the bulb which I believe pulls it further away from the reflective surface and increases the light output/bypasses the cutoff to give you high beams. This unfortunately makes the bulb itself much larger and will necessitate quite an extensive amount of material removal from the aiming bowl. Which will need to be sealed after the bulb is placed in to prevent moisture and dirt from being thrown inbetween the glass housing and the aiming bowl. I have also seen very rarely a dual filament HID bulb with a traditional halogen bulb sitting next to the HID bulb that sits a bit further back and accomplishes the same role.
  3. Avernier: Really? No vibrations? Or is it just an acceptable amount? I am really quite curious, I mulled it over for a bit, but having been in some polyurethane mounted cars I decided against it. I'm a big fan of hard mounting, especially for launches and motion transfer perspective, but usually the vibrations end up driving me nuts. Did you have to hardmount the rest of the driveline as well? And by your own cross member, do you mean that you just forgo the factory cross member and put a new cross member further down stream? Or do you mean like the betamotorsports crossmember where it goes on top of the existing crossmember? Always nice to see different perspectives.
  4. Thanks! I really am hoping that it is worth all the trouble. Wired up the alternator with the relocation bracket to communicate with the datsun harness, seems to be pretty happy. Car has power now. Moved the fan controller to one side, and kind of tucking/relocating wires as I go. I have power going to the secondary fuse box to power the megasquirt/spark/injectors/fuel pump/extra accessories. I am thinking that I will wire everything up/make sure everything works, and then go about hard mounting everything. Right now I am stuck on welding some bungs to my intercooler pipe for the BOV and the IAT sensor. I have a friend who had 3 ways of bonding aluminum, (spool gun, TIG, and oxy acetylene) but on the day I went over, the TIG died, the spool gun could not be found, and the proper adapter for the oxy was missing. Anyone local know where I can get a few bungs welded? Right now the alternative is using the alumiweld rods if I can't find a shop that does aluminum welding. It's dipped into below freezing this past week. So probably no progress till this weekend. Goal is to have this squared away by the end of the year, and it doesn't seem too hard of a goal to meet. Total hours spent 90 hours.
  5. Please note this is not really the x distance you requested, this is to where the cross member meets the frame rail in the engine bay, the cross member actually mounts on the other side of the fender near the wheels. Was too cold to go crawling around under there.
  6. 19.5 inches to the back edge of the cross member from the firewall 495.3mm give or take 3-5mm. I have pictures I will upload later.
  7. Looks great, keep up the pace! Good choice on connecting the dump, open dumps are fun, but it's pretty bloody loud.
  8. I am almost positive that all the 240-280z's run a distributor run ignition signal, kind of foggy right now, mid day drowsiness, but pretty sure that they all have a distributor to run the ignition. I am kind of confused as to why you would need a TPS signal in a draw through setup. The stock system uses an AFM instead of a TPS, and adding a TPS in a draw through carb setup seems strange. Essentially you won't have any computer controlling anything, you would be getting boost while staying all analog. Having some kind of boost ignition retard would be preferable. I believe MSD does make a boost ignition retard box that can retard the distributor signal. Which motor do you have? What are the specifics? If the plan is to get all ebay stuff, you really can't blame anything for failing, in fact unless you have experience with specific turbo's or manifolds you may be setting yourself up for failure. I've seen ebay turbo's work very rarely, a used quality turbo or even a rebuilt junkyard turbo isn't much more expensive, I would definitely lean towards that. You could probably find a 280zx turbo manifold for cheap as well, and it would be guaranteed to bolt up, not 100% sure if you have round ports, but if you have square ports definitely. If you are on a budget, there are quite a few ways to make the car a little faster and much more enjoyable and those options may be more appropriate, as starting a draw thru project can eat up a lot of time and can put the car out of commission until everything is sorted. With that said, it has been done, usually with an aftermarket manifold, the plumbing would get complicated if you tried to use the stock EFI manifold. The compressor outlet has to be routed to the inlet on the EFI manifold, and on top of that you have to mount the carb in front of the turbo, and feed that into the inlet of the turbo, space becomes quite the challenge. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48/cjh1452000/Carburetor2.jpg The most frugal setup I've seen is someone used the stock exhaust manifold, and ran a pipe all the way to the front, mounted a small turbo, a bored out SU carb, and then routed it to the stock carb manifolds via a split tube. It is a neat little project, it does require quite the intricate knowledge of all the parts that go into building a turbo system, more so since you won't get the precision you get with electronic control. You have to know what each system does, and then figure out a way to do it without using the easy method. Fuel for instance, in a normal boosted car, you would use a rising rate or boost referenced fuel pressure regulator to up the pressure as you up the boost and increase the injector duty cycle, in a draw thru setup more vacuum is applied to the carb and more fuel is drawn thru the turbo. Since you can't just increase pressure to a carb to get additional fuel there since carbs don't like high fuel pressures, you have to increase the fuel line size and source a high volume low pressure pump. An alternative method to meet each circumstance has to be solved, if you are up for the challenge and have the knowledge base to pursue it, it is a pretty fun task. Some things to consider are that off boost, the path the fuel has to travel before making it to the intake is quite long, pooling fuel in the compressor housing, heat soak, and so on. Good luck!
  9. You can replace the motor with one from a honda accord or a civic, the years escape me, but I think 90's. You have to redrill the holes/lengthen them on the wiper motor mount bracket, but other than that it's a pretty good fit, atlantic z has the wiring diagram and the years for the motor.
  10. Wow, looks pretty well put together. There's also a suck through carb turbo setup floating around as well.
  11. Thanks for the reply. I had a condensed diagram when I was in the garage so it was hard to make out exactly what was what, but I have been looking at a blown up one on the computer. I think you might be right about that! When I looked at the diagram the only yellow wires I saw were to the tank unit and the voltage regulator and both of those didn't make any sense. I think if I probably cleaned the wire a bit I will find that it is the water temp wire Yellow with white stripe. So for the future. Coming off the driver side headlight harness is a small bundle of 4 wires in an early 240z. The 4 wires are: Black with white # 1 = 12 volt ignition signal during key on Black with white # 2 = 12 volt ignition signal during cranking Green with white = On with cranking, bypasses the ballast resistor, sends full voltage to the coil during cranking Yellow with white = coolant temperature sender wire, sender grounds through thermostat housing
  12. 287mm is what the fsm looks like it is saying for a 240z-280z. Not 100% sure, I can take a ruler and verify it tomorrow.
  13. I think I figured most of it out. Black with white wire #1 active with key in on position Black with white wire#2 active when key in crank/start position Green and white wire active when key in crank/start position Yellow active with key in on position Both black with white wire I believe is power to the distributor, one is on during the ignition on (second click) and the other is on during cranking, that way ignition is on during both times). Green and white wire is I believe the ballast resistor power to send full voltage to the distributor during cranking. 280zx distributor or newer ignition this is not needed, thus the black wire and the green wire that are both active when the key is in crank position should be tied together. Yellow I am still not sure about. Potentially I think it is direct power to the distributor.
  14. Howdy, At a garage at the moment with only my phone to look for info. I am trying to ID what the 4 wires coming to the front of the engine bay area. Car is a 1971 240z. I have the wiring diagram, but it gets a little confusing in the distributer area. 4 wires in question they come out of the wiring harness and connect to the distributor area. Black with white stripe Yellow Green with white stripe Black with white stripe (second wire) What I've figured out. One of the black with white wire 12 volt with ignition on (I've been splicing the ignition signal from this wire). Yellow continuity to ground, either power or ground wire. Green with white, I believe this gets power to charge the coil with a full 12v during cranking. No continuity Black with white stripe wire number 2 I think this also gives an ignition signal but during cranking? I guess if anyone knows what the wires do exactly it would be much appreciated.
  15. ^If the floors are not rusty, I don't see why they wouldn't be able to have the rails welded properly. The stock sheet metal is around 20 gauge, and the bad dog rails are I believe 18 or 16 gauge. If you start on the bad dog rail and weld to the floor you can greatly diminish your chance of blowing through. Bolts and washers would be a way to do it, and it would work, but it wouldn't be ideal, and I think it is important that we don't put out those ideas, as they can be taken incorrectly very easily. Imagine if someone went out and used cheap hardware, one big bump and all the hardware could snap, not something you would want to be credited with the idea for. The floors are not as structural as the roof or the rockers, but the frame rail is. And as the frame rail attaches to the floor it in turn is structural. Not to mention it also supports the seat mounts which are really important. Even though the seat mounts are welded to the side of the transmission tunnel and the rocker, it still is welded to the floor as well. That and it helps support the transmission tunnel in place which holds the transmission, cut out both floors and you can bend the transmission tunnel quite a bit. johnc: That's a pretty good hint, I always underestimate the laser level. In the interest of discussion, could I ask if you choose to cap the bent/rusting rail when you did them in the past? Or do you prefer to cut out the old rotting rail? If you cut out the rail, do you leave the floor portion of it on top as in just cutting out the sides? Or do you cut out the top and patch the floor? I've seen a few done, and I usually see either a cap, or a full floor and rail replacement, I'm kind of curious what decides which route you would do.
  16. Sucks to hear about the VEMS, no hope in salvaging it in any way? Glad to hear the car is running gives me hope that it can be done, I should be installing my MS2 this weekend .
  17. It's dipping into freezing over here. Making working on cars a real chore. 2400 for a remanufactured motor with all the accessories isn't too bad at all. I would guess though that it is just for the long block, no manifolds/turbos/electrics etc. Piecing those pieces together might just pay for the donor car in the long run. I've seen the ads for the l28et's over here and they are usually inflated without good reason. Unless it is exceptionally clean or built up a bit, they really shouldn't bee that high. You usually see the same ads up again and again. A few of the 280zx turbo's on the other hand I have seen anywhere from 200-700$, some even running! Getting a running car would be great since you can fix any potential problems to the driveline before swapping it into the car. Biggest advice is don't spend any money until your plan is complete to the last detail, and keep looking around. Who knows, you might find a screaming deal on something that shifts the direction of the whole project, especially being over in Japan. Good luck!
  18. Find a local friend , where abouts were you located? Best thing would be to modularize. As pharaohabq suggested, get very familiar with both fsm's and divide the tasks into modules and skill groups you can read up to learn up on. That way when you return you can just take on one module at a time. Like so: Task: Fitting the motor Summary: The l28et motor will physically fit into the engine bay, will need a way to remove old engine and install new engine Skills needed: how to tighten and torque bolts Tools needed: Engine crane, leveler, possible some wood blocks, hand tools, torque wrench. Considerations: Mark where the bolts sit when removing hood to ensure accurate fitment. Drain and remove radiator to allow extra clearance. Will need an adequate space to raise crane to remove and install engine, check garage beams, may have to source new mounts to replace old worn mounts. May have to have car up on blocks so crane can come out once engine compresses suspension. Make sure to keep 280z engine mounts as 280zx engine mounts sit differently. More complex example Task: Wiring Summary: Wiring L28et engine into 280z harness Skills needed: literacy with a multimeter, soldering, crimping, mapping Tools needed: soldering iron, multimeter, FSM manual, hybridz l28et into early z car thread, extra wiring in variety of colors, crimps, long alligator clips Considerations: May need to source new or tested backup bits, even the newest l28et is 30 years old, replacement ECCS, distributor, AFM, injectors, etc etc. Make sure to use a new battery to ensure good charge, make sure to keep battery above 12volts by using a charger if testing electricals for long periods of time. Before firing, ensure engine is in tdc as is distributor wheel and head. Make sure to crank engine without spark to cycle oil into engine and turbo. Making such a list for each task or module you want to tackle will make the whole project seem very progressive. Having a list of problems that could go wrong ahead of time and the appropriate location to look for a solution will save you from panicking and waiting for help or asking questions that have already been answered.
  19. You have to keep in mind welding in the frame rails means overhead welding which is some of the most tedious welding, having slag run down your shirt isn't exactly fun. I think having the customer prep everything and bring it in isn't a bad idea, it doesn't lead to accusations of overcharging since you will see exactly the extent of the damage that has to be removed or any extra bits of floor they will have to patch. Usually if the frame rail is rusted out there's some more damage hidden elsewhere. For the price I think it depends on the extent of the work. Someone local had a quote for 3000 for floors and frame rails just to cut/install/primer. I wouldn't think 2000 would be ludicrous to drop off the car and have them do frame rails and maybe patch up some parts of the floor and put it all back together and drive away. 500-1000 doesn't sound too bad for just capping the frame rails, depending on how thurough they are. For a total complete replacement: Figure an hour or two to take out the interior without breaking anything (seeing how it is an old car, I could see them wanting the owner to do this so they don't break anything pricey like the center console) Figure two hours to strip the sound deadening from the floor Figure another 2-3 hours to sand/chip remnants and out line cut area Remove fuel, possibly brake lines, an hour or so here. Then lift the car and start sanding/chipping away under coat another 2 hours minimum here, more if you have to go all the way back to the rear sub frame. Hour to cut out the metal, most likely some of the floor will have to come out if you are trying to root out the rust. Weld in frame rail, if they do an imitated spot weld ~1 hour if they predrilled the holes, if they do seam welding ~3 hours, keep in mind this is overhead/out of position welding, some of the most tedious kind other than cramped interior welding. Seal rail with seam sealer Re-undercoat bottom of car Reinstall fuel and brake lines Lower car Spray interior Re apply sound deadening Reinstall interior Check that car still runs That's a good 20 hours in labor there. Asking you to do a majority of the labor may be a kindness rather than charging 80-120$ an hour. 800-900 for just the welding portion seems to be a bit on the high side, but the frame rails are pretty long so it is quite a bit of welding and the inevitable fitting. If you want to see if they really want you to go away, ask how they are planning on welding it in, spot welds, plug welds, seam welds? How clean the metal has to be, what the turn around is. If the guy can't give you answers he probably doesn't really want the work at the moment, and you probably don't want to give it to him as it may sit on the back burner for a while. On the flip side, a simple cap job at the bare minimum: Pull out seats Lift car Move fuel lines to the side Clean just the two strips of area along the frame rail you need to put the cap on Weld cap in, have someone standing by with fire extinguisher to put out the sound deadening that will catch on fire Can't imagine being charge more than 300$ for such a service, granted the amount of work you will have to do afterwards would be quite extensive, and the smell of burning sound deadening is pretty atrocious. There would also be no guarantees or warrantees with such an install, so you kind of get what you pay for. If you have a bit of a welding experience, and you are willing/wanting to take on a bigger project, find a mentor/friend who has done this type of repair and have him help you along, you would be surprised what your neighbors/friends might know.
  20. I believe the steering column is ribbed to crush in the Z. I think I also have the same adapter, I was with you on the whole it's too close to the chest thing. But it actually makes driving a bit easier at slow speeds since you can get a little more torque on the wheel.
  21. ^I bet you if you ask they don't. I looked for one for a while, had my order confirmed then canceled a half dozen times. Tried O'reiley, autozone, napa, summit, ebay, rockauto, even went direct to cardone and such but every where that said they had it turned out they didn't when they checked the stock. Eventually had to have mine shipped in and rebuilt, I was told that it was registered in their system as in stock, and they had to cancel a bunch of orders since it was already sold (back to me). They even included a picture of it as a reference for when they took it apart at the factory. Congrats to the OP on the snag!
  22. 3/8 seems big enough from my fuel calculator as long as the nitrous shot isn't a huge amount. If you wanted to go all out you could always run a separate line from that plugged port on the fuel cell, but that would be for something pretty crazy like a 200 shot and a pretty hopped up 350. I think a roll of 3/8 aluminum line enough for the whole car is like 20$ and 4xAN to 3/8 conversion fitting is another 10$ a piece. I think a roll of 3/8 rubber tube was 35$ so it compares pretty nicely.
  23. Agreed with above, the pictures are nice, but the routing is a bit confusing. Also I'm not sure this is the right forum. I think the chevy subforum would be preferred traffic wise. My initial thought is, that's a lot of gauges. If I'm reading it right, 350 is carb'd and you are planning on running nitrous? In addition based off of the barbs, you are planning on routing rubber line all the way front and back except for right next to the engine? If possible routing aluminum hardline or AN lines would be preferred, from both a safety stand point and a longevity stand point. Most tech people don't like to see long bits of rubber fuel line, especially if it starts at the fuel cell and goes all the way to the front on top of exhaust pipes and stuff. For the vent line, I would illustrate a coil to indicate that you have at least some roll over protection, or add a roll over valve to the vent line. Other than that it looks fairly complete, the diameter of the hoses/an sizes would be useful as well as how much power you plan on making.
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