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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. To bore or not to bore

    I think I would like to see more spacing as in a faster up and down movement more helixy less springy, but honestly for a hand hone you shouldn't expect perfection. Yea....that piston is done. That doesn't bode well for the rest of the engine I imagine. The problem as chickenman says is going to be re-ringing it. Make sure you get a sufficient size ring. I can't imagine you actually bored out a size, but best to check. If you plan on running 500hp like you say, make sure you have an appropriate ring gap. Now would also be the time to maybe look at GTE internals if your engine was a VVTI GE. The bummer is with the piston in that condition, you really are going to want to have the block, head, and crank flushed realistically. Bits of metal can really screw with oil pressure and lubrication. In addition the crank apparently can store quite a bit of crud even after being cleaned, so right now I imagine it is quite guncked. I believe real street has a very good video on how to clean out the crank AFTER it has been professionally cleaned, and how to install it correctly to prevent crank walk so keep that in mind.
  2. 1.2JZ into a 280Z build.

    Hmm, floor mounts for the trans then? Or some plates further near the tail of the trans that move forward?
  3. To bore or not to bore

    Those marks don't happen naturally. What does the corresponding piston/piston ring look like? Bottom line is if it is a scratch it will affect engine life. Kind of a cost/benefit type situation. I've seen people ignore things because they can't afford it, end up having to replace or rebuild it later and not finish the project because of a lack of funds, I've seen people overbuild spend all of their budget making sure things are 10/10 and never getting around to finishing. I don't think you will be able to get all of it out with a hone tool. Hone tool is really just there to kind of restore the finish not to bore out scratches. You can try and see, for $20-40 it isn't a bad way to see if you can get it good enough. I will say I don't know many places that loan dingle ball hones, the three stone hones are a bit harder to get a nice pattern with so buying the right size dingle ball hone might be a better idea. Build a booth and wear a shirt you don't care about it will make a mess. Remember never to stop in the cylinder and maintain a rapid up and down motion continuing to spin as you pull it out or you will leave vertical scratches.
  4. Yay an update! Woohoo another one on the road. Zproblem? Like ze problem mein frauline is ze car uses up all my money
  5. In reality though, how often do you change the track width of the car? Edit: ^sorry that seemed a bit more combative then I meant for it. Genuine curiosity. I can't even come close to say I do many duties with my car, so curious how often does one change the track width? More for different tracks? More for different sets of tires? Or is it just one of those they were there, they could have just added it as a feature type things? Kind of planning my next set of arms and would like to incorporate what I can.
  6. Tires 225/45/15 or 225/50/15

    Hmm I'm not finding any. I'm not sure what tire size I was looking at. Maybe 215/60/15? http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/215-60R15 Couple more choices, no ultra summers though.
  7. Supra 440cc injector CLIPS

    I bought the bottom slots according to my receipt. They look like they do on the website. http://www.driftmotion.com/Denso-Bottom-Slot-Conn-F2-p/dm1611.htm A bit of hackery, but if you have the denso clips, but they just have the wrong slot, you can shave the ears off of the injector.
  8. Ford 8.8 IRS swap v2.0

    I agree, just pointing out a potential downfall even though minor, how many of us have stuck spindle pins and need to change out our suspension often? Probably very very few.
  9. Supra 440cc injector CLIPS

    Driftmotion sells new ones with pig tails or with pins, that is where I got mine. You can also keep an eye out for RX-7 injector clips as they also run the same type of connector. Miata guys like to run the rx7 injectors so they usually are floating around.

    Did you have to do anything with the mounting holes? Or was it a direct fit? I recall you mentioned the 280z booster and the size in your brake performance thread, but then I saw Tamo and Dexter both say the 280zx boosters fit. Looks like they both have 280z's and those may have had a bigger spot? Then again, I read on classic Z that all boosters are interchangeable from 70-83 so I'm a bit confused.
  11. Another S30 on Jay Leno's garage

    I think they make pretty low torque numbers. John Coffey said he didn't think it would be a problem for street driving, but once you start putting work into it from corners is when you would want to start regularly replacing fluid and maybe look at a diff cooler.

    ^Do you happen to have the year? I'm thinking up upping my brake booster with my 15/16 master as well
  13. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    It is of merit to ponder. Forums like ours are probably visited a lot more, but people look over, take information they need, and depart. Then there is an active group that relishes in putting down this forum, not sure what happened in the past, but our stricter ruleset may have rubbed them the wrong way, and they champion their mistreatment on every forum and platform the they visit, seems like every two weeks someone posts a helpful link from hybrid on social media and someone chimes in about how they were banned many years ago. RX-7 forums I recall had an interesting setup, where it would allow you to browse 2-3 threads before it locked you out until you made an account. Before you could make a post you had to introduce yourself and generate 3 helpful comments before being allowed to start a new topic. Arduous for sure, but takes about 5 mins, and forces people to give before they take in a sense. Things people could do? Not sure, the trend is really for instant gratification. You can get responses in minutes vs hours on social media. Time wise I'm not sure the forum format can compete unless people have notifications on their phones and are motivated to answer, whether that is internet cookie points or what not. Things that still seem to be visited are local forums and BST's on other forums. Someone did suggest, but maybe a couple more select sub forums might be useful? Z33 AKA 350z+ cars with engine swaps. Maybe some select local forums? It seems like a couple of use are clustered, it would be useful for posting local events or calls for help or useful resources in the area.
  14. MCM S30 video

    I was kind of bummed they didn't talk about the whole S-chassis thing. Would have been an interesting talking point and a connection to the cars they have built.
  15. MCM S30 video

    Just saw this on my feed. Mighty car mods guys buy an S30
  16. Ford 8.8 IRS swap v2.0

    That design would work, although it would make pulling just the suspension require dropping the diff as well or leave it hanging on just the rear mounts. Doesn't happen often, but could be troublesome if you had a stuck spindle pin and wanted to change shocks or if you were using the differential as the jacking point (that's happened before). Same off topic, regarding the incident in question, apparently the guy who copied the design never purchased the set apparently or was given the design. He asked and was told they weren't ready or available so he took the idea, made his own measurements from axles, made crucial fixes and indeed made his own and produced them. Tried to make it right by offering the seller the design but that ended poorly. Only reason worth clarifying is to not raise defenses on anecdotal interpretation. Bringing it back on topic, I think it does raise a point. Those sharing in good faith like several with build threads or production threads like this one are at risk of intellectual theft, but the benefit is that you get active feedback from frankly really talented people, and this does also set precedent showing the idea existing prior. Also I think it is useful in that it keeps projects in check. I think someone offered a mount kit a while back that was too simple for the price. Any knowledgeable fabricator can make a perfectly suitable mount, the benefit here is that someone has taken the time to do so, if the piece is too simple and someone decides to charge a ludicrous amount, you can get a reality check which can help future sales.
  17. 280z FP Build

    Hmm then there goes that idea, anytime I'm under 30% fuel, sharp decel will audibly cause a change in the fuel pump. That would be really cool, a chance to get properly schooled!
  18. 280z FP Build

    Yay an update! Have you had any problems with the foam deteriorating in the fuel cell? Hope to see you out at the autocross this year!
  19. MS2 3.0 w/ MS2extra No Spark

    Ah, for our benefit then, carry on.
  20. MS2 3.0 w/ MS2extra No Spark

    Please also insulate the resistors. Or tape them up at least. One big bump and I can see the components shorting.
  21. Ah interesting. I was thinking from a multimeter perspective. I imagine the draw would indeed be minute given that multimeters usually run off tiny battery cells.
  22. 1.2JZ into a 280Z build.

    I've got part of a shower drain as part of my setup.... Goodness that looks snazzy.
  23. I love reading through the old discussion threads. I've thought the same with the extra degree of freedom I think I even posted on how I didn't understand, and I built my own A-arms. I think we like to look for extra degrees of freedom, but don't factor in things like the strut being bolted in having a limit in movement and length as well as the axles and such. Bottom line is it works, the wheels don't do anything crazy when you accelerate or brake, I do plan on throwing on a camera to try some slow motion of a launch eventually.
  24. Congrats on getting it running. It shouldn't be reading all the time. There should be three wires, a power, a ground, and a read. From the characteristics it looks like you have the read and power wire switched. The read wire can have constant power as it only serves to differentiate from the charge to the ground. The power wire should be on the ignition so that it is off when you pull the key.
  25. Hmm something doesn't quite look right on that. From what I've read, you either have a voltage gauge, a dummy light, OR a resistor. Looks like you have all 3. I also would like to see a big gauge wire with a bigger fuse go to the junction, having it feed in front of the fusible link seems like it would limit the amperage. If the alternator and battery are good, it can be one of 3 things. The wires are not thick enough to carry the current (wires would get real hot, fuses would probably blow) The wiring is incorrect you have a feedback loop or something The voltage regulator is not getting the correct signal, so it is not telling the alternator to continue to charge. Found this little diagram. Your diagram doesn't quite match up there.