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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. seattlejester

    Saturn Electric Power Steering In A Datsun 280Z

    I'm following in socorob's foot steps. I think it would be appropriate to add things here. If you want me to make my own thread I'm happy to do so, but I think adding onto this may be useful. So some things I've found: That joint from woodward steering isn't really sold anywhere else. You have to order it through them, and they do not have an online store so you have to call them or e-mail them to order. Joint was $86.25. about $70 for the part and apparently the remaining was shipping. Not bad for the exact piece you need. The R18Z bearing is a 1-1/8 inch ID, 2-1/8 inch OD bearing. The R18 is the designation for the bearing dimensions the Z stands for single shield, 2Z or ZZ stands for double shield. They have a variant with I think R as in R18R which has a rubber seal instead of the metal shield. If you were being super correct about it you would probably order an R18 open, weld as needed, and then fill the bearings with grease and close it off with boots on both ends. Socorob also put in a butt load of work finding that exhaust pipe and part number. Strangely enough the 2-1/8th inch OD for the bearing makes finding a tube with an ID of a similar size very difficult to find. My local supplier has it in stock, but wants $20+ per foot. You can buy a thick wall tube of smaller diameter and use the correct bit to ream it out to 2/18 at the depth of the bearing and find a cap for a perfect fit, but most likely not worth the effort. You can order the 3/4 DD shaft in 18 inch length on amazon which seems almost perfect. The bruno controller can be purchased on ebay for $45 + 10$ shipping. I would suggest picking this up potentially soon if you have any thoughts. He seems to be populating/building a website and the prices are quite a bit higher at $85 for the basic controller. He also seems to be adjusting prices as some prices changed over the weekend. The website is epowersteering.com if I'm not mistaken. He also offers 3 options for just the controller: One is the basic kit with the separate potentiometer. Two is the advance kit which has a built in potentiometer. Three is the pro kit which has no potentiometer. This one apparently reads input and adjusts the assistance. In an e-mail conversation he suggested sticking with the basic kit for spirited driving. Most likely a savings over the advanced kit and the pro kit has a delay before reacting which may throw someone who is doing a quick correction off as the effort varies in say a fast chicane. Hoping to order the last of the parts and grab some columns tomorrow. I have a stock column that I'll be making a jig off of and using thanks to zetsaz
  2. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    It looks pretty, but your downpipe running is going to be a bit awkward with the waste gate in the way.
  3. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    The black sensor on the passenger side is the neutral position switch. I think it would be safe just to cut the plastic and the tabs off. Reverse switch is on the driver side and is a light blue color. Drive shaft yoke apparently is a Spicer 3503-323 (only online verified, I'll have to ask at the drive shaft store) Energy Suspension GM style polyurethane mount should work, may require a bit of filing for the spacing. 3.1108R or 3.1108G is almost 2 inches tall at 1 15/16 inch. 3.1158R or 3.1158G is the same mount but lower profile and comes in at 1 5/8 inch tall. There is a 3.1142R and 3.1142G, but it does not have the diagrams. Additionally you can apparently use the Z32 (300zx) style mounts. Those are more interesting in that it is a plate with side rubber forward and aft. Or you can stick with the stock mount. Example of the shortened stock shifter. You can't do more without changing the selector shaft to receive like a ball and socket for the pivot action.
  4. While relatively fresh on my mind. Please feel free to correct! Got a chance to do a few measurements on the CD009 and a 280z. Also compiled some measurements based off of my R154 in my 240z. Early 240z 70, 71, 72 will physically fit an R154 unaltered, CD009 will fit unaltered per Exposed's picture. R154 CD009 via Exposed Thanks to body measurements we know the mounts on the body sit about 86mm off the floor pans. The top of the trans tunnel sits about 285mm off the floor Trans mount holes are 310mm apart center to center Flange for the mount is roughly 40x40mm, although the outside edge is tapered by trans tunnel as can be seen on exposed's mounts 23 inches of room from fire wall to trans mount or 584mm, the closest recorded measurement I have on the diagram is 622.5mm to the TC bucket from the trans mounts. Later 240z, 260z, and 280z will need the trans brace removed to fit. They have about 8 inches of space near where the trans cross member bolts through. They can have sufficient room similar to the 240z with the trans brace removed, maybe more with in some regards with the catalytic converter hump. Measurement CD009 R154 Total length 40 28 keep in mind the CD009 has a tripod shifter while the R154 ends at a dust shield for the output Face to output 29 27 Face to trans mount center 27 25 Rear box dimension 10w X 12h 9.51w x ?h widest portion of the rear of tranny. Trans mount bolt pattern 2 bolts 4.25 apart 4 bolts at a V like ~3 inch apart? Shifter sits ~5 backwards? ~5 forward? Early chassis trans mount bolt spacing 310mm Early chassis trans mount span, 270mm (310mm bolt spacing, 40mm pads, 310-20x2=270) Technically almost 11 inches, but the mounts are kind of rounded so probably closer to 10.5 or 10 inches. Late chassis trans mount bolt spacing ~250mm 10 inches Late chassis trans mount span, ~200mm 8 inches This was eyeballed measurements on an uncut CD009. Make sure to factor in the adapter plate width which is an additional 0.625 The following are just my thoughts for swapping from my R154 to a CD009 using collins adapters adapter. My transmission sits almost flush if not a bit recessed in the trans tunnel, easily verified with the firewall to chassis trans mount measurement the offset nature of my mount and the measurement of the face to the trans mount. 25 (face to trans mount of R154) - 23 (firewall to chassis trans mount) - 2 (trans mount offset). Exposed's trans mount is not offset and his transmission face sits 4 inches proud of the firewall + 0.625 inch for the adapter plate I imagine. With the serial 9 shifter relocate which puts the shifter at about 32 inches or so it is a suggested perfect fit. The factory cd009 shifter can with stand being shortened about 4 inches via eye balling and the shifter sits about 1.5 inches in front of the rear Total length is about 34 inches from the face to the shifter hole via that method, using an offset shifter I can get back to 32 inch territory. The question is can I pull the trans further into the trans tunnel. While the engine obviously can move forward 4.625 inches from where it sits since that is how Exposed is running his setup, that would mean new engine mounts, which in all honesty I am not opposed against, but with that comes intercooler pipe shortening exhaust lengthening, coolant line shortening, hopefully the fuel lines reach as well as the wiring. Looking at 2j-z on youtube, although his car is a 280z, he welded his cross member back pretty much under the shifter hole. His engine also sits about the same as mine does with the shock tower between cylinder 1 and 2. In the spirit of stream of consciousness, that would be a problem since as it is right now I can only loosen my bell housing bolts with an angled wrench. With an adapter pushing that back even further short of access holes on the inside of the car I would have to drop the trans mount and tilt it down to get access to the top bolts. Assuming it would fit the early chassis without butchering up the factory mount brackets. Not going to fly, so plan will be to move the engine forward about 2 inches as of now. That means an off set cross member with holes spanning 310mm across and about 50 mm or so back from the trans mount holes. That will also pull the shifter out of the ash tray area and not require me to fabricate or buy the CBF forward mount shifter, instead moving the bucket forward 4 inches or so and then using a 2 inch offset to push the shifter forward. In theory given the 310mm bolt hole spacing found in the FSM, and the additional 40mm mount width, that should leave a space of roughly 270mm or slightly less. that should mean the big bulge in the back of the trans should be able to be off set rearward. Only physical measurements would argue otherwise.
  5. Hmm the bending in the fuse means it was using quite a few amps of the rating. Question is was it going to blow and something else went first. Continuity setting is your friend in tracing wires. If I knew more about the 280z wiring harness I would offer advice. On a friend's honda, he installed an LED backwards for one of the interior lights and shorted his entire interior light circuit. We replaced the fuse and it blew again. Found the bulb, flipped it and it stopped blowing.
  6. Paint scraper I think is the go to. Usually made out of stainless so it is pretty hard, angle it so it acts as a ramp. Employ two, one on each side and push the upright down. Heat can make them a bit more pliable, but really you don't want them to deform. If that doesn't work you can shave a little bit off. The arms can come in a bit if you tighten it, but you have to make sure you don't take too much off or it will want to bind the sleeve to the pin.
  7. seattlejester

    Exposed's 1jz Build

    It would be better to figure out what is going on before just throwing parts at it. Visually firing coils using an inline spark tester is super easy and will answer soooo many questions. I went with the 1ZZFE smart coils. They are awfully tall, but they throw a good spark, cheap, and available used or new.
  8. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    Definitely better at least in waste gate priority and transitions. https://www.theturboforums.com/attachments/wastegateplacement-jpg.660044/ https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/337259d1327631255-does-mount-orientation-wastegate-matter-precisionmanual.jpg The question or concern is if that gets in the way of feasibility in either manufacturing or locating it is probably going to take a back seat. Your welder is definitely going to be planning your murder.
  9. Hello, Welcome to the forum. You posted in the FAQ section which does not allow posting. Please take a moment to make sure you are posting in the technical section that allows posting. That looks a bit high. Did he make sure not to torque the components until they had load on them? Or at least set to operating range? New springs and such will settle, but bushings holding the car up seems to be a potential binding issue. Hard to tell without a previous photo or a shot of some of the work.
  10. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    Less 90* off the collector would be nice. Ideally putting the waste gates where the turbo flange is and curving the turbo flange further down stream, although I'm sure packaging comes into play and with adequate boost control probably a fairly moot point. ^a really nice example, although pretty much infinite room to play with compared to ours. The AR size seems quite large, I feel like a drop in 0.1 wouldn't be an issue with a twin scroll setup would probably even help spool. I don't have my sizing chart to compare, but what are we looking for power band wise and flow wise? To me that seems like a bit of a peaky setup with a power band in the upper RPM's if memory serves. I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean how the twin scroll is working when you waste through the turbine housing? I mean the stock wastegate on the EFR turbos waste through the turbine housing, more in line then on the outer portion of course though. I imagine you get most of the benefits of the exhaust being separated all the way to the turbine housing so you benefit from not having interfering pulses and gain the benefits of the exhaust speed. Once you have to bleed the waste gas you are essentially past your desired turbine speed, so loosing the benefits of the twin scroll by having a single wastegate port that more or less merges them in the waste stream is almost more beneficial in that you loose that divorced benefit as well as removing the volume.
  11. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    Moved as requested. I'd love to see a manifold with high wastegate priority. Seems like it always takes a back seat. An interesting trend is to make the twin scroll and add the wastegate to the turbine housing. Maximum priority, and at that point wasting the gas via merge shouldn't affect the pulse of the twin scroll in theory. The twin wastegates is pretty interesting keeping it completely divorced. A bit harder for me to swallow though, even cheap name brand wastegates are going to be expensive. Two cheap ones would be more than one ver nice large one. I feel like your welder might shoot you. Trying to get a tig torch down between the flange or where some of those joints are is going to require quite a long stick out.
  12. seattlejester

    Wide body build thread! Fiberglass Mafia kit MOLDED

    The kit looks like it sits pretty low on the body, curious how it will look all together. Keep up the good work!
  13. seattlejester

    1.2JZ into a 280Z build.

    ^Huh that seems to have a bit of an interesting tilt to it. Like leaned over to the passenger side and the center line tilts from towards the driver side front to back. Is it because the transmission is not in or the picture is off center?
  14. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    ^Saved, but never submitted apparently. This is getting so technical and specific to me I don't think it will help anyone down the road. Granted I think I'll model this in case someone wants to play with that at a later date. So I crawled under the car today. Definitive eyeball answer says, ~17.5 inches from firewall to stock chassis trans mount. This is almost perfectly confirmed by Zetsaz who measured 32 inches from the pocket behind the shifter to the firewall. I measured 13 inches from the pocket to point X + the 1.5 inch offset of point X to trans mount + the 17.5 inch I measured from the firewall to the trans mount adds up exactly to 32 inches. The R154 with the 2jz bell housing is actually 24 inches from the bell to mount, which makes sense since the 2jz incorporates a built in shield instead of separate pieces like the 7m. The offset of my mount is actually a surprising ~5 inches. Shifter sits about 4 inches forward of roughly centerish in the shifter hole. That all ads up to my bell housing face being ~2 inches in front of the fire wall. The CD009 is 27 inches from bell to mount so 3 inches longer. At most with the stock mounts it can sit back wards about ~ 3 inches behind before fouling. So with it inline with the stock mounts the trans would be ~9.5 inches past the firewall, + the .625 inch adapter plate pushing my engine forward almost 8 inches (from the original 2 inches it already sticks out). Although Exposed's engine doesn't sit 9 inches from where mine is, which is blowing my mind. With it sunk back 3 inches it would be ~6.5 inches past the firewall, pushing my engine forward ~5 inches forward from where my engine is. Oddly enough, I actually have another set of transmission tunnel mounts from when I made a straight cross member for the R154. That means, using those mounts and cutting out the stock mounts to make room, I can start with my 0 point being 5 inches back. That means using my rearward mounts, bell housing would be 4.5 inches past the fire wall, pushing my engine forward about 3 inches with the adapter plate. With it pushed back the 3 inches on top of using the rear mounts that puts the bell housing about 1.5 inches past the firewall, pushing my engine forward 0 inches with the adapter plate. That seems like it would be ridiculously easy. The shifter being 34 inches back...2 inch stick out + 17.5 inch to chassis mount + 1.5 to point X + 8.5 or 9.5 for ideal shifter placement 4 inches back. This is basically going to sit in the pocket. Or right in front of it. I can move the drive train forward a little bit so I don't get an awkward shifter, plus I think I need the room anyways to make sure I can access the bell housing and adapter bolts. So I've made my peace. Stock trans tunnel mounts are going to have to be removed. I can either recycle my rear mounts or cut it out and start fresh, but that is an option back there. Shifter will be shortened 4 inches and hopefully pop up near the shift hole. Transmission will be sunk in ~ 7 inches from where the stock trans tunnel mounts were. Engine mounts will be pushed forward 1-2 inches. Exhaust will have to be redone, radiator hoses will need to be shortened. I think that is it though.
  15. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    Hmm I thought the cigarette lighter was on the dash. Although mine is filled in, but the point X would be the front edge of the bracket that holds the cigarette lighter in your picture. Also thanks for the measurements. The number we have to play with is 31.5-32 inches from the pocket to the firewall. The pocket sits 1.5 inches behind the rear edge of the shifter hole. I have to go back and measure, but I'm pretty sure that is 12 inches back from point X and point X sits about 1.5 inches from the trans mounts. That means tentatively the length from the firewall to the trans mounts in the early 71, 72 Z cars is 17 inches which is more in line with what the digital tape measure says it should be.
  16. seattlejester

    New widebody kit design

    Interesting, kind of see an homage to the 280zx, 350z and such in there. Some reality checks. Center exhaust exit is usually not really viable since your gas tank sits there. Curving around the tire is good, but when it goes all the way to the door sill like that in the rear, jacking up the car without anti-droop coilovers means the tire will rip off the side skirt. The rear departure angle is a bit too shallow, if you live on a parking lot that might work, but without air ride or even with it going up a moderate incline is going to grind down the diffuser. Center hood bump may be aesthetically pleasing, but most engines kind of use that space. Hence the bulge, having a dip is going to be a bit restricting.
  17. seattlejester

    Need some opinions on rear half shaft route with R200 VLSD

    I keep referencing this thread, and I'm still not 100% sure. So to summarize. Items ordered Description: 1995 Nissan Pathfinder - CV Joint FEBEST # 0211-WD21 OEM # 39741-05U85Description: Febest - Nissan Inner Joint Left 27X98 - Oem: 39711-64E10 (G35) CV Axle Assembly Rear-Left/Right Heri 93885 fits 81-83 Nissan 280ZX New OE Quality CV Axle Shaft Fits Nissan Infiniti Driver/Passenger Front 80-4706 Driver side. 280Z 27 spline stub axle 280ZX Turbo 3x2 in 96mm center bore pattern companion flange adapter Heri brand 280ZX Turbo complete axle, with lock ring grove ground down to accommodate infiniti J30 lock ring Passenger side. 280Z 27 spline stub axle 280ZX Turbo 3x2 in 96mm center bore pattern companion flange adapter 280ZX Turbo 3x2 in 96mm Tripod housing WD21 tripod bearing? WD21 front passenger axle Bearing from Description: Febest - Nissan Inner Joint Left 27X98 - Oem: 39711-64E10 (G35) ? Tripod housing from ______ J30 passenger VLSD input Just for my checklist, that should leave me with a 280zx turbo axle with input, but not tripod maybe tripod bearing? WD21 input 2x pathfinder tripod housings G35 or pathfinder bearing?
  18. Long and short of it. Need some ideas. I have an R200 Long nose differential out of a Z31 300zx non turbo. I have swapped the ring gear onto a center section from an 1994 or 1995 infiniti J30, gaining myself an LSD. I am going to shim it slightly, clean it, and install the ring gear on and reinstall it into the housing finishing that part. Now here is the problem, the input shaft while having the same spline count, have different lengths. The short side can be popped out and the R200 input shaft from a 280z can be used. The problem is the longer side is indeed just that, longer. Thus I need to use the input shaft that came with the infiniti. The connundrum is that it is a 6 bolt pattern 3x2 and fairly large about 2-3 inches longer as it is a cup rather then a flat flange. Xenon31.com has quite a few methods, but rely on acquiring the highly lucrative 1988 Shiro VLSD axles for some of them. All the methods outlined is assuming a Z31 stub axle so would require converting the flange via whitehead performance or checkered flag racing conversion flanges for the stub axle. I'm putting out about 300hp with 330ft/lb according to the internet. So it would have to handle that. So my options I can see are as follows. 1. Cut the infiniti input shaft and weld the flange on from a 280z input shaft and use rebuilt stock half shafts. 2. Cut the infiniti input shaft and weld the flange on from a 280z input shaft and upgrade to wolf creek cv axles. 3. Retain the infiniti input shaft use infiniti cv axle (at least the differential side), shorten axle, and convert stub axle flange to match cv axle, will probably require 4 axles to use 4 differential sides. Is there some other methods that are staring me in the face that I am missing? I know welding axles is a pretty big no-no, but is welding the shaft of the input shaft to a flange acceptable?
  19. seattlejester

    280z FP Build

    Yay an update! I would love to make the trip. Packwood really is gorgeous. I'll be happy to hold down last place. At best I'm a bench racer, I've made my peace with the fact I'm not a very good driver, plus my modifications are all over the place.
  20. Per wrenchtech's request, some helpful features in posting. First off the very basics. These should really be looked at prior to posting. They can be found pinned in the announcement section. Scroll to the bottom for actual tips. Please try to follow them, they are pretty general, but more or less encourage good behavior. The posts that blatantly violate them or make no effort to follow the rules may be found in the tool shed section. Understandably if english is your second or third language, mistakes can happen, there are some excellent translation programs, or using word or the free open office version to type your response will help find common errors prior to posting, but for everyone else, please make an effort. You are asking for and most likely receiving FREE advice. Spending an extra minute to use some punctuation, capitalize letters, and spell out the full word is an appreciated courtesy. Make an effort prior to a post, taking 30 seconds to run a search and looking at the broad subject and narrowing down your specific question will help get a specific answer. Use links to related subjects or show some options you are entertaining. You ask a specific question, you will most likely get a specific answer. You ask a generic question, you will probably get more questions. On that note the search function is not the best. You can use the link below to search through google restricting it to the forum. https://www.google.com/search?ei=2h77WrOkMYmkjwPl6ZG4Dg&q=site%3Ahybridz.org+&oq=site%3Ahybridz.org+&gs_l=psy-ab.3...4138.7660.0.9392. Or similarly just go to the google search bar and type "site:hybridz.org" before your search terms. On that same vein: This is done not because people want to find you and steal all your things. Contrary to that hybridz members are some of the nicest and skilled people I have met, more likely they will be lending or assisting. The reason is to help focus in on your question. If you are looking for help, someone local may be able to offer it. If you are looking for recommendations, someone local may know the local shops or suppliers. If you are looking for a car or parts, your location may dictate condition and price. City will be fine or state if you want to be mysterious is fine. On to post subjects: This is more of a technical board, at the same time not everyone has an immediate understanding of cars and mechanics. The terms employed will be more of a technical nature, and if you are called out for using an incorrect term please don't feel offended, the standard for correction helps search terms. Using tube instead of pipe to refer to a structural cylinder will be helpful if someone was searching for tubular control arms for example. With that out of the way. Here are some helpful tips for forum posting. First off: It seems to be a forum software issue. Using symbols like percent, ampersand, pound, apostrophe, or foreign languages in the title of your posts may cause the post to be inaccessible. If it does happen get a hold of a moderator and they will be able to save your post. There are some neat features, with the update. Posting a link directly into the body will generate a linked box as can be seen throughout this post. Similarly posting a youtube video will automatically embed it. If you do not wish for this to happen, after you post the link a grey bar will appear at the bottom of the text box asking you if you want display as a link instead. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ Clicking it will generate a hyperlink with the address like above. If you want to hyperlink a word, you can highlight the word with your mouse and click the chain symbol 5 over from the left at the top of the text box. That will turn your word into a hyper link and ask for the URL to associate it with and can keep your post body cleaner for flow, like say these turbo manufacturers, like borg warner or garret. If you want to quote a reply you can hit the quotation mark 6 symbols over from the left to get a box like this Where you can copy and paste the section you are quoting. Or you can hit the quote box in the post from the person you want to reply to which will be under their post, you can do this several times to quote several people. Doing it this way will actually ping the user/users that they have been quoted. You can also trim the quote by clicking in the generated quote box and deleting sections so you are only replying to a specific portion, or you can just highlight the section you want to quote, that will generate a little window under your cursor with a "quote" option. If the post contains many pictures, it is suggested you delete the pictures from the quote box to minimize the thread size. A new feature is also pinging people manually. Say you want someone's input or know someone might have experience. Using the @ symbol you can ping them so @wrenchtech will ping them. Hope that helps, and if anyone has anything to add please feel free!
  21. seattlejester

    Posting FAQ section - no replies allowed

    Hmm that is not a bad suggestion if one does not exist. I'll look for one and whip one up if it can't be found.
  22. I keep forgetting they have a shop as well as a show room. I live pretty close by as well, I've gone to them for some weird seat brackets and stuff before. Nice people.
  23. Oh you are going to want some resistance. Can't really get a jack under there since there is a spring up top, I'd suggest it would be worth dropping the three nuts and the parking brake and brake line to get it on a bench. I'd say it might almost be better to make sure the end that is out is a bit more tapered and hammer that backwards, the way threads are if that mushrooms while it is in there it is going to grab and be really hard to get out.
  24. The spacer method only works on kind of medium seized ones if I remember they use like an adapter so that you actually apply the load not directly to the threads like you would if you put washers right underneath so the threads are just connecting and being pulled rather than pushed against. I will note depending on how seized they are it won't come out with a 12 ton press even after cutting the a arm off. At least not with my harbor freight press while being heated a little bit. So look for 4x4 or shops with more serious presses like a 20 ton or so. They probably would find it laughably easy.
  25. seattlejester

    Tig Help

    Really late to the party, but I've been watching a lot more on the how to's. Apparently the grey can happen more readily if you have a non advantageous gas coverage. So welding the same thickness material people will find welding the inside of a pipe will weld with better color and less greying because the gas stays in the curvature, while welding on the outside the gas falls away more quickly. More gas was a recommendation, but this is from a complete newbie so take it with about a bucket of salt.