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seattlejester

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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Appreciate the insight! Car is fueled, pre-registered, camping equipment is packed, just need to grab some food and water.
  2. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    Hey guys, I just finished the install of my CD009. Bled the clutch and found out it doesn't seem to have enough throw (I can see the slave while bottoming out the clutch pedal (movement from when I start to press it) and it stops after maybe 1/2 an inch or so. Looking it up the 350z runs an 11/16 clutch master, I thought our 5/8 would be sufficient, but looks like with the uprated clutch disc it doesn't have enough throw to push it under pressure. I'm tempted to go a bit on the big side and am looking at the 7/8 unit, but I'm a bit concerned that may be too much. Settle at 3/4? Thoughts?
  3. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    ^Same. Just remove the one on the cylinder and replace it with the datsun one. Makes it very simple.
  4. seattlejester

    2jzge swap in progress

    Good to know on the wheels I do have a soft spot for 5 spokes, is the option when you order direct from us wheel?
  5. seattlejester

    2jzge swap in progress

    Finding someone who says they can weld is pretty easy, do your diligence now rather than later, you want to see some test pieces and make sure he shows you the welds before he goes and covers them up with paint or seam sealer. These are really structural pieces take caution. Stay away from cosmo. It is just a spring setup with an adjustable perch, might as well go with a ground control kit at that point which has way more options, better design, and you can convert to a camber top. Those star wheels are pretty neat, but looks like the most they come with is 5.5 aka 0 offset. You might be able to run them with real thin coilovers, but you would want almost an inch more outboard probably via spacer if you wanted to fill out flares, that is quite a massive weight package. For the effort, I would say trying to find a cd009 over the cd001 you have would be beneficial. I'd almost say making sure the trans fits would be better before you went and welded in the floors, once you weld new floors in it kind of locks the trans tunnel in place makes it harder to stretch out or manipulate. Granted I guess you can't really hammer the trans tunnel without a solid connection to bend around. Looks like you have an earlier Z which means quite a bit of material removal will be required. Might be worth taking a look at how you want everything to fit and then try and build around it rather then weld everything and have to cut it up to make room again. Depending on how bad the floor is it may be easier to just put in a new floor and it will be cheaper to if you just make it flat.
  6. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Query, how long does this usually run? 4-5? I need to get back before 6 on sunday might have to bail early sunday if i make it
  7. seattlejester

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    Definitely learned some things. Socorob's wisdom is on point, really assemble everything before welding. I realized that on more or less final assembly that the datsun shaft sits quite high up in the housing, so I will loose about 1/2 an inch of spline engagement, luckily I maxed out the spline engagement to start with so still more than 1.5 inches or so engaged. I also ended up cutting the saturn shaft housing a bit too close to the motor housing, with the penetration from the welding it seizes pretty hard the last 1/8 inch or so. The motor definitely will need more than this little stamped flange will hold to support the torque assistance anyways so not too concerned. Here is the welded shaft. The plastic is a pretty good idea, but you really need it super tight to make sure you have perfect alignment. My inline switch to the printer started acting up and seized shutting off the final print of the adapter so I had to make do with one that was a bit shorter, took a couple tries, but I'm happy with it. Also managed to press the gear back into the housing. I'll have to remember to grease it up later as quite a bit was wiped off, but the shaft spins freely for now. Here is the datsun column stop welded to the saturn lower column. If I had left about a quarter inch or so more it would have been perfect, but as it is I was already fairly tight on space. Here it is loosely assembled. I definitely did not account for the hump of the motor in my jig, the motor hangs quite low, but I don't thing it should interfere with anything in this orientation. I wanted to leave the control box face down so I could access it to manipulate the potentiometers. Once again socorob is correct that there is a lean to the column from stock. the flange that attaches to the firewall is offset away from the steering wheel inboard towards the trans tunnel. I thought I could get by this, but here I am a bit hesitant as I realize that the upper support can rotate. I hope I made the jig with it in the correct orientation. Luckily this setup is built with some misalignment allowed in the enlarged holes for the dash to column mount and the u joint after the motor which should allow an angle if needed. I definitely think some clamps will be instrumental in holding the bearing support to prevent the that from moving about. I am a bit afraid that there isn't much to prevent the column from sliding forward given there is now hard stop. I'll have to devise something to prevent the collapsible portion from moving until it is needed.
  8. I tend to ramble and kind of go in a lot of directions with my thoughts, and felt it unfair to clutter up a nice thread like socorob has on his example of the install. So I'll be covering two topics, one is my attempt at the conversion. Second is some more information I found along the way. First off: There are more options out there! I struggled and had to run the day after one was put on the yard to get my column, the columns listed below should be in your local junkyards shortly if not already and are much more popular then a midsize american SUV so you should be spoiled for options. While it may not be an options for some, given our relatively light cars there are more options than just the 02-07 Saturn Vue and its clones. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/1008722-electric-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-needed-pics-videos.html To summarize, while there are several units on the market, these units specifically will provide modest assist without having to trick or hack the system. 2004-2009 Toyota Prius2009-2013 Toyota Corolla2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS works in Fail-Safe).2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (Non-ABS needs VSS signal or flashing LED)2007-2009 Nissan Versa2009-2012 Nissan Cube2012-2014 Kia Soul Basically these have fail-safe settings where when no ECU input is detected, the unit goes into an automatic pre-determined assist setting. Back a little more to the beginning. This seems to be one of the earlier mentions of the electric power steering. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/787114-best-200-mod-ever-eps-2.html The basic premise is to acquire the steering column and adapt the ends as needed. Given our long hood and rearward seating position it seems that we need the steering shaft in addition to the column to make it to the firewall, depending on how much of the stock system we choose to use. The cheapest and easiest would most likely revolve around using the stock steering shaft, cutting the shaft that goes into the chassis and mating it with the Vue motor output via a coupler, then once again via a coupler or welding attaching the datsun input to the saturn input. That unfortunately would most likely loose our collapsible column feature. Socorob's method corrects that by using the steering column from the vue which has a collapsable column as part of the system, then making a bespoke, but modular piece to mate the datsun rack to the saturn vue steering shaft. Given the number of joints (3) this requires a rigid fixture in addition to the fixed rack to lower the degrees of freedom for the movement. Socorob solves this by employing bearings at the firewall plate to support and to eliminate a degree of freedom. With that end taken care of it only leaves the mounting of the motor. The motor can be retained by the two bolts that hold the column, but would be further assisted by employing the pass through bolt used to mount the motor in the stock configuration in the Vue. Once mounted it is just a matter of adapting the saturn input to the datsun input/steering wheel. The electronics, there are 3 plugs on the 2002-2007 saturn Vue motor controllers. 1. Is the plug for the motor 2. Is the power and ground plug for the controller and motor 3. Is the VSS/ECU communication/ignition plug The bruno controller as far as I can workout without having it in my hands accomplishes two things. One it tricks the EPS controller into thinking it is communicating with the ECU, and second replaces the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) with a rheostat, which allow a user to manually adjust the effort supplied, usually freeway speeds would pretty much remove any assist, while speeds less than 10mph would ramp up the assist, so the box allows the rheostat to start by sending freeway speed signal and as you turn the knob up lowers the simulated VSS signal until it gets to parking lot levels which gives max assist. The bruno box comes with the communication plug. Almost all columns come with the plug for the motor Most columns do not come with the power/ground plug. Ask the seller to grab it for you if you are buying it after market, it is held in by 2 bolts, 1 on the battery with a big inline fuse, another under the dash where it attaches to a ground. Easily pulled by pulling undoing the nut for the power and cutting the ground wire. And lets not forget, for those who could not be bothered, there are 2 commercial options for our cars. Zcarpowersteering offers a kit for $1500 http://zpowersteering.com/store/ Silvermine offers a kit for $900 http://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30 Also the bruno controller can be found on eBay for quite a bit less, but all the little parts can be found on his site http://www.epowersteering.com/ What about hydraulic power steering? While a hydraulic power steering option is definitely viable, depending on the motor the correct pump or conversion fittings may be difficult to source. The racks that work seem to be miata or subaru in nature and require different tie rod ends to make the wheel base situation workout, they are pretty well documented. For some running hydraulics, making the appropriate brackets, sourcing the pulleys etc may be more tedious then some wiring and making a support bracket for an electric system. The benefit of the electric system is that it is adjustable and could be turned off if desired, not something you get with a hydraulic system.
  9. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    Oh and depending on what you get, figure out your adapters ahead of time. The port is american, it comes with two adapters, one for 3/8 IF I think and another one with a 3AN male fitting. I luckily had some banjo M10x1 IF fittings so I was able to use those.
  10. That sounds about right. I think people who run the 16x8's are at a higher height or running more camber. I rub on my 15x7 +0 wheels with 225/50/15. Also that is a consideration as well. Tires can fill out or limit the rim choice. Generally you get about an inch of inboard space with coilovers which seems to be what you have found. I think the absolute max I've seen where a guy could barely fit a coin between the perch and the rim and the rims were very flush with the fender were 16x8 +4 on viczcar if memory serves.
  11. seattlejester

    SPOT WELDING

    A lesson is worth whatever they charge. I've taught a few people, some who have said they have welded before, and they also end up way better after about 20-30 minutes with a bit of tutelage. I've taught someone while I was under the car just based off of how the welds sound. Might be worth while going to your local welding shop and seeing if anyone has time to give you a lesson on a day off, or as many have said take a weekend class at a trade school or community college. Or you can lookup local people who have good technique and ask if they have an hour or two you could bother them for or pay to inconvenience.
  12. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    Concurred, just pointing out a potential interference point. I think most people will run a poly mount anyways, and given the weight of this transmission I will say even that seems like it allows for quite a bit of squish and movement depending on the durometer (sp), but probably will be minimal overall. I'm not really planning on dropping any more money at the moment, and I'm pretty happy with my setup, just putting it out there it is an option. A remote setup would be interesting, but you would have to engineer a reverse mechanism to flip the setup pattern or do something like a 180, 180. Really either moving the transmission forward a few inches or buying the forward mount shifter and running an offset shifter backwards would be the easier option. I will say I am curious about the solid shift housings. The CD009 ones which have rubber bushings on the shift tower has a surprising amount of play. Probably to mitigate NVH, but it can make the shifting feel a bit inprecise.
  13. While relatively fresh on my mind. Please feel free to correct! Got a chance to do a few measurements on the CD009 and a 280z. Also compiled some measurements based off of my R154 in my 240z. Early 240z 70, 71, 72 will physically fit an R154 unaltered, CD009 will fit unaltered per Exposed's picture. R154 CD009 via Exposed Thanks to body measurements we know the mounts on the body sit about 86mm off the floor pans. The top of the trans tunnel sits about 285mm off the floor Trans mount holes are 310mm apart center to center Flange for the mount is roughly 40x40mm, although the outside edge is tapered by trans tunnel as can be seen on exposed's mounts 23 inches of room from fire wall to trans mount or 584mm, the closest recorded measurement I have on the diagram is 622.5mm to the TC bucket from the trans mounts. Later 240z, 260z, and 280z will need the trans brace removed to fit. They have about 8 inches of space near where the trans cross member bolts through. They can have sufficient room similar to the 240z with the trans brace removed, maybe more with in some regards with the catalytic converter hump. Measurement CD009 R154 Total length 40 28 keep in mind the CD009 has a tripod shifter while the R154 ends at a dust shield for the output Face to output 29 27 Face to trans mount center 27 25 Rear box dimension 10w X 12h 9.51w x ?h widest portion of the rear of tranny. Trans mount bolt pattern 2 bolts 4.25 apart 4 bolts at a V like ~3 inch apart? Shifter sits ~5 backwards? ~5 forward? Early chassis trans mount bolt spacing 310mm Early chassis trans mount span, 270mm (310mm bolt spacing, 40mm pads, 310-20x2=270) Technically almost 11 inches, but the mounts are kind of rounded so probably closer to 10.5 or 10 inches. Late chassis trans mount bolt spacing ~250mm 10 inches Late chassis trans mount span, ~200mm 8 inches This was eyeballed measurements on an uncut CD009. Make sure to factor in the adapter plate width which is an additional 0.625 The following are just my thoughts for swapping from my R154 to a CD009 using collins adapters adapter. My transmission sits almost flush if not a bit recessed in the trans tunnel, easily verified with the firewall to chassis trans mount measurement the offset nature of my mount and the measurement of the face to the trans mount. 25 (face to trans mount of R154) - 23 (firewall to chassis trans mount) - 2 (trans mount offset). Exposed's trans mount is not offset and his transmission face sits 4 inches proud of the firewall + 0.625 inch for the adapter plate I imagine. With the serial 9 shifter relocate which puts the shifter at about 32 inches or so it is a suggested perfect fit. The factory cd009 shifter can with stand being shortened about 4 inches via eye balling and the shifter sits about 1.5 inches in front of the rear Total length is about 34 inches from the face to the shifter hole via that method, using an offset shifter I can get back to 32 inch territory. The question is can I pull the trans further into the trans tunnel. While the engine obviously can move forward 4.625 inches from where it sits since that is how Exposed is running his setup, that would mean new engine mounts, which in all honesty I am not opposed against, but with that comes intercooler pipe shortening exhaust lengthening, coolant line shortening, hopefully the fuel lines reach as well as the wiring. Looking at 2j-z on youtube, although his car is a 280z, he welded his cross member back pretty much under the shifter hole. His engine also sits about the same as mine does with the shock tower between cylinder 1 and 2. In the spirit of stream of consciousness, that would be a problem since as it is right now I can only loosen my bell housing bolts with an angled wrench. With an adapter pushing that back even further short of access holes on the inside of the car I would have to drop the trans mount and tilt it down to get access to the top bolts. Assuming it would fit the early chassis without butchering up the factory mount brackets. Not going to fly, so plan will be to move the engine forward about 2 inches as of now. That means an off set cross member with holes spanning 310mm across and about 50 mm or so back from the trans mount holes. That will also pull the shifter out of the ash tray area and not require me to fabricate or buy the CBF forward mount shifter, instead moving the bucket forward 4 inches or so and then using a 2 inch offset to push the shifter forward. In theory given the 310mm bolt hole spacing found in the FSM, and the additional 40mm mount width, that should leave a space of roughly 270mm or slightly less. that should mean the big bulge in the back of the trans should be able to be off set rearward. Only physical measurements would argue otherwise.
  14. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    Wilwood 3/4 with the 2.25 bolt spacing if memory serves. I bought the traditional one, but a compact one should in theory work apparently.
  15. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    Hmm in that design it should be able to handle any side to side play, the problem would be if you encountered the play while shifting the gate may shift from where you are used to as in if you are used to moving towards the power button on the radio to engage 3rd or something, you may have to move towards the rewind button or something if you have a normal rubber mount and you are trying to shift while going through a corner. With it mounted on the transmission you would always be shifting it in reference to where the knob started as the shifter would rotate with the shifter. I guess problem may be too harsh of a phrase, maybe inconsistency?
  16. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    Some other information. 350z driveshaft is carbon fiber sleeve over a metal splined section. You can cut the sleeve and pry it off. Not sure how sturdy just the splined section is. My shop charged a little over $500 for the driveshaft all said and done. I think they cut me a deal since they were a part they rushed did not show up. They had the spicer joint in stock and they upped the u-joints to 1310's if I'm not mistaken. The 1310 is a big joint and requires a big flange, the stock bolts seems to work, but you cannot use the lock washers if you want full thread engagement, I used flanged locking nuts and loctite. Use bread or wet newspaper to try and push out the bearing, skip the grease as it has a chance of blowing out the seals. If you have an old plate it wants you to bolt the starter through the adapter plate. If you have the means drill through the starter and weld appropriate sized hex bolts to the plate. Will keep you from having to drop this heavy f*er of a transmission if your starter goes bad. The holes for the flywheel are not blind. That means they are open to the crank case through the crank and additionally means oil can seep out. You want to use a thread locker of course. 243 is an updated formula with better retention against non adherent surfaces from what I understand, so it is recommended for this application. Some people have used FIPG, others have used the red 272. I used the 243 as someone said it due to its properties acts more like a sealant as well as a thread locker. When I pulled my old flywheel off no oil was to be seen. As others have pointed out the pilot bearing adapter should not sit flush or bottom out. Measuring it I believe it has something like 7mm of engagement if you do bottom it out. Less if the bearing pushes in. Online someone said to leave about 1/4 inch or so. The number 16mm stays in my mind for desired engagement. The pilot adapter is also a tight fit to the flywheel. People have suggested taking the outer diameters down to make room. I did as I wanted to make sure the flywheel did not push in the adapter. Check this first and save yourself some head ache. An old bolt and in my case a heavy duty zip tie lets you torque the flywheel bolts without having to rely on someone to hold the crank. Instructions say to torque to 56ft lbs in 20lb increments. Someone suggested 70 after reading the ARP instructions, but I wasn't sure if they looked up these extra long bolts going into aluminum or the shorter stock style bolts. I torqued mine to 60 just to round it out.
  17. seattlejester

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    Something I have not heard or seen before for this application. Seems chassis mount shifters are a thing now. https://www.facebook.com/BellRaceworks/ Featured in The allure would be a fairly simple way of mounting the shifter no tig welder required. You would have to have some play either in the shifter retainer or nearly solid mount the transmission to the body as the shifter would be attached to the transmission tunnel. How it looks with a shifter relocator pushing it forward. As it is mounted now, your elbow does rub the back of your seat on the lower gates. The shifter extension helps push it forward out of the way enough that it isn't too much of a bother. The extra height makes for a longer shift, granted this is on a short shifter so they cancel each other out somewhat, but still a fairly long throw. If I had all the time and space I would suggest moving the assembly forward another 2 inches or so. The engine would still sit behind where the stock L series would, you wouldn't have to cut the shifter hole, and you would have access to the top bolts on the transmission. In my application with my crank mounted trigger wheel, that is a bit of a riskier prospect.
  18. seattlejester

    4l80E housing

    Hello, it seems you have posted in the FAQ section which does not allow for replies. Please take a moment to verify you are in the forum section instead of the FAQ's for responses to be allowed. I've moved your post into the drive train section so hopefully someone can respond.
  19. seattlejester

    SPOT WELDING

    Hello, it has been reported that you have posted in the FAQ section. This seems to be a recurring issue. Please take a second and make sure you are in the actual forum section instead of the FAQ section prior to posting as the FAQ section does not allow for replies. Everlast mig, harborfreight omni, hobart handler, lincoln hd, are some affordable mig units. If you are asking how to weld, planning to do something like this is probably out of your reach at the moment. There are some great videos on youtube, but really you need someone to critique you and give you some active hints to really get a good feel for it. They will also be able to tell you if your machine is problematic, welding on a bad machine it can almost be impossible to get a good bead.
  20. seattlejester

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    Using the saturn column did cross my mind, just swapping the upper mounts out would be fairly easy comparatively, the length would be easy enough to hit with the collapsible lower end. Granted I think the datsun sliding bushing setup is a bit more elegant in some regards. Although thinking about it now, I'm concerned there isn't much to stop the steering wheel from being pushed forward as the stock setup was held back with the bellows that I am deleting, and the lower saturn portion has almost no resistance.
  21. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    3/4 is more than enough especially with the stops removed. I actually added the stop back in for the clutch and took up the back stop. It is a bit firmer, but that may be from the heavier duty pressure plate.
  22. Hey folks, I realized posting in the member's build section wouldn't allow me to really ask questions, so I've posted my build here as well. I'm currently building a 1971 240Z. My plan is to get rid of all the rust, renew the suspension (get the car low, and stiff), add some zg flares (still in consideration), find some nice gap fitting wheels, and put on a new coat of paint or perhaps wrap it in vinyl. This car will hopefully become my daily driver, but until I can get it running reliably, it will be taking on grocery runs, and the occasional track days to shake out all the bugs. I have a time limit of about 4-5 months left to get the car prepped for the weather and moving on it's own power. Stage 1: Strip Stage 2: Restore Stage 3: Mock-up Stage 4: Primer, Underliner, Paint Stage 5: Reinstall The day I bought the car I bought the car about 3-4 weeks ago, and only been working on it over the weekends. Right now I'm in the process of Stage 1. These are some previous pics, we've now stripped out most of the interior, taken off the doors, taken off the hatch, and pulled the blown engine Of course things don't always go according to plan, as good deals pop up here and there, I start amassing the parts for Stage 3, far ahead of time. The L28E out of a '79ZX, the bandaid engine to get the car rolling before a more serious engine is thrown in. Picking up an N42 head this weekend, and recycling my SU carbs from the blown L24. And on the sadder part of things, some things really don't go according to plan, including a fully rusted through frame rail (Pics to come). The jack stand started bending right into it! I've been looking at baddog replacement frame rails, but the site hasn't been updated in 4 years. Hopefully the guy is still up and running? The next stage will be to buy or borrow a media blaster setup (to get rid of rust and the primer) and a flux/mig welder (to cut out and replace the frame rail and repair any non salvageable areas). Surprisingly, the car has solid floor pans, and almost no rust through spots, other than the entire frame rail and a pin hole in the floor pan, despite having lived the last few years of it's life in the rainy city. If anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it! And if anyone has Z parts in the seattle area I am going to have to get in touch with you for some replacements
  23. seattlejester

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    Since I'll be welding I decided I should try and separate the shaft. The nut on the back is fairly large. It should be metric, but the store ran out after 24mm, so it is probably a 27mm or something of that nature. A 1 1/16 seemed to work well enough. Then I separated the shell with the 2 bolts. The shaft stays in the lower portion. A few smacks with a piece of wood and a hammer and the shaft came out. It is pretty neat, I think the pieces in the middle there are trigger teeth that get picked up by the control unit. There is a pin that will separate the upper shaft, unfortunately I didn't have the right setup to do so. Here is the layout of all the parts involved. The mounting points on the plate are fixed and everything kind of lines up in this picture. you can see the input into the datsun column is lined up almost exactly with the point where the shaft on the motor gets wider. That meant my cut lines were pretty much where the shaft on the motor get wider for the power steering unit, and right after the splines on the datsun shaft. While the shafts are close 17mm on the saturn unit I think 16mm on the datsun unit, given the cut point... you get the splines which are 17.4mm and the fatter portion of the shaft which is 23.9mm. the fat point has about 14mm of engagement room there is a gap of around 17mm from the fat point to where the splines on the datsun shaft will start given the cut point. You could eyeball this, but given that we are welding an outer shaft, at best it will spin off axis, but more likely it will bind if it isn't exactly centered. Given I have the time and tech, I decided to print my centering piece. Kind of the norm with printing, you have to expect a few iterations. The first was really tall and also the shrinkage was probably a bit more than I was willing to overcome. So the next revision made more room in the center, the diameters were increased, the bottom to 18.2mm and the top to 25.1mm if I remember and lopped off the ends. It may work, but the final iteration will have a bit more length to center the weld point while giving max engagement, all while making more room so I can fit a torch down in there.
  24. seattlejester

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Join the darkside I have the trans tunnel completely sealed with aluminum tape to the shifter stand and now the shift boot on top as well although it isn't secured. I'm gonna try another layer of the insulation over the top. If it is still too warm I'll order some of the reflective trans mat for the bottom and try and sneak it up there some day, I've been looking at z car depot and they have some cushioning for the carpet that seems like it would act as a pretty good barrier as well.
  25. Actually that is almost passable. Given the frame rails in the engine bay aren't tubular and are C channel if you didn't run bedding posts you would pull the top portion down as you tightened the bolts which would crush the C channel as well as pull it away from the wheel tub/strut towers. By welding the plate they basically spread the load so that was a good idea, but I feel like welding an L instead of the plate that ties the bolt points to the wheel tub/shock tower would have been more beneficial. The way John designed it seems very purposeful. Wish he were still around to ask if it was indeed done so it wouldn't pull down the frame rails given it is its own spreader or if he made it like that to avoid the wiring harness clips in earlier cars or something more arbitrary.
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