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datz280

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About datz280

  • Birthday 02/08/1979

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  1. Looking for an alternator from a 280zx or 280zxt. Shipping to 94553 Mike Turbodatsun280z@gmail.com
  2. Josh thanks for the info, I will PM you my wife's cell number and you can talk to her about these low prices and how I should just go for it, JK. I am actually really lucky my wife loves the Z as much as I do. In all seriousness thanks for the write-up on the whole assembly and the clutch recommendation Mike
  3. Ok, Good to know. How will the smaller diameter of my old non turbo flywheel affect the operation on the new turbo engine?
  4. I was searching the forums and I think this is the info I needed. I am putting a turbo block into my 77 280. The turbo block came out of an automatic. It looks like I need to get the larger 2+2 or turbo flywheel, clutch, throwout bering. OR? can I use the smaller flywheel off my N/A and old clutch and throwout bering? Will the smaller size work with the turbo block if the whole old assembly is used?
  5. it was cleaned and hot tanked before machining. It is my understanding that the cleaning with soap and water is to get rid of any cutting oil used or shavings left behind.
  6. I have my block back from the machine shop and was reading the How to books. It is recommended to clean the block with a soap and water. My concern is using water to flush the oil galleys and making sure it is all out upon assembly, I don't want my block to rust. I will use WD40 to disperse the water from the block and bores. I guess I am asking for some reassurance that this is what everyone does with their blocks when they receive them from a machine shop. Mike
  7. You should not have problems with tailpipe emissions. But in Calif. you need to pass a visual as well. As I understand the rules anything that alters the air or fuel that was not there stock will cause a person to fail.
  8. I also have a 77 that will need to pass smog. I don't have my swap done yet. When I mount an intercooler I was thinking of keeping the stock J pipe and swapping it in for the smog test. At that point the intercoler is there just for looks.
  9. when I ordered the set I filled out a Ross spec sheet with all of the measurements and asked for a custom set of 6. I told the guy at Summit that 902 was quite a lot and I had recalled a price more in the 600 range. He told me that was the price for a custom set. Thats why I thought if I asked for a stock +1 mm 83 N/A flattop it would be cheaper. I'm still unsure on the forged vs cast issue but the savings would afford me MSnS and some other goodies.
  10. I just got a quote from Summit Racing for a set of forged pistons with pins and rings $902.00!!! I was shocked. After searching the forums it looked like a little over a year ago they were around 600. I am going to call and ask for a quote on a set of stock 83 N/A pistons (no dish) and see what I get. If it is still near the one grand mark I am going to look at ITM cast pistons ($275). This leads me to my question. I understand that forged will take some more detonation, but how much more? If the price of forged is prohibited how much of a cost benefit tradeoff will I have with cast. I plan on in the future running a Holset, intercoller, and ~14psi. Thanks Mike
  11. Thanks guys, I was weary of having my shop straighten the rod. I think I will go with a set of used and pick the best 6 of 12. My shop is going to check, size, balance, and peen them
  12. while disassembling my engine one of the pistons had a skewed wipe pattern. I was told if my rod is bent I could straighten it. Is this advisable on a street driven boosted engine? Arizona Z Car has rods for about $60. If I was to buy a new rod would I need to buy a set? Also if I have custom pistons on stock 280 rods will this be a problem? Thank you, Mike
  13. Ok, I am getting ready to order some forged pistons from ROSS. I have the measurements and was checking what was as measured vs. the Engine Design utility and there are some variances. Currently I am refreshing the engine with a +1mm overbore. I will be putting it into my 280. Future goals are to run a holset, intercooler, increased fuel delivery, and MegaSquirt. I am building a weekend road car. I found my rod lenth 130.530 and the design utility is 130.2 My rods are +.3 My block height is 207.899 and the design utility is 207.85 a difference of +.049 my head CC is 54 instead of 53.6 and my gasket height as measured off the old one is 1.27 not 1.25 I have never ordered pistons before and do not know how much of a variance in my measurements is acceptable. If it helps I can lay out all the measurements I gathered. Also I used a formula to find piston height above the block (I did not measure before disassembly) and found +.10 which seems to be about average. The head and block will be surfaced and have checked out to be sound. Thank you, Mike
  14. head and block will be checked for straightness and both decked to provide a clean new surface. My desire to use a MHG came from recalling that others were staying away from composite gaskets. Re-searching it seems that using the composite brands are ok and they are letting go when you run lean and detonate or from a matting surface that is uneven or warped.
  15. I am building a turbo engine for my 77. I am going to go .040 over and use forged pistons. I am thinking a good cr would be around 8.5 for off boost performance and still enable me to up boost later. I will be using MSnS to tune. While I am tuning it sounds like the advice is to use a stock head gasket (1.25 mm) and if you detonate it is the part that lets go. After I have the tune down I would like to go to a MHG. The 1mm is expensive and hard to find. If I use the 2mm then the CR would drop to around 8.0. What are your opinions on this, or should I just go with a 2mm MHG to start and be careful with the tuning? Mike
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