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I tried using 6x9s in the storage compartments for a while but they never sounded quite right in there. The sound was always louder on the opposite side of the car. Hrm... mine were pointing up from the storage compartment openings, though. Might sound better if the openings were sealed and holes were cut for the speakers behind the seats on the vertical surface of each compartment. Doing the 5 1/4 speakers in each kick panel and in the rear quarters in this thread might be a good way to go.

I've got a few extra fasterners left over after putting my car back together. I used alot of plastic bags to keep track of stuff; really helped.

Are you the same Wick that wrote the how to restore your Z book?

Hah, I think the one thing my mom's told me more than anything else is, "wear your saftey glasses"! I'm blind in one eye too. I watched a friend of mine a few years ago spray carb cleaner into a carb and have it come back and hit him in the eyes. He said it hurt a lot... --Dan

Dang, that's sexy stuff you've got there nazar. Camber plates should get you another 1.5" travel. Mine's about ready to go back together. I'll just stick w/ the rubber bushings for now on the tc rod (thanks Jon).

I just started on my suspension rebuild today, too. I'm doing new bushings all around, tie rod ends and ball joints, 1"-f and 7/8"-r anti-roll bars, illuminas, and coilovers. I'm really looking forward to driving this thing when it's done. I've got the car jacked up now and am starting to disassemble the front end. Do you guys know, if I ask the muffler shop to weld the stops onto my strut tubes, do I have to worry about them warping the tubes or something if they suck? They can't be worse than me if they weld every day and I'd do it myslef if I had a welder handy. Also, I've been reading through alot of the old posts here; one of the regulars mentioned staying away from poly bushings at the tc-rod mounts (hayns calls them the radius rods). Anyone know why that is? Do they flex too much and break w/ the poly bushings? Cheers, --Dan

What do you use for lube in the bushings? Won't regular grease degrade them after a while? The zerk fittings seem like a great idea. One of my coworker's warned me about the squeaky poly bushings the other day. I'm going to start rebuilding my suspension next weekend or shorly thereafter. --Dan

260ZRED, do the carpet yourself. I just put new carpet in mine last week. It takes like four yards x 6' of carpet. I did mine so that it replaces the vinyl that used to cover the trans tunnel. If you do it right, there are no wrinkles anywhere and there aren't any seams up front at all except at the corners by your feet and by where your seatbelt bolts in. You lay it in and cut it so that it lays continuously from the door sill to your feet and all the way back the trans tunnel. It continues from the back of the trans tunnel down underneath the seat and it cut to fit around all the bits that stick out. There's a change in the shape of the trans tunnel right next to the seats, so you have to cut the carpet extra wide to wrap up over the top of the tunnel and still lay flat. This is also why you need to have a break in the carpet by the seat belt on the door side. I'll try and get some pictures of mine. Hecka cheapa and nice. It was only $80 for carpet, insulation, glue, and razor blades from lowes. If your mom's got a sewing machine, you can cut carpet for the back and sew edging around it. That's what I'm working on right now. I want to pull the vinyl off the wheel wells in the back and lay some thick insulation and carpet to quiet down the back of the car and clean it up a bit.

Sir_Daniel, What kind of adhesive do you use to stick the leather to the paneling? I'd love to do the same thing with vinyl/naugahyde. --Dan