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OldAndyAndTheSea last won the day on April 10

OldAndyAndTheSea had the most liked content!

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About OldAndyAndTheSea

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    Can Charge Rent
  • Birthday 08/16/1989

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    Henderson Harbor, NY
  1. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    Typically any ends are covered by the laminate, exposed core is a risk to the core itself, not unlike any other circumstance, and should be thought about in the same way. The core is usually prepped, with beveled edges, at usually around a 45 degree angle (or at around a 2-5mm radius - material thickness depending) to allow for easy conformity of the fabric over the core's surface. Sometimes the ends aren't capped, but those situations are less common I find. ..but again, there's that tailor-ability coming into play. If you want caps, you can have caps. If you don't need caps, you don't have to have them. You have freedom of choice. Unfortunately freedom can sometimes be dangerous too. haha. I love answering any composites related questions. Unfortunately there is a lot of misunderstanding of these materials. I'd like to help clear that up, to make the industry, as a whole, better. I do apologize for any tangential trajectory that my comments may have taken things however. haha.
  2. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    yeah, getting aluminum honeycomb, or honeycomb in general, to lay nicely over complex compound curves is inherently a challenge. It has massive compression strength. Shear, not so much, like you mention. Depending on the complexity of the geometry, you can sometimes carefully scarf, and bevel, core to make them flex, bend, or conform better. Sometimes you must cut the core into many sections and lay them side by side, instead of one continuous piece. It definitely can be tricky. Getting resin within the combs themselves shouldn't happen, if you're using the proper materials that these were designed around. Prepregs. If you're using these types of cores, you should NOT be using hand layup. That defeats the purpose. Very much like a laminate that includes both chopped strand mat, and a carbon fiber skin. That is not a "carbon" laminate. That's mostly fiberglass and the carbon is doing very little, if anything, to the structure of the layup. You see virtually no weight savings over the "fiberglass" versions...and the carbon isn't even allowed to do its job... It's simply a more aesthetically pleasing cover, which there's nothing wrong with...just stop calling it a "carbon X". If you're using prepregs and honeycomb it is a breeze. The prepreg fabric only has enough catalyzed resin for itself, so you must use a sheet of "film adhesive" (a literal sheet of catalyzed resin) to join the fabrics to the core. The film adhesive is just enough resin to, in a perfect world, form a little meniscus over the top of each of the combs, holding a firm and uniform bond between the skin and core. If it is too resin rich, the laminate becomes heavier (like you said) and brittle. Resin rich comes from hand layup. In a perfect world, when you test the physicals of the laminate, the core itself will fail, and the skins will not delaminate. high density foams are a wonderful material, and work well in combination with honeycombs, but as you can see from even my brief touching on the topic...there is a lot of variability, and tailor-ability to composites....which is one of its greatest advantages. If you understand the materials, and how they are designed to be used, you can customize the laminate to do exactly what you want, where you want. Only robust in those areas that need it, or strong in a certain force, while others areas that don't need said requirements can be as lightweight as possible. I think the main reason behind most doors being metal is simply it's the best bang for the buck. It's wonderful at dispersing load, and provides good intrusion protection. You will absolutely see a weight savings with a carbon, cored, door over its metal counterpart - but doing so would add exorbitant cost and effort. As far as physical performance, the carbon door would be superior in virtually every way, but only if properly constructed. If not properly constructed, it could be devastating. I was extremely lucky to learn from, quite frankly, one of the Composites wold's leading authorities, Henry Elliot. Now a head consultant for the Oracle Team USA Americas Cup team. I oringinally had planned to make full carbon, FIA legal, composite doors while at school. When I told him about the project, he raised his eyebrows big time... Basically told me not to do it....he told me that the juice was not going to be worth the squeeze. "if ten pounds is what makes or breaks your race, you're on an entirely different level of skill.....Don't sacrifice safety for weight, that's not how composites are supposed to work." "don't sacrifice safety by chasing numbers." is essentially what he told me. If you aren't going into making doors with these thoughts in mind, you shouldn't be making doors. That's my humble opinion.
  3. Refinishing small parts

    1. Thanks. I knew very little about these materials before I decided to learn. Anyone can do this work. It just takes the willingness to try...(and fail). I learned these skills because I couldn't find anyone who could do what I wanted....I also couldn't afford to pay someone else to make this stuff.....and most of what you're getting is fiberglass with a carbon skin. That's not a true carbon laminate. I want my carbon to actually serve a purpose, and not just be some "bling" to look at. Weight savings/structural integrity first, then aesthetics. 2. I get that....I've found that even that harbor freight spot blaster thing works well on small stuff in a pinch. My sandblasting cabinet leaves a lot to be desired. The second you start blasting you can't see shit. The light sucks and my vacuum (wet/dry vac) assisted dust collector isn't much better. It's a struggle, but even still, it expedites the process enough to still be worth it. Nothing beats virgin metal.
  4. Refinishing small parts

    it would be easier to just direct you to my build thread. The following is a link to my post when I first acquired the setup. The powder coating stuff starts about 3/4 down the page.
  5. 240z RB26 Track Spec Build

    What lovely bones with a bunch of time consuming work already done for you. Nice. nylon wire wheels also do an amazing job at removing rust.
  6. Refinishing small parts

    You will not regret powder coating. Unless it is absolutely necessary, or the body of a car, I prefer to powder coat everything. Random brake line bracket? Powder coat. Strut top bolts? Powder coat. The only time you need to worry about powder coat is when high tolerances are needed, so avoid threads or interference fit parts (or at least those areas of said parts) With powder the finish is much more durable, and the turnaround time is amazing. You can pull a bracket, give it a quick sand blast or wire brush, shoot some powder on it and toss it in a small convection oven. Thirty minutes later, or when you can touch it, you can reinstall the same, now fresh, part. That just doesn't happen with paint. My powder coating setup, initially, was less than 200 dollars. (you do need access to compressed air, however) 125 - ish I think for the Eastwood Powder coating gun, and between 50-75 for the largest clearance counter top convection oven that I could find at Wal Mart. I acquired a conventional electric home oven later, for free, on Craigslist some time later. The convection oven still sees the most use, as mI am always powder coating small widgets for my projects.
  7. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    Without a cage, or monocoque design, quite frankly, I wouldn't. But if you want to go down the rabbit hole, you must include some sort of load bearing/dispersing core within the laminate. Most F1 racecars are constructed from a combination of aluminum, and nomex, honeycomb core. Aluminum is best used for crumple zones, and is highly structural, while nomex is designed for excellent fire resistance, but isn't as structurally robust. Nomex is significantly lighter, and subsequently more expensive, than aluminum, so it is used only where advantageous. So the survival cell (Monocoque) sees this type of core most often. I'd build a totally composite version, with aluminum honeycomb (3-5mm) core. Imagine if you were to take an s30 door and cut the inside skin off. I'd make that idea, and then build a semi structural door panel that goes over the inner workings of the door, because I also would want to retain window function and such. Horrible description, but eh I'll roll with it. I really dislike the idea of making some bastardized door hybrid out of 40+ year old existing shells and single skin, hand laid, laminates. That's not safe. Nor is it truly using these materials as intended. It's like if someone decided to build a carbon fiber house...and they start by making a bunch of carbon fiber 2x4s.....sure that will work, to some extent I suppose, but it isn't using the materials to their advantage. Unless the person really knows these materials (at an Aerospace / ISO 9001 level) you really shouldn't be making your own doors, in my opinion. Not the task for the average body guy. I feel this is an aesthetics game, hidden beneath a "weight savings" veil.
  8. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    If you have any questions in regards to carbon construction, and safety, don't hesitate to ask. I'll gladly share anything that I know.
  9. Rocky Auto Mirrors

    The rocky mirrors are not carbon fiber, if that's what you're looking for, those are clearly hydrodipped, or painted to look like 1x1 twill. If it's entirely the shape you're after, then disregard my entire post; Good luck with your search.
  10. 240z L28et Overheating

    You say the fan you are running currently is a push fan? If it's mounted on the backside of the radiator, as the picture shows, and is setup in a push orientation I would put my money on that being the problem. If it's on the back of the radiator like that, it wants to be a puller. Pullers, by design, are more efficient. If that is not the case, forgive my ignorance.
  11. Seiko SNK809 to SKX Mod

    I can dig it! Very cool. I am a big fan of watches. My vices are classic Tag Heuer dive watches..
  12. Industry Garage 240z

    ^^ Arguably, yes. But, those do not protect against the carbon shrapnel that would be entering the car. Lots of time a core, like nomex, is used in these cases to disperse load to prevent that from happening. A single skin laminate will shatter like glass. In my mind, there isn't much difference between what he is doing, and just not running doors at all. His only protection, really, is that cage. There is lots of room for things to get through. That carbon isn't going to stop much. Even with interior door panels. Perhaps I'm just overly cautious. Not trying to knock his build in any way. I kinda feel he is going for more "bling" than function on this one, that's all. He saved his weight by going with lexan/poly glass, and gutting the door regulator(s). He will honestly only save a couple pounds, per door, on each of these. And got rid of a wonderful material at dispersing load, and replaced it with a brittle, fragile, alternative. Yes, the door needs that stuff to have proper crumple zones. Soric, the core he was talking about there is specifically designed for infusion, the process I specialize in. Judging by the laminates I have seen thus far, none of them were infused. They appear to be hand laid (they seem dry).
  13. Industry Garage 240z

    Fun project! But....I can't help but feel those door skins are really dangerous. The lack of core, and zero structure will become a serious danger if there is ever a side impact. Making carbon doors is really no joke....and this is coming from a certified composites fabricator. "knows just enough to be dangerous" comes to mind. Saving weight at the cost of safety doesn't make sense to me. I hope to see some added protections in the future.
  14. Luna: The cause of, and solution to, all of my problems

    it's the one made by Xenon. Made of urethane. I'm going to be making a carbon splitter to mount underneath to prevent it from collapsing due to apparent wind at speed. Here's one on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-3124-Primered-Urethane-Front-Air-Dam-for-70-74-Nissan-240Z-2-4L-2-6L/401459167707?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D439ffbca5a3f46d3858c347b1c965dac%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D201603843396&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598
  15. 2261 pounds 73 240z Turbocharged L28 R200 Full carbon interior Wilwood disc brakes 8 gallons of fuel (ignore the corner balance stuff - these were the before settings) Will be adding a roll bar soon.