RTz

Congratulations! Very nicely done!

Once in a while

For what it's worth I used a 1" MC in my S-52 conversion. It was pretty stiff but worked. I *think* a 7/8" would be large enough to function (about 3/4 the fluid volume of a 1") and should be much more pleasant. Your conversion looks great, by the way!

TacticBurger, Do not post in an ad unless you are genuinely interested in buying. No negative comments will be tolerated. If you don't like something, walk away. And fix your location.

Prints... L6 DIS Coil Bracket.pdf

Car is sold. Thanks to everyone for the interest.

I'd love for Thomas to have it. Then soon after, we'd have to change his username

It's fairly low... #2003

Yep, the engine/transmission is out of my red car. The ECU is the same brand (Wolf) but new and never been fired up.

The owner of this car is my son-in-law. Sadly, he has developed serious medical complications and has asked me to help sell his 240. I’ll answer whatever questions I can, and if interested, I’ll arrange a meeting to see the car in person (in Beaverton Oregon). He has owned the car for approximately 15 years and it has always been garage kept in his ownership. I don’t know much of the prior history of the car, other than I picked it up for him in the Eugene area. I’ve driven the car a handful of times over the years and it always drove nicely. Previous owners installed ST lowering springs, sway bars, poly bushings, and I *think* Tokico non-adjustable struts. To my knowledge it is nearly rust free, with the only notable exception being a couple spots ahead of the right rear tire (see picture below). Here is a list of things that I’m aware of that it needs to be returned to road duty: Exhaust system (everything after the header) Mounts for the air intake Fuel return plumbing Battery & Fluids Intake manifold and fuel rail assembled Wiring the Wolf V4X Programmable EFI Additional info: 280ZX rear disc brake conversion, with Wilwood prop valve New brake and clutch master cylinders Aluminum flywheel and nearly new clutch Includes the original L24 with 4-speed trans Includes an L28 with EFI harness and computer. I think there may be an L28 Intake manifold, but haven’t found it yet. Spare front fenders Bosch 044 fuel pump with swirl pot Afco aluminum radiator RT Diff Mount I’d pick up this car in a heartbeat if I had the room for it, it’s a great car that is so close to being a blast to drive. He is asking $5500 or best offer. PM me directly if interested or feel free to ask questions and I’ll answer what I can.

Bought it by the gallon.

Never tried white vinegar, but when I was looking into it I wasn't finding anything that showed white vinegar to be any where near as effective as apple cider vinegar. I have never diluted it - always used at 'full strength'. Whatever you use it on will begin to surface rust almost immediately (minutes) after the treatment, so you should plan on some sort of inhibitor IMMEDIATELY after rinsing. When I did my tank I poured about a cup-full of WD40 into the tank, swirled around for a few minutes, and drained. That kept it clean until it was put into service.

That amount of rust wouldn't concern me. If you still want it gone in a more environmentally friendly way, soak it in apple cider vinegar. Here is a before/after of a VW trans mount that soaked for a few days and just rinsed off with water... I've used it on a fuel tank as well with great results. The caveat is that the item must be completely submerged in the vinegar because steal will rust when in contact with the vinegar VAPORS. So, you must fill the tank entirely. Or, in the case of the mount pictured above, it was completely submerged in a container.

The stock Subaru thermostat is 172 degrees and not fully open until somewhere around 195 (and they are also cold side control). It seems stock EJ22 Suby’s typically run at right around 190-205 degrees. I don’t generally start worrying about an engine until it breaks 250. I’d say “maybe”. I believe the radiator is big enough for stock horsepower, so it really becomes about getting enough airflow across it. Not any hotter. Stop and go traffic runs the fans, but maintains the temperature, much like a ‘normal’ car. Good luck with your Bay and keep us posted on your progress.

Not really anything to report. No cooling issues at all. I would guess if it was a fully loaded camper it may need more cooling capacity than what I've done.

Things can always be better. But the forum can’t be all things to all people. This forum was always intended to be a technical library, not a social event. Anything social was a byproduct. Yes, it has changed over the years. One of the biggest changes is that the moderators have stepped back considerably for the last few years and allowed the members to largely steer the ship. I can’t say it’s any better or worse for that, but it is more ‘yours’ now.

If I were to stick to my original radiator configuration I would want more fan(s) and or ducting air directly to it. A quick easy improvement would be to mount three more fans on the top side of the radiator just like the bottom side. Configure them as pushers. That should help get more air through the radiator and also give you some redundancy if one or two should fail. Possibly, but I'm not crazy about the extra maintenance. Just a personal preference. That's twice as much as they're worth

We’ve had a pretty good heatwave here in the Pacific North Wet. Hotter than usual for longer than usual. I haven’t been driving the Bus much. Either the air-conditioned car or the dual-sport has been the preferred commuter for the last few weeks. But my wife and I decided to do a small road trip up Mt. Hood with ambient in the 93 deg. range. That’s about as hot as it typically gets here on the west side of the Cascades. I figured this would be a good time to lean on the cooling system to see if it could handle the heat and the climb. So that’s what we did. We maintained 4000-4100rpm for the majority of the climb - we’ll just call that “highway speed” . Water temps hovered around 195-197deg. On the steepest climbs, passing people at 4500+rpm, brought the temps temporarily up to 200-203. This is the hottest I’ve seen the temps under any driving conditions with the new cooling configuration, and certainly acceptable.

I would surely hope so. We have more available information (especially collectively), more OEM availability, more aftermarket availability, more technology, more affordable fabrication tools, and so on. If hobbyists aren't exceeding what was done decades ago we aren't using our resources wisely... or worse.

No doubt by a bunch of kids. It's dumb. I also use a 4th gen. Civic as a winter beater - 3 seasons now. It's not nearly as nice as yours with almost 4 times the miles on the clock. It's does fine on the flats but it's not the best at climbing snow covered hilly roads. I've driven better RWD cars for that. I keep it shoe'd with snow's year round. i-Pikes the first couple of seasons. They sucked. Blizzaks this year have been much better.

What makes it JDM?

I machined a new thermostat neck and finished plumbing the radiator in. Filled it up and took it out for a drive. Spent about a half hour driving it in anger on our twisty hilly roads. The highest temp I saw was 183, with no fans running. Spent about an hour at freeway speed and the temps stayed between 180 & 185, with no fans running. The caveat is that it was around 50 deg. ambient. I’ll have to wait until summer to see how much fan I’ll need, if any. But, on an average Oregon day, it’s doing great.

Thanks Joel. I see some of the pictures were lost with the server meltdown as well. Re-posting Porsche replica wheels and double-din head unit...

We’ve lost a few posts from the server crash, but I think I had left things with “I have a plan”. Well after 11 weeks of waiting, my ‘plan’ finally arrived. I ordered a second radiator from Ron Davis. Its 24” x 6” x 3”. I’ve mounted it vertically between the frame rails and I’ll plumb it in series with the first radiator. Using two radiators in this fashion is admittedly unconventional, but I think this will be a fair compromise between maintenance and functionality. As I mentioned I have been avoiding belly mounting (due mostly to maintenance), but doing it this way allows me to clean it easily since the downwind side is conveniently exposed (flushing reverse of airflow) and there are no fans in the way. I should be able to do the job without jacking up the Bus or disassembling anything. Ground clearance is 5 ½” – an inch higher than the oil pan. I still need to build an inlet screen and finish the plumbing, but here it is as of today… Hopefully this will allow me to run the same water temps as before with less dependance on the fans.