Jump to content
HybridZ

Siberian Husky

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Siberian Husky

  1. Located in Southern California, but will travel anywhere in CA for it. Budget of around 20-30 depending on condition of vehicle. Please know that I am not looking to complete any projects at all. A full interior with a sound system is a must. The car doesn't need crazy large brake upgrades or amazing suspension. I am looking more for a cruising Z with some power than a track rat. Thank You
  2. I contacted him already. He says its in worse shape than what the pictures lead on. I'd prefer a straight piece.
  3. Do you have pictures, can you send them to my cell (you have PM). I'll actually be in the City today, gonna go to the Academy of Sciences to see whats up.
  4. I prefer steel, not fiberglass, but thanks for the offer. Zentech: What is the difference between the 75 240z vs the earlier iterations? What would need to be done to make it work? As i understand it, the end pieces attach to the headlight buckets and the middle piece I'd have to maybe fab a bracket or something? Pics? Note: This is going on a 280z, but I already have 240z turn signals.
  5. Looking for a straight 240z front valence assembly. Must be straight with all mounting tabs intact. Color doesn't matter, surface rust doesnt matter. Need by end of this week (I ship out).
  6. As title states. Need the glass with the frame (metal piece that attaches to the tracks).
  7. This build thread is truly an inspiration. I am very sorry in advance, but I am totally going to bite those blacked out inner buckets. love the contrast!
  8. I need a 77-78. Sorry. I didn't know they were different.
  9. i was told not to use 240z struts on a 280z. a shop told me that they were more likely to blow due to difference in weight. also, can i just use mr2 all around or would that drop me too low?
  10. I want to do some coilovers on my 280z. I swapped everything over from my 240z so im running 240z suspension. I want to go with ground control and am assuming I have to buy the 240z kit because of the tube diameter, but I was wondering if the spring rate wouldn't suffice on that 240z kit, I think the 280z kit comes with higher rated springs due to weight difference. I also am not sure about what strut cartridge to use, I understand that the MR2 inserts allow for a shorter stroke allowing me to achieve a ride height like this (http://www.stancenation.com/forums/showthread.php?4194-73-240z) without compromising quality or allowing for bottoming. I'm not sure if I'm going to end up with a reverse rake, however, because of the longer strut tunnel on the 280z body. I'm farming out the labor, but it is up to me to get the right parts so I was wondering if one of you guys could point me in the right direction. I have read the FAQs on the coilover's but they don't really speak to my unique situation. Thanks
  11. It is the last thing my car needs, but unfortunately I am all tapped out financially. I have called several exhaust shops and have received quotes in the ballpark of 400-600 dollars for a custom set up. I wouldn't mind running side pipes if it were cheaper either. Would it be cheaper just to purchase a custom exhaust kit and tack weld it together and have it sent out to be welded completely? I guess what I am asking is, based on everyone's experience, what is the most affordable/easiest way to run the exhaust on these cars with this set up?
  12. Should I also remove the distributor ground from the battery post and use a body/motor ground?
  13. just swapped everything into a new shell. wiring everything using painless; i got the motor to crank. I have a procomp distributor im using, theres a plug with three wires coming out the side of it. a black, a red, and an orange. the diagram says to run the red to the (+) coil (using an msd blaster 3), the orange to the (-) coil, and black to ground (ive connected this to the battery (-). I have ignition hot wire intervated at the red wire to the (+) coil. Coil gets hot with ignition on, but i'm not getting any spark. Im not sure which procomp distributor I have, but it does not have a timing vaccuum advance. I also have a ground wire from the coil to the (-) battery, grounding the coil. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong. I initially had a procomp amp ignition box but have ditched that in order to simplify my ignition problem; just want to run distributor and coil for now. ANY help would be awesome, I'm stuck and its delaying the starting of my long project.
  14. my master is a 5/8. do i NEED a 7/8? im broke and just trying to get this thing going
  15. Quick question, just so I understand what I am doing. How should the SC look at rest; without pedal depression--should the rod be fully retracted applying pressure to the plate? Im asking because I want to understand what to look for once I have successfully completed this. As I see it now, the at-rest position of the SC in relation to the plate is full extension putting pressure on the plate.
  16. I am having a hard time building pressure for the clutch system. Im using a 5/8 MC, not sure on the brand and using the stock *plastic* SC that comes on the f-body t5. The larger port was drilled and tapped to take standard pipe per JTR and the other port is closed off with an allen accessible plug. When i manually pump the MC (off the firewall) with my hand it seems to build a tiny bit of pressure but it soon gets lost. My connections are good, i find no leaks--from what I have investigated. Im tempted to ditch this set up entirely for something more practical. Something about the plastic SC turns me off. I know there is a good write up on using a wilwood SC with a 7/8 borem, jegs has it for 75; it looks like an involved job- i'd rather not tear off the bellhousing as the entire powertrain was just mounted in. As much as I attempt to bleed, I get very little pressure and ZERO translation between pedal and actual SC pin movement. Im running a SS line with a tapped fitting for standard pipe into the SC. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for my lack of knowledge, I'm still learning.
  17. There was a molded spoiler that was startin to go bad underneath. I stripped it off and found some rust. Wire wheeled my way to this. How bad is this pitting rust and what is the best way to remedy it?
  18. I NEED A SHELLLLLLLLLLLLLLL. I'll take anything 75 and under. just be rust free (use this term loosely of course as there is no such thing as a rust free Z)
  19. I just tore down my interior, including the removal of the dash in order to redo things the way I imagined. I'm aiming for a minimalistic spartan-like interior involving a possible fabrication of a dash and all new gauges. To my dismay and disappointment it was truly a rats-nest wiring mess underneath the dash; the previous owner(s) took a few stabs at redoing a few things that were included with the JTR swap of a carbed SBC 355. HERES MY QUESTION: I've been tirelessly reading all that I can about these EZ/Painless re-wire kits they have available. Wipers, Gauges, Coil, Headlight, Fan, Turn Signal, Radio, Brake, AC/Heat, Choke, Horn, and Hazard--this is pretty much all I want. In order to make my life easier I was wondering if it were possible to toss out the stock steering tree switches (lights, turns, wipers, ignition) for a GM product. This way I can get the EZ wire kit coded for GM and everything is more plug-and-play friendly rather than the cumbersome analysis of the wiring diagrams. I'm sure I could come up with some kind of steering tree cover; perhaps retrofit something off the donor GM vehicle. Am I dreaming? Or is this a feasible route?
  20. can i come over and check your Z out? im jealous as f*** that you can weld and have the balls to take on this car despite everyones opinion on it. GOOD ****!
×
×
  • Create New...