kcelectronics

Is this the color?

Hi Julius, looks sweet, what color are you going to use? The present color looks good.

The trans is actualy a 4n71b and the overdrive is fitted to the front of the trans between the bell housing and the "main" trans case! The 4n71b showing the added O/Drive section This is the 3n71b The big HP RB30's use the 3n71b and do a good job, the "4 speed" 4n71b is good for street use, where good fuel mileage is required. as the O/Drive is 0.686 or over 30% rpm reduction if I remember correctly Check out KEAS Trans here http://www.keas.com.au/ And the 71 series Jatco transmissions look more like a BW35 in my opinion.

I am not trying to be smart but was this a Question? or just a statement? Do you have any dash lights gauge movement? etc have you checked the fusible links under the hood? A bit more detail would help with a diagnosis.

SWEET!!!! Love the color Nice work

Hi All I have just edited the Oil-Pan page, I corrected some spelling mistakes and tried to clarify it a bit better?

After to long I have started to regain interest in the rebuild of the Z, so I have decided to do as much work as possible, prior to pulling out the tired 280 EFI so that I don't fall into the same trap I did last time. Mod to Oil-pan Just follow the link Email or PM if you need any additional info?

I measured the rear of my 2+2 and there is at least 10.5 inches between the lower spring mount and inside the lip (not rolled)? and as a 245 is 9.6" then with the right rim they should fit? I have just bought a set of 16x8 +4 Performance SuperLites They are currently fitted with 205x50x16 which are way to small!! in both width and height, so I plan to fit 2 new 225x50x16 and see how they fit the rear and if they are still to small I will put these on the front and fit 245x25x16 on the rear. The overall width of the 8" rim is 9" wide which is about 230mm and as you can see from this picture the outside if the rim is still inside the stock fender lip? The rear is lowered about 1.5" and thefront about 3/4" So I figure that if I roll the lip up, the 245's should fit no problem? Here is the front pictures:- There ia a gap of about 1/2" at the spoiler. This one is NOT directly overhead the rim is actually under the fender (just) I will let you know how they fit.

I have 16x8 +4 with 225x50x16 with stock spring perches without ZG flares.

Hi I was reasonably sure that the "flatter" spokes were the RB series, but as I had only seen these pictures on their website I just posted what I found? I was going to buy the RB wheels but I got a deal on some 16x8 Superlites.

HI Careless, yes the higher flow low pressure "lift" pump would have worked, in fact the car that the RB30 comes from the GM Holden VL Commodore has a lift pump in the tank (which has a "baffle/Swirl pot") to feed the external pressure pump, I have one of these pumps and intended to use it, but as it was an in-tank type I might as well fit an in-tank H/P pump. (the reasons I didn't go this route are outlined above) Also the reason that the donor car has this arrangement is that it was designed for carburetters with engine mounted fuel pump, so when the Nissan EFI engine was fitted the the same fuel tank was used with the Low/High pressure set up. Another reason i didn't go this route was because if the in-tank lift pump fails, the obvious happens, No fuel = No Go, and as I believe in the K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid) principle I wanted to eliminate the "Extra Pump". I will describe the tank mod I now use ASAP (I need to locate the few pictures I saved on my crowded PC)

HI Why do you want to install in the tank? is it because you already have an in-tank pump assembly? I have just gone through the whole process of EFIpump/fuel tank issue, I had an internal and an external pump on hand, and this is my story. History I have had an EFI 2.8 fitted for 10 years and was running a "4lt Swirl Pot" bolted to the side of the original fuel pump bracket, this had 4 fittings, 1 was supplied by a low pressure pump (like the std fuel pump), this keeps the "pot full at all times, the 2nd fitting at the top allowed the fuel pump to fill the pot and allow the extra fuel back into the tank, there is a good reason to do this, as continually pumping fresh fuel into the "Pot" it helps to "cool" the fuel in the" swirl pot" (I will explain later why I had changed this set up), and don't worry about the "flow rate" of the low pressure pump, it only has to replace the fuel used by the engine, so capacity is really not so important for a "Street Car", this is because there is more than enough fuel in the Swirl Pot for full a throttle run, after which the swirl pot has time to be refilled again. The other 2 fittings supply the High Pressure (35-60psi) EFI pump from a fitting on the bottom of the pot, the other is the return from the engine bay. So to put it simply, the low pressure fills the swirl pot, and the high pressure runs the engine simple. I will now explain why I changed this old set-up? as it has worked very well but with 1 major problem!! HEAT pure and simple, 99.5% of the time this system was perfect, it was easy to set up and maintain, but on very hot days out on the highway the heat in the engine bay would heat the fuel being returned to the swirl pot, so after 20~30 minutes the fuel was so hot it would vaporise, guess what NO liquid fuel =NO GO? and the small amount of fresh fuel added from from the tank would not help. I did try to fix this set up by returning the "Hot" fuel back to the main tank, but the low pressure pump couldn't keep up with the EFI Pump. This leads me to the latest set up! I thought about what was needed and it isn't rocket science, all that is required is a constant supply of high pressure fuel Simple. The problems we face with our older Z's is the tank design, there isn't a Baffle or "swirl pot' inside our tanks, (unless you fit a 280z tank?) but over here in Australia and I think in the UK we didn't get the EFI in the early Z's so this option is out. So to fix the problem we have 2 choices (yes I finally go to the answer to the question) Internal or external pump? Both are going to be time consuming and possibly very dangerous!!!! (See Bottom of Page) 1. Internal pump, requires the tank to be opened up to allow the fitting of a baffle/swirl pot, this keeps the fuel around the pickup for the pump so there are no interruptions to the fuel delivery (EFI motors don't like interrupted fuel supply's), caused by the fuel sloshing around when Accelerating braking or going around corners! (especially with low fuel in the tank) this can be minimized by keeping the tank more 1/3 full, but as the tank would need to be opened up to fit the pump anyway, why not as Mike Holmes says, "Do It Once and Do It Right"? once the baffle/swirl pot is in place, then fit the internal pump assembly I was intending to remove the part of the donor tank and welding it into place (Warning see below) the pump I was going to use had the fuel gauge sender as part of the assembly, and I was intending to fit it where the original one was located. This was getting a bit complicated SO. 2. External Pump Pull tank cut hole in bottom, fit sump (literally as it turns out) run fitting for fuel to EFI Pump and refit!! So after much thought I went for the external pump. Warning welding fuel tanks can be very dangerous Period!!!!:nono: i am not going to tell you how to do this!! It is up to you to decide if you are capable OK. All I will say is I did it by washing out the tank several times with soapy water, leaving out in the hot sun for a few days, than running a flexible pipe from my exhaust (the car's not mine! LOL) this fill's the tank with Carbon monoxide? which should remove any explosive gas (again petrol not mine LOL) that may be present. I Accept No Responsibility For any situations you may get yourself into!!! If you want the story of the tank mod's for the external pump just ask OK

HI Jon, Thanks for the question, I have downloaded the Wheel info for the Diamond Racing Wheels and it will be added to the list ASAP

I have just uploaded Rev. 1b added OEM wheels + other aftermarket Wheels, feel free to send any updates

Here is a list of Wheel Weights that I have massaged into an XL spread sheet, If you find any mistakes or have more info please email me and I will up-date/add them Ok kcelectronics@optusnet.com.au http://ga-server02.globalarray.net/user/kcelectronics/ZCARS/WheelWeight.xls

This the ROTA RB-R This is the ROTA RB Here they are side by side? I dont like the RB-R I prefer the straighter spokes (just my 2cents worth)

No Thats the side that all E-Brakes are.

I tripped over this on Ebay UK I don't know if this is a repost? if so then Please Nuke this Thread http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300188003462&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:uk Listed with Power Windows?????? But the crank handles can be seen in the interior picture??? Also has "Electronic Stability Program (ESP), Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)"????? BUT Check out the price!!!!!!! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * UK£34,999.00 = US$68,646.99!!!!!!!!!!

Hi It would be easier for me Via USPS if you wouldn't mind? Here id my Email Address if it is easier to communicate:- kcelectronics@optusnet.com.au :burnout:

HI its me again, Could you please ship via USPS? as I live out in the country and most couriers don't come out here, I have a Po Box in town which I check twice a week, I have had lots of things shipped using the postal service from the USA (usually parts on Ebay) and it is a lot easier for all concerned. You could just put them into an envelope as they are quite small, what do you think? Merry Christmas and Thanks for all your help By for now Colin

Hi Again, I just need 1 set of 4 (2 for each caliper) I am upgrading my 260z to the ventilated s130 set up and I have everything except those parts. Thanks Colin

HI Thanks for the reply, I am after 4 of these, they are from the front calipers, New or Used would be Great if you can help??:):)

Take a look at Terry Oxandales great article here http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/BrakeUpdate.html And this article http://240z.jeromio.com/brakes.html

Hi all, I have been looking for a 280zx front caliper Hardware kit. They are readily available in the good old US of A! but all of the online Auto Parts stores won't ship Over Seas to Australia (there is one www.rockauto.com but they want US$3.59 for the kit and US$28.00 to ship them!!!) They would fit in an envelope for postage? is there any one over there in the US could buy a set and send them to me? (I will pay for them with postage of course) Here is a part No for the reybestos Kit:- RAYBESTOS Part # H15602F { HARDWARE KIT} OR is there any one in Australia that has a set or knows where I can get some?????

I have been running the 280zx pump with the subaru rack for about 10 years on my daily driver! and it works great even at idle?