kcelectronics
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Posts posted by kcelectronics
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Welcome back, hope to see more updates as I thought that this was a very interesting project.
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Welcome back its been along time, looks like it has had alot of work done, will it be painted when you pick it up?
how much more do you need to do before you can drive her?
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looking good, is that the color you are going with?
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this build is very inspiring, I need to get out in the garage and do something to my Z, your attention to detail is amazing, keep up the great work.
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"Ever met a sober surfboard shaper? Polyester resin ain't too good for the gray matter."
Ha Ha nearly spat out my teeth, but its so true, I know a few guys that fit that category, nice guys that promise the world but have a hard time living up to them, I think its the type of person who wants to do the right thing but gets into trouble delivering "On time" due to poor time keeping etc. (I can be accused of this from time to time).
Keep up posted we do need the eccentric, lets face it we are hardly a "Main Stream" high volume big spending bunch, and who else would do it.
So I hope he is legitimate and comes through with the product.
That's my rant for the day (year) hope you all have a good one. Cheers
EvilChuckie :flamedevi :flamedevi
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Wow, I bet that felt good, do you have much more before your first drive?
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Welcome Nice to see another 2+2 they seem to be gaining some respect and can be more practical if you have a family or need a little extra space, I happen to prefer the 2+2. I think the extra length suits the shape and I always thought the 2 seater looked just a bit short? (please don't bother to try to convince me otherwise) and yes I do own a 2+2 with RB30 turbo power steering power windows ZG flairs etc.etc which I have owned for over 30yrs and is currently being restored for the 2nd time.
Check out Toni L's build http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70681-260z-22-1974-project/
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You are an inspiration to us all. great work, I have been following this build from the start. How long till you get to drive the beast?
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"Not sure if it only had a cover on one side or if I'm missing one"
your not missing one as they only fitted them to the drivers side, I believe it was to keep rain from that side of the engine where the ignition/carbies are?
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love the rear treatment, I do understand that some like to keep things original but where's the fun in that? and there are plenty of standard Zed's out there for them, and the moulded flairs and front guard scollops etc add to overall effect to give a modern influence to this beautiful car well done, this is gong to be one hell of a nice looking "Z" cant wait to see it finished.
Cheers Evil
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WOW your back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have been looking high and low for you lol, Hope everything is good with you. I have missed you so much that I had to go into my own garage and start working on my project to get a Z fix, I guess you know that you have been an inspiration to so many of us here on HybridZ and indeed the rest of the world,.I know how time can get away from you doing these types of projects and its tough to keep up the momentum and enthusiasm with such a big project (wondering will it ever end?)
Cheers Evilchuckie
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I'm envious about the headlight covers, What is all the steel to be used for?
Cheers Colin
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Great work well done, I have been looking for white gauges for my rebuild, but I live in Australia and we use kilometers so how hard would it be to make a K/M Speedometer for other countries? can I modify yours or make a completely new one? any help would be appreciated.
Cheers Colin
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good luck in the 24hrs and well done on the Z rebuild, I have been following your build for years.
Colin
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cant wait to see more pics
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Hmmmm looks interesting, well done with the find, do you have any measurements of these units?
Keep us posted.
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Nice to see you are trying to turn this around, there is no doubt fiberglass can be a pain to get right out of the mold and each and every early Z car can be slightly different, so having a ready to fit part will be a challenge, and I don't expect a perfect fit under these circumstances ,Like most Early Z owners I have a critical eye for detail, I have bought several fiberglass parts over the years from many manufacturers and most needed a fair bit of "finishing" or tweaking to make them look/fit well and look.good.
I have followed a few threads on HybridZ regarding your issues and you seem to be trying to resolve any issues with your parts and It seems that you really want to fix the the problems and sell a good product.
I have held off on my order till you get things under control and I for one hope you will be around servicing the "Z" community with good products.into the future.
Cheers Colin from DownUnder:rolleyes:
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I was looking into buying an aluminimum radiator when I found this information, don't know if this has been posted before?
The Basics
The boiling point of water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit at sea level. The higher you are above sea level, the lower the boiling point of water, and the sooner water will boil.
Engine cooling systems are pressurized to raise the boiling point of water. For every pound of pressure in the cooling system, the boiling point of the water will raise 3 degrees.
Atmospheric pressure along with outside temperature and humidity also affect the boiling point of water. Water boils when the atmospheric pressure and vapour pressure become equal.
Radiator Construction
The heat transfer ability of metals (the ability of the metal to transfer heat through itself) helps to determine the efficiency of a radiator. On a scale of one to 100, silver is highest in efficiency with a rating in the upper 90's. Copper is also in the upper 90's. Brass (which is an alloy) has a rating in the upper 40's as does aluminium. Lead which is often used to bond brass and copper together has rating in the 20's.
When comparing copper radiators to aluminium radiators, remember that copper transfers heat through itself better than aluminium, so copper is better at moving the heat away from the tubes inside of the radiator. Radiators that are made of copper and brass are generally more efficient than the same size aluminium radiator.
Aluminium radiators are better at transferring heat out of the liquid coolant. Comparing the two types of radiators with the same dimensions; aluminium radiators have the advantage of being physically lighter in weight. With increased airflow an aluminium radiator can be made to be as efficient as a copper radiator. Keep in mind...you must have the airflow to make aluminium radiators work!
There must always be a drop in air pressure between the front side of the radiator and the engine side of the radiator. It is this pressure drop that helps draw the ar through the radiator. High pressure on the engine side of the radiator can greatly reduce... even stop completely, the flow of air through the radiator.
Summary
Plain water is the best dispersant of heat there is. Water is also one of the most destructive liquids you can put into the cooling system. Most all of the problems associated with cooling systems (corrosion, electrolysis, rust, etc.) are related to water.
Corrosion reduces the efficiency of the cooling system by reducing the volume of coolant within the system and by restricting the flow of the coolant itself. Antifreeze is added to the cooling system to prevent the freezing of the water in winter and carries the additives necessary to correct the pH of the water which helps to prevent corrosion and electrolysis. The antifreeze itself provides no cooling benefit.
The faster you drive, the more air that flows thorough a radiator is Not true. No matter how fast you drive, the pressure against the front of the radiator is equal to about 40 percent of vehicle speed.
What happens to airflow after it gets through the radiator is just as important as the amount of air that flows through the radiator in the first place!
In most all applications...a thinner radiator works best and will cool better than a thick core radiator because of the increased airflow available through the thin radiator.
Might hold on to the radiator I have now and save some bucks LOL
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Its a 1974 Austrailian import,
f54 block
p90a head shaved 2mm
stage 4 cam
triple dellorto's
msa 6-1 header
lowered on eibach springs
zg flares
all chrome painted black
shaved rear end
17" image wheels
thats about it really, just finished it yesterday, managed to get 15 miles on the engine before the rain came!!
What is the width of your wheels and the offset/backspace?
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Just finished work on my 2+2, has its first drive yesterday.
Thas a Sweet Ride you have there, tell us more?
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More importantly why are you considering this?
Not really considering it Just a Thought.
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I was having a rare thought and I was wondering if any one has Welded on the Rear Caliper Brackets? Not welding the "Bolt on" brackets but cutting a fitted bracket to suit the strut and welding it on?
The only thing I can think of is the possible distortion of the bearing alignment?
All answers positive or negative welcome
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How about these?
EvilChuckie 
:flamedevi 
Top chop update
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Simply Amazing, I have been watching your build from the beginning.
It looks so well proportioned well done.