Jump to content
HybridZ

Twizted

Members
  • Posts

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Twizted

  • Birthday 05/14/1976

Twizted's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

10

Reputation

  1. I'm going thru the same issue with mine. It had also sat for 2 years. My injectors were also sticking along with the fuel pump and had a clogged fuel filter. I occasionally have to jump start the fuel pump with a booster box to get it to "wake up" for a testing session then it'll work fine the rest of the day. Fuel filter was really restrictive so that was changed. The injectors were also not working so I jump started them as well. I just used my booster box with a paper clip (I know it's not the safest) and supplied power till they were all clicking and working again. It now runs but very low pressure. I'm checking the tank and possibly the regulator.
  2. That happened to a friend of mine once. He had dropped a small screw into the head when he was changing the valve cover gasket. It bounced around between different cylinders before being discharge out the exhaust. We didn't think that was the cause until we couldn't find that one screw, then it dawned on us. We did find the screw later in the muffler. Just a thought.
  3. Turbo or NA? What year ECU are you using? My '82 Turbo says 8* on my hood sticker. But I know that it does vary depending on certain variables.
  4. There was a recall on Maxima's for coils and reprogram the ECM. I believe your year may have been part of it. Although you mention you did that already. The TPS is a good idea, I've had symptoms like yours on my Z and changing that seemed to work. Have you been able to locate the Factory TSB's online?
  5. Afew years ago at my local dragstrip I seen a 280z powered by a L(31)ET using SDS. It was a daily driver complete with his briefcase and rather large speaker box. He ran 12's and he seemed like that was the norm and never worried about electronic issues. I'll be going with Megasquirt or SDS when I'm ready to upgrade.
  6. One problem with high-flow radiators and removing the T-Stat is TOO much flow. The watermix will not be in the radiator long enough to cool so then you send the hot water back into the engine to be super-heated. Increased flow is good and does help but just remember that there is a point where it becuase less effective and then harmful.
  7. I think he was refering to the "idiot" lights.
  8. I would get away from stock wiring. There have been numerous situations resolved by direct wiring and puting in your own relay. I know that mechanics (especially Nissan ones) try to go back to factory whenever they have no freakin clue. Their logic, well if it worked once it'll work again... The factory pump is a decent unit tho, just not a very good choice when your going to be doing upgrades. How are your injectors? And what PSI are you running both before warmup and after? Good luck
  9. I had put mine before the turbo with a nozzle pointed in that direction. It seemed to help the turbo stayed spooled. Although I have gone thru turbos every other oil change so it may not be the most reliable. But I'm sure that that wasn't caused my turbo failures. 30+ boost is what I feel the culprit was.
  10. Try using any older Nissan key, Lol. 5 out of my 8 Z's I've had could be started that way. Your ignition switch will work and as far as testing the compression, just cross the starter and have it turn over that way. Hot wiring isn't hard if it comes to that.
  11. With the re-introduction of the litlle sportsters (Miata, Solstace, etc) I think it'd only be logical to bring out the original concept that made the Z famous. A light weight, sexy, great handling, 2-seater, dedicated sports car is just what we need to enter the market again.
  12. WOW, Sounds like a nice shop. Electrically speaking. If 60 amps will be enough for you then yes, #3 will be more than plenty. But Grumpy is very correct in what he said. Both wire and conduit have quadrupled in price and it hasn't stopped yet.
×
×
  • Create New...